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About Merlin

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  1. Hi, the book I saw but discovered he uses acrylics. AK book also I see acrylic pots. For a step by step well illustrated face in oils I still havent found anything, its most bizarre. Oils give far better results in the hands of a mediocre average modeller yet they choose acrylics and consequently tide marks as they lack the extra skills required to try and blend materials not suitable for blending without a lot of hard work and speed given the drying time of acrylics. Merlin
  2. Correct. If I cut decal sheet transparent into strips the width of the canopy framing, I would have to expect the strip to lift clear of the remainder and take with it the interior frame colour and the outer frame colour, a few layers of paint sprayed on for interior followed when dry by exterior will not see that decal strip lift clear and a perfect edge of paint come with it, imagine it, the paint I have applied will cover the cut line and go onto the decal either side of the strip, why should the paint break free perfectly along that cut line when I lift the decal ? If I score back along the line I need to follow exactly the original cut which is a failure waiting to happen and it might not score without some difficulty, maybe the paint drags or scags... Then I have this not so flexible strip of decal to try and fight into place over a compound curve, as my turret is domed like an Avro Anson. so decal solution but I want to be able to manoeuvre the strip and my use of microsol and set saw a decal take hold and not want to move. Klear painted on is better but can be a sticky mess at the edges when wicked away with cotton bud. at 1/72 scale an avro anson canopy is a lot of small glazing panels. My idea dispensed with all those potential dangers. If I can lay on the masking tape which will be just tape thickness, no paint to lessen its bend, no need for decal solvents and whetever they might do to the glazing, over the frames, spray between with the requested water soluble liquid, lift masking off, spray interior then exterior colour, cure, wash off the water soluble, seems easy peasy, the simplest way of all, to me anyway. No compound curves to fight decal strips onto, no masking off many little panels. no worry about paint not staying perfect on a strip of decal, no worries about painted decal pulling away with paint perfect along its edges from remainder of decal sheets. all those snags dont exist. Involves laying down one strip per frame not two, no maskol or kamoi cut and placed in between, time saved . Where in this process is there a tricky stage ? I reckon its a very good idea in fact. I need to try the AMMO washables. do a test piece. In modelling there are moments a new method is born, and we wonder why we didnt have that or do that before, this may be it. I dont expect the adhesive on the tape to remain as good as the day it was made over time, also the compound curve will see the edges lift a bit. painting masking fluid as perfect straight lines is VERY DIFFICULT, far easier to lay down strips of masking tape, spray the water sol paint, and peel off the tape. Merlin
  3. Hi, hours and hours of searching, cannot find a decent well illustrated CLOSE UP step by step of a head/face being painted showing how it progresses, the end result being a real classy piece of work. Using the classic method of mixing flesh using white, yellow, red and blue. All google turns up is acrylics. Its as if no one has ever done a quality step by step, also showing use on garment etc, . Merlin
  4. Hi, wondering if I could paint an awkward gun turret for which there are no pre-cut masks and its a compound curve for all of its shape, by cutting masking kamoi strips, or use the white tamiya stuff for curves, lay that where the bars are, spray the 'paint X' peel away my strips to now have a sprayed on mask. Spray it with enamels. when cured simply apply water and watch the water based 'paint X' flow away, leaving my frames . so what 'paint X' could I use that would spray then resist penetration of enamels else they would fog the glazing, then wash away without harming the glazing ? Merlin
  5. Hi, I was just after the math , yes if matt 0 and gloss 10 then satin as in 5 would be 50/50 but if my bottle of semi matte is 4 and gloss is 10 it was what ratio of gloss to the semi matt do I add to get 5/10 I reckon the math is 1 unit progression out of a scale of 10 is 0.1 so if using 10 ml of semi matte that is 10ml x 0.1 = 1ml so add 1ml gloss to 10ml semi matte to get it to move from 4/10 to 5/10 Am I right ? and light sheen might be it though if semi matte is 4/10 then I would expect another product light sheen would have a couple of steps diffference and probably be 6/10. I also discovered a couple of WET coats managed to get the semi matte to 6/10 so being heavy handed and also climate on the day plays a part. alclad ll semi matte can vary a bit depending on number of coats, and type of coats. Its a lovely varnish and doesnt orange peel, dries very quick. my choice at the moment. Merlin
