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About Merlin

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  1. Hi, I think you have captured the look of the upper cowling and rad very well, perhaps my photos also assist . As such was the kit needing minor tweaks there or major surgery ? Did it come with the taller radiator and correct grille on it ? The straight top with just radisued corners as per my pics you have got, is that your handiwork or very much as kitted ? I see I have the Hasegawa Ju87B/R with skis, according to my database, somewhere deep in my stashe of kits, not sure if it also comes with normal U/C or if I was hoping to add such from elsewhere. Did they bring your kit out later or at the same time as mine ? The thought of panel lines in keeping with scale and not trenches is appealing, from what I see from your photos it loks a real nice kit, also the fact that at the moment my Airfix B2 isnt a B2 having been kitted with a B1 upper cowl , shallow rad and scoops all wrong for a B2 ,unless it is a boxing error means to make a B2 its going to have to be Hasegawa. Merlin
  2. Hi Tail-Dragon, Good to know, sounds like a nice kit, Does the cowling shape over the top of the upper radiator follow the B2 shape or B1 shape as per my pics ? Tip. almost all RLM model paints for 70 71 65 are wrong colours, Sovereign Paints are matched to Merrick/Kiroff (the rlm65 is bang on, yet to paint out the 70 71 but based on accuracy of 65 I am confident) the only model paint that is correct for rlm65, rest are way out, so finish the kit correctly with Sovereign ! Not sure Sovereign sell to canada though, contact them and find out, else colour match your own to Merrick charts. Merlin
  3. Hi, What sprue (see number on its sprue) do you Airfix 1/48 B-2 owners have for the upper cowling ? If it has on it ATML-00444 FRAME E then thats a B-1 upper cowling, incorrect for a B2. differences between B1 and B2 cowling are as here, the image is bigget than the forum has shrunk it to, you might be able to open it into photoshopp etc :- we see for the B1 less length for the flat straight portion which becomes a large radius curve then a second radius curve kicks in, as shown in the far left image, whilst the B2 has a wide straight line top and a small single radius at either end. Face of B2 radiator has different structure/features, thre unevenly distributed stiffeners compared to twice as many (and evenly distributed) on the B1. see head on shots lower right. Its a deeper radiator and so to allow the fwd scoop to feed it air the fwd scoop is deeper thus a different intersection with the cowling sides. (as cowling top aft of rad is same as B1) As such it would appear to go nearer to the intake 'reverse D' vent on the B2 if the pic with the yellow cowl is compared the B1 above it (dented spinner) Regards Merlin
  4. Hi, Thanks, another useful link and guide there, pity the last two links at the last page are dead. Asking folk recently why use acrylics with all the extra hassle involved of having to paint layer by layer the contours to represent the blending as opposed to simply swirl and mix from highlight to midtone and midtone to shadow using oils, I was told its easier to buy the colour in a pot rather than have to mix it with tubes called burnt sienna, paynes grey etc as opposed to buying Vallejo Wehrmacht green or GI brown. As such thats folk not knowing the basics of colour mixing, but they are also after repeatability when with oils one has to attempt to mix that shade every time. All it needs is a means of saving the oil mix to be used again and again, but no one does mini containers airtight, small enough to put a mix into, something like 5mm dia x 10mm tall with a means of excluding air at the top. That would then just require the scooping up and trying to get the paint into the pot, also not easy. Another method was lots of minute dots as if printed which when viewed at distance looks like a blend, all because acrylics dry and dont blend easily, the base layer midtone not remaining wet enough and if it was wet there is the chance of the applied highlight dissolving wider than required, whilst oils remain wet and dont 'auto blend'. Add retarders but no 3 days workability , correct me if I am wrong, and a chance of never drying. Merlin
  5. Hi, Thanks Jamie, I will look to see what Uschi do, trouble is I have some objects that need trapping between a number of strands and any stretch wont keep them aligned as intended, and using nylon for those and stretchy for others wont see a match in the sizes and appearance. It will have to be nylon for all on one model and uschi for all on another. Glad there is an alternative to twisty look for EZline. TallBlondJohn, trouble with pairs is going from a flimsy stern mast to centre mast, there is no way of pulling sternmast aft, ditto bow mast. Merlin
  6. Hi, Will a moisture trap also stop oil from entering hose ? How can one check for oil in a hose ? Merlin
  7. Hi, the kicker and CA was a method told to me by a modeller who appears to have a tame spider. Thing is as soon as the ca meets kicker bang ca sets so if trying to get end of line into hole unless one is VERY QUICK in the 'docking procedure' it could set on the outer portion of the hole, as opposed to being fully 'in there', CA even seems to set if it smells kicker let alone if it touches wet kicker, if it sets up without it and doesnt mind slight hand tremble (racing against clock) on line all is well and good. I will drill fine hole in rod/mast/pole in deck but not sure if trying to be clever and also drill hole in mast top for other end is good as that means cutting line to exact length, dont think thats possible. it will have to pass to one side of the mast head under the end cap. the twangy stuff is ok but can have a twisted ribbon effect as its not circular in section from looking at EZ line. Is Uschi circular ? I fancy grey for steel as opposed to black, so a marker pen run along the line is an idea. I might also roughen up the line end a tad for ca grip. Merlin
