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Bandsaw Steve

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About Bandsaw Steve

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    Obsessed Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    Aviation, History, WW2, painting, modelling
  1. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    The Shape of Water I guess it's fairly poor internet etiquette to rave about a product like I did in my previous post and not provide a link to the supplier or manufacturer. The 'wave corporation of Japan are the people that make this stuff and here is a link to their web-page. http://www.hobby-wave.com. Do be warned - it's very Japanese! Given the content of this particular posting it seems very fitting that I have started by posting a link to the 'Wave Corporation'. I'm getting close to a having a finished hull now and think that it's time to start working on the sea-scape. I have seen of the work of Chris Flodberg and read an article in the April 2016 edition of Fine Scale Modeller where he outlined his techniques. Try this link to see some of his stuff. http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/users/Chris-Flodberg/user-index.html Now just because Chris is a world leader in this field and I have never done this before doesn't mean I have to follow his advice! Nahhhh - I'll just press on and see how I go... To get a convincing wake pattern I think it's important to get some sort of idea of what wakes actually look like. Here's a useful diagram from a text on physics. Note the following salient facts: There are fundamentally two types of waves - for simplicity's sake let's call them 'Bow Waves' and 'Transverse waves' There is not just one bow wave - there are several fanning out behind the boat. Each bow wave when viewed from above is concave relative to the boat's line of travel. The average angle from the tip of the bow to the point of intersection with the transverse waves is 19.5 degrees. The transverse waves are evenly spaced and start at 90 degrees to the line of travel but then curve back gently. A 'cusp wave' forms where the bow wave and the transverse waves meet. Apparently all of this works for any non-hydroplaning vessel travelling over still water. The reason that the area of disturbance is called the 'Kelvin envelope' is because Lord Kelvin himself worked all this out way back ...whenever! I believe that understanding this pattern is the key to making realistic and convincing waves. The main complication is how this pattern forms on disturbed, say choppy, or swelling water. I am working on the assumption that the same wave pattern forms but it is harder to see because it is obscured by the other waves and that it dissipates more quickly as it gets disturbed by the surrounding background waves. Let's see if I can translate all of this theory into something 'real'. Once again I'm going to write this as if I'm instructing you how to do it... but that's just because it makes the writing easier than the first tense. Firstly - Buy a sheet of everyday polystyrene foam that's the right thickness in this case about 16 mm. (Note that it seems Chris Flodberg prefers insulation foam - but I couldn't get any that was thin enough). Here's a rough indication of how the model will 'sit' relative to the water. Mark out and cut out the bit you want to use. Mark out the outline of the boat. I think it's OK to use permanent marker here because the ink mostly sinks into the polystyrene and by the time I'm finished it will have to diffuse through a huge amount of paint and resin to cause damage to the finish. Here's where the boat will go. Mark out a line running 19.5 degrees from the tip of the bow. OK - I guess 20 degrees will do at a pinch! Now draw on the relevant waves - taking note of all the scientific hoo-haa above... From above it should look something like the diagram. Now - wait for your wife to go out somewhere and while she's not looking, grab her crème-Brule burner... Light it up and in short stabbing strokes 'attack' the surface of the polystyrene with the flame. Each time the burner gets close the polystyrene will crumple and shrink under the heat. Doing this judiciously will put a series of ripples into the polystyrene surface that I think are a pretty good representation of sea swell. Note how the heat has also markedly reduced the intensity of the permanent marker - so now it's even less likely to bleed through. Now get a sharp blade and cut slots along the lines of each bow or transverse wavl of the wake that you wish to model. It's easier to see the effect of all this if I hold the work in the sun like this. And now it's milliput time. I bought a new box of the stuff just for this job. Cut some texture into the 'wake slots' so that the milli-put will have something to grip onto. Using MollytheDog's advice, I cut the milliput 60% by 40% as shown - good advice Molly, it worked beautifully like this. Roll the milli-put up into a uniform coloured sausage. Make sure that you 'over-mix' it - remember it needs to be homogenous at a molecular level. Then work it into the relevant trenches as shown. The trenches are only there to give the milliput something to key into. As MollytheDog suggested - milliput like this is really easily worked and smooths out beautifully with a bit of spit on a finger... and is easily worked with a spatula. All of this leads to this... pretty awful looking really! But if you look closely you can see that I have managed to get a nice sharp 'roll over' effect on the leading bow wave. This Milliput stuff is really good! With a boat on it, it looks like this. Hmmmm... No better really....still looks awful. Next time I'm going to stick some colour on this water. It's just too ugly to leave like this for long. See you soon, Bandsaw Steve.
  2. HMS Fife by Kevin - Fleetscale - 1/72

    This is looking awesome Kevin. Keep going mate! 👍
  3. 1/350 HMS Meteorite

    A nice model of an interesting subject. Good job Courageous, and Mikro Mir seem to be going from strength-to/strength.
  4. Wow - the RFI section has suddenly just lit up with submarines. Submarines everywhere! Got to love it! I really like this model. I have seen the photos of the fat little jerk in question going for a ride in ‘his’ submarine and think you have the garish green just right!
  5. 1/350 HMS Meteorite

    Was it this one that was powered with hydrogen peroxide or some such?
  6. Collier brig 1809 - 1875

