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Merlin

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About Merlin

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  1. Hi, small gap to fill 0.5mm x 1cm for example, in a 90 degree curving bend, so a swine to get into and rub down flush afterwards. Milliput my fav filler but the fiddling around getting sticks out, cutting off equal portions, kneading them together, putting sticks back to box sealings ends over etc, then rolling into fine sausage, then cutting and applying with filler tool, wetting and refining, removing excess, more refining, then wait 30 mins or more to set solid, usually an hour I allow. I need something out of a tube or pot I can lay into that gap, smooth into place with wettened cloth, or finger, edges get feathered during that process, minimal rubbing down afterwards, job done. Nothing that will try and stick to tool as its being applied. Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty washes away with water after its cured, so forget that. Any suggestions ? Merlin
  2. I am wanting it for plastic card primarily, 99% of times I am cutting discs of plastic card. In my other thread in scratchbuilding on how does one remove the discs from the plastic card,,there is posted now a link to a cutter plotter, that is some bit of kit !!! Lotus, thanks, another idea, if I can get the point as sharp as a blade. Honing stone etc. Merlin
  3. Merlin

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    Gloss. after all this time. poor Michael was v upset at the original chart being gloss. Why with this reprint is it still gloss, are they trying to give him a heart attack ? One cannot judge the colours if its gloss, are we supposed to satin varnish it to get the correct colours, (beware acrylics that look like milk, they make black go grey) as its no use if gloss. or yet again are we looking at the correct colour as it stands, has someone established a gloss mix to show the Luft colour, so if masked off with grey card and compared to Merrick, would it match, (assumes both colours are same). Just damned confusing though, why oh why do that ? All serious Luft colour chip charts are in Luft satin finish. I am gutted. Merlin
  4. Hi, Thank you so very much for that link. Took me a moment to realise what that was about, blimey, strewth, wow !! just look at that railway building roof edge valance against the mm ruler. and the thin plastic strips , bridge, etc. I will study that more. I can cut perfect circles, its the getting them out of the card. I see that PC cutter can accomodate thickness up to 40 thou at most, and above 115thou needs petal snapping out etc, or whatever method posters will come forth with. That would be awesome also for decal masks, canopy masks etc. Merlin
  5. Hi Gorby, simple, I like the nylon tie ! PRECISE radius adjustment. Ability to replace the blade. Does the blade want to creep upwards with pressure ? moving the scalpel a mm or so upwards would see the end of the slot abutt the rod there and stop that chance. maybe a threaded hole in the arm and a bolt to replace the cable tie might be a refinement, as long as arms can shut down to achieve 3mm. That wins over the two above in the precise adjustment department and if it does 3mm that also wins though its tricky doing small circles with a hand compass. Merlin
  6. Hi Lotus. Anything based on the Olfa design I will reject, I will run screaming off to the horizon, unless its metal, well built with the ability to turn a knob or dial and make precise adjustment to the radius and there is zero play in it when being worked. Also that it can do very small diameters like 3mm. Thank you for the link to the DSPIAE stepless circle cutter, totally different concept, its metal, its got a rail, non slip back, looks well made, a precision instrument, just the thought of this....oh bliss. respect for our skills by someone ! Someone has given the task great thought and realised it needs a different approach to the compass method. Not sure how pressure is obtained on the blade, unless its spring loaded . Thats a start., in fact it well could be the end of my quest. update...watched the only video of this on youtube, wobbly adjustment of radius, chap ham fisted maybe, such a precise device needs a geared edge here as maybe we are back to slight change and cant get the radius value required when requiring 0.1mm or 0.2mm accuracy. and he only cuts masking tape. Another review of one by thinnerline makes a complete hash of cutting plastic card, the blade pressure adjustment looks wobbly and so on, youtube usage of these is a bit worrying. DSPIAE appears maybe the better build, three blades not two, but the radius setting and blade holding and pressure controls are same it seems as the other poorer one, seems lacking in the critical controls. Need to find a metal compass option with radius adjustment wheel as an 'opponent' to this for the decision process, though the DSPIAE can do down to 1mm and its design will allow easy making of such, try doing that with a standard compass. Maybe thats it for me right there Cheers Merlin
  7. Merlin

