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Bandsaw Steve

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Everything posted by Bandsaw Steve

  1. Hang on. I spy a ‘like’ from @Vanroon in the post above and I happen to know that he lives in Victoria! Look out VanRoon the Sweeney Todd might be paying you a visit.
  2. Underbelly In 2008 Channel 9 produced a new crime show called 'Underbelly'. It purported to tell the 'true but dramatized' story of various illicit drug production and smuggling operations in Melbourne. The remarkable thing was was that since many associated court cases were still in progress it was illegal for anyone in Victoria to watch it. This was a shame for our Melburnian friends as it was really good and was a huge hit across the rest of the country. Anyway - this post is my version of Underbelly. Victorians are not allowed to watch any further. Its the law. Here's the scene of the crime. Note the red line outlining a large bulbous underbelly on the lower fuselage of a Mirage III. We have strong suspicions that the bulge has been created specifically as a hiding place for methamphetamines and large wads of illegal cash. Despite what everyone says, we are sure it has nothing to do with aerodynamics or engines or systems or nothin'. Here's exhibit two. Same thing but again you have to try to see the shape of the fuse and not get distracted by the big fuel tank. It has to be modelled or the whole case for the prosecution will crumble like a cheap suit. I took the shots back to the forensics lab and started to see what I could make of 'em'. Us undercover operatives like to use easily concealed weapons like razor blades. Won't draw no attention ya see... Grinding everything down... no fingerprints this way. Plenty of white powder about though... if you take my meaning... This grainy photo is from a security camera. Date's intentionally been set wrong to try to throw us feds off the case - but it won't work - we is too sharp for that. I'm wondering who did the tampering though; can't help but think that someone on the force is enjoying some after-work benefits if you take my meaning.... More grainy photos. Two part Body-filler being used to try to cover tracks and try to build up a smooth approach to the Underbelly. Gotta be smooth and seamless when you are working on stuff like this. Yeah - Underbelly. Still too flat see... It's a jungle out there! Went to talk to 'Jimmy the Stick' down East-side. He's got a good operation going - running Tasmanian Oak Dowel. Any size you like. I went for the 25 mm... It stripped down pretty good. I took Mr hammer a little glue and a punch to it. Pretty soon I had a pretty sweet lead. Again - gotta cover your tracks with some two-part bog filla. She looks rough here - but this is a rough part of town... In work like this you always gotta check against the plan... We were taking some heat from City Hall. Seemed the Trailing edge fillet was sticking out too much - drawing too much attention to itself - not fitting in see? The Bandsaw made short work of that problem. Down here on the streets folks don't mess with the Bandsaw... Now we could really cut into the case. Seemed if we really wanted to fit in we could either cut more rebate from the fuselage or do a bit of this... Yeah - trim out some of society's dead wood to achieve... A nice seamless fit... Maybe not a perfect crime; but then there's no such thing. After some routine post-operation policework we've cleaned things up pretty good. A nice rounded Underbelly. I think you've got the idea. I think we can wrap this up. The mouthpieces can take this from here. Till next time... Let's be careful out there! Bandsaw Steve
  3. A beautiful piece of work, wonderfully complemented by the Combie van. Congratulations on this one mate!
  4. She’s coming along really well Jeff. I’m hoping to see this one on the WASMEx tables in 2022.
  5. Good to see this back at the top of the pile! Looking great!
  6. Oil paints remain ‘open’ or workable for a long time (sometimes days) allowing a lot of adjustment of thickness and general effect. They can be almost completely wiped off if need be, or slathered on if you wish. In oil paints the pigments are very fine and can be used to subtly alter base colours without adding any visible thickness to the paint job. I find I get better weathering effects with oils than I could with acrylics or enamels. Other people may have other views but that’s my take on it.
  7. Excellent, painstaking and imaginative work. This is reminding me that I really should have a crack at some sci-fi one day. Thanks for posting!
