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About LotusArenco

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    3.3 miles from RAF Northolt

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  1. In the car park at work today. Mart
  2. Yes. Recently I’ve only been using my airbrush to paint small wargame miniatures, and I picked up that tip from watching numerous figure painting youtube videos. They seemed to be achieving a much better result in just using the flow improver so I thought I’d give it a go. So far I’ve used it to thin Vallejo model color, model air, game color, Liquitex ink, the newer Humbrol acrylic and Games Workshop acrylics. You do still occasionally get some tip-dry, but nowhere near as much as I used to. Mart
  3. Yep, try that if you’re not already. Vallejo has two additives to thin their acrylics for airbrushing, ‘Airbrush Thinner’ and ‘Airbrush Flow Improver’. Since moving over to using the ‘Flow Improver’ I suffer from hardly any tip block and seems to be quite an improvement over the ‘Thinner’. Mart
  4. I’ve used Xtracrylix and Revell Aqua a fair bit in the past, not so much MM but I’ve used Aeromaster and Polly Scale which I’m told is similar. I wouldn’t go as far to say that they are of a similar formula, unless they’ve changed their formula in recent years, the Xtracrylix I have has about half the viscosity of the Revell, and when dry is nowhere near as hard wearing as the Revell. Mart
  5. I built the Revell 1/72 Hunter as XF442 a number of years ago. I did the undersides in LAG and I hope that I did some sort of research at the time to come to that conclusion! Mart
  6. Any use to you? https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/painting-miniatures-by-danilo-cartacci.52337/ There's a bit about painting faces in oil. Amazon have it as an e-book for a tenner. The PlanetFigure forum also has an oil painting sub forum. https://www.planetfigure.com/forums/oils.210/ https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/painting-faces-with-oils.116177/ Mart
  7. Vallejo has 70.995 down as being RAL7016. I splodged a bit of 995 on a bit of white plasticard and compared it to a RAL colour card. The colour card comes with a glossy finish for the colours, but the Vallejo ‘German Grey’ is fairly close considering it dries with a slightly satin finish. Mart
  8. LotusArenco

    Moving to the UK

    The advent of on-line shopping has made it relatively easy to get hold of most of what you’ll need here in the way of modelling consumables. The sad loss of many model shops over the years in the UK has been more than made up for by the numerous on-line retailers and those few remaining model shops that do mail order. Most of what I’ve ordered on-line has arrived within days, despite the very occasional hiccup, our postal service really isn’t that bad. Don’t just limit yourself to plastic model retailers either, UK railway model suppliers are a good place for tools, paints etc. Model engineering suppliers (like Squires Tools http://www.squirestools.com/catalogues.htm ) are also a great source for tools/knives/glues. For enamels, Model Masters paint is, as you’ve already said, very hard to come by here as well as Tamiya enamels (which are like rocking horse poop in this country!). We are fortunate that we have plenty of home grown paint producers to fill the gap, Humbrol, Sovereign Colourcoats, Hannants Xtracolor, Phoenix Paints etc. Revell enamels are also available. For acrylics, other than Testors/Model Master acrylic (Testors are really missing out sales due to availability over here), virtually any brand can be purchased on-line. Brands like AK can be easily found (on-line) via various UK based suppliers, or you can just order direct from AK. The same goes for most other European based paint manufacturers. I’ve never had to wait for more than a week for orders from the EU. Like them or loath them, Amazon and Ebay are also a surprisingly convenient way to go shopping for modelling bits and bobs. More importantly, by moving to the UK you’ll get to enjoy a much better class of beer than you’re used to! Mart
  9. The fine mesh/fabric ('tulle' fabric comes with a small mesh pattern) stencil is something to consider, but of course assumes that an airbrush is available. You might be able to reproduce the effect with spray cans? I did this to a 1/32 harness off a Messerschmitt, and was reasonably happy with the result. Mart
  10. Yep (well three brushes). A much abused Badger 200G (the older version) which I’ve had for absolutely ages. I use it mainly for priming and varnish as it’s incredibly easy to strip and clean. A cheapo knock off Ebay/Amazon brush ‘Fengda BD-135’ which I bought on a whim, and turned out to be surprisingly good for general airbrushing. And an H&S Infinity for fancy fine stuff (which I really should use more often, as it really is a good all-rounder). Mart
  11. It’s been an age since I last made a ship model. I like to display full hull on wooden bases, and to facilitate this I drill holes in the bottom of the hull before I attach the decking. I’ll epoxy a small nut to reinforce the hole, or build up the area I’m drilling into with some thick scrap plastic sheet. To aid in building I use these same holes to temporarily attach the ship to a scrap of wood a bit bigger than the model. It protects the model during building and acts as a useful way of holding the kit. Mart
  12. Space Marines come in various armour marks, the Primaris are the newest variant. For years* some of us nerdy type Warhammer 40,000 players have commented on the size of the Space Marine figures that Games Workshop produced. They always came up a little short compared to some of the other available alien and humanoid races. Next to a normal human figure these genetically altered 8ft tall ‘Super Soldiers’ didn’t look quite right. The newer Primaris are taller than the ‘classic’ Marines, and not all of us were too happy with Games Workshops design choice (it’s petty, I know, but the older designs are something that I’ve lived with for a long time. it’s a bit like when the new designs for the Mini or the Beetle cars came out). From a sales perspective, Games Workshop introducing a new range of Marine figures was a stroke of genius. The background story for their introduction into the 40K universe also rankled a few of us geeky old timers. The new Primaris figure range is still fairly new, give it a few years to flesh out a bit and it’ll probably grow on me. I do have some, and will paint them up eventually, but I’ll still be looking down my nose at them. As for the Bandai figure, I’m deeply impressed. The thought of Games Workshop working with Bandai is not something I ever thought I’d see. I’ll definitely be buying some of those! (even if it’s a Primaris ) Mart *since the late ‘80s in my case.
  13. Hello Mate. Most of us are grown-ups who still play with plastic toy aeroplanes, I don’t think ‘common sense’ really comes into it! I too use bits ‘n bobs from Poundland. I picked up a few of their ‘Tommy Walsh’ superglue packs a couple of years ago, and have been using it ever since. I’ve found it just as good as any other superglue I’ve owned in the past. Their car spray I’ve found to be quite good, I used it here: LINK to undercoat some bases for wargame figures. It is, as Mike said ‘hotter’ than other primers I’ve used, so go easy and test it on a bit of spare plastic first before committing it to your model. It’s not as good as something like ‘Tamiya Surface Primer’ (which is my go-to spray can primer), but you can’t complain about the price. The best things I’ve found to buy in Poundland are the many flashing battery or solar powered LED lights they have, especially around Halloween and Christmas. They are great for pulling apart and being re-purposed for modelling use (If you’re into that sort of thing!). Mart
  14. Nope! I’ve absolutely not seen tons of Orky stuff in this Imperial Sector recently; I believe they’re all on the planet Vigilus on a massive Speedwaaagh! Being led by Krooldakka. Neither have I spent what little modelling time I have sticking together and converting lots of the little buggers! Mart
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