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Troy Smith

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Everything posted by Troy Smith

  1. Based on the G-10 at Planes of Fame at Chino, CA, which was near Revell HQ then, and they probably had a copy of John Beaman's - Last of the Eagles as well. The kit matches the drawings well, which was the first publication dealing with these late 109 specifically, I re-read mine recently, a lot more details has come to light since, but for what was available then, it's a fascinating bit of research. I remember the kit coming out, it also provided a reasonably easy conversion to a K-4, in fact, Revell later issued it as a K-4, adding a tall tail wheel and out UC doors, but it was still the same basic G-10. I still have in a box one I was trying to backdate to a G-6.... as well as K-4 conversion. For the 109 obsessed there are a few issues, but I've seen that said about the all-singing-all dancing new tool Eduard 109's as well. Has raised panel lines, and has not been available for quite some time I think. The G-10 got the engraved treatment which was very unusual back then. They are maybe a bit wide nowadays, but certainly not trenches. Their 1978 Spitfire Mk.II, (which OOB is a Mk.I) is actually very well shaped overall, but lacks the gull wing, and again, raised panel lines. I picked one up cheap when it got reissued recently and was quietly impressed. I though they were conversions? A Erla nose, and small wheel bulges wings. Post from the USA to the UK these days, along with no tax exemptions makes ordering anything from the US now and expensive, or if caught by customs, and associated fees, and expensive business. It should be noted, re upgrades, that Hobbycraft basically copied the Revell G-10 for the G and K series kit, and some of these are still available via Academy. A few years ago I picked up some 1/2 price Eduard etch sets from a shop shutting down, they used to be the UK Eduard importer, and thus has lost of older sets, I picked up some for upgrades, which may not have been obvious, eg an Hobbycraft/Academy Avia S-199 etch set, almost all of it is common with a late G, so can be used on the Revell kit. The real bargain was older zoom sets that I got for £1.50, had seat straps, IP and some cockpit bits... This was before I found I was not going to build the entire Luftwaffe in 1/48th but it's not like it goes off.. Europe is also potentially tricky to order from for the same reasons. Indeed, spare canopy and wheels are possible from memory. Sure there are many other bits as well as they have common sprues in the kits with lots of unused items. Absolutely. With care, and a few little basic tweaks, like adding some cowl guns, drilling out the cannon, drilling the wheel well leg liner cut outs, and some seat straps, brake lines, and a few other little details, and good paint job, I think it would surprise a few folks as to it's age and origin. I mention this as there does seem to be a reflex to assume that kits NEED extensive add ons, when much can be achieved with some fairly basic skills and some basic materials. cheers T
  2. indeed. Which would explain the "AVG P-40's have gray undersides' argument. And it's a dreadful match for Sky.
  3. Airfix quote available Humbrol products for the nearest 'match ' They still quote Humbrol 30 for RAF Dark Green, which apparenyly was OK in the 1960's, but has been a blue-green since at least 1975 (I have kit remains from then with it on ) when Tamiya did their 1/32nd Zero, they brought out a paint for it, XF-76 gray-green (IJN) which is rated on Aviation of Japan as being good for a slightly weathered/faded airframe, which maybe your best bet unless you like mixing. quote from link below "Tamiya XF-76, which in colour charts and their own model adverts often appears to support the minty grey-green brotherhood, is, as measured (and sorry to disappoint), a Munsell Y - Yellow. It is slightly more greyish than the Zero factory paint - at a difference of only 3.67 - being something of a compromise between the original amber-grey appearance and a slightly oxidised and chalked appearance, or, alternatively, between J3 leaning slightly towards ameiro and plain ol' J3. Note especially that it has an identical Munsell lightness value of 5.8. The pigments and their ratios in XF-76 paint are as follows:- Titanium Dioxide (white) 16.5%, Pigment Green 7 (Phthalo Green) 0.2%, Red organic 0.2%, Yellow organic 0.5% and Diatomaceous earth 0.7%. Pigment Green 7, although a strong tinting colour (despite being transparent), is known to darken and dull with long term exposure. The red and yellow organic pigments are not specified and there are several different types. Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring silecious sedimentary rock ground into a fine, off-white powder used as a filler and matting agent. XF-76 is perhaps more representative of a moderately weathered aircraft in service for several months. Depending on lighting it can appear browner or greener, brighter or duller in online model images. " When fresh the colour is described as an olive grey. Tony, you may find this all a bit much, but here's the relevant pages http://www.aviationofjapan.com/search?q=zero+grey Nick Millman used to post here but tired of having to explain the same points again to the same old arguments. Liked the quiz, I'm mostly C's... But, hopefully you now have an out the pot reasonable answer to your question? HTH T
  4. Troy Smith

    Paint Brushes

    I have found small flat brushes very good with acrylics, and for vehicles, I suspect they would be handy for larger areas with enamels. Humbrol do a set for modellers. https://support.airfix.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360016171859-How-to-use-Humbrol-Flat-Brushes using acrylic, but you get the idea. As for Colourcoats, order some of their thinners, as with that you return paint to the can if you mix it up too much. White spirit is oily gunk, fine for cleaning brushes and such like, but a false economy with paint thinning. @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies is not a fan of brushing, but other do brush Colourcoats, and he maybe able to advise more as that what works for them.