  6. Hi, White spirit, triple refined is the stuff to use, not B&Q etc which is fit for brush cleaning only, I am told. Do you find that the B&Q stuff works fine with CC. I dont want sticky CC, must be totally handleable. Many yrs ago I tried it when White Ensign and it was tacky 2 days later, couldnt hold objects they were reluctant to leave my fingers., and a second coat attacked the first and exposed the plastic. So I am treading carefully. Mr Hobby self levelling thinners is said to be the final go to thinners now and can be used with its intended brand but also works really well with enamels, so it is said. Have you tried that with Colourcoats ? I intend to play it by the book and assess CC with the intended thinners so wait until weather not so hot as 28C is not fair in a test. There again thats a test in itself whats it like in high temps, so maybe I will also do that, as well as in a sane temperature. Not sure if its a slow dry thinner, but self levelling maybe so, or just different ingredients like a retarder allowing time for pigments and media to blend. Whats its secret I wonder. I managed to get Alclad ll down in 26C and 60% humidity today so thats promising, nice result, until cheap chinese airbrush splattered a collection of it out from the V protector up front. just hope that evaporates to not noticeable, tip : remove the tip as at 10psi it accumulates during a covering pass and splatt. and beware exposed needle, dont blame me if you forget folks ! Merlin
  7. Hi, I am today spraying Alclad ll Klear Kote semi matte and gloss mix, so no thinners as such. Trying to get it done this morning currently 24C in studio and 58% humidity with window open all night so that shows what we actually get as base level when due 28 by 1pm and 32 by 4pm today, sun gets in 4pm onwards. I also intend to be spraying your RAF and Luft paints in the future so what thinners are best on such days. I try to avoid hot days but the calendar and weather combination have been unkind for my unavoidable varnishing today for a deadline already missed 4 times, the trouble for modelling for shows. Every time I need to access forum or internet or write my modelling notes up as I do whilst modelling the pc goes on. No money for getting a new laptop though., and air con I would love but many £k. Merlin
  8. Hi, let me explain, alclad ll klear kote semi matte sprayed out is 3/10 on my imaginary scale, with 0 being matt and 10 being gloss. I want 5/10. so what ratio of semi matte to their klear kote gloss should I make up to get 5/10 in theory. i.e what will it take to shift it from 3/10 to 5/10, a nice mathematical puzzle perhaps. lets also say I wanted 6/10 again what is the maths step by step ? Merlin
  9. The responses may have said so already, but get a powerful magnifyer and examine the nozzle, any defect at all like a hairline crack or deformity can cause bubbles I should know as a brand new cheap chinese a/b was doing so upon first use, so much for their qlty control., nozzle tip cracked. I have a H&S evo and it also is prone to bubbling, the brick coloured seal around the thread dissolved in thinners, a thin bead of beeswax rolled betwixt finger ans thumb then placed around the thread some use to replace that I seem to recall. Merlin
  10. Hi , fan on floor is always good as cooler air there, but this is about the air temp and humidity that the spray experiences. I am told anything over 18 is bad, orange peel, or dusty results, or frosting when humid. So what about such summer temps and humidity and spraying varnishes and paint etc. ?? as for PC, I need a new laptop, quiet running and a colour calibrated screen for photo editing and so on, then in summer I could work downstairs in a cooler room. The heat from the tower is just overwhelming, like sitting in front of a weak electric fire, kills summer, room at 30deg at midnight, hate summer !! however the 24inch colour calibrated Eizo monitor is what I need for my work and no laptop is that big and gorgeous. best thing I ever bought. Merlin
  11. Hi, misting water over surfaces of modelling area increases the humidity as it will evaporate very quickly, the room now is 26deg and I am wilting in the muggy air as it is, so the humidity is not good for the paint, I have considered it in the past but I hate humidity and my ability to stay focused and cool calm and collected with steady hand goes out the window, and humidity is the thing to avoid when spraying, especially lacquers, varnishes etc, I copied a post where it said do not use alclad in humidity and its alclad varnish I am about to spray, my previous varnish attempts all went wrong with other makes. Turning a fan on just whips up all the dust, might cool me down a bit but ruins my models with dust and particles stuck in my paint. I tend to turj the booth on and let it suck in anything in the air for 10 mins and move about like a cat burglar. Its the fact that airbrushing in temperatures above 18 and high humidity is not conducive to good finishes I am told, but how does one from may to sept get such conditions. Even asking today a friend I was told you havent a chance in these conditions., my chance to model is now and the weather says no, but waiting till Oct is too late I have shows I want to model for now. So what is airbrushing like in high humidity and temps above 23C, do you guys get any problems ? Merlin
