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Troy Smith

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  1. If they go down the Eduard route, which is a common parts tree, (tailplanes, rudder, cockpit, wheel wells, UC parts, ailerons, ) plus specific new parts trees, which would be 1, a Mk.II fuselage, radiators, props, exhausts, tailwheels, 2 , a IIC wing, the obvious thing is to a B wing, as you just need a new wing tree. That covers an awful lot of Hurricanes, and a IIC is close enough to be a fairly easy conversion to a IID/IV, they could do that with a new wing tree and associated parts, careful planning of the Mk.II fuselage (as per the Hase kit with open nose ring) allows alternate parts to do Canadian specific and Sea Hurricanes, if they go for a separate belly panel. That is maximum use of common parts tree and Mk.II fuselage tree, with 2 or 3 wing trees, it's pretty easy to backdate a B wing to an A wing, But to do a Mk.I, it also depends on what Mk.I, as the Mk.I is complex, far more complex than is usually appreciated, as there are a mass of changes, 3 windscreens, two fuselages, early/mid-late) , two wings, fabric/metal, 6 types of propeller/spinner, 4 and 5 spoke wheels, as well as very early with no strake, different rudder..... Even just taking the easy route, and doing what Airfix did, a mid to late Mk.I, which is the one flown by 303 Sq, that's a new fuselage tree with various props, and new wings. And there is the Airfix Mk.I kit already, which is likely 'good enough' for most modellers..... Though it does have a few faults that are a right pain to correct, and are noticeable, so there is room for the definitive Mk.I kit, Given Arma have already done a very good job in their 72nd Hurricanes, I'm not really sure what Eduard are up to? The Arma kit will be available before theirs, and what will an Eduard kit offer over the Arma? Unless Arma just won't bother with the Mk.I and leave that to Eduard, which is the sort of thing they do well, looking at their early Spitfire kits.....
  2. I would concur, I have the AK interactive Dark Green, and a sample of the Hataka, and both are too dark. Vallejo make many paint shades, they just don't seem very good at matching them up with what they are supposed to represent! Ocean Grey when fresh has subtle greeny-blue hue to it. The AK wasn't good.... and with Vallejo, they likely do but call it something else, I note here https://ak-interactive.com/product/wwii-us-navy-usmc-aircraft-colors/ "AK11341 Intermediate Blue (Ocean Gray FS 35164)" FWIW, this to me shows the colours well of fresh Dark Green and Ocean Grey Test Pilot c1944. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr In particular at the left of the photo. Bear in mind that the P-40 would be in US Dupont colors, which are not quite the same as the MAP colours, which are seen here. Spitfire in England by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr These are factory fresh in Dupont paint AFAIK, note the green tends to be a bit more piney green than olive, and the Dark Earth a bit sandier eg Bell Airacobra 1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr Douglas Boston, c1941. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr Douglas Boston. 1942. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr If it's not too red or too dark muddy grey, or like light brown cat sick... then I'd say that was good going, as these seem to the common problems with Dark Earth..... Sorry.... I've been getting rather annoyed with acrylic model paint that is not even in ball park of the RAF museum book MAP chips.... Anyway, if you are are happy with how they look on the model that's alll that matters and my trip down the psychedelic rabbit hole of colours is my problem!!!!! (is that grey with slight blue or slight purple hue.... nurse, meds now please)
  3. Also, seems Tamiya did a figure set for a Mosquito/light Utilty car boxing but not in the Tilly only kit, Some might have these, or know if they were added into another Tamiya kit. One point, Tamiya figures are often on the small side for 1/48, but are well sculpted.
  4. maybe in resin or white metal, the Tamiya Lanc has a figure in smart uniform, but with a side cap, but maybe modifiable. The other with a full sheepskin flight suit would maybe good for a Swordfish pilot?
