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About sapperastro

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  1. sapperastro

    Any tips for brush painting varnish?

    Matt varnish? First off, you need the right varnish, and everyones answer will be different. I have used the vallejo stuff successfully, though I prefer Humbrol Matt Cote at present. Having never used AK, I cannot comment on it. I have found 'varnish aint varnish' so many times now, that the brand seems to matter a great deal, and it doesn't matter whether the other paints work well or not. Humbrol enamel used to have good matt varnish, though the consensus seems to be don't bother with the new stuff, Revell Aqua matt varnish doesn't work for me (dries whitish even after thinning, rest of the paint is great), liquitex matt varnish doesn't work for me. I intend to try Revell enamel and model master acrylic matt varnishes next. You could just use a rattle can. I have used the Humbrol and Tamiya rattle can matts, and gotten good finishes. Just need to learn how to spray light coats and not drench the model. You aren't leaving pools of the stuff to dry on the model? I have found allowing the matt varnish to pool always leads to white patches in those areas, regardless of whether the rest of the coat works well.
  2. sapperastro

    Thinking of changing paint, need some advice please.

    Have to agree with others here. While the Tamiya Acrylic is no enamel, or Revell Aqua, it is one of the tougher acrylics I have used, especially after giving it a day or two to harden. Apart from that, as Graham says, buy a pot of of each paint you are thinking of and give them a shot.
  3. sapperastro

    Just tried out some Revell enamel paint.

    Agreed. While I can get excellent performing new Humbrols, many are also utter crap, with no knowledge of what is awaiting you until you open the tin. I have picked a few more Revells since, and again, all of them were of the same consistency as the first lot, and these were from a different shop. Just as an aside, a friend of mine that used to use Revell back in the day (80's/90's) had a few leftover tins that he gave me last wednesday. One was dried up, but the other two are fine and had never been opened. Virtually the same as the new stuff! So I conclude that Revell hasn't really changed. Never thought I would say Revell beats Humbrol....so much for things improving.
  4. sapperastro

    Airfix Heinkel He 111 H6 colour scheme

    Haha, by spilling some the Humbrol luftwaffe enamels, you may have helped them. I tipped the carrier fluid out when the paint was settled, and had a much better experience with them. Looking forward to seeing your aircraft.
  5. sapperastro

    Airfix Heinkel He 111 H6 colour scheme

    Since you use enamel, I would either go for Revell black green, Revell bronze green with Revell light blue undersides, or get the colourcoats enamels for a more authentic look (RLM 70/71 on top with RLM 65 on bottom). Either way you will have enamels that work better than the Humbrol Luftwaffe range.
  6. sapperastro

    Just tried out some Revell enamel paint.

    I will have to pick some color mix up then. Has anyone tried the gloss and matt varnish? No yellowing? No white clouding? etc?
  7. sapperastro

    Just tried out some Revell enamel paint.

    Only one of the paints I got was gloss, and it dried faster than many a (latter) Humbrol enamel matt. There are many easy mixes for various colours, and I write them down as I discover them (or steal them from the revell instruction download section, and find them decent after experimenting), so they do require effort sometimes in this area.
  8. sapperastro

    Just tried out some Revell enamel paint.