  5. If you want some detail, get a simple photo etch zoom set, or a resin seat with belts, and a vacform canopy. Aires are a full resin cockpit, and the you want a vacform canopy to display it... Wheel maybe, exhaust maybe, but you maybe just making life difficult for yourself. Most of this would be for folks who are in the know. Built with care, and good paint job, it would look fine. I'm not even sure much of the current aftermarket is suitable for the old revell kit these days. It's a very old kit, dates from 1978, but overall is actually very good. It has some issues, but you'd have to be a hardcore 109 nut to spot them. It was the first basically accurate late war 109 kit ever made, and I suspect it was someone at Revell's pet project, as it's a lot better than all the other kits they did then. If you want an alternative, with bells and whistles, then an Eduard profipack, they come with etch and multiple decal options. They also do various 109 kits. And getting one of those would be the same as getting a load of aftermarket for the older kit, and the new kit (which some 109 nuts says has issues) has amazing surface detail, slide moulded exhaust, masks and cockpit etch. see https://www.eduard.com/eduard/bf-109g-10-wnf-diana-1-48.htm this is profipack this https://www.eduard.com/eduard/bf-109g-10-erla-1-48-1-1.html is the weekend, with less add ons,. but several decal options and the weekend MTT Regensburg https://www.eduard.com/eduard/bf-109g-10-mtt-regensburg-1-48-1-1.html the weekend kits are quite a bit cheaper. late war 109's are a very complex subject. The revell kit build up as a Diana plant built G-10, they were built by 3 factories, the other were Erla amt MTT Regensburg, and vary in details. G-10 are a very very complex subject, as well as those from the 3 plants, some were rebuilds, I'd have to spend some time digging to be sure. Eduard do kits from all 3 factories. Schemes. Loads. late war 109s vary, again, depending on who built them, and when, and if rebuilds. They were also flown by Hungarian, and few by a anti Soviet Russian unit., these fit the revell kit, but there are Erla built Croatian ones. Again, you need to know your 109's for all these details. Oh, and there there is the added complexity of late war Luftwaffe colours.... oooh, that's a big rabbit hole as well. Bet you wish you hadn't asked now! Also, if you want something with more 'wow' factor, Revell do a 1/32nd G-10, which is AFAIK rated as rather good, it's modern, from the last few years, and quite cheap, and being 1/32nd is just that bit more impressive in box review http://www.hyperscale.com/2014/reviews/kits/revell04888reviewbg_1.htm this will also give you a run down of some of the many features of late war 109's, different cowls, wing bulges, wheels, tail wheels, rudder types, canopies.... There are of course plenty of other 109 variants as well..... I don't know if this has really answered your question though? May give you some idea? feel free to ask for clarifications, HTH
  6. I had read that Xtracrylix were very good, but when i did a Hurricane in DG/DE, I was very put out when I compared to the MAP chips. I then spent a long time mixing paint. My recall of Xtracrylix Sky is a quite a bright colour. Another one to check. I have some AK Interactive, these and they were poor as well. Someone did say they are a different colour when sprayed, which strikes me as not being very helpful. I was about to buy some Hataka blue range on ebay but it sold, and no-more is available on there, so I can't comment. Also, need to get some more Tamiya, I've not tackled the FAA colours, yet, but I'll be looking at Sky, and others as well. I'll post up any mixes that seem good to me. I have to say i was really put out by this, in particular by Xtracrylix, which seem to be highly rated....and were not good matches. (I read the Dark earth needed a really good stir, I'd used a bit bent wire in cordless drill to make sure) . only to be plunged into the realms of trying to mix and match. Colourcoats are looking more appealing all the time as I know they are matched known sources..... I'm just not a fan of the smell and clean up of oil based paints. ....
