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Bandsaw Steve

Gold Member
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About Bandsaw Steve

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    Aviation, History, WW2, painting, modelling

Recent Profile Visitors

1,043 profile views
  1. Clyde Puffer

    Ah... there we go. 😀 See, this Barnacle is no bigger than a barnacle.
  2. Clyde Puffer

    Excellent. 👍 However, at least one of these photos should have a pen in it so that those who did not follow the build can see how small this is. 🤔 People will think this is at least four or five times bigger than it is.
  3. Historical European buildings

    How did the ‘beard hair’ experiment go? The photos are still down so I can’t see what you actually did with it. Did you make grass or something?
  4. Danton, Hobby Boss, 1:350

    And intimidating! Which she clearly is. A really good subject this - even if French. 😜 🇫🇷
  5. Danton, Hobby Boss, 1:350

    Wow! What a photo! A ‘stealth ship’ she aint.😮
  6. HMS Abercrombie

    Just to be clear - I am not claiming that adding a tiny touch of red will make the green more accurate (I really wouldn’t know) but it will tone it down a bit and will make it a bit less intense. When landscape painting I often add a tiny touch of complimentary colour to slightly deaden any hue I am finding a little too loud.
  7. HMS Abercrombie

    Suggest you add a tiny dash of either red or orange to the green. These are complimentary colours to green so that tiny little addition will just kill some of the ‘greenness’ without darkening the colour. Don’t add too much though or the paint will turn a mud colour. looking good otherwise.
  8. CV-9 USS Essex, 1943 - 1:350

    That little brass Oerlikon is unbelievable! (unbelievably good I mean!)
  9. Danton, Hobby Boss, 1:350

    Sacre-Bleu! Is this a French warship I am seeing on the pages of Britmodeller? Is such a thing permitted? Do you need a licence for such a thing? 😮
  10. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    Oh dear,🙁 Yes, I’ve just done some research and they should be stanchions not bollards. Sorry about that. 🙁 I’m a strong believer in stanchions. For example, I think we should have stronger stanchions against North Korea rather than just continuing to rail against them. Geddit? - Rail against them! Geddit?😬 Yeah I know ... yet more bollards being written in this thread. I would ‘go and get my coat’ but I can’t in this case because Its my build. 😀
  11. HMAS/m AE2, Scratchbuild

    A load of bollards Last week I went down to the local haberdashery shop and asked the young lady behind the counter if she had any 1 / 100 scale, World War One, British submarine deck bollards. 'Why yes' she replied 'I have just the thing!'... and so she did. Before I stick the big bits together to make the hull into one solid piece (and we are getting excitingly close to that now) I want to make sure that as much preparation as possible is completed for fitting any details that will go on toward the end of the build. The bollards that run along the middle bit are a good example. Here I am measuring off the location of the very first one. And here I am plotting it's position onto the casement. Yes, the 'casement.' I caught up with my nautical mate today, the one who lent me the plans for this build in the first place, and he was horrified to hear me call this the 'middle bit'. 'The correct term is "casement" he said knowledgeably... so now we know! Repeat the measuring off process several times. Mark up several vertical lines along the casement at the indicated locations. Here they are - one line per bollard. Take a razor saw and cut a notch on top of each line. Repeat...and check that the bollards will sit correctly in the slot - looking good here. Here's what these four look like when the sub's kind of assembled. Here's what the casement looks like when all of the slots are cut and all of the bollards are temporarily in place. This shot gives you a bit of an idea of what I'm aiming for. None of these are secured yet but once the hull is assembled the slot on the side of wooden casement should leave a vertical hole between the casement and the plastic skinning. One bollard should slip nicely into each of these little holes and then be glued into place. Of course once this is done for real there will be two lines of bollards and I will use the eye of the needles to thread some ezy-line through. Hopefully all this preparatory work will save some time and headaches latter on. Best Regards, Steve
  12. Clyde Puffer

    Looking even better than before! So pleased you found the missing display / setting. 👍
  13. Oh yes!👍 My bright, beady, little glow-in-the-dark eyes 👀 will be watching this one.
  14. 1/18 Fairey Firefly VX376

    Yes. Good idea. I have long thought that carefully concealed LEGO blocks and other LEGO bits and pieces have many possible uses in scale modelling, especially if you want to make a model that is modular and can be broken apart and rejoined at will throughout construction. LEGO is also very good for ensuring truely right-angled corners are achieved. I am highly likely to use it extensively in my next project and will watch your use of it with great interest. 👍
  15. 1/18 Fairey Firefly VX376

    Some really clever stuff going on here. Watching and learning! 👀
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