  8. Hi Dean, interesting stats. Is there a quick way to generate those numbers on this site or did you just count em up?
  9. The April 2021 edition of ‘Flying Scale Models’ magazine has an excellent set of 1/120 scale drawings for a Comet 4B. Not exactly what you are after I know but I am happy to scan and e-mail them to you if you wish. Drop me a PM if you want to go ahead. Steve
  10. Terrific! I must use this as inspiration to get my PZH 2000 back on the workbench.
  11. Sweet Bro! (That’s the kiwi lingo coming out now.) Always happy to get expert guidance on such matters.
  12. Steady on Jeff! You and I know that us hardened, bronzed Aussie 'sons of the ANZACs' types see dangers like that as routine, day-to-day occurrences, but comments like this might scare off the 'non-antipodean' readership. Steve
  13. Yep. TBH I’m not sure how it would behave but I suspect it might bend OK in the short-term but then delaminate or disintegrate over the next couple of years. MDF definitely does not like any moisture so I think steam could be highly damaging. There’s also the chemical side of things to be considered. I suspect there are some fairly nasty chemicals in the glue that holds the fibres together so hitting MDF with steam and then breathing the vapour might be inadvisable.
  14. Keep building mate! It’s good for the soul!
  15. Some folks say Concorde, others the F14 Tomcat. Some say Spitfire Mark….whatever… but I think the Bone is the best looking aircraft ever! Gotta love that shape!
  16. Yep. There’s also the option of steaming the wood at the inflection point and then just bending it as advocated by the great ‘W.O. Doylend’ in his 1957 book ‘Aircraft in Miniature’. That’s a good option, but I believe he only worked in 1/72 and used high-quality carving wood for the wings. I’m working in 1/32, so these wings are much ‘chunkier’, furthermore I’m using MDF and I’m pretty sure it will not steam well.
  17. Anhedral At the end of the last substantive post we had a jet that looked like this... I noted that the underside of the wing was still dead flat and that I had to add a curvey centre-section to the underside. What I completely overlooked was that the wing needed anhedral. Questions of anhedral and dihedral used to cause me a lot of angst; have a look at my the Avro 504 project if you want to see just how much. The good news is that following finally getting the dihedral sorted on the Avro 504 I now have a 'go to' method for both dihedral and anhedral that is really simple and easy. Here it is: Cut the wing front to rear into as many sections as are required to represent the angular changes. For example if I ever built something with gull wings - let's say an F4U Corsair - I would need a cut at each point where the dihedral / anhedral changes. On the Mirage however things are nice and simple, there is just one anhedral value and it's set at the centerline. So make a cut on the centreline as shown below... This creates two equal halves. Now measure the anhedral angle on the top-most surface of the wing. Note that this value -7.7 degrees takes into account not only the true anhedral (measured on the centreline of the wing) but also the wing's taper. which here increases the 'steepness' of the measured angle. Now cut a series of small plywood 'biscuits' with the measured angle of -7.7 degrees cut onto their top surface. Cut three slots - one for each biscuit - on each side of the wing. Make each slot slightly too tight to start with and then gradually open them up with sandpaper until the plywood slides in and holds by friction. Glue all three biscuits in place on one side. Voila... Glue the other side into position. Check the topside anhedral with the original protractor measurement just to make sure it's about right and then let the glue set for a few hours. The lower half of the biscuits can then be removed with a chisel and sandpaper. Use an appropriate filler and sandpaper to return a nice smooth finish to the wing. When the job is complete it should look something like thiis. Which when temporarily attached to the fuselage and viewed from the cockpit of my imaginary MIG-21 looks like this. and this... So, what was a nightmare on the Avro 504 turned out to be a fairly simple job on the Mirage. Next time I'll get to that curvy bit.... Promise. Bandsaw Steve
  18. No idea about what I’m looking at but I love it anyway! Obviously a great bit of scratchbuilding!
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