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Paul Thompson

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Everything posted by Paul Thompson

  1. Codes by Model Alliance are still available from Hannants at £7.80 as throw, Being decals you should be able to get them post free. 3 sorts available, white rounded or squared, and black squared. I've used them in the past and they work ed well. Paul.
  2. There are a few in Scale Scotland, in the Shows section. Paul.
  3. A teensey weeny tip or two if you do an Eduard Roland and want to improve it at all. Not imperative, it's a good kit apart from the wing rib treatment, (but the rolling wave effect was in vogue at the time and is common to all Eduard kits of the period. Looks unnatural if you're finnicky like me, but TBH fine under a coat or two of paint). No, my tip is for something satisfyingly very hard to see once the kit has become a model, and that is to drill out some parts of the internal bulkheads. Any photo easily found on the internet will show how Eduard have (understandably) simplified here, and chain drilling and filing out the structure is good fun if you like that sort of thing. Actually, I lied, it is visible and worth doing, but a bit tedious. The other thing is to check the markings supplied against the details of the fuselage exterior, exhaust type, rollover cabane, and the aileron controls (external pushrods between the wings next to the fuselage). Again, a perfectly good model can result if it doesn't bother you, but if you have the Windsock Datafile then a quick read through will point out what you could improve if you wish. I've forgotten the details since I last built one, but at the time remember finding two or three of the decal options (out of several boxings) needed minor attention. If you can't find or don't fancy forking out for the Datafile (and there's one for many WW1 subjects) an invaluable free source currently still available is the Wingnut Wings website. All the manuals for their kits are online and they show very well what a model should look like both inside and out, with many period photos and colour information that is better than other kit manufacturers efforts. Each type also has an archive of period photos attached. The instruction sheets can be downloaded as PDFs, and I'd suggest doing that because I don't expect they'll be there forever. There's a paucity of Italian and French types, but the more important British and German produced aircraft are catered for. I mention all that simply as something you may find worth doing once you get comfortable with the genre. There's a lot of variation between individual aircraft of a given type, often caught on photos, and with the best will in the world all kit manufacturers have been known to trip up occassionaly, some more than others. Paul.
  4. Eduard Roland C.II, any boxing. No centre section struts and fairly simple rigging. Eduard Fokker D.VIIs. Very little rigging, Revell/Eduard Albatros D.V, Eduard D.III - like the Nieuports the top wing is fairly easy to get on due to the interplane vee struts, plus the centre section struts come as one piece per side. Rigging is fairly simple, comparable to Nieuports- none in the centre section, although you need to juggle a couple of radiator pipes into place. Unfortunately most allied types for which there are good kits have fairly complex rigging, so I'd wait a bit before venturing on to Camels, F2bs, or SE5as. If you can find one the Eduard Hanriots are good. Personally, I really like almost all Roden kits, and they do a lot in 1/48th, but they're much harder to build than Eduard and tend to have bad decals. Some people don't like them, but if you get on okay with the Eduard stuff in my opinion they're a good direction to move in. Once mastered, you'll be able to tackle any of the other kits available. One other slight warning - Copper State Models produce very good kits, but the subjects are not for beginners (Caudron G.IV and AW FK8 for example). They are excellent, but you may be fooled by their presentation into expecting Wingnut Wings ease of construction, and they're not quite there yet (it's a question of moulding tolerances affecting things like mounting of struts in wings - Wingnuts kits are mostly good enough you can get this right without much attention, but Copper State kits fit a bit looser). And the rigging is quite difficult. Good luck,
  5. My fuselage bits were also warped but easy to coaks together, due to the plastic being soft. IIRC I stuck one side to the floor and set the angle with some old credit cards held upright with blue tak, and the parts kept otgether with masking tape from the out side. Revell Contacta on one surface, left a couple of minutes to go off before adding the side panel, does the trick. Then after curing added the other side, and later the top. At least I think that's what I did. I certainly did something similar with the CSM Gotha G.III even further back, and it worked okay then, using epoxy because that kit is resin. Same fuselage construction, but instead of credit cards there were already bulkheads supplied. Wiffle waffle. Whatever. Looking good. Paul.
  6. Someone asked that here a week or two ago. The answer was no (Airfix were asked, and that's what they said). I'd link the thread but don't have time to search for it right now. Paul.
  7. Jun, I had a reply from Ray, and he doesn't know. What's more, he has Harry Woodman's accumulated notes on Voisins, and can't see anything there either. Not for flares, and not landing lights lights is about all he's sure of. The only avenue I can think of to follow is to find out if the bits of wire you can see at the top of each of the 3 columns are toggles, spring clips, or remnants of electrical wiring. Frustrating. Paul.
  8. Oh, well that's interesting anyway. Thanks for making the enquiry. I'll drop a line to Ray Rimell. He may not know what it is, but may well know someone who does. Paul.
  9. Last time I stocked up I got iut from Wonderland Models, which is just across the river from me. At the moment they seem to stock Evergreen, and the thickness is given in mm, but if you click on the picture it gives both impreial and metric. The one thing I stil measure in imperial units is plastic card - early training and all that. Whatever, this link should take you to the 5 thou stuff. Much more expensive than when I last got some, One sick squid less a penny for 3 sheets, then poastage on top. https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/evergreen-plastic-sheet-0005/ I've not looked any further but there must be other places still sell it. Paul.
  10. I confess it's the sort of problem I usually solve by never, ever picking the model up again once it's in the cabinet. Paul.
  11. You could skin the area with a square of 5 thou card, ribs embossed from the inside with an empty biro, and fair it into the existing fuselage stringers with a water soluble filler, clean up with fingers and a damp cotton bud, no sanding, little trauma. Paul.