  12. Hi, Most days are muggy and warm, a fresh day is maybe 1 in 10, my north facing studio is 23 at start of the morning and gets to 28 by midnight with a tall PC tower unit pumping out heat, even the large monitor puts out heat, its upstairs and house heat rises. it can be 32 in a heatwave at midnight, makes summer hell in fact. the actual climate is usually 23 or higher and humidity 70% or higher. Yet we are told to spray in 18deg C and low humidity, lacquers will frost taking on the humidity etc. Its impossible to find a day that suits that from about May to Sept. Americans have air con, us Brits dont. If a fresh day comes along the chances of it also being free for modelling are slim, the calendar doesnt see the free days match the fresh days. Also with doors open for air, one comes to spray and everything has a fine layer of dust, so remove 100's of pots and glues and other modelling stuff that seem to have gathered, its going to take a day to clear all and dedust then put back, by then the spray chance has gone, keeping doors shut though doesnt make the room any cooler, just the opposite. How do you fellow modellers cope , cupboard doors and everything behind doors perhaps, so just wipe down the doors ? shelves full of really useful box co boxes sees pots of paints, little dust gatherers, under storage and stackable but those boxes piled up also gather dust, and they are next to the spray area. no other place for them. Other side of room is PC and doored wardrobes. other two walls a door and a window. One option perhaps to have brass hooks in ceiling and on wall and an eyeleted sheet hung between modelling bench and booth, cuts off airflow so I and the room get hot now, but still the loads of RUBC boxes above booth to consider. even the booth bench gets to see lots of mixing pots, and paint pots gather, all now each a dust carrier. shift it all and wipe down with wet cloth then put this dust gathering assemblage back, after dedusting each one. What controlled area avoiding such clutter and dedusting have you got, and how do you manage to spray in 18deg C and low humidity avoiding 23C and high humidity normal UK summer day situation in the heart of England ? BOBC
  13. Hi, Might be too late now but someone else might benefit if not. I didnt know this was called the Stuart Type ll, there is also the Zwicky with its twin mirror image pumps, same pumps as in the rear of the Brockhouse 450 gallon trailer bowser (doors both ends) and also (as a mirror image of the 450 gallon bowser), the same pump in the Albion AM463 3 boom refueller, ( a la Airfix though they got the hose coming out of the trumpet ends very wrong, pure fiction) Here is the double Zwicky:- Merlin
  14. Hi, AdriaN (MLT) raised a good point, what is the answer to it as I also wonder likewise. Merlin
  15. Merlin

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    Nick, Great to see someone using Merrrick Kiroff and making their models match the charts. Thats the first time in ages I have seen 70/71 looking correct, the Stuka looking correct etc. actually in your photo the Do17Z 70 loks a tad more bluish yet if both are from the same tinlet/mix thats a bit odd, angle of light/refelcetion perhaps. Everyone note, that stuka is what stuka models and 70/71 should look like ! In fact b/w photos of Ju87B's see a lesser contrast than others such as He111, I wonder if the manufacturers had a slightly different paint batch, add a drop of 70 into 71 when doing stukas perhaps ! For those who think the Luftwaffe got 70/71 too similar, do what Nick has done, mix to Merrick then photo the model indoors, then outdoors on a dull 10/10 cloud day, then in full sunlight at middle of day (not yellowy dawn dusk area( and you will see the contrast go much greater in the sun, the Luft did know what they were doing, we are all studying colours too much indoors. I call it 'the Luftwaffe got it wrong' syndrome, they have to do the colours as they think they should have been, or they cant be bothered and argue that given variances some might have looked like it. When I saw as Ju87B in what appeared to be 71/02 I cant accept such laziness. They are trusting in paint manufacturers to get it right. Merlin
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