  5. Scalemates is often a good starting point for availability and economy, these also got reboxed by Revell, and ended up being bundled into some ICM Spitfire boxings These era maybe harder to get They are junk to many builders, but hopefully some of the packrats spares box them. Not many standing pilots, though Tamiya did a few The Tamiya Lanc has 5, the Bufflao had a good standing pilot in tropical dress. If I'm honest, I probably won't use all the ones I have so I'll see what I can find. HTH
  6. Do you mean seated? some kits, especially older kits, had pilot figures, old (late 70's era) Airfix did, and they are often quite neatly sculpted. (based on the ones from their 1/24th kits) Some of the newer kits have them as well, eg the new tool Airfix Spitfire Vb/Mk.I kit https://www.hyperscale.com/2014/reviews/kits/airfix05125reviewbg_1.htm Most of these never get used, so may well be worth asking in the wanted section for leftover figures, while as other have said, there are pilot figures, they are often for diorama use, and you want seated crew, which are what you tend to get in kits that have them. HTH https://www.hyperscale.com/2015/reviews/kits/airfix05127reviewbg_1.htm the new tool Hurricane has one as well ONe that would be worth asking for for a Swordfish would be the Airfix Mosquito navigator, Not very clear, but the one of the right has his head turned, and a map on his lap, memory tells me well sculpted....but it's a been a while since I had a good look! The Tamiya Lancaster has crew in flight suits, which might be more appropriate for pre-war/early war.
  7. this one? Not just the uppers, but overall colour. much discussed Japanese grey. It's an olive grey. By this, it can have a both a greenish and brownish tint depending on illumination. Tamiya make XF-76 for their Zero kit,, this is rated as being a good match for a lightly weathered airframe. Humbrol H168 Hemp is also rated. I personally now wouldn't trust Vallejo (or other Spanish paint companies) ability to match paint colours with "both hands and a map" , though given Vallejo's large range of colours, they probably have a reasonable match in the range, but it's finding it! OK, this came up recently, and I posted this Plenty of discussion on the whole subject in the linked thread which maybe of use. Note the link to aviation of Japan on Zero colours http://www.aviationofjapan.com/search?q=zero+grey Since you have got as far as asking about it, well worth the time to read to get an idea of the debate and history of the colour. And you have a couple of paints to go on. One word of caution, you may find online 'paint converters' between brands, can be helpful but also confusing. What do Eduard call in in their instructions BTW? They usually quote Gunze ? HTH
  8. Worth bearing in mind that for paint thinning, it's worth getting the proper thinners, or high grade artists thinners, as white spirit is pretty greasy gunk really, fine for cleaning up, but can cause paint to dry slowly. While proper thinners are expensive, you will only be using a little. It won't with brushed paint, pre shading relies on thin airbrush coats really. When it come to techniques like these. while they are very commonly used, it's worth thinking about what you are trying to achieve. You may find dry brushing or washes may work. Sort of thing you need to practice, if you have any discarded or damaged toys from your son, these can be used as testers for this if you don't have any paint mules to play with. I got some built tanks from a jumble sale I use for armour practice and have a some junk aircraft for aircraft. Bear in mind that like weathering, a little can go a long way. You may find an overall gloss coast will work better, as it gives an even finish. you can also bed decals in kleer type varnishes And if the decals have a two marking options, worth trying out a spare to see how they behave, as not all decals are the same. I use fairly hot water, and this softens them up and makes them conform better. Anyway, making good progress HTH
  9. Can't answer your initial question, but ages ago this was posted, which maybe of interest if you are interested in car models finish.
