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About Photon

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  • Birthday 01/03/1969

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    Boston, USA

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  1. Some progress this weekend after not working on this for a couple months... I cut out and glued up the wall sections that will make up each side of the room. I designed a simple frame to support the wall sections at 45 deg. the backside: I found a decent picture of the Airlock set that showed some details that are hard to see in the film. I'll try to bring some of these details into my model, specifically the row of vents above the padding and the 6 cylindrical shapes behind the racks. I had some 1:72 wheel hubs from the Zvezda Ballistic Missile Launcher Topol kit on hand that are pretty close. I printed the vent structures and glued in some styrene spacers. I didn't sand these and will let the layer lines provide a bit of 'vent-like' detail. Hopefully it won't look too crappy. Here is one wall section completely clad. thanks for stopping by.
  2. I'm not sure what the dimensions of the set were, but If I had to guess, I'd says my model is about 1:15 scale
  3. Thanks everybody. I really appreciate the encouragement. So, I've been been running my 3D printer solidly, turning out all the "padded bits". I've got the ones that surround the doors pretty much done. These were printed in polystyrene, as I typically do. A bit warmer today ( -1° C), so I sprayed some primer on them, then ran in the house and hit them with the hair dryer. Here they are arranged on a 1:1 CAD drawing: Something that's been troubling me is how I'm going to bend up the tubular racks seen on both walls. I made up a couple of jigs and tried my first one today. It's not perfect, but I think the technique has promise. The aluminum block in the center is fixed in place by a couple of screws through the bottom of the plate. The 1/8" rod is held against the block with one of the clamps, then heated locally with a heat gun and bent. The next clamp holds it place and you repeat for the next one, working around the block. The two ends overlap each other. I remove it from the block and cut the overlapping ends flush with a razor blade. The groove in the top of the block is used to align the two ends while gluing. To get the two 45° bends, I use a second fixture. This is made from a piece of MDF. There is a stop at one end to align the frame to. and then clamped with a small piece of aluminum. The nuts in the MDF were pressed into a slightly smaller hole with my vice and secured with a little cyanoacrylate. I heat the rod again locally with the heat gun and bend over the form and install the next clamp. The last side is heated and bent but held by hand while it cools. The picture below will help: For the legs of the tubular racks, I made a jig that will allow me to drill a 1/8 hole exactly in the middle of the rod. Here's a test piece: That's it for now. Thanks for looking in. Peter
  4. Thanks everyone! For the indented areas on the doors, I printed some suitable positive shapes in polystyrene. I gave them a quick sand and filled in any low spots with auto body filler. These were positioned on the bed of my vacuum former and a sheet of 0.5mm card was loaded in the frame. Here's the result: The detail is a little soft in places, particularly the two smallest dents in the middle column. I'll have to try a second pull to see if I can get those smaller ones to resolve a little better. Here I've cut and glued the dents for one of the doors: and the back side: I'm very pleased this worked out. It's something I have been thinking about for a while: vacuum forming over a 3D printed shape.
  5. Fantastic paint work! The space suit and helmet look so good. That John Hurt melon is a big improvement over the supplied one, too.
  6. I've got everything cranked up: Depth 10 (deepest), Speed 1 (slowest), Force 33 (max), 2 passes. I've had great results right out of the gate. I'm using the blade that came with it (ratchet blade). I have not tried the deep cut blade yet. The pieces won't be cut clear, you'll need to snap them out by flexing the plastic along the score. They do snap clean, even along curves. This thing is a game changer and pretty cheap @ $119 USD. I
  7. I started my first project of 2019...a scale model of the Nostromo Airlock from the 1979 movie Alien. I will be working from this Ron Cobb concept drawing and a handful of photos and frame grabs from the movie. I have recently bought a "Silhouette Portrait" cutting machine and will be using that to do most of the tricky styrene cutting. I'm starting with the outer doors, which I have cut out the various pieces which will be layered and glued together. The machine is amazing. I never could have cut those out by hand in a million years. The doors are cut from .030" styrene. the raise panel details are cut from .020". Things are starting to be glued. I've wrapped the outer edges of the doors with thin strips of styrene. These broke when I bent them and will need a bit of filler, but over all things are off to a good start. Unfortunately, I ran out of my favorite glue (Tamiya Extra Thin) which is worse than running out of beer, because the local shops sell beer. So it will be a week or more till I can do any more assembly. Thanks for looking in.
  8. Nice work! With oils, I recommend using a piece of cardboard for a palette. It will absorb the linseed oil, allowing the paint to dry faster and with a matte sheen.
  9. Awesome! Did that start as a Sketch-up model as well?
  10. Thanks for the thorough explanation. I recently got a Silhouette brand cutter, but I've yet to put it though it's paces. It looks like it will be a game changer. You're really doing some inspirational stuff with yours. Peter
  11. That looks amazing. Great work! How do you get the Sketch-up files into a form your cutting machine can deal with?
  12. A few touch ups are needed here and there and maybe a final weathering pass, but I'm going to call this finished. I used Vallejo acrylics for the base colors and weathered with cheap student grade oil paints and odorless thinners. Thanks everybody for following along. I really appreciate all the encouragement.
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