Jump to content

Paul Thompson

Members
  • Posts

    983
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Paul Thompson

  1. I've used stretched sprue and sanding once or twice when I started this sort of thing, but being naturally a lazy git I much prefer using decal strips these days. The thinnest from the likes of Xtradecal work fine for me, although in larger than 1/72nd I've also used redundant blue or pink lozenge rib tape strips I've had leftover from various sources. The main thing is to lay down at least one good coat of varnish or Klear to give them some extra protection for later handling and make sure they son't come loose. Paul.
  2. Nah. Sure to be a ready market amongst the modellers of WW1 German aircraft who no longer have to paint lozenge camo. Paul.
  3. Sorry to re-animate this thread, but I just looked in because I had a notification from someone else who just had, and see that my contribution was torpedoed when my photo host Picturetrail decided to stop hosting. So all the images I posted are dead. I loaded them back down, if that's a real-world operation, before the account terminated, so if anyone wants to see what it was all about I can send them if you PM me your email. (If I can find where I put them). Paul.
  4. Second try at a reply - it went blank when I hit the submit reply button. I didn't mean just US Ebay, I've seen it more generally. Which may be understandable in a world where you see Gladiators and Swordfish labelled as WW1, presumably just because they're biplanes. Paul.
  5. Agreed, but I don't think it's worth it for a decal sheet if he has to pay a total of around $40.00. Paul.
  6. Trust me, the Smer/Merit kit is the one you absolutely do NOT want. There's no excuse for it costing more than a few dollars, and the only useful bit you'll get is the box, in which to keep other things. The Inpact kit, whatever reboxing, appears over here in the UK on Ebay occasionally and can be pricey but patience will reward you. The last one I got (last year) was £8.00 - the postage to America would have put it out of your reach but it does also sometimes go for a similar price when I've seen one from an American seller. Worth expanding your search terms, because it gets mis-labelled now and then by unwise sellers as a Bristol Fighter. Paul.
  7. Yup. Small fortune from a large one. If lucky. I'd love a Sidestrand or Overstrand. However, I can think of no more than 5 people I know world-wide who would also be prepared to part with dosh for one, and 3 of those would be content with the Esoteric kit (as would I, if I could find one at less than offspring-mortgaging prices). Maybe not so content with the Contrail effort......... Paul.
  8. Not a lot of call for NMF during the First World War. Paul.
  9. Except for 3 sets of masks from New Ware. Perhaps the rest of the kit is considered decent enough? Paul.
  10. According to the never-reliable (but probably in this case) Wiki, Peppard flew one of the Pfalz replicas, but not on screen. Both Pfalzes and one of the Fokker D.VIIs are now owned by Peter Jackson. Paul.
  11. Different materials, I think. Not all plastic is chemically equal, and sometimes it's acetate. Someone sorted that out in one of the periodic discussions on the subject in Britmodeller, or at least so my brain keeps telling me. Of course, it would be handy to remember details, but I don't. All I know from my own experience is that it applies to Aeroclub and Rareplane canopies, depending on which production run they came from and what was (I suppose) the cheapest avaialble clear material available at the time. The only vac canopies I've never had go coloured are from Falcon, Squadron, and High Planes.
  12. Pfalz D.III, and I'd think so. Certainly no Albatos flown as part of the story, or referred to by name. Paul.
  13. PM me your email and I'll sort it out. March 1974, Scale Models, if you happen to have the issue yourself (It cost 20p. There's a number to conjure with). Paul.
  14. That's what I thought, certainly not in starring roles, only the two Pfalzes, but I think I once read there was the odd set dressing Tiggy meant to be an Albatros in the background. Never noticed, TBH. Paul.
  15. I'd been musing along the lines of doing just that, but on reflection don't think it would help Whatever bits get used, something will need adjusting due to the lower wing centre section having been shrunk to fit the narrower fuselage while not changing the other wing spans, all 3 of which should be the same once assembled. But at the very least then the end result should be that all 3 wings look the same span seen head on. I've just reread the other in-box review in Cher Ami (volume 9 number 3) by Rob Willis, and he caught more dimensional discrepancies than I did - the fuselage not being deep enough for a start. Coupled with the poor moulding, which his photos show more clearly than mine, then I think the choice is to mess with the kit wings, whatever it takes, to overcome the alignment problem and bring the final spans acceptably close - and substituring Revell wings won't help there. Or, bite the bullet and stick with the Revell kit, adding the missing details and replacing the worn out bits the old fashioned way with bits of plastic. What should have been superior bits from the KP kit like guns, engine, cowling, seat and prop, are so poorly moulded that it's a very expensive way of buying new parts, and many of them (like the cowling) wouldn't be fittable anyway. The one thing that should rescue the kit would be the decals, but at least in my two boxings they're terrible quality. Perhaps I was unlucky, but the only way to find out is to buy another one, which frankly I won't be doing. Now my head hurts. I recommend getting hold of the Ray Rimell Revell upgrade article he did for Scale Models years ago if you haven't bought the KP kit yet. Then you'll have a better idea of the pros and cons. Paul.