  10. From memory, this is what I have stashed, Purple Series - Aircraft kits PK-001 : Hawker Fury I (1972 / 1973) - JosephLalor PK-006 : Focke-Wulf Fw 190A (1972 / 1973) PK-020 : Dassault Mirage IIIC (1973 / 1974) PK-029 : Douglas A-4M Skyhawk (1975 / 1978) PK-049 : Hawker Hurricane Mk. IIC/Mk.IID (1989) Purple Series - Military kits PK-84 : M3/A1 Stuart "Honey" (1978) - the Revell rebox with Scottish Infantry, though the tracks have become hard and brittle. Orange Series - Military kits PK-174 : M19 45 Ton tank transporter (1979) - Jb65rams PK-175 : Monty's Caravan and Daimler MKII Scout car (1980) PK-176 : CHAR B1 bis and Renault FT17 (1983) - Marklo PK-177 : Churchill A.V.R.E. Bridgelayer (1983) 1/32 PK-6006 : British Commandos (1982) I really enjoyed the Morris C.8/17 Pdr set I did, and did pick up a few others from the Orange Military kits... So Monty's Caravan is quite tempting, as other are doing some of the others from series, put me down for that. The Skyhawk I've had since, erm, 1978..... I'm not sure even why I bought it? Possibly because I liked the box art and it was the only thing I liked in the newsagent up the street..... Wonder if the decals will work? I now have a FS595 deck so can match/mix the Israeli colours if they do. cheers T
  11. great work, but one point, British types from late 30's on, there were very strict rules on the painting of control surfaces, due to balance, IIRC due to accidents in the 1930's with Hawker Fury's from 43Sq with chequers painted on the elevators, continual touch ups fro neatness unbalanced them. Anyway with a very very few exceptions*, no non camo paint on control surfaces. There are also rules on position, upperwing are 1/3 of span in from wing tip, each side taking the 2/3 as from centreline, and usually a 2 inch gap between leading and trailing edge/control surface, one reason Lysansders have small upperwing roundels. Hopefully of use for any future RAF builds even if too late now. *The only ones I can think of occasional SEAC stripes, due confusion in the orders, and some Hurricane units in the 39/40 in France with stripes rudders, which would have been rebalanced. Also for decal silvering, well worth trying the 'bedding in kleer' technique, I find it works very well. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235038987-bedding-decals-in-klear-future-or-equivalent/ Anyway, enough of my witter Very enjoyable and informative build, fantastic result
  12. RS used by 30 Sq in Ceylon 33 Sq in Lybia Both flying Hurricanes see and leads to a wrong profile as well.... see here https://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,342114.msg4516518.html#msg4516518
  13. For the patchy 1 Sq repaint scheme? Sky for all. Standard for Day Fighter Scheme, introduced in August 1941. If you have not seen it, read this https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Camouflage-Markings/Hawker-Hurricane as it has a lot of information, note, while old, these monographs were the result partly of declassfied documents at the time. HTH
  14. This I doubt. If 157 is anything like Azure blue, it woin't be, if it's like it is shown in this thread, it won't be either. While searching about last night, Humbrol 25 was mentioned, and for a non mix Humbrol that is in area. OK, if you don't want to get too wrapped up, I'd suggest Tamiya X-4 would be close enough, having just looked at my brush out in bright sunlight compared to the RAF Museum MAP chips. It's a fairly pure blue, if you have access to a RAL K-7 classic deck, RAL 5000 Violetblau is a little darker and more purple, RAL 5010 Enzinblau is a little lighter and brighter, would be better of the two on a model For the FS 35056 is far too purple, 35052 is a lot closer, but darker/duller. HTH
  15. Not for everyone it seems, but for gap filling, superglue and talc, more talc = thicker paste, and a softer filler. Can be sand, scraped and carved. Dries fast, not as fast as your UV, but a couple of minutes at most. Not read through all this recently, and not directly related to the 240 grit, but have you ever used woodworking scrapers? One that is a very neat tool is a gooseneck scraper, very useful for thinning down wing trailing edges, or if careful, mould lines on a curved surface. Or even woodwork..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152843315008 You can also get small one for violin makers, the above is big one, which makes it easy to grip. Hope of interest. Neat work on the Vulcan, I enjoy seeing careful construction, with illustrated details of the problems and how they were solved. I'll read thread like that even if the subject is not of particular interest, as techniques transfer.... cheers T
