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About Merlin

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  1. Hi, the kicker and CA was a method told to me by a modeller who appears to have a tame spider. Thing is as soon as the ca meets kicker bang ca sets so if trying to get end of line into hole unless one is VERY QUICK in the 'docking procedure' it could set on the outer portion of the hole, as opposed to being fully 'in there', CA even seems to set if it smells kicker let alone if it touches wet kicker, if it sets up without it and doesnt mind slight hand tremble (racing against clock) on line all is well and good. I will drill fine hole in rod/mast/pole in deck but not sure if trying to be clever and also drill hole in mast top for other end is good as that means cutting line to exact length, dont think thats possible. it will have to pass to one side of the mast head under the end cap. the twangy stuff is ok but can have a twisted ribbon effect as its not circular in section from looking at EZ line. Is Uschi circular ? I fancy grey for steel as opposed to black, so a marker pen run along the line is an idea. I might also roughen up the line end a tad for ca grip. Merlin
  2. Hi, using monofilament thread 0.1mm going from a pole on the deck up to mast, What is the best method ? drill a hole in pole to accept end of thread seems a good start, then what? zip kick in hole and s/glue on line or ca in hole and zipkick on line, will it even stay there long enough for line into hole ? which s/glue gap filler or runny like water or gel ? Then at mast is it s/glue on mast and touch line to that then with the unfamiliar hand touch zipkick preloaded brush to mast ? and what about using rigging thread, what method then ?..thinks...it absorbs the zipkick or s/glue so a different technique ? maybe presoak tip and zipkick it, then it cant soak up sglue or zipkick. (zipkick is my s'glue accelerator by the way) Merlin
  3. Thanks, I have the 560 I see, also gator grip, but seeing a deluxe materials canopy glue applied that to both surfaces and brought them together needing a bit of adjustment, so hope that does, not sure if bond is as strong as 560 or if slight movement is good when its not dried, but it was essential to have slight adjustment properties. It has 8 hrs to set before I need to handle it given time limits now. Merlin
  4. Hi, turret as on anson or oxford or larger still the lancaster, two halves of glazing, just what glue should be used for a strong joint without harming the glazing ? deluxe canopy glue or standard poly cement in a jar, or what ? One can google join aircraft turret halves together and find nothing. Really could do with an easy to search on listing of tasks and best method. we buy all these modelling books but knowing which one has this in it, and where in the book, also where is the book etc, Take hours to find it, and thats not an option when racing against the clock, the internet is the quick go to, yet sometimes the answers to such a search are so unrelated. Merlin
  5. Hi, Jamie, yes thats my fear, so think, being now in a hurry here, hand paint with acrylic, edit the edges with chisel ended cocktail stick or similar, acrylic doesnt bond as enamels do, meaning that edit can be done, but is fragile in handling and for mask removel scary and more, but I have the colour ready to use, no time to go colour matching in enamels and cutting masks. 1/72 anson turret too curvy maybe for decals, and the acrylic would no doubt scag when cut. no primer straight on with a grey camo colour in time left now. I bet the BoB hurri pilots suffered from glare when the sun bounced off silver glazing frames ! Merlin
  6. Hi, in summary I need primer for turrets and mr surfacer 1200 is wrong colour. As acrylics need a primer I am wondering what to use that is the right interior colour for the framing, such as RAF interior grey green, or black for bomber command turrets etc. I like the ability to edit the edges with cocktail stick when using acrylics such as Vallejo, I dont want to be trying to colour match the Vallejo in enamels. I do want to paint the clear parts with acrylics, using the same Vallejo as on the camo. the paint must be able to be hand brushed on. Tamiya and GS out of the equation as such. So actually the primer doesnt need to say so on the tin, other substances would do, so, I can use a varnish or enamel. If I am to mask the canopies and turrets then spraying varnish would work, if hand painting frames then I cant see where the varnish is, and could end up spoiling the glazed areas. Black matt enamel would work but editing the edge with cocktail stick wouldnt. For hand painting I am still not sure of a solution. Merlin
  7. Hi, Easy reference quick start guide to thinning and spraying varnishes. Prompted by the fact that I am about to spray Humbrol satin cote with no idea what ratio, thinners, psi etc etc will work., and with failure of Alclad ll to go satin this time compared to last time... I wish to create a thread, that may become pinned if useful, where modellers can list what thinners and thinner ratio, psi, nozzle, distance they find did a nice job, so saving hours spent experimenting, especially if armed with a variety of varnishes and thinners, it will become days, and when trying to get something built for a deadline we want to reach for something that others find works for them, as a start point at least. Instant help and be up and running, time spent spraying one's model not figuring out what went wrong. Please populate the list with the details headed. I have added temp and humidity as these seem to play a major role on frosting or finish achieved. If you wish to say how many passes single or double and if 'wet' feel free. Varnish(make and title) thinner Make ratio of thinners as % added psi (when air flowing) distance temperature humidity Merlin