    I agree with PLC96 it would be great to see a WIP thread on one of these. 👍If you have already done one I have never seen it. Great work as always.
  7. New Zealand Warbirds Hangars, 4 February

    And the fighter pilot museum at Wanaka - although it’s been a long time since I’ve been there. Is it still going?
  8. Am watching of course. May I say that, given the modular construction and the superb interior, I’m hoping that you are going to display this ‘exploded’ rather than bolted together, if you take my meaning.
  9. Yep. ‘Just a simple case!’ 🤔
  10. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    Right angles everywhere... One of the things I've never been good at is making anything that involves making a true and accurate right angle or a true and accurate centred upright - especially if it involves drilling a hole. This week I've had to deal with nothing but uprights and right angles. It's been a bit of a pain but I have found one or two solutions, one of which I think may be of great interest to modellers of all abilities. To start off, here is the my version of the Marconi Radio transmitter aerial, very simply made from a brass tube with a thinner brass rod glued in place with araldite. In some ways this radio was the most important thing on the boat - this was the high-tech device that transmitted the news to the Allied commanders that AE2 had successfully passed through the Dardanelles. This news led directly to other allied submarines making the same hazardous passage and was the trigger for a prolonged and very successful allied submarine campaign in the sea of Marmora. Naturally the aerial sits bolt upright and dead centre on the deck casing. Naturally the first hole I drilled for it was off to one side. That was despite using the Dremmel drill press and drilling a guide hole and just everything! But not to worry - here comes the solution. Fill the hole with body putty and stick the aerial back in the hole. Just hold the damned thing where it should go and let the filler set. As I'm sure you all know, this filler sets like stone, so the aerial is there forever more now. Look! Nice and straight. A dodgy way to get there but I'm happy with this. Now comes a bit I've been dreading. Unlike more modern submarines, the early E-class boats had a collapsible mast. When surfaced they could manually raise a rather tall mast on which radio receiving lines were suspended. Prior to diving however the mast had to be dropped to a horizontal position and rested on a gantry just behind the conning tower. This was necessary as otherwise - when at periscope depth the submarines position would, in effect be marked by a 5m tall telegraph pole! Anyway this time I'm going to be really careful and use a braddle to deeply mark the point of drilling for the attachment points for the gantry. I'm happy to say that this time the holes actually went in really well! And now I had to use my new 'you-beaut' etched metal bending thingamabob to put two right-angles in a single brass rod. And it worked OK... This is what I was aiming for. The 'mast' is there for demonstration purposes only at this stage - I'll make a proper one later, but at least you can see how the gantry works. There's more to go on this - some stay wires etc, but nothing too challenging. And now for this... A few weeks ago I actually got off my butt and went down to the maritime museum at Fremantle to have a look at this replica conning tower. The visit went well and answered a few questions I had about some of the detailed fittings. What wasn't so great though was that on this replica there is a walk way, at deck level alongside the forward three quarters of the conning tower. In the photo below it's about half a meter above the stowed cable. This was not good news as I have never seen this walkway before and have not represented it at all on my model. On the way home, I dropped into the local hobby shop and spied some of this... 0.5mm thick plastic sheeting - same kind of thing that Evergreen makes, but in this case it's printed with a metric grid of perfect right-angled lines at 1 cm spacing. The little dots are at 1mm spacing. Oh My God! Whoever invented this is a Super-Genius! I could not wait to get it home and cut some plastic! And here is the stuff in action. If you look closely you can actually make out the walkway on the plans, I just hadn't looked closely enough before. Anyway, all I need to do is cut a perfect rectangle and the job will be done. this should be dead easy given that the rectangle is already plotted on the job! Voila - one essentially perfect rectangle! Just what a lazy and largely inept modeller needs! This stuff is brilliant and it's about the same price as evergreen, maybe a touch more, but definitely worth it! Not a lot to show for this week but at least the uprights are upright and the squares are square - or at least close enough to keep me happy. That's it for another week, am actually making some good progress at the moment so might see if I can do an update this Wednesday. Best Regards from, The Bandsaw
  11. Wasmex 2018 - Perth, Western Australia

    Here are some photos from last year's (2017) show, outlining some of the fine work that was on display - this year's show is promising to be another good one! Please note that the models on show here are made by a great variety of modellers from across Western Australia (and some from out of state). I took the the photos, but none of these models were built by me. Thanks to everyone who contributed to WASMEX 2017 - We hope to see your work again this year. Best Regards, Steve (WASMEX Committee Member).
  12. Don’t worry Mike - we are laughing at you, not with you! 🤪
  13. ICM Seehund 1/72. My first floaty WIP

    Not bad for one morning’s work!
  14. New Zealand Warbirds Hangars, 4 February

    Lovely collection! Thanks for sharing. If I might put in a plug for other kiwi museums- In my view the following are ‘must see’ for any aviation enthusiasts visiting NZ. - Omaka WW1 aviation museum in Blenheim - RNZAF museum, Wigram Christchurch. Take up their ‘cockpit tour’ deal and definitely spend some dollars to see their reserve collection and restoration area. - Ashburton aviation museum Ashburton (about 80km south of Christchurch) IMHO these are all excellent museums.