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7 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

I have to say I am becoming very partial to Isopon P38 two part car filler.

IIRC from when I've used it on cars, it gets quite hot when it cures.  Does it not warp the plastic?

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28 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

Does it not warp the plastic

Not in the quantities you mix for 1/72. When I was doing large scale in-filling on my Short Empire vac it did get noticeably warm but not hot enough to melt or warp anything.


It doesn't seem as heat resistant as Milliput either so it's not ideal for making vac-form canopy bucks. I believe it has polystyrene as an ingredient, so that may be why it isn't suitable.

 

Regards,

Adrian

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Hmm I have heard of others using it but from my personal perspective it is far too stinky for me to get a free pass when using it.

 

All modelling materials in everyday use have to pass the "Oi what is that evil stink you are making AGAIN?" test which is why even  though it is of less than optimal usage in general modelling I have to use PPP if I can't make rapid progress with Milliput

 

Odour control is King Queen in our house these days.

 

:dalek1:

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13 hours ago, AdrianMF said:

I have to say I am becoming very partial to Isopon P38 two part car filler. You have to get it on quick so there's not much time for modelling it when it's malleable, but it carves and sands like a dream and it sets quickly and reliably.

 

I wonder if carving wax will work well for vacform masters?

 

:wicked:

Adrian

I'm not quite sure, I tried it once...

The silicone tend to warm up when polymerisation is in progress...

Now, if one use dental wax and silicone it will work fine...

But the price if these stuffs is .... Errr.... frightening....

Just like any medical products....

Now that was my experience ...

sincerely.

CC

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4 hours ago, perdu said:

Hmm I have heard of others using it but from my personal perspective it is far too stinky for me to get a free pass when using it.

 

All modelling materials in everyday use have to pass the "Oi what is that evil stink you are making AGAIN?" test which is why even  though it is of less than optimal usage in general modelling I have to use PPP if I can't make rapid progress with Milliput

 

Odour control is King Queen in our house these days.

 

:dalek1:

Huh, I'm not alone in this game.....

Now on a funny note.... I sprayed parts with VMS primer cans....

I do it outside but it still smell a bit when I get it back in the house....

And it sparked some squablings from the Memsah....:rant::rant:

One night SWMBO was using a nail polish remover....

When I get in the room, I used her own words to complain about the smell....

Took the bottle and read the components...

Then I said "Oh, that"s strange, it is the exact same thinner than the one used in my primer can'

Case closed... The argument is judged relevant.....

I should have tried to be lawyer :whistle::whistle:

Sincerely.

CC

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Its nice to see Alain along with us here, mind you I am bebeggared if I know how he keeps up with all those projects on the boil and such a demanding career.

As he has mentioned I know the strains of that job very well..

 

Now I am getting very much happier with the AH-9A, I feel I do now have the essential shape about right and there is nothing much now I do need to fettle with

 

Think?

17113541485518715701817342215014.jpg

 

And

 

17113541789043464635104389431334.jpg

 

I hope someone reminds me to attend to the missing collective...

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This takes me back to the conversion articles that I read in the likes of Airfix Magazine in my youth when Alan W Hall would describe adding a chunk of balsa wood and then blithely say “and carve it to shape…” I was in awe then of the skills of someone who could produce a recognisable shape from a lump of wood, much as I am in awe of the milliput-whittling/filing skills demonstrated here.


Nige

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Nigel never forget my mantra mate, sculpting is no more than releasing the shape from prison.

 

Alan was probably, no definitely the biggest influence on my modelling future back then and I did have the opportunity to tell him about a couple of times when he shared judging with me at Modex83 and 84, Brum IPMS's show.

 

My hero

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Looks great Bill

 

Although I admit I have no idea what it  should look like!

 

Ian

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And at the mo' it looks like this

 

17114416097734995781873647406851.jpg

 

All the impact/trigger points have a few dollops of PPP in them ready for soft sanding the shapes into the relevant places and shapes.

 

I will leave it 'til this afternoon.

 

See me later.

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P1010670.jpg

The story so far:

 

The present site of concern is the green 'hump' visible on top of the twin engine bay just ahead of the tailpipes.

 

I consider getting this wrong has been the reason this phase has taken so long but now, I hope, I am finally getting to grips with it.

 

I know this is an awful photograph of it but so far its the only view I have that covers the bay upper curves at all, let alone well.   

 

You will just have to peer into the grimness of it all.

P1010671.jpg                     

 

It's the kind of Coke bottle curve familiar to all aficionados of seventies automotive design, problem?

 

How to handle it here on a Lynx?

 

I have decided on cruel surgery of the Millicurves to get a recess for the 'coke' to nestle in.

 

P1010672.jpg

 

Yes it is all a bit messy with its PPP all over the shop, but no doubt a decent 'broad uplands' moment awaits soon.

 

Cross 'em please

 

So now we get started on the cleaning...

 

P1010673.jpg

 

 

I'll be back...

 

Adios.

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I/you knew this was coming so I am happy to announce, come it did!

 

17115585359218266759655428076178.jpg

 

So many asked me to just "stay simple stupid" it seemed obvious to me that it was what was needed.

 

So a semishaped infill in he groove was then asked to receive a thin, but not too thin, piece of polycard to flatten the front of the very weird cross section.

 

I believe I will take a ceegar for that, I thanks you kindly, and then a thin skin of filler.

 

Today's selection is from Perfect Plastic Putty, other less feeble substances are available to those of you who are not ME HERE

 

Anyroad up

 

 

At least PPP can be cleaned up with a damp tissue paper as an abrasive...1711559324146935632794473195172.jpg

 

17115594010833195735061869505603.jpg

 

1711559436679526197634920464217.jpg

 

 

 

Yes there is a dangerous type filler around the jet effluxes, I cannot possibly risk THAT twice in one day now can I?

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Slowly

 

 

More changes

 

1711612451335260735206847931585.jpg

 

Jet effluxes removed and UV resin infilled on joiney bits all round

 

What doesn't show yet is that the jetpipes were oval not round, ellipseseses, things, you know what I mean I hope.

 

Ah here comes the sun, my nine diode UV torch has had three of them fail, maybe it will help, pre-sanding time.

 

ciao.

 

 

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I was going to ask about those exhausts, but you've now answered my unasked question.

Looking good Bill!

 

Ian

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Thankee Ian

 

As for the Lynx, the operative phrase now is Consolidation

 

Because the 'hump' is composed of various disparate substances the next necessary thing is to treat those surfaces to make them all respond the same way to abrasion

 

The obvious way to me is to skin the entire hump with cyano-acrylate glue and allow it to harden

17116454002048977962719338637503.jpg

 

And stop stinking of cyano-fumings.

 

17116454361537962291050640791693.jpg

 

It's raining outside so the atmosphere is suitably damp, which of course allows the cyano to cook off quietly in a corner...

 

17116469861316601551439485678044.jpg

 

Next time sandfilepolish!

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