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Mediterranean Dark Blue/Light Blue


leyreynolds

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See the colour chips available in the Arms&Armour/RAF Museum RAF Colours book.  Or look on Sovereign Hobbies for Light Mediterranean Blue, I don't think that he does the Dark.  You are looking for something between RAF roundel Blue and Extra Dark Sea Grey.

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Hannants own brand of Xtracolour, goes on glossy and usually accurate as far a this modeller is concerned.  I don’t do acrylic, so can’t say about their Xtracryix range.     😉

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3 hours ago, Mike Starmer said:

If it helps, the mixes I have in Humbrol acrylics are Light Mediterranean Blue = 4 x 34 white + 1 x 104 oxford blue.  Dark Mediterranean Blue = 3 x 77 navy blue + 2 x 25 blue.

To you and others who make up mixtures in 'measures', what do you actually use (eg container) as a measure?

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18 minutes ago, Denford said:

To you and others who make up mixtures in 'measures', what do you actually use (eg container) as a measure?

Disposable syringes.  You can buy non sterile ones on ebay, and they can be reused.   1ml are good. 

I also bought a load of 10 ml screw top dropper bottles to keep mixes in.

 

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34 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

Disposable syringes.  You can buy non sterile ones on ebay, and they can be reused.   1ml are good. 

I also bought a load of 10 ml screw top dropper bottles to keep mixes in.

 

 

I have these:

 

45469452762_df88898425_b.jpg

 

 

The ones on the left are from some pet medications and the ones one the right came with children's cough & cold medicine, from when our daughters were wee people.

 

 

 

 

Chris

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7 hours ago, Denford said:

To you and others who make up mixtures in 'measures', what do you actually use (eg container) as a measure?

Disposable syringes for thick paints, they work great. Careful about having air bubbles in your paint, it can make the measurements wrong.

 

Pipettor for less viscous paint (Tamiya for example). It's a lab device used to handle precise liquid measurements, but it costs ~35$ and requires some learning curve (like this: https://www.amazon.com/ONiLAB-100-1000ul-High-Accurate-Single-Channel-Adjustable/dp/B07HPJQD5H)

 

For more precise measurements of thick paints I prefer mass ratios and use scales BUT beware - you need to have different ratios of mixes because, for example, titanium white is much heavier than carbon black. I provided quite a lot of those on forums here.

Edited by Casey
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11 hours ago, Denford said:

To you and others who make up mixtures in 'measures', what do you actually use (eg container) as a measure?

I buy bulk 1ml syringes (no needle) from the pharmacy, very accurate. Get some odd looks when I try to explain what they're for. Or you could hit Amazon

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Measuring-Colostrum-Scientific-Dispensing-Applicator/dp/B09G93J55F/ref=zg_bs_g_11849860011_d_sccl_4/131-4217142-6205710?th=1

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On 2/10/2024 at 1:40 PM, Mike Starmer said:

If it helps, the mixes I have in Humbrol acrylics are:

Light Mediterranean Blue = 4 x 34 white + 1 x 104 oxford blue. 

Dark Mediterranean Blue = 3 x 77 navy blue + 2 x 25 blue.

 

On 2/10/2024 at 8:00 PM, MACALAIN said:

I Use Humbroll 134 for the Dark, and old 157 for the light Mediteranean blue.

 

22 hours ago, PhantomBigStu said:

RGB is poor representation blah blah etc but this is a representation of what they look like

If these colours are to look like the samples provided by @PhantomBigStu, then the RGB for Light MB is 91-117-142 and for Dark MB 62-88-115. Please check this on your spectrometer and correct me if I'm wrong.

The colours given by @MACALAIN are from a completely different story: Light MB as Hu157 is 65-121-157, which is a bit darker and much less purple, and Dark MB as Hu134 is 33-66-137, which is noticeably darker and again much less purple.

I was surprised by @Mike Starmer proposals, which so far has always hit the mark. I don't have acrylics, but by mixing enamels in its proportions I obtained Dark MB almost identical to Phantom's (61-88-125) and obscenely bright Light MB. With a 4:1 ratio I got RGB 204-210-216, which is a light grey, closest to Hu147 (201-202-204), because Hu44 (181-208-237) - if similar in brightness - is much more bluish (saturated).

Only a strong reversal of the proportions (2x Hu34 + 5x Hu104) gave RGB 89-121-143, which is close to Phantom's. But note that pure Hu96 from a can is not far from it either (97-121-147). As for Dark MB, in Mike's mixture I would only replace Hu25 with Hu134. Then with a 3:2 ratio we get RGB 61-85-123, a tad closer in hue to the sample provided by Phantom.

Cheers

Michael

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17 hours ago, KRK4m said:

Please check this on your spectrometer and correct me if I'm wrong.

Just out of personal curiosity, what geometry, light source and observer angle and which RGB type you used on your device?

 

And also which color reference you used?

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2 hours ago, Casey said:

Just out of personal curiosity, what geometry, light source and observer angle and which RGB type you used on your device?

 

And also which color reference you used?

You're asking difficult questions, @Casey and I'm not a colour professional. I just like to have models painted with the appropriate color gradation - this one should be darker and that one lighter, or this green should be more blue and that one more yellow.

Of the five questions you asked, I can only answer three: measurement angle was 45°/0°, observer angle: 10°, illuminant: D65, light source: 8 LEDs.

The equipment I use is called Datacolor ColorReader Pro. The instrument is easy to use and (via BlueTooth) works with Android, which makes it just one step away from PhotoShop on my laptop. The price in Poland is about Ł300.

Cheers

Michael

 

 

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20 minutes ago, KRK4m said:

Of the five questions you asked, I can only answer three: measurement angle was 45°/0°, observer angle: 10°, illuminant: D65, light source: 8 LEDs.

So, geometry is 45/0, light source is D65, observer angle is 10 deg. That geometry is very sensitive to gloss level, that's why I am curious about reference colors source. My numbers from my posts are for different geometry (d/8 SCI) so they are not comparable.

 

More explanation why is in this article: https://hunterlabdotcom.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/an-1033-00-color-versus-appearance.pdf

 

This article also explains why reference is very important for your device - is it Colours of World War II book?

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