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About Merlin

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  1. Hi, AdriaN (MLT) raised a good point, what is the answer to it as I also wonder likewise. Merlin
  2. Merlin

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    Nick, Great to see someone using Merrrick Kiroff and making their models match the charts. Thats the first time in ages I have seen 70/71 looking correct, the Stuka looking correct etc. actually in your photo the Do17Z 70 loks a tad more bluish yet if both are from the same tinlet/mix thats a bit odd, angle of light/refelcetion perhaps. Everyone note, that stuka is what stuka models and 70/71 should look like ! In fact b/w photos of Ju87B's see a lesser contrast than others such as He111, I wonder if the manufacturers had a slightly different paint batch, add a drop of 70 into 71 when doing stukas perhaps ! For those who think the Luftwaffe got 70/71 too similar, do what Nick has done, mix to Merrick then photo the model indoors, then outdoors on a dull 10/10 cloud day, then in full sunlight at middle of day (not yellowy dawn dusk area( and you will see the contrast go much greater in the sun, the Luft did know what they were doing, we are all studying colours too much indoors. I call it 'the Luftwaffe got it wrong' syndrome, they have to do the colours as they think they should have been, or they cant be bothered and argue that given variances some might have looked like it. When I saw as Ju87B in what appeared to be 71/02 I cant accept such laziness. They are trusting in paint manufacturers to get it right. Merlin
  3. Hi Tamiya x35 semi gloss clear, what thinners to get best results ? ratio ? (please say x varnish to y thinners, not just 5:1 which I see in threads and drives me nuts !) psi ? nozzle ? distance and spray width at surface ? all these elements are vital. all can be won or lost on wrong spray distance and psi nozzle etc. I have heard of using Cellulose, when mentioning halfords, get told no, use Mr H cellulose (self levelling thinners) Merlin
  4. Hi, If satin or even gloss varnish is applied as per the rule book, i.e. use the manufacturers recommended thinner, ratio, psi , nozzle diameter and distance, also on a day when weather is as they suggest, be that fresh or damp, (I think fresh is the norm) and it misbehaves, satin going matt or gloss going satin or even matt, remaining tacky, then its worthy of a red flag and being avoided. If someone doesnt stir it THOROUGHLY, and doesnt do one of the rules above, its worth knowing what was excluded. Trouble is the pots have no guidance on them, folk suggest all sorts of thinners and psi and nozzles. Some kind of in depth testing or assembly of data is required to form a picture of what varnish has latitude in its rules of application. Posters rarely give us the full set of data on what was used as per the 2nd row of this post. Why is it that varnishes are so undependable after 50 yrs of modelling science progression ? Which ones are reliable ? A survey might help. Merlin
  5. True, I was just saying I dont like seeing off whites as opposed to the cause of domestic paint yellowing, by the way Yacht enamel white by International wont yellow, paint once and a lifetime of no further need . Allegedly. I have decades ago used it on a sign board and it remained white for its entire existence of 15 yrs, so now using it on house. but Klear he says will yellow as its not UV protected whilst those modelling varnishes that cost a lot more wont because they are UV protected. Or is it the other way round, they all will whilst Klear wont. Merlin
  6. Klear or Future, youtube video looking at acrylic varnishes says Klear is not UV protected, will go yellow over time. He ditches his bottle. This has come as a shock, though glad I havent used it yet. I couldnt get it to spray out in tests without bad orange peel anyway. so many quote Klear , but never a mention of this, are they aware of their models going yellow in time ? I hate seeing whites gone cream, including my house interior woodwork ! Merlin
  7. Hi, wish I had known that, we see the stuff on display and buy it. Researching varnishes a lot of them appear to have issues. Interested to know if cellulose as thinner solves the sticky ones. Struggling to find those not having an issue., one would think by now we had varnishes that worked without the tackies. galeria seems to be ok, though my satin came out matt so I need to establish what mix gives satin, some experimenting to be done. Wish the white acrylic ones didnt make things go whiter, especially evident on black. Denies my use of them. They appear to cure better. Merlin
  8. Hi, I plan to, first of all I have to try and catch him, carrot might work. Merlin
  9. Hi, I have Alclad II gloss, semi matt and matt here. Just googled them and users say the Gloss remains tacky. for Gloss they say everyone likes the aqua, but I see its white, which will lighten colours and blacks go grey. After googling for 40 mins on Klear Kote I keep seing that its remaining tacky, its s bit worrying. Was you satin sprayed on a damp day or fresh day ? No one states the weather which can be important. maybe you hold the secret. Its a fresh dry day so I will test spray mine ! Merlin