  8. Hi, Rustins Driers...worth noting, but I like enamels as they dont dry on needle and make airbrushing hell, as acrylics do,... maybe a bit might stop varnishes remaining tacky, this is tacky several months later, thats not right at all. It was sprayed over Galeria satin varnish 4 months after the Galeria went on.)and went matt !) It dries ok, this time, unable to alter whats already down now from 7 months ago, just stuck with it in more ways than one !, current problem is semi matt has gone 3/4 matt, now to try and fix, it, try overspray with something that might go satin such as humbrol satin cote,then i wonder what thinner ratio, using humbrol thinner. wish these manufacturers would put a recommended thinner ration psi and nozzle and distance on pots, there is usually NOTHING to aid us. Merlin
  9. one has to make a decision, water based or smelly acrylic or enamel varnish over Alclad ll failed semi matt, what is safest ? basic principles here, its probably still 'live'., 16 hrs not enough cure time, but must move on no time to wait a week, show awaits. Am I right in saying its enamel based so maybe humbrol satin cote best ? its a sad state of affairs that we modellers havent a dependable varnish yet. Merlin
  10. Hi, The white I refer to is in varnishes like Vallejo and Lifecolor, also Liquitex, its like WHITE liquid as opposed to the matting agent that one sees settle out in Alclad or Humbrol or testors etc. Only the water based acrylics have the WHITE liquid that never settles out, and it makes a black go grey, not just matt black. I had Galleria Satin varnish go dead matt on a model, so months later sprayed it with Alclad ll semi matt 15psi 0.4 nozzle (no thinning required) and that varnihs goes down just as one would dream for, and 7 months later when holding it it takes to the fingers after 10 or so secs, so vinyl gloves required. I have used it again on items to go onto the model and done a test card as before, this tijme its 3/4 matt, same botle same psi etc etc, I absolutely hate varnishes. 60 yrs of modelling development and still we havent an idiot proof varnish. Nothing out there works consistently. I use Tamiya Gloss thinned with Mr H self levelling thinners as is said can be done, fantastic glazed finish, but creates fingerprints after several secs weeks later. The Alclad ll seemed so good, the way it goes down, no peculiar textures as with Johnson Klear, or a water based varnish, just makes you feel this is my quest over. What can one spray over Alclad ll semi matt half a day later to correct the sheen from 3/4 matt to satin and not have some failure of some kind result such as tackiness or orange peel or whatever. Also should varnish be sprayed at 10 psi or 15 psi or 20psi, what nozzle and what distance ? Merlin
  11. Hi, Fuad, So glad to see the photos, well worth asking for, that is a very well made model, competition standard is that, I immediately can tell class modelling there, its more like 1:48 given the careful glazing lines, , painting accuracy, weathering and detailing. I would like to know where did you get the gunsight from ? Merlin
  12. Hi, Painting with Vallejo model air and first stage is priming with Mr surfacer 1200, ensures paint adheres. Enamels you can get away with no primer . Then we come to the transparencies...however I dont want light grey interior framing on canopies and turrets and vallejo rubs off very easily if just painted on, though this is good for editing the edge with a cocktail stick or chopped off microbrush, but primers dont come as interior grey green or black for Bomber Command turrets. Just handling when affixing can see ones handiwork and all that carefull hand painting being damaged. Acrylics lile Vallejo dont bond quite like enamels., smelly ones might be better but are a pig to hand paint , . I have my colour I am using in vallejo and need to use it on the canopies as well. Help ! Merlin
  13. Oh no,,....all photos have vanished and I wished to see the results to decide if to get a valom. and study your model. Merlin
  14. Hi, that colour pics link is just awesome. MANY THANKS. lots of RED roundels bright blues, oxide red and darker blues. and valuable colours on other items I am into. Wing curvature on leading edge of that spitfire is same yet two very different colours, it is not accounting for the big difference over a few feet on the same curvature though. That BLUE roundel is a different blue same direction it faces as fin flash, same lighting, . I would be interested to see evidence of a Mk l Spit with fibre seat. Few of the pics in the link exhibit a 'red oxide' colour, that colour goes more 'red' with the film in use or sun on it from what I am deducing, however there is RED and the red oxide spot going red, as two separate entities in the pics. Crew at atil area whitley, that fin flash BLUE !!!! must look through these pics more when get 5 mins, Telford is tugging at my time allowance ! Merlin
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