Simon Cornes

Can anyone help please? I am looking for a copy of the plans for just the island superstructure for both of these carriers. I don't fancy shelling out over £180 for the full plan set for Invincible and no doubt something similar for Hermes but I have a specific project in mind involving either one or both of these carriers and a copy of the plans would allow me to start. If you can help, please PM me. Thanks Simon

Desparetely sad to see her in such a reduced state. I went about Bronington at her previous moorings - River Weaver? Even in those days the deck leaked like a sieve because the caulking needed replacing and rain water was just pouring in. I think it was because the timber was allowed to become too dry and shrank whereas at sea it would have retained its humidity and would have been regularly swabbed. The guys who owned her then just didn't seem to have the manpower to do that sort of thing. So she leaked. In truth she'd be better undercover in a dry dock but maybe she's just too far gone? Very

I'm thinking of the join between the 3-D printed wheel and axle and a piece of wire. If I were you I'd see you easy to is to fix that wire. I would be inclined to cut off the printing above the axle then file a slot into its to take the wire and CA the wire on. If thats a strong joint then you are there. I'd just then glue the scissor link onto the wire. But, as the wire oleo must slide inside a cylinder, then I'd slide some Albion tube over the wire and then attach the scissor to the lower part of that so that the wire becomes the oleo. Worth you experimenting? Sounds straightforward to me an

I think you might be better either supplying a piece of piano wire or allowing the builder to supply their own. Maybe you could produce the wheel with the axle moulded in and then the wire leg could just be attached to the axle, maybe some Albion tube and scratch built scissor links? That should be very satisfactory and eliminates the problem of resin legs. Just a thought!!

Totally agree Troy. I normally use Halfords White Plastic Primer as its simple and effective in my experience. You may have fun with thinning the colour coats though. They need to be thin enough but not too thin so probably best to spray onto some scrap paper or even an old kit just to see how it goes on. You are aiming for a smooth shiny dense colour but that might require more than one coat and try to avoid paint pooling anywhere. By the time you get into the Dark Green you'll know a lot of the answers to your questions! I hope you have plenty of Tamiya masking tape for when you're ready to

Great, I’ll drop you a pm later then about ordering one - in the middle of something right now!!

You never know, yours might be a better kit!! Does this mean that you might have capacity to do more Fairey IIID’s in 1/32? I might be interested if you could!!! Simon

Very sorry to hear this Ben. You’re in the same situation as Silver Wings with their Tiger Moth! But in your case you have produced a Canadian version and you probably also have enough data to produce a Rolls Royce Continental/Lycoming re-engined versions. Not models I would buy but you have that potential should you choose. Of course you could also scale up to 1/32 so your time most certainly wasn’t wasted !!

I wish I could get hold of one!! I have a couple of Badger brushes (a 200 and a Revell Professional, which is a Vega) and both attach to the compressor with standard Badger plastic airlines. At one point I almost got one from Paul at Little Cars but the last time I saw him was at Bolton in January and he didn't have the right end connectors! I e-mailed him subsequently, at his suggestion, but no reply was ever forthcoming. If someone can tell me what I need then maybe I should start searching on eBay? Thank you in advance Simon

And in stock at the Big H today!

I assume the drop tank in ARTF doesn't have trestle marks then?

Aren't RAF cockpits all Admiralty Grey - Humbrol 5 ? Re Hellfire/Brimstone - might be worth having a look at the Tornado SIG website?

Well that makes it easier - cast the the thrust reversers - I appreciate you’d have to make the vanes on the inside that Italeri provide as pe - then use Aries cans and cast compressor faces. Do-able if you really want to! Same goes with the EJ200’s with the Revell Typhoon if you want an engine out and two in the jet. Slightly surprising that the likes of Aires - or more likely Quickboost - haven’t done something already!

This is where you need to cast some resin burner cans and compressor faces then you’d be sorted!! Maybe Aires cans would do?

Well, as long as you have worked it out, it should do!!