  16. Yes, art has been made using injection moulded kits as the basis and the Chapman brothers made a piece called Hell with 60,000 WW2 German/Nazi figures see https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/jun/16/jake-and-dinos-chapman-how-we-made-hell https://cdn.theguardian.tv/mainwebsite/2015/06/16/150616hell_desk.mp4 Jummy Cauty of KLF fame made model scapes https://nowthenmagazine.com/articles/adp-riot-tour-james-cautys-aftermath-dislocation-principle " On 25 July 2016, Jimmy Cauty’s Aftermath Dislocation Principle arrived at Catcliffe Recreation Ground, housed in a 40-foot shipping container and pulled by a 30-tonne haulage truck. If you haven’t seen it yet, it’s a huge model of a dystopian landscape. All around is the residual carnage of an unspecified apocalyptic civil disturbance. Everywhere there is debris and destruction. The only people you can see are the police, and lots of them. The rioters are eerily absent. The model is built at 1:87 scale and has the feel of a model railway. It is viewed through a series of holes drilled into the container." and https://nowthenmagazine.com/articles/jimmy-cauty-brings-estate-exhibition-to-sheffield https://jamescauty.com/work/the-aftermath-dislocation-principle/ Great quote here though https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2016/jul/17/jimmy-cauty-outsider-artist-klf-model-village-adp-tour-interview "Cauty does have one final thing to say about his new thing, though: if only model-making weren’t so fiddly. “I’d be holding something and say, ‘Can you just take this?’ And people would say, ‘You’re not holding anything.’ You think you’re holding something, but it’s actually gone.” Although he had helpers, he’s the only one who could break the windows correctly and position people the right way. “It’s because of my sense of cartoon-ness. I study the way people stand in groups: usually either bored or excited.” These days, he says, if he sees a group of real police officers, he wants to go up and reposition them." Though , whether a as an accurate miniature is art? As other have stated in the thread, craft is a better definition, but then there is a blurred line between craft and art anyway, I mean shop have 'arts and craft' sections.... so where does one stop and the other begin? EDIT PS this was a link from the comments in the last article, I'd not heard of this before (so apologies if old news) .... and it's bonkers! is it art?
  17. Hi Nils, you may also wish to say what kind(s) of paint you like , eg acrylic, enamel and/or can get? Many years ago Compucolor made Deep Sky https://www.scalemates.com/colors/compucolor--692/cb-16-deep-sky-enamel-matt--14368 when searching that up, seems Vallejo do a colour called Deep Sky https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/model-air-en/deep-sky-71090/ Though it is also a 'match' for FS35056..... I personally would not trust Vallejo to match a colour with "both hands and a map" as the saying goes, but I can eyeball the RAF MAP chart vs FS35056 when there is some cloud free daylight if that helps....assuming it matches FS35056 If I do I'll see if what is close in the RAL K-7 deck. My pot of Tamiya XF-8 is good visual match for Deep Mediterranean Blue, http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/images/bstablegb_1.JPG Deep Sky IIRC is a slightly lighter/greener, but can re-check in daylight. I'll check it against RLM24 as well. I'd say Tamiya XF-8 is in the 'ballpark' if you don't want to go down a paint mix rabbit hole.... HTH
  18. But there are degrees of accuracy of colour. In the case of Tamiya, most of their paint range are not specific colours. They only do 3 specific RAF colours, XF-81 Dark Green, XF-82 Ocean Grey Xf-83 Medium Sea Grey. None are particularly close the standard, but it also seems Tamiya have batch variance issues. But, FWIW, from the ones I have XF-81 Dark Green, - a bit too brown, XF-82 Ocean Grey - too blue, Ocean Grey has a subtle green-blue aspect Xf-83 Medium Sea Grey - hard to pin down, but MSG has a very very subtle purple blue hue, which XF-83 does not. Solutions? add 20% XF-5 green to XF-81, add a tiny amount of yellow to XF-82, around 5%. MSG is harder, a reasonable match can be made by adding 50% white to XF-82, a really close match involves adding a tiny amount of red to that That said, I have found that none of the acrylic paint purporting to be matches for RAF WW2 paints are very good for the chips, which is rather depressing as this is hardly an arcane subject as several are still in the current BSC381C standard. Then you start with the specified colour, and take it from there. What the modeller finds pleasing to the eye is up to them. I've not commented on the colours here, as the OP is happy with what he uses, which are whatever seems the best bet from the existing Tamiya range, and I don't blame him. Result. A fascinating collection of completed Hurricanes models in some very interesting schemes, and a thread I greatly enjoy following and adding information too, and try not to distract in paralysing detail. Yes, indeed. And certainly there are environmental factors that cause the appearance to change. And this is an entire area of study of it's own. Always good to have some informed commentary. No, the site http://www.4bogreen.com, has ONE page on colour, this one, http://www.4bogreen.com/colors and it's not very helpful either, unless you have a FS595 deck. the rest is on various KV type tanks. ditto Just trying to add some points, politely I hope. No offence is intended.