  10. Hi Dan, I did also get the idea of very thin insulation threaded on line, I need to find a source of such, but it gives as you have found a perfect shape, good for turnbuckles etc, or as you have done. Cheers Merlin
  11. Hi, I need to find a satin varnish that does go on perfectly, no shiny areas and matter areas, can be sprayed in a wide pattern to avoid that, and wont go sugary or dusty as a result of the greater distance, is not affected by distance and pressure and atmosphere humidity etc, and dries rock hard overnight , can be handled , is not tacky, will not end up with finger prints, or nitrile glove prints and is a nice even satin. Will not attack Valejo Model colour or other acrylics. Must not be white as it will make black go grey. Overnight or same day curing is important, for speed modelling. Suggestions please. Merlin
  12. Hi, I have tried nitrile gloves tonight but they also left a mark,...eeeeek ! Thus its not finger oils, its the darned stuff itself, would x20a thinners have made a difference ? I also hear of cellulose , am I right ,though in a confined space with an unvented to outside world booth thats a stinky and health iffy way to go. The finish was glasslike, such a shame if Mr H SLT is the cause. I need to assemble this thing now yet cant handle it, wish I had known this issue. I used MH GS satin varnish on a model and days later I was having to assemble it with nitrile gloves, minute ebrass items being attached with what felt like modelling with boxing gloves on. We dont get to know this until its too late, nothing on the jars saying beware allow 2 weeks before handling. I would have gone with Galeria gloss, but again no experience, so does Galeria dry rock hard overnight on a radiator or what ? I have alclad, valejo, galeria, Tamiya, protec, Liquitex, microscale, and more, yet find myself unable to just grab a varnish with confidence now. Mr Hobby super clear is rattle can so a pain for small fry but that was awesome for the pre-decaling coat. I am speed modelling for a deadline so thought acrylic the way to go, but its not any better, except easier cleanup. I also need to find a satin varnish that does go on perfectly, is not affected by distance and pressure and atmosphere etc, and dries rock hard overnight, and is satin. I will post a new thread on this satin quest ! Merlin
  13. HI, Rigging a ship, EZ line or in my case nylon fishing thread 0.08 etc Should I put a small drop of CA glue on the post top, then a bit of Zip Kicker CA accelerator on the line and bring them together, or is it the other way round ? Zip kicker runs so surely if I am with zip kicker at top of line it will run down, or is this process only for the bottom of the strand where gravity will keep the ZipKicker on the end of line ready for touching onto cabin roof or deck post ? If so what is process for where line attached to mast top etc ? Would a pre coloured (marker pen) line be ok or would the ink on it make for disaster ? I aim to start at a deck structure and go up to mast etc, seems sensible. Merlin
  14. Hi Guys, PVA glue it will be then. I see I also have some R/C Modellers Craft Glue by Deluxe Materials which is I think a little more dense than standard PVA. for PVA I use Evo stick, I find it a bit better than a bog standard make like B&Q dial etc. I diod also have some Aliphatic resin, which I recall was less prone to shrinkage. For zero shrinkage there is 5 minute epoxy resin, great for spherical knobs on gear levers etc,, but not sure how it would behave on a sloping line, might attack the rubber of EZline, though I am using fishing line as it has no twisted ribbon effect. Many thanks Merlin
  15. Hi, I understood reading the 'net' that Tamiya gloss X22 would produce a bullet proof hard finish. Furthermore using Mr Hobby self levelling thinner would make the best glass like finish, awesome in fact. I tried it, got a glass like finish..wow ! set it aside in dust free environment on rad set at 21deg C for 6 hrs, then reverts to 18C and just under 24 hrs later I handle it, feels nice, no tackiness. Appears cured. I few mins later I notice a finger print, and thumb print from where I had been holding it doing some measuring. on the surface, not gone into it as such, but wont rub away with the same fiingers that put it there ! Now what do I do ? Will this varnish over ? or do varnished fingerprints show ? They are 'on the surface' as opposed to ' gone into into wet varnish' . I cant rub it down if its still 'technically not 100% cured, it could be 'soft', things need to be 100% hard . Would another layer of satin varnish lose it, as that was the next stage, a final satin coat ? As such this hasnt cured as expected. would this be the self levelling thinners an alien substance to the normal X20A thinners. Maybe a few more days it would be handleable but I need to be handling it now ! deadline to meet, and fix three fingerprints. Merlin
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