  8. Hi, using monofilament thread 0.1mm going from a pole on the deck up to mast, What is the best method ? drill a hole in pole to accept end of thread seems a good start, then what? zip kick in hole and s/glue on line or ca in hole and zipkick on line, will it even stay there long enough for line into hole ? which s/glue gap filler or runny like water or gel ? Then at mast is it s/glue on mast and touch line to that then with the unfamiliar hand touch zipkick preloaded brush to mast ? and what about using rigging thread, what method then ?..thinks...it absorbs the zipkick or s/glue so a different technique ? maybe presoak tip and zipkick it, then it cant soak up sglue or zipkick. (zipkick is my s'glue accelerator by the way) Merlin
  9. Thanks, I have the 560 I see, also gator grip, but seeing a deluxe materials canopy glue applied that to both surfaces and brought them together needing a bit of adjustment, so hope that does, not sure if bond is as strong as 560 or if slight movement is good when its not dried, but it was essential to have slight adjustment properties. It has 8 hrs to set before I need to handle it given time limits now. Merlin
  10. Hi, turret as on anson or oxford or larger still the lancaster, two halves of glazing, just what glue should be used for a strong joint without harming the glazing ? deluxe canopy glue or standard poly cement in a jar, or what ? One can google join aircraft turret halves together and find nothing. Really could do with an easy to search on listing of tasks and best method. we buy all these modelling books but knowing which one has this in it, and where in the book, also where is the book etc, Take hours to find it, and thats not an option when racing against the clock, the internet is the quick go to, yet sometimes the answers to such a search are so unrelated. Merlin
  11. Hi, Jamie, yes thats my fear, so think, being now in a hurry here, hand paint with acrylic, edit the edges with chisel ended cocktail stick or similar, acrylic doesnt bond as enamels do, meaning that edit can be done, but is fragile in handling and for mask removel scary and more, but I have the colour ready to use, no time to go colour matching in enamels and cutting masks. 1/72 anson turret too curvy maybe for decals, and the acrylic would no doubt scag when cut. no primer straight on with a grey camo colour in time left now. I bet the BoB hurri pilots suffered from glare when the sun bounced off silver glazing frames ! Merlin
  12. Hi, in summary I need primer for turrets and mr surfacer 1200 is wrong colour. As acrylics need a primer I am wondering what to use that is the right interior colour for the framing, such as RAF interior grey green, or black for bomber command turrets etc. I like the ability to edit the edges with cocktail stick when using acrylics such as Vallejo, I dont want to be trying to colour match the Vallejo in enamels. I do want to paint the clear parts with acrylics, using the same Vallejo as on the camo. the paint must be able to be hand brushed on. Tamiya and GS out of the equation as such. So actually the primer doesnt need to say so on the tin, other substances would do, so, I can use a varnish or enamel. If I am to mask the canopies and turrets then spraying varnish would work, if hand painting frames then I cant see where the varnish is, and could end up spoiling the glazed areas. Black matt enamel would work but editing the edge with cocktail stick wouldnt. For hand painting I am still not sure of a solution. Merlin
  13. Hi, Easy reference quick start guide to thinning and spraying varnishes. Prompted by the fact that I am about to spray Humbrol satin cote with no idea what ratio, thinners, psi etc etc will work., and with failure of Alclad ll to go satin this time compared to last time... I wish to create a thread, that may become pinned if useful, where modellers can list what thinners and thinner ratio, psi, nozzle, distance they find did a nice job, so saving hours spent experimenting, especially if armed with a variety of varnishes and thinners, it will become days, and when trying to get something built for a deadline we want to reach for something that others find works for them, as a start point at least. Instant help and be up and running, time spent spraying one's model not figuring out what went wrong. Please populate the list with the details headed. I have added temp and humidity as these seem to play a major role on frosting or finish achieved. If you wish to say how many passes single or double and if 'wet' feel free. Varnish(make and title) thinner Make ratio of thinners as % added psi (when air flowing) distance temperature humidity Merlin
  14. Hi, Rustins Driers...worth noting, but I like enamels as they dont dry on needle and make airbrushing hell, as acrylics do,... maybe a bit might stop varnishes remaining tacky, this is tacky several months later, thats not right at all. It was sprayed over Galeria satin varnish 4 months after the Galeria went on.)and went matt !) It dries ok, this time, unable to alter whats already down now from 7 months ago, just stuck with it in more ways than one !, current problem is semi matt has gone 3/4 matt, now to try and fix, it, try overspray with something that might go satin such as humbrol satin cote,then i wonder what thinner ratio, using humbrol thinner. wish these manufacturers would put a recommended thinner ration psi and nozzle and distance on pots, there is usually NOTHING to aid us. Merlin
  15. one has to make a decision, water based or smelly acrylic or enamel varnish over Alclad ll failed semi matt, what is safest ? basic principles here, its probably still 'live'., 16 hrs not enough cure time, but must move on no time to wait a week, show awaits. Am I right in saying its enamel based so maybe humbrol satin cote best ? its a sad state of affairs that we modellers havent a dependable varnish yet. Merlin
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