  12. Mentioned this in other threads, so sorry if you've seen this before, but depending on the nature of the invisible thread you may be able to tighten that up in-situ as you can with stretched sprue, if it bothers you enough. For sprue I use the tip of a scalpel or nail file, heated to glowing in a candle flame, then given 5 seconds to cool. You then gingerly bring it closer and closer to the loose wire until suddenly the wire shrinks a bit and goes taught. I've found you can do the same with invisible thread, but for me it works better using a wider blade than a scalpel as the heat source. Obviously, you don't want to practise on the model, and it will only work if the wire is well glues in at each end or it will pull loose. Too close and the wire will burn through, but with practise that hardly ever happens so long as you move the heat source slowly enough towards it. Anyway, just a thought. Paul.
  13. What puzzles me is why people like Airfix (and Revell) do this with models for publicity shots. It makes them look like ill fitting die-casts,, which I'd have thought would have lost them sales, but no, it seems to fulfill some sort of need. I'm not going to get annoyed by someone doing that to their own model, because it's up to them and so long as they like it then fine, but I do take issue when it becomes something to aspire to, and then people give an otherwise promising new kit a load of grief because it looks bad when treated in a way you don't have to. Oh well, it's just a hobby, each to his own, your mileage may vary etcetera................. Paul.
  14. I also live in Scotland, and believe me the sun can and will do nasties if going through both a window and a cabinet glass panel. Resin models I keep in the garage now (no windows) having had parts warp while sitting on the modelling desk in full sunlight for 20 minutes, but depending on the nature of the plastic they're also affected to a lesser extent. Also the joints can go due to differential heating of plastic, glue and filler. I've not noticed fading of the paintwork so much, but would expect it eventually. As for yellowing, that can happen without the aid of sunlight, and is varnish brand dependant. I have 55 year old models that were finished with Humbrol varnish, and they've spent most of their lives in boxes. All have gone very yellow, the worst offenders being those done with Humbrol gloss varnish. Doesn't mean it will still be a problem though, because those varnishes have been reformulated over the decades more than once............. Paul.
  15. Wot 'e said. I recently built the Airfix and the KP kit, and although the KP would have been fine before the Airfix release, I really prefer the latter. Everything fits on the Airfix kit, with due attention to nub destruction, it has far better decals, covering one of the KP subjects without the errors, and under a coat of primer I find the surface detailing good enough. The only downside is the awful trailing edges of the wings, (there's a;ways something, isn't there?) which really have to be carved out a bit on the inside, but that takes less time than fettling the KP kit to get the cowling section set up straight. Haven't built the other kits mentioned in living memory, but did get a Matchbox kit recently, which is a piece of it's time, and should provide something to relax over and not obsess about and result in a nice object for the back of the cabinet. Paul.
  16. Well, didn't work for me, but maybe it wasn't cold enough.......... Paul.
  17. Plywood is usually right for panels like the nose area on this one, and also large sections of DH4 fuselage, and similar (as well as entire fuselages for German aircraft like Albatrosses). That's a nice job - I bet you were pleased when you found out how much was invisible later (been there, done that). Paul.
  18. What you describe is how I recall the old stuff being, but then it was 50 years ago, and I was using a Stanley knife rather than a scalpel. Anyway, proof of the pudding, I had a box of fresh scalpel blades arrive last week, so time to indulge, I think. Was the choice of poltythene because they were regarded as toys to be played with (as opposed to toys to be built), I wonder? Unfortunate, whatever the reason. I once tried leaving the things in the freezer overnight in the hope they'd stiffen up and be easier to cut. No chance. Just got cold fingers. Paul.
  19. They were always polythene. I still have a fair few from first issue, and they were often as flash ridden as they are now. As I recall, they've always been a right pain to clean up. Which is a shame. In fact I picked up the Vintage Classics boxing of this very set a few weeks ago off Fleabay, and was thinking how much less flash it has than the surviving figures I have, but haven't started trying to clean them up yet. Anyway, I missed this thread until it was revived, so .......................... very nice paintwork. Paul.
  20. PS, you may want to add additional cross bracing - there's some all over the place, including diagonals crossed over the fuselage interior. Tape the panels together so you can peek in and figure out what's worth doing. And an addendum to your colour question, the nose area is plywood so I'd repaint that bit. Paul.
  21. CDL is good. Shade of wooden floor depends on degree of tramping about by the crew. I'd say yours is okay. Longerons and other framework timber more likely a medium shade of reddish brown. Unless I have a photo to the contrary I use something like Humbrol sand, and overcoat it with something translucent and yellow/orange until I'm happy with it. A few minutes browsing the Wingnut Wings site pays dividends. Apart from downloadable manuals for all their kits they still have photos of real aircraft up, and some of those are reproductions from the Vintage Aviator stable. Normally I'd not recommend a repro as evisence of colour, but in these cases they followed original construction and finishing methods, and unless overpainted (like metal tubework on any Fokker) will look almost certainly as the originals did. Ash and spruce were commonly used IIRC (the sort of thing you think you know until you come to type it, so don't just trust my memory). Paul.
  22. To be perfectly honest, although I'd prefer one in 1/48th or 1/72nd, I won't contact them for a couple of reasons. Primarily, with the current situation, I'm amazed they're managing to function at all and don't want to pester them with a 'why don't you do this instead of that?' type of query. After all, they've already conducted market research that they consider sufficient. I'll buy one, anyway, but don't have space or funds for more than one. But secondly, although a new 1/48th 504 would be nice, it isn't high up my list of unkitted WW1 types, because I'm satisfied with the Blue Max kits I have, despite it's flaws. If I didn't have them, it would be different. But I do. If they succeed with their new 1/32nd kits, then I'll certainly be bending their ears with appropriate suggestions. Paul.
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