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LotusArenco

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About LotusArenco

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  1. I’ve done it with the blunt end of a drill bit (1.5mm?) to push out the old one and a cocktail stick to push in the new one. There’s probably a ‘how-to’ online somewhere, or better still, here’s a post from on here: Mart
  2. I’ve stripped acrylic painted plastic wargame figures many times over the years, painted with various brands of acrylics. If you can stand the smell, old fashioned neat brown Dettol works wonders (but make sure to wear gloves when handling). Past couple of years I’ve started using IPA, which if anything works even better than Dettol. (https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235039981-space-marines/&tab=comments#comment-3069470 scroll down a bit, there's an example of the effects of using IPA) Never tried it myself, but you can get ‘original formula’ Windex off of Amazon and ebay, but if it’s for the ammonia content it might be easier to go to the chemist/Robert Dyas/Homebase etc. and just buy a bottle of pure ammonia. Mart
  3. Hold your horses there! A Teflon needle bearing will set you back £3-90 from Barwells. https://barwellbodyworks-shop.com/gb/105-patriot/657-50-046-needle-bearing.html I’ve got a Badger 200 that’s well over 20 years old, admittedly it’s a bit like ‘Trigger’s broom’, but it still serves me well. Mart
  4. How did it work out for you, any good? I picked up the cheaper version (£10) of this yesterday. Consisting of an unbranded 555 5-12V motor, a chuck and a bracket. Screwed down to an old bit of MDF and wired up to my mini drill speed controller with banana plugs and croc clips. So far so good, I’ve turned a few bits of plastic tubing to shape for my current project, and I’ll ‘wallace and gromit’ a few add-ons so I can add a sanding disc and a cutting wheel. Not too bad for a tenner. Mart
  5. Now up for pre-order. £75. https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Bandai-Space-Marine-2019 Mart
  6. Apologies, I shouldn’t have used making a wash with gouache as an example. Gouache is one of the most opaque water colour type paints available and can be reworked back into a liquid form after it dries, much like kids poster paint or that nasty distemper they used to paint ceilings with. (Isn’t distemper what they used to winter camo tanks?). Artists quality gouache is highly and finely pigmented and you should be able to thin it down to shoot through an airbrush, once dry I’d imagine you’ll be able to spritz it with water to get the weathered whitewash appearance you’re after. As I said, never tried it myself, but I’m thinking that gouache will act in small scale very much like its full scale whitewash counterpart. Mart
  7. How about something like designers gouache? Never tried it myself as a whitewash, but I do use it in my homebrew panel line washes. Mart
  8. My go-to place for sheet styrene and other modelling bits and bobs is the 4D Model Shop, but I see that you’re across the pond so you may be better off looking for somewhere more local. Carbon fibre rod is used in scale radio control aircraft, I’m sure you’ll have somewhere supplying the RC fraternity closer to home? http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Strip-Shape/Circular-Rod/Carbon-fibre/Item/Carbon-fibre-rod/ITM3557 Edit: This place even has 0.28mm, so smaller sizes are available. https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/cured-carbon-fibre-products/carbon-fibre-rod Mart
  9. I usually use brass or copper rod and tubes for my in-flight models. Mainly just because I like the look of them, and as I can’t hide them or make them invisible, I just polish them up and make a feature of them. For what you’re after wouldn’t something like carbon fibre rods work? You can get it in 1 or 2mm and even down to 0.5mm. Mart
  10. Yes. Recently I’ve only been using my airbrush to paint small wargame miniatures, and I picked up that tip from watching numerous figure painting youtube videos. They seemed to be achieving a much better result in just using the flow improver so I thought I’d give it a go. So far I’ve used it to thin Vallejo model color, model air, game color, Liquitex ink, the newer Humbrol acrylic and Games Workshop acrylics. You do still occasionally get some tip-dry, but nowhere near as much as I used to. Mart
  11. Yep, try that if you’re not already. Vallejo has two additives to thin their acrylics for airbrushing, ‘Airbrush Thinner’ and ‘Airbrush Flow Improver’. Since moving over to using the ‘Flow Improver’ I suffer from hardly any tip block and seems to be quite an improvement over the ‘Thinner’. Mart
  12. I’ve used Xtracrylix and Revell Aqua a fair bit in the past, not so much MM but I’ve used Aeromaster and Polly Scale which I’m told is similar. I wouldn’t go as far to say that they are of a similar formula, unless they’ve changed their formula in recent years, the Xtracrylix I have has about half the viscosity of the Revell, and when dry is nowhere near as hard wearing as the Revell. Mart
  13. I built the Revell 1/72 Hunter as XF442 a number of years ago. I did the undersides in LAG and I hope that I did some sort of research at the time to come to that conclusion! Mart
  14. Any use to you? https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/painting-miniatures-by-danilo-cartacci.52337/ There's a bit about painting faces in oil. Amazon have it as an e-book for a tenner. The PlanetFigure forum also has an oil painting sub forum. https://www.planetfigure.com/forums/oils.210/ https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/painting-faces-with-oils.116177/ Mart
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