  16. Don't think so. The fuselage is indeed narrower, but the problem with strut alignment is that the middle wing span is too great compared to the bottom one. The easiest fix I think is what Torbjorn said - remove material from the middle wing. I'd also gouge out the centre section strut locations on the fuselage a bit so their bases are closer together. I'd expect the upper wing interplane strut locations to then be too far apart, but filling the dimples for them and drilling new ones isn't hard. What I don't know is how accurate the result will be, irrespective of whether or not the struts then look parallel, and how out the ribs will be compared between wings. Probably won't be a problem to the Mark 1 eyeball. At least the struts are all aligned seen in profile. I'll tell you, having just re-read my review to make sure of what I did, I find my style of writing thoroughly confusing, compounded by a memory like a Swiss cheese, which is another good reason I should build another one and write it down straight away before it jojns all my other memories in la-la land. Paul.
  17. I'm sure I can remember being able to count. But it was a long time ago. Alegedly. Anyway, long enough ago that I think I'll give it another go, having bought two of the things at the time. If the experience is significantly different I'll make a quick post - I don't want to be negative as a reflex. Paul.
  18. There's this: But that's 2010. I did read something more recently, probably on The Aerodrome, but have forgetten all pertinent data (I only have so much RAM available). Paul. PS, found a thread on The Aerodrome from last year. Now closed, but has more up to date info. Thread name is The Blue Max Richthofen Triplane.
  19. I replied a few hours ago but it seems to have got lost....so, in short......... There are many far better WW1 modellers in various corners of this forum. I'm just a noisy one. The out of the box finesse of the SE5a is better than the others left-pilers except the Avro, and it'll be okay if you want to put in the work. I wouldn't but that's because I've done it once, then built several Blue Max and Roden kits, which spoils you a bit. Then along came Eduard, which is (despite my love of Roden) by far the best. IIRC there was an early PE set for this one too, but I can't remember if it was Airwaves or Eduard. Probably the former. I'm fairly ignorant of Jennies, but have built the Lindberg kit anyway. It was a fine kit in it's day, and you don't have any other choice in this scale, so just as well. The Windsock Datafile contains all you need to add the missing details. Mine had warped fuselage halves, but that isn't a common problem. Paul.
  20. Mike, The only RE8 kit ever available in 1/48th, I think, was the Aeroclub kit. Emminently buildable, you can occasionally still find it at shows, around £25.00 in the UK pre-pandemic. Also on Ebay now and then, but the sense or nonsense of the price will depend on how alert the sharks are. AFAIK there were two issues, the second with a few of the white metal parts replaced by resin (certainly the prop, which is a 4 blader in 2 parts has an awkward to fix joint between the halves). Paul. Allan, P.S. The only kits in the left pile I'd not bother with are the DH2 (life is too short) and the SE5a. The latter has confused features apart from the simplicity inherent in it's age. All the other oldies there build okay although not that accurate . They look enough like what it says on the box, certainly good enough for testing rigging and painting skills. The Smer and Glencoe kits are also a lot more robust when refining the arcane arts of top-wing mounting and rigging, due to the cruder struts. Improving them is fairly easy, but only really worth it as a learning process. Also, unless you happen to have a handy 3D printer, if you want an Avro 504K, then until you have the proficiency to build Roden kits in your sleep, the ex-Merit kit is your only option except the Blue Max kit. The latter is a good kit, but much more challenging due to the very limited run nature, and needing to make things like struts from the material included. (All Blue Max kits were intended only for the specialist who could already build biplanes and handle limited run issues, and you'd really need to be comfort with what you have in the photo before embarking down that road. The upside is that at their time of release they were the only serious game in town, usually accurate, and possessed very nice surface details). There is or was an Airwaves set for the 504 which is a lot earlier and cruder than what Eduard produce, but helps the Merit kit a lot. Paul.
  21. I happily build bad models if there is no alternative or if it is what I already have. However, having only a finite lifespan, I really appreciate it if someone's considered opinion can save me from making a fresh purchase that I would regret, and when the correction time exceeds what I'd spend on what I already have, or how long I think a scratch build or conversion would take, then doubly so. Criticism of minor issues may get irritating if they don't bother you personally, or if they're being used to bash a manufacturer unreasonably, but what is wrong with calling out major problems? You can choose to ignore them if the errors don't bother you or you disagree about the severity, and no harm done. Meanwhile, the rest of us may be saved a little pocket money we can spend on something else. You don't have to read a negative review if you don't want to. You certainly don't have to ask or tell people to stop discussing it just because you don't want them to. Maybe if puppies were being harmed, but we haven't got to that stage yet. Paul.
  22. Thanks so much for that, best news I've heard in a while. Paul.
×
×
  • Create New...