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Paul Thompson

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Everything posted by Paul Thompson

  1. Castor oil, works wonders by all accounts. It was known as a total loss system, so the oil just flew out with the exhaust - and over and into the pilot. I was happy enough with the engines in the new kit, but find these Brassin examples very tempting. Probably snaffle a Bentley. Paul.
  2. Mike. Very nice. One small point, what you call exhaust collectors aren't, their induction pipes bringing air from the two tubes you see sticking out of the Camel (and any other rotary engined aeroplane) side panels. On various engines they tend to be copper coloured, or black even. I mention it because it's a common misconception that leads to some people painting them burnt metal, as well as going to the trouble of inappropriate exhaust staining from the pokey out bits on the cowling side panels. In case you were wondering, the exhaust comes out of a valve at the end of the cylinder near the inlets, and just spatters out as the mood takes it. Paul.
  3. Thank God! At last someone agrees with me. A small point in the Great Scheme of Things, but drives me mad anyway. Also agree about the utility of metal legs. Brass is usually good, although being tougher is harder to clean up. White metal or pewter, less so, and below a certain thickness (as in WW1 models) worse than plastic. IMHO. Anyway, back to being tempted to build a 1/48th Mitchell..................... Paul.
  4. Dynavector, I think. Still trading, just not making kits anymore, mostly phono cartridges. For a listing of kits, with photos, hidden amongst the non-modelling products, see https://www.dynavector.com/sitemap.html . Paul.
  5. I don't know offhand what the differences are with the G.III, but Choroszy do a whole family of those, very nice and highly detailed but the skid assembly on the one I built was mangled beyond use and needed replacing from scratch - same on the Italian version I built. There used to be versions also available in vac plastic from Blue Rider and Roseplane. I built the latter, which is a nice kit - comes in two versions, one with decals, the other with some vac parts duplicated in resin, both versions with some white metal accesories - extruded material is supplied for the booms but of round section, so should be replaced by square section rod. I've done that with both the Roseplane and Choroszy kits, and it's not as hard as you may think. I think the Blue Rider kit may have PE booms, not sure. Wouldn't be suprised if the G.III was also used on the front. Oh, BTW, the Eastern Express Berg is a repop of the Toko kit - the printed hex decals in that one were, um, err, not the best. I don't know if the repop is better in that respect. Paul.
  6. You just need to be careful with their earlier kits, which were all resin - they seemed to have an A and a B team, some kits being good, some awful. They've also been going a long time, so some of the resins have been superceded by better quality plastic kits from the likes of first Toko, then Roden. I think their plastic kits are very good. Paul.
  7. But no stencils, so doesn't really help. Paul.
  8. Do you really mean SAM? This thread is about SAMI, which is an entirely different magazine (easy enough to confuse, I know). Paul.
  9. The HR Hanriots are only a few years old, injection moulded, and much much better than the elderly Pegasus kit (oof which I have a couple, as well as the Formaplane vac that was your best bet before Pegasus stepped in). Neither Hannants or The Aviation Megastore currently list them though, which suprised me. Paul.
  10. Reviews in Windsock were always favourable regarding accuracy. The ones I have are mostly okay, the Caudron G.III I built had some questionable shapes but that species is a minefield, there being several versions and lots of modifications recorded, so it might be accurate anyway. If money was no object I'd try combining the best of the Joystick (I keep typing 'Phoenix' and having to correct, because that was a similar vac company) ) and Choroszy kits. I had scores of resin kits whose wings either wouldn't straighten or that warped again post construction so even if the detail is not as good I prefer vacform wings. Paul.
  11. If you get one, you need to be careful of the decals - they're just as variable as the plastic so you'll need to test an unwanted image. Get the right boxing and there's also sworl (for which you paint the base colour) decal, which I haven't tried yet so don't know if it works. To be honest I can't remember off the top of my head and have a visitor due now so haven't time to check - all I recall is that it wasn't a deal-breaker with a bit of 'modelling skill'. Phoenix vacs are good for accuracy (usually) and fit well if prepared carefully. If you're new to them I recommend John Adams guide to building them, findable somewhere on this site. In short, all down to accurate sanding, aided massively by first either spraying the top of the plastic or drawing around the join with the backing sheet using (by preference) an indelible marker, so that once you score around the d=edge of the parts and snap them free you have an easilt visible guide as to how far to sand. And also don't do the oft recommended sanding on a flat sheet of sand paper but use sanding sticks and blocks. That way you have much more control. Phonix have many of the hard bits (props, wheel, guns etc) in white metal, and supply extruded aerofoil plastic to make struts from. Aviattic are really good and dedicated to what they do. Paul.