  7. I agree. I mentioned that they looked very washed out. I have very good colour vision. 34424 is very close to ANA 610. 34583 is slightly yellower than MAP Sky . My FS deck is FS 595B, made in 1989. I'll try some photos in direct sun, and see if that's any better. The one above was mid afternoon, outside in daylight but not direct sun. It was done quickly, as had other things to do. Apologies if this muddies the subject. AFAIK, Dupont 71-021 is the color on the P-40 bits shown by @LDSModeller I believe ANA 610 is later. @Dana Bell maybe able to add more. HTH
  8. light is fading, and this is something best seen under direct sun, as it's a very subtle color, I'll try top get a better shot, but this is direct low evening sun 50621068 by losethekibble, on Flickr mix left, chip right, the bend of the page has caught the sun on the right of the chip, it's not really glossy, but has a definite sheen. I'll have too see if better light will show the color. @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies described it as dark smoky blue which you can see here, I hope. it was a surprise to me, I think we are conditioned to expect somethinge like straight Tamiya XF-17 Sea Blue, which is dark blue green. ANA 623 did fade in service, the reason it got replaced in 1947. As for the mix, I read a @Mike Starmer mix using Humbrol, which was their 77 Sea Blue plus Purple, so I tried the Tamiya paints I had. Note, my Tamiya are old, still in 23ml jars, so if they have changed the colors.... Been meaning to order some newer paint. HTH T
  9. OK, 50621066 by losethekibble, on Flickr on my screen this all looks a bit washed out. Not a great camera. In particular the RAL chips to the left, which are quite intense in person, I just added those as I had them as well, and RAL decks are reasonably cheap, you can get them for about £17 IIRC. Forgot to do the Vallejo, but looking at the chips, ANA 610 is darker and greyer than Sky. To my eye 34424 is close to ANA 610, 34583 is closer to Sky, slightly yellower. HTH
  10. Vallejo are blinkin' useless at color matches. I can tell you that this Despite the name, Pastel Green, is slightly greyer and lighter than the RAF museum book of MAP colour chips, and that ANA 610 Sky (NOT 613) is very slightly lighter and greyer than MAP Sky, (which is a pale but quite intense yellow green) as there is a chip of ANA 610 in the Monogram The Official Monogram US Navy and Marine Corps Aircraft Color Guide Vol.2, which contains these color chips, (for clarity, both of the above are actual paint chips) and also includes ANA 603 Sea Gray and ANA 613 Olive Drab scans were posted here a while back, and are shown below. The book can be be bought is the USA for not a ridiculous amount. If you want i can do you a photo of the charts and paint together. again, I'd not trust Vallejo's stated matches AT ALL. I also have a FS 595B fan deck, so can add FS 34424 if you wish.... it's a clear day here so I might just do a pic anyway.
  11. I had added details in the Flickr comments, but this got posted 3 days ago on Flickr, "That photo isn’t Lieutenant John 'Jack' Haberfield. It’s Charles Lavender from Enfield, in North London. He was one of the original members of 1844 Squadron until April 1945 when relieved and replaced by my Grandfather. Source: Heaven High Ocean Deep by Tim Hillier-Graves. 1839 Squadron in which Haberfield served.... and 1844 Squadron in which Lavender served.... Both were on HMS Indomitable and flew the F6F Hellcat. The pilots lived and worked together as one unit, sharing the same cabins, taking shore leave together and flying the same missions along side each other. Lavender (pictured) and Haberfield (not pictured) would have know each other well. HERE IS WHAT Lt./J HABERFIELD RNZNVR actually looks like https://navymuseum.co.nz/explore/by-themes/aviation/we-remember-t-slt-a-john-haberfield/ N.Z local newspaper shows it very clearly...." I'll @iang who may know this already, but if not perhaps may be worth following up any leads. cheers T
  12. Tiny steps. Passenger is part painted, the main colour blocks, , driver less so, but did have a little do last night. I only noticed later on the driver left arm was going to foul the central cross bar. So that was some more surgery. More involved builds get more procrastination as they progress as you get more worried about messing up, little things like uniform colours, so thanks for asking. Also done more of the interior in the dunkel gelb mix, and added the gear stick. I'll do update pic later, as posting up a bit of progress and bit of feedback can help with perspective, as in, actually that looks ok and press on. Cheers T
  13. I have read the same story. Hardly worth two profiles, i think it's just a mess up, like LE-A having no fin flash, not that there is a photo of LE-A tail. (apparently there are 3 more photos of LE-A in private collection in Canada showing more of the plane) It was more a comment that it's a uninspiring package, FWIW, I did email Eduard and suggest that there are other options, there were P series Hurricanes in France, 73 Sq had them with rudder stripes, there are photos of V series Mk.I's with the bullet Rotol, I know of 3 with serials and codes, the bullet Rotol in in the kit. Make that 4, there is one with 257 Sq, in the formation take off photo, flown by a Pole, the decals have the DT, and another code letter and serial... and another option...