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    That is EXCELLENT NEWS. I had asked some time ago but never got a reply. From copious testing I had established that Humbrols recent Luft range, 02 was very close indeed to Merrick, Phoenix Precision Paints had the only nearest matches to his 70 and 71, all other makes tested were near at best, some though very wide of the mark. I think I painted out my WEM 70 71 65 and 02 but need to check. I know a friend who asked which enamel range for Luftwaffe, now I can tell him. No model paint for RLM I tested had got rlm65 as per Merrick, they all feature the hint of green as per Eagle chart. Just to get my hands on RLM65 as per Merrick 1938 chart will be FANTASTIC. Which of the Merrick charts are they matched to ? I model early war period so use the Vol 1 book chart Ausgabe 1938 and Vol ll book Sonderdruck aus L.Dv. 521/1 and I see 70 71 65 and 02 also feature on the 1941 Tafel 5 chart as well, RLM65 on the 1938 chart is a tad less 'vibrant' but all are lacking the green nature of all model paints attempt at 65. Undersurfaces I read were treated to a protective varnish which might have accounted for the greenish nature ? Merricks being pre varnish, and the others based on wreckage etc ? I have wreckage and rubbing through the apparent greenish blue it reveals the Merrick blue, which would have been Me109E sides for example., without the varnish. I need to find again where I read about the varnish. I also by the way have a copy of the original formulation removed from Germany after WW2. Well done Merrick for recreating it with every ingredient as opposed to others who went part way. Modellers consider the Luftwaffe got it wrong, and that 70/71 should have a higher contrast. I cannot understand them, they are not observant, do not have a Luft colour chart, grab a paint range and go with it. No deep desire to replicate WW2 , some dont even look at pic of the aircraft, and allow the kit errors to exist in their model. Then will argue that paints varied anyway, to justify their lack of 'interest and observation' and maybe laziness if not also to support their faith in paint manufacturers research and their paint mixers care and attention. I am seeing Ju87B in what looks like RLM71/02 there is no excuse. I think they used Gunze Sanyo by the way. Ullmann book I had upon its release, Michael was livid that the charts had been produced in high gloss, I never knew if the gloss colour in fact showed the colour correctly and matting it down would lighten it, or matting it down would then provide the colour as intended by him. I presume he had supplied the colour as satin and they managed to darken them with gloss, or was it that they matched the colour in gloss, do you see what I mean ? Do we get the correction charts of 70 71 etc free if we have the original book does anyone know ? is this £7.99 chart in gloss or satin now ? Merlin
  8. Merlin

    Which is best Airfix or Italeri Ju87 B2 1/48 ?

    I now have both new Airfix kits, as well as the Hasegawa ! I could see Airfix had maybe been to the USA looking at the upper cowling on the B1. Discovered at home though that the Airfix B1 and B2 1/48 have same sprue in both boxes for upper part of Cowling which isnt right as there is a big difference there in the shape of the scoop, cowling top fwd of radiator and height of radiator. B2 taller rad, with different surface details, and consequently the cowling fwd of it has been lowered, the port fairing also differs as a result. I see no reviews yet of the two kits and a study of the real thing. Hasegawa kit has lovely panel lines unlike yet again somewhat trenchlike Airfix which spoil the two kits. Unsure how to fill these, damned nuisance. If the Japanese can do panel lines why cant Airfix, it is 2018 after all. Matchbox got ribbed over it way back. I think Airfix are nearer reality with the scoop shape than Hasegawa but that area is darned difficult to suss without more photos, no one thought to aim camera at it in WW2. USA with theirs hung up dont help, . Hung up aircraft are useless for research, may as well be fibreglass. USA have lowered theirs down for an inspection now etc, If Airfix did visit the USA, why put a B1 upper radiator cowling and rad in a B2 kit, unless its a boxing mistake. Has anyone a B2 kit with B1 sprue ATML 00444 Frame E or a different cowling ? What sprue fret number is your B2 upper cowl. The B1 fret in my B2 kitbox also features the B1 metal bladed propeller as well. Merlin
  9. Hi, Just wondering if there is a better way of creating plastic discs of a non standard diameter (circle template etc not suitable) I have posted a request for a quality metal circle cutter with fine adjustment of radius by central wheel between arms or maybe beyond one arm. Armed with a quality device, there is then the question of how does one get the part cut disc on 40 thou or 60 thou or 80 thou out of the sheet, as at these thicknesses one cannot cut through easily, even 30 thou I dont plan on 'cutting through'. Method 1, (my only method in fact) make a few turns of the compass blade, then cut the circle out of the sheet with 5mm or more plastic around the circle. Cut off any corners to equalise the lengths of the about to be cut 'petals'. Cut 'petals' from the circle outwards with one strong stroke, on an imaginary line from circle centre outwards, repeat again and again, spacing the lines so as not to expect the break (in our next phase) on the circle line to have to go in a curve. narrower the petals, better the resulting edge. Break the petals apart with a folding then twisting action, then work around the circle bending petals off at the circle cut. Despite keeping the petal widths as small as we dare, the resulting circle edge will have a rough nature to it, then take a file and knock these 'corners' where the petal edges were, off, working around the card as if card is wheel and file the road ! It will be as perfect a circle as ones petal widths and file work allow. Edge of the disc though isnt perfect perpendicular to surface and can see underhangs etc. How does one improve on this method ? If plastic card could be mounted in a lathe and a blade adjusted with lathe controls, would give the precision, and could refine the edge. Mounting the card in a lathe, any ideas ? After the petal method, ensuring the disc is a bit oversized, mount the disc and lathe the edge good, sandpaper or file etc. How though could a plastic disc be mounted in the lathe ...if centre must not be harmed except for the needle indent ? Any other ideas ? Merlin
  10. Hi, Forget all the olfa and similar types plastic based sliding system circle cutters where user loosens a brass knob and slides to a different diameter, one second its too small by 0.5mm then its too big, back and forth one goes, nudging the darn thing, even when locked there is movement and it will produce something different than thought. I even find the olfa doesnt get back to where it started sometimes, any pressure and the radius changes ! One can see the radius move too much even as the brass knob is loosened. We precision modellers deserve a better tool. I need a precision instrument, turn the wheel between the arms a few degrees, to micro adjust the radius, and it stays put, if well made and a perfect fit between screw thread and socket, it wont move, or so I hope. Better still a locking system. Any one found a source of such, as googling compass cutter precise metal throws up red and yellow plastic things. Modelling at times needs precision and the manufacturers out there are aiming these plastic things at the lower end of the hobby. I need to cut a circle and fit it into a tube end for example. Its for plastic card and precision scratch building and modification and not decal cutting. Making a decal where 0.2 of a mm here or there might not matter so much. Cheers Merlin
  11. Merlin

