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About sapperastro

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  1. sapperastro

    Humbrol paint range reductions

    Perhaps he fills new tins with old Humbrol enamel. But seriously, you can get very good tins of the new stuff. The problem is, you don't know if you have won the lottery until you get it home and try it. The last ones I bought several months ago were of the 'dooesn't want to dry/ hardly sticks to the surface' variety. Then i tried revell