  19. if you have any that show structure/rivet lines, u you can work it out, as the gun bays were fitted round the existing structure, basically you can eyeball them. as seen here Not ideal I know. Also, be wary of Hurricane plans. A lot are often a bit off, and I don't that Bentley ever did the IIB in detail, he did do roughs of the MkII/IV, but can't recall if he drew the wing panelling I think the very old PSL History and and how to model them book had the IIB wing, but mine is buried 'somewhere' at the mo.... HTH
  20. I really would not bother. The Daco does not really 'fix' the kit. All it does is give you a correct sized nose ring and some new radiators. Make your life easier, buy the Airfix FR XIV. I have posted a list of corrections for the Academy, it's do-able, but a lot of reshaping. HTH
  21. A very good chap to ask would be @Dana Bell He drops in here, and has been researching these things since, well, I had one of his books back in 1981.... There maybe something in this scanned here https://boxartden.com/reference/gallery/index.php/Camouflage-Markings/Consolidated-B-24-Liberator Just mix enough to start with. Given the amount of time and effort, as well as cost of the base kit, not making up a big enough paint batch, is a false economy. HTH
  22. Somewhere I read about paper being doped over the ejections slots. Makes a waterproof /dustproof seal, but a spent shell goes through it easily. eg, this is a desert Spitfire, notice what I presume is paper over the MG ejection slots. RCAF Spitfire Mk V, 1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr The chaps you want are @Dana Bell, and @Tailspin Turtle who are likely to know the right answer. HTH
  23. try here https://m.geograph.org.uk Has 1000's of landscape photos, while doing your own is great, it's limited by what you can physically get too, this has a huge archive, so can take a bit of searching. Hard to beat natural light though. This was taken on point and shoot Concord digital camera, which cost £5, (inc post) off ebay, base is a very faded and grubby green baize topped card table I found, had put out for rubbish. The backdrop is the park opposite me, with low diffuse sunlight. I have a storage box which I sit the table on flat, so I can get low to subject. I did the prop on brass rod and tubing, so it spins freely, and the wind caught it. A considerably more refined approach is explained here, photos have gone, but are on the website link, and this set up has produced some great looking photos. Note the comments on spreading the background image over several A4 sheets. Your photos look great.
  24. and they were interchangeable Or pick one that has that type.... fancy something different? Used for mail around D-Day... see ONe last thought, I don't know how clear the Fly instructions are on what goes on what version, but the Mk.II uses a carb intake with a rear fairing, as seen here, I( think there is one in the kit, but I've seen the Mk.I type fitted to builds... Hurri BBMF underside crop by losethekibble, on Flickr
  25. No such thing as a IXb, as in a IX with a B wing. The confusion is there was an unofficial IXA/IXB term used to differentiate between engines. the other terms used were LF, F and HF, for engine type fitted Low, standard, High. MH434 is a IXc, with a removed outer stub. Which look like a B wing, but isn't (the term IXc only come about to differentiate between a IX and a IX with the later E wing) I'll add in links on these later. I'll have a look at MH434 and the various Eduard kits, as the Eduard kits vary in that they have different wing with different gun bulges. It really depends how picky you want to be, as IIRC MH4343 may have the post war wheel bulges. If that doesn't bother you, a late MkIXc kit should have all you need. Decals should nit be a problem, as MH434 flew with a Polish unit, and like Czech options, these are very popular with modellers there! there are several 1/48th Hurricane Mk.II's, just none are available at the mo, and with the upswing in stay at home hobbies, the 2nd hand market is a seller market... Note, the basic standard Hasegawa IIc kit has these markings.
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