    Resizing of parts

    You will need to get the parts scanned, jewellery scanner quality probably , then scaled and 3D printed. you could try for a software that works with photos, take overlapping shots of a textured object, so have to spray it with a splatter tip on the airbrush maybe. or toothbush flick paint ! refine the result then send to a 3D printer. again jewellery calibre 3D printing services are what you need. If you are willing to pay good money then PM me I have contacts on the required printing and scanning as well as and methods on shape capture I am experimenting with. I also am CAD capable. Merlin
  12. Merlin

    Casting rubber tyres

    Alec Tirranti sell black rubbery casting (for positives) solutions, not sure how hard they are. If you are after scale effect bulge maybe even consider an easter egg making approach of slosh it around inside and pour out approach, then repeat, until thickness suits the weight. Let us know how it goes. Merlin
  13. Merlin

    Release Agent & Removal

    I also would like to know. Merlin
  14. Merlin

    Which is best Airfix or Italeri Ju87 B2 1/48 ?

    Hi, has no photos and thread only makes mention of whats in the photos. Italeri has spinner and canopy issues. Revell the reviewer made no comparison to reality or plans, . Old Airfix, not sure the finesse I am after is there. fin issues maybe, and Airfix have brought out new so clearly not happy with their past work. Hoping that in 2018 there would be a decent 1/48 Ju87B. Nothing so far I can a grip on here. Hasegawa, will google see what I can find. Has no one hands on knowledge of how Airfix new B2 compares to WW2 pics of the chin and upper intakes, canopy shape, spinner etc etc ? Cant use B1 as those areas are different. is there a review anywhere that looks at the actual shape as opposed to counting number of parts the sprues have got etc and ploughing through instruction sheets. Cheers Merlin
  15. Hi, Considering finesse, i.e not overscale detail, scale panel lines, as well and importantly accuracy of shape compared to plans and WW2 photos, which is the best 1/48 Ju87B2 kit, the recent Airfix or bit older Italeri ? As Airfix tend to use trench lines and lose the realistic appearance, I am erring towards Italeri before even comparing/buying but how do they both stack up to close scrutiny ? Interested to know how they compare on spinner shape, canopy optical quality , distortion, haze, and shape, ....upper intake scoop compared to photos, Propeller shape, wheel spats, surface detail as the Ju87 does feature some raised rivets on wings, tyre tread treatment, overall shapes and so on. Cheers Merlin
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