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About Reconcilor

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    Established Member

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  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    Aviation, History, WW2, painting, modelling

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  1. Oh no. Yet another newbie who hasn't built anything in 20 years and still makes better models than I do! 🙁💔 I'm thinking I'll take up knitting or cooking or something! I especially like the GR3 though! ☑️
  2. Canopy - Part 2 So far all of this canopy making business has been fine and it's been rather enjoyable carving out a teardrop shaped canopy from a chunk of high quality wood. In the back of my mind however has been a worrying thought - how am I going to attach this thing to the fuselage? At the end of 'Canopy - Part 1' I had gone about as far as I possibly could without having any kind of answer to this question so at this point I started to do some more serious thinking about this matter. Here's my attempt at a solution... Grab another piece of liquidambar and shape it into the same compound curve as the top of the fuselage. Here's the 'cross section' view. Here's the long-section view. Now I will have to attach the canopy to this 'accurately' contoured piece of wood - so I have carved this shallow rebate of the top of the block where the canopy will sit. And it sits in there quite nicely. Now I scoured both surfaces, again you can see the X marks in the base of the canopy, and filled the rebate with a generous dollop of 'liquid nails'. Then I whacked the two surfaces together and held with a clamp for about 3 hours. Cleaned up the surplus glue that has seeped out of the side of the joint. 'Liquid nails' is well named - although they are only glued together these two blocks are now very securely joined. Smothered the joint with PPP. Cut off the surplus wood at the base... Cleaned the whole thing up with sandpaper, and got ready to vacform the thing.. Now just in case you haven't worked out my plan here - I'm going to try to vac-form both the canopy and some of the surrounding 'upper-deck' (if that's the correct term?) of the fuselage. The idea is that the surplus plastic around the base of the canopy should match the contour of the fuselage. Therefore I should be able to glue the vac-formed 'upper deck' directly onto the top of the fuselage, and with it the canopy will be securely stuck in place! Let's see if this works... personally, I have my doubts. BTW - if any of you have any better ideas as to how to attach this canopy - please feel free to wade in at this point as I am fairly sure that this is not going to go too well. I am open to any suggestions.
  3. Remember, there's no such thing as too many Spitfires!☑️
  4. If you are asking the question I would suspect you are, at least in your 'heart of hearts' not happy with the colour.🤔
  5. Good progress. Straps look good
  6. Come on Van Roon! You know this is hard enough without you putting photos of the real thing up there for everyone to see! 😜 Thanks again for your help yesterday.
  7. Hi John_W, That's bare wood, polished with micro-mesh. Very fine close grain almost no grain at all. Seems to be a bit harder than basswood But still very easy to shape.
  8. Canopy - Part 1 When I were a lad I, used to make my canopies by heating a small sheet of clear plastic with a candle and then 'smash molding' them over a carved wooden former. Ah... those were days! But now it's the 21st century and my mate down the road, Mr 'Van Roon' owns a vac-forming machine. Now, I've never vac-formed anything in my life and to be honest I'm still a bit hazy on the subject, but I've just been dying to have a crack at it. So let's have a go at vac-forming the canopy for this project. First however, I am going to ramble on again, about some wood. This is a piece of 'liquidambar' (no spelling mistake it's ambar with an 'ar' not 'amber with an er'). Apparently it's also known as 'American Sweetgum' and 'Satin-Walnut'. This piece of wood was sold to me by a vendor who highly recommended it for carving and whittling, and wow! - did that guy know what he was on about! This stuff is incredibly good to work with in every regard and, if ever I'm stupid enough to embark on a project like this again, this is what my next fuselage will be made from. Shown below is a the result of a simple test to see what it might be like to scribe panel lines on this stuff - the result is sensational - each line is straight and clean and even. This is much better than I could manage with Jarrah. So - Liquidambar it is for the rest of the canopy making project. In order to make a vac-form anything it seems you need a mold (also known as a 'form' or a 'buck') to shape the plastic. I believe that the mold can either be 'male' or 'female' and it seems that people that really know what they are doing recommend 'female' or 'concave' molds. Such molds however are harder to make so I'm going to go the easy way and carve out a 'male'. For those of you who have been following along the next few steps should seem quite familiar... Stick on a profile view of the required shape. Remove most of the unwanted material with a saw, in this case a fret saw. Cut in closer to the final profile with a chisel, here a scoop chisel. Use sandpaper to achieve a more accurate final profile. Now repeat the process on the top view. As you can see - because the plan view now needs to be applied to a curved surface the length of the original drawing is not long enough. This is a classic case of a 'foreshortening problem' for which there are doubtlessly many highly sophisticated mathematical solutions. Here's my fix! Cut the paper up and move the bits about until the framework lines up. This is close enough for jazz music. Cut with a rusty razor saw whose handle fell off years ago. It actually is rusty and will be thrown away soon - but after waxing the blade with candle wax it still cut remarkably well. Please take better care of your tools than I do. Rough cut complete. Chisel the vertical shape. (I have taken much better care of my chisels than that poor razor saw). Sand to shape. Chisel and sand, being careful to leave the red marker stripe... Getting there - more sanding required at this point. Note how the armoured windshield is red - that's because I had already achieved the necessary flat panel on this surface and wanted it to survive the sanding / chiseling attack. If the red remains, the shape is intact. And after some final fine sanding and polishing I can cut the canopy mold off it's base. Leaving this encouraging looking shape. That's enough for now - but suffice to say, the mold is not actually complete. There's plenty more work to follow. Best Regards, Reconcilor
  9. Ok. Sounds like good advice! Does the sealant go on before or after the decals? The best way to apply decals for an NMF is causing me some concern - normally, on a painted finish, I would paint , apply a gloss finish (say pledge), apply decals, seal with more pledge and then spray on the final satin or Matt varnish. But I'm unsure if that approach is compatible with this finish. Any thoughts welcome. Am working on that canopy 'buck' tonight.
  10. Awesome!
  11. Sweet! A long time favourite of mine this jet.
  12. Nice to see this project near the top of the WIP posting list again. Am looking forward to seeing more progress on this. Will be using some of your techniques in future builds.👍
  13. Such welcome and unwelcome things at once,

    tis hard to reconcile.

    Macbeth, Act four, Scene three