  14. It was in their newsletter .pdf anyway, they are still showing the same art as in the pdf Note, you can't build YB-f accurately from the supplied kit, they have missed the fin flash on LE-A, and are showing 2 JX-B, and it's not exactly the most original/interesting set of decal options either..... And, yes, I have posted this before as well.
  15. Some chaps who might know @Grey Beema IIRC there was a Fulmar ace? @iang a font of much FAA info.
  16. maybe too subtle. This is burnt umber/black oil paint, a little added neat and then streaked with a brush wetted with lighter fuel, panel line wash is again oil paint, burnt umber/black/white mix to make a dirty mid grey. Note the oil stains are over the matt coat, as this allows the oily sheen to show. try pastel chalk over the final matt coat. I find W&N Galleria not dead flat, which is fine for airframes, but exhaust deposits are dead matt, I once got to climb onto a just landed Hurricane warbird, the pilot said to mind the deposit as it rubs off easily onto clothing, but was noticeably a surface deposit, see here for some period colour as well as more on the above. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052380-hurricane-airfix-72nd-fabric-wing-mki-oob/page/3/#elControls_3315765_menu HTH
  17. AB- MK402 274/1 SAAF SOC 18.10.45 http://www.airhistory.org.uk/spitfire/p070.html MK402LFIXCBAFM6633MU 15-2-44 222MU 26-2-44 Empire Ray 21-3-44 Casablanca 6-4-44 274Sq 1SAAF SOC 18-10-45 no list of 237 Sq, but, if the ORB has MK402 listed, then the above maybe wrong or incomplete. @Graham Boak may have some information on one of Shores Mediterranean books.
  18. Dull red and blue came in with camouflage, see the colour pics of 3 sqvin spring 39 for confirmation, that is why Gloster gets mentioned, for using the wrong paint. I think that early Gloster Hurricanes got the roundels repainted as well, examples that do show a difference are rare. I can dig out examples if you wish, but later as no time at mo.
  19. Not seen him on here for a while, but @Jerry Crandall maybe have something. Also, @FalkeEins @tank152 @SafetyDad maybe have something.
  20. There is more than that, re-reading the linked thread, Ifound I'd also added these links Jon's build is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234923967-the-dehavilland-sea-hornet-nf21-classic-airframes-148th-model-with-a-few-embellishments/ Notedoneyet's is here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16322-148-hornet-f1/ This is John Adams of Aeroclubs thread on the Trumpeter kit, and it's faults and fixes, but has a lot of information as well. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234973909-a-dh-hornet-fix-ation/ yes, but if the fixes on the CA kit are not massively difficult, as the links should show. The harder bit if getting the information, which fortunately has been done here, and finding CA or Dynavector kits....
  21. see here there are others, but this is one by @David A Collins of the Hornet project, and has a lot of information on the subject as well as corrections. HTH
  22. That I would venture is a @Chris Thomas question, as one of the authors of a 4 part work on the 2nd TAF, he'd be a good chap to ask.
  23. Availability. The only one available is the Trumpeter kit, (and I don't think it's that available) which is the worst of the lot. There is thread here on fixes. I suspect nowadays that both the Dynavector and Classic Airframe kits are blinkin' hard to find, the Dynavector maybe less desirable as it's a vac form. There was a resin kit by Arba as well, but that's even older. I've not checked the Dynavector against the Classic Airframes kit, though the corrections for the CA kit were not massive, fuselage length and UC leg position were the big problems IIRC. I don't recall any major wailing and gnashing of teeth over the Dynavector, but I suspect it shares common faults with the CA kit, which were from poor drawings or commonly quoted incorrect dimensions. At least there is a 'recipe' for correcting the CA kit worked out, that is often the hardest part!
  24. I think at the time of the Bismark hunt, the disruptive stripes on the hull had been removed. Makes for an easier paint job. I asked as I got the Airfix 'Sink The Bismark' 1/1200 set I have a RAL fan deck if you want to check the RAL colours
  25. the chap you want is @NAVY870, one of his pet subjects.
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