  12. Well, I'm also in Fife, but get around 3 or 4 errors a day. That said, not a problem, just hit F5. Paul.
  13. This is the Toko kit, possibly with better decals depending on which re-issue. Yes, Roden Albatrosses are very good, although the multi-version mouldings mean that more care than usual is needed with assembly. More accurate than anything else you're likely to find. There were also a series of Oeffag Albatros kits from HitKit. Worth it for the decals if found cheap, several boxings, but extremely limited run, and quality control of the plastic wasn't great, so you get a range from quite buildable with a lf care and minor replacement of smaller parts like struts, to lots of short shots and/or the whole sprue entirely embedded in a sea of flash. The PE is very nice but the internal bits are too large to fit the thick-walled fuselage. They can be adapted to use with the Blue rider series of vacform conversions - the latter turn out okay with a lot of work but are left well behind by the Roden kits. They do turn up for reasonable prices at shows and even on Fleabay, in which case they're worth it for the decals. Some editions inluded parts from the Revell D3 that were intended for use with the conversion, some don't. Once upon a time there was a very nice C.A. Atkins metal kit of the Berg D.I - I've only ever found one. Most Italian front types are available from various eastern European resin manufacturers, and virtually all types have been kitted at some time by the better vac producers. For replacement decals, Blue Rider do a generic sheet of Austro Hungarian serials, and specific sheets for the Phonix D.I and II, and various Oeffag Albatrosses. Also sworl camo decals, but since they were designed there have been better attempts by later decal makers. For Allied aircraft of course you're more spoiled for choice, Eduard doing Spad XIIIs and various Nieuports, and the Roden doing Camels and other Nieuports. Mac still does the best Spad VII, but be prepared to thin the trailing edges on all flying surfaces, this being a common feature on most of their kits. The Phonix is good (except the III, which lacks the modifications needed for this version). There are also some good vacs by Joystick, most of which are currently still available from Hannants, although I think they now only have the Phonix D.III . Paul.
  14. Not me but I know people who've built the Model Airways kits. General verdict, a lot more work than you may expect for the price due to some rough prouction in places, but a good result can be got without loss of sanity. Here's a built Albatros D.Va, scroll down the page and click on Hirve (Sanjeev Hirve, a very good modeller): http://www.wwi-models.org/app/sbj/srch/Macn.php?action=uModelList&subjId=28 Paul.
  15. You're absolutely right and I've just put in an order for a pair of new eyes. Ammended score, A for effort, A for execution, and a period on the Naughty Chair for me. OTOH what I did find when I tried to enter a few days ago was that clicking the enter button caused no discernible reaction on screen, so maybe whastever powers it doesn't like Firefox, or maybe it was just a Microsoft Moment. I'll try again today. Paul. ......some time later. And this time entering worked.
  16. Just received an email from Airfix about the Club competition. Prize is the new 1/48th Vampire. Closing date is ........ October 5th. A for effort, Z for execution. Paul.
  17. The Datafile is still available from Albatros, but at £25 a throw. Alternatively, there's 'The Sopwith Dolphin in RFC, RNAS, RAF and Polish Service' from Cross & Cockade in collaboration with the RAF Museum. My copy is from 2012, can't remember the cost, but at 176 pages, very photo and profile heavy, and with several pages of colour photos of the restored example, I prefer it to the Datafile. The downside is that the plans are in 1/48th only, scattered throughout the book. Paul.
  18. By easier I meant plastic is easier to work with than resin, and the CMR kit had two clunky items that are easier to substitute on a plastic kit, i.e. the struts, and the square centre section tubular framework. Paul.
  19. It happened quite a lot, and to be fair Mr Rimell always fessed up once he knew, and TBH they're not the only ones afflicted by the phenomenon. OTOH, once you've established where the distortion is (usually a universal scaling error by the printer) they're pretty accurate, the more so with the later ones, accepted information having changed over time. The KP kit - most if not all their recent WW1 kits seem to owe much DNA to previous releases by other people, often by CMR. Not having one yet, I only suspect the Dolphin will be converted from the CMR kit, but if it is then it should be okay. That one was fine for a resin, and later reissued with decals - perhaps you'll see them appearing more often on Ebay once the KP kit emerges, and it's still worth building, but the KP kit should be easier. Paul.
  20. FWIW the Skytrexes I have are mostly in bags, but one is in a box (Bristol Fighter). Paul.
  21. Quoting from the original announcement: 'Due to many production troubles and mold maintenance issues, the product will be sold in limited quantities worldwide and will not be produced again for a certain period of time afterwards.'. So they've already said there will be more, Paul.
  22. I have a bunch of Skytrex kits, all 1/144 white metal WW1 subjects. Few parts, but definitely (crude) kits, with generic transfers. Never seen subjects from another period by them, but that could just be my particular tunnel vision. Paul.
  23. You don't need to have published them, but you do need to have sent them to an image hosting site, and from there you can get a suitable link to paste into a posting here. If it's been done right you can find out by hitting preview before post and the image will appear with your text. BTW, I built the first issue of the Flycatcher kit and was very impressed (apart from all the fiddly resin pipes for the engine, but that's down to me rushing it too much). Paul.
  24. That's not going to bother the manufacturer, so long as they do sell, so from their point of view it's perfect sense. Paul.
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