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Malc2

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  1. Looking good, I have seen this brass wire and filler technique used very successfully by Marcin Matejkoy on his scratch built 1/32 Laird Turner Meteor. Malc.
  2. Hi Greggles, A tip from the great Gordon Stephens - to get a smooth part, mould the first one, leave it in place, then mould another directly over it. Some PETG's can stick together though, so be prepared to experiment. This does work really well with standard white styrene. I have limited success applying a finish to the buck, as the heat tends to affect it and either lift it or cause it to stick to the part on removal. My normal process is just before use, to warm the finished buck over the oven ring, this drives off excess moisture, raises the 'grain' of the buck which is then sanded off with very fine sandpaper, I repeat this a couple of times immediately before making a moulding. Using thicker PETG seems to result in a better opticaly clear part rather than thinner, so its worth experimenting with different thicknesses. I have had poor success making bucks from balsa wood or pine as the grain tends to show through after heating from the moulding process. I have successfully used Jelutong (very fine grain wood used for pattern making) or Ureol - I have not tried body filler, but as above can imagine that this would work well. One of my flying models in the American style with a canopy made using a Jelutong buck. Malc.
  3. Vote of thanks to @MattieR for starting this thread, I had used the contact mail address on the Hannants website and had no response. Found this thread and used the mail contact posted by @Dave Swindell (Thanks!) and had a response which fully answered my query. Shame Hannants don't post this contact on their website - not where I could find it anyway! Malc.
  4. Hi Matt, Once the buck is made and the part moulded over it, its easy to cut round the edge of the part, I keep the buck inside the moulding until the part is cut out to support the canopy. Once made, the eges of the buck needs to have about 1/8 inch added, this means that all traces of the corner of the moulding that wraps round the buck is cut away. I draw the cut line on the buck before cutting. Here is the plug and canopy for a Ta152, the plug is Chemical wood (Ureol). You can see the cut line I have drawn on the plug (and the screen frame line as a painting guide). This was a scrap canopy, the final one was better. Malc.
  5. No problem. I have to admit, making canopies is one of the bits of modelling I really enjoy doing. I usually plunge mould, but last year I made an A4 size vacform box and was surprised how well it worked. 2 weeks prep and 20 seconds to make the canopy! On another note, I noticed last year I was modelling by brail, (I already wear glasses for long distance) I found the glasses rack at poundland by chance and have never looked back (pun not intended). For a quid you can't go wrong! They are available in 0.5 diopter increments. Malc.
  6. This made me chuckle. Oh to have the space to keep everything! Do you know what your Dad used as a mould for the canopies? Or was it outsourced to another company? I am not sure what you plan to use for masking tape, but I can't recommend Tamiya masking tape highly enough. I used all sorts before and thought all masking tape was similar(!), but having tried Tamiya a few years ago, I now use it exclusively. I have just also discovered the white stretchy tape Tamiya do for curves, its also great. Best tip for removal I was given is to pull it 180deg back on its self, it lowers the risk of pulling up the paint its stuck to. Also immediately before spraying, run round (press down) the edges with a blunt cocktail stick, helps prevent paint bleed. Sorry if its Grandma and eggs and all that, but better to say and not need than never know! Malc.
  7. Thanks for this, I went and got it from my local(ish) Library and found it absolutely fascinating.
  8. Oof, nice, will look forward to the build. Apparently the 'Rupert Bear trouser' decals for the radiator ducts are very hard to handle and break up very easily. Malc.
  9. Wow, thats amazing, how did you make the wings and tail? M.
  10. This is top work and a great and unusual model subject. My OCD is on form though, you have missed the second E from Adderley. (I spent several months at SU as part of my apprenticeship!) Malc.
  11. Looks good, glad it all worked out OK! Malc.
  12. Good stuff, another interesting addition to the racing fleet! M.
  13. More great posts, thanks! Its interesting to see how big the original decal art work was. For pitot tubes - or any small parts I prefer to drill a hole. Then after primer and top coat the part can be added with a tiny drop of glue in to a positive location. Sometimes with paint and primer making the hole smaller the part can just be pushed in to place. M.
  14. I did not know about the TSR2, were there any other 'unpublished' models? A photo of the brass masters would also be interesting to see. We could have a very entertaining time identifying the parts! Malc.
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