    I recently bought 8 tins of Revell enamel, of various colours, from a hobby shop that had some on sale. The last time I tried this paint was in the 80s, and all I remember at the time was that it was ok, but not as good as Humbrol, and didn't bother buying any more. All of those old tins dried up over the years. First of all, all of the tins I bought recently are of a good consistency. Not too thick or thin, and coverage is generally good. Wow. Not one duff tin. Not used to that with enamels these days, except when I buy colourcoats. They have a mild smell for an enamel too. I will also add that I tried spraying them, and they spray well, very well...how about that? There are a few bad points though.The tin lids are weak, and bend very easily when prying off the lid. I get this occasionally with Humbrol, and never with colourcoats, so lets hope this doesn't lead to a lack of longevity in the tin. I would not recommend keeping the lid off these paints for long periods. Stir, and decant what you need then clean and replace the lid, as they seem to also dry very quickly for an enamel. So, if you are painting very small details, then unthinned should be fine, but don't try to paint even slightly larger areas unthinned, otherwise you will get brush mark city. This stuff reminds of Tamiya enamel in that way; you can get a great result, but don't think you are using old Humbrol here. Thin it or weep. Of course, the Revell Colour chart also comes into play. 88 colours, including Matt, satin (silk as Revell calls it), and Gloss, Metals, and a few transparent colours. They are named in a literal fashion, apart from a few like Sky and RAF Dark Earth and RAF Dark Green, all of which are quite passable for the subjects they are named for. Plenty of utility colours, near matches, and surprising great matches. Finding them is the pain, and you will find that asking other users, pilfering from the instruction download section on Revell Germanys website, and experience will be the factors to mixes and finding the perfect matches among the pedestrian named paints. I know this because i have quite a stable of Revell Aqua paints, which are very, very good acrylic paints. I thinned mine successfully with Humbrol enamel thinner, Colourcoats enamel thinner and Tamiya X-20 enamel thinner. They seem to be pretty easygoing in this area. I haven't used the Revell 'Color Mix' enamel thinner though. What has surprised me is just how good they are. Everywhere I look, people seem to be bagging them out, but all of the 8 tins I purchased, which seem to come from different batches looking at the two different label styles, are all consistent, and all work quite well. If you work in enamels, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend picking them up, and it is nice to come across another enamel paint that is decent to use. The only complaint I have seen leveled at them which I am unable to comment on is longevity in the tin. Some seem to complain that they dry out within a year. Whether this is user sloppiness in not cleaning the tin lids/necks, or painting direct from the tin and letting the thinner evaporate while doing so, an issue with the Revell paints/tins themselves or a combination, I am yet to see. Anyway, I won't bore you further. I was just quite happy after trying this old dark horse that everyone seemed to write off, and finding it a quite pleasant experience. Finding a new (to me since the last few decades) addition to the enamel stable, that (so far) works really well, is for sale locally, is a rare event these days. Just thought I would share my thoughts with you.
  9. sapperastro

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    As Nick Millman once said, and I quote;
  10. sapperastro

    ACRN36 - US Equivalent Sky

    Bit late to the party, but why hasn't this been a success? Low sales? I would have thought it would sell more than RAF Sky Blue. or Eu de nille. In which case, just make it when required?
  11. Hello Jamie, I need your colours for the above. I know the Volunteer group and initial RAAF P-40s came in the US equivalent DG/DE/Sky combo before any repaints. I can see the equivalent sky, but what are the other two colours? And would you know if the initial P-40s that went to the RAF were also in the same colours? I have a couple of airfix p-40 kits too that are given the usual Humbrol 29/30/90 scheme but thought if the others were in the equivalent colours, surely first aircraft to go to Britain (and the mid east) would have used the same paints, as the Volunteer groups aircraft were just RAF birds that were redirected to China. Any help appreciated, Greg
  12. sapperastro

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    I would imagine that paints during the early war would be more precise than those used as the war progressed. There was a lot more time and ability to 'get things right'. Later on I daresay things would gotten tardier as everything went to hell for Germany.
  13. sapperastro

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    I have seen with my own eyes how variable military paints can be, even from the same factories. And while the Third Reich may have had expert paint fuhrers running around measuring each and every batch for consistency, and the slave labour workers may have been sufficiently whipped into ensuring that each batch was mixed to perfection of these standards with bombs possibly raining down on their factories, I have my doubts By all means, try to keep things authentic, that is basically the mission of people like Jamie who strive to do just that. And I try to keep things in the ballpark. But bear in mind that this just doesn't happen in the real world where normal people, with normal jobs at the paint factory only give a toss to a certain degree. The inspector might have a headache that day, the squadron leader might not give a poo-poo that the can of paint opened is not an exact match, the list of variables goes on from the factory floor right to application, and then we have weathering on top of that...and this is only a nation at peace with no issues to speak of. Really, I haven't even gone back to the suppliers of the ingredients! Variables on variables. Add in a nation at war where all sorts of new variables arise, and you have the perfect storm. Just my opinion.
  14. sapperastro

    RLM Paint Chip Chart

    Be careful thinking of Humbrol colours. I have recenty painted out 5 vintages of 116, dating from the 70's to the current paper label tin. The progression from a blueish tint in the late 70's, to a an olive colour from today are quite amazing. I paint out swatches of each and every tin of model paint as I buy them, from every manufacturer, and they are usually all different to differing degrees. I would also suggest real life mass manufactured paints, would show similar differences
  15. sapperastro

    Paint storage and very low temperatures

    Many Acrylics cannot be frozen, otherwise they are cactus. That being said, take some out and give it a whirl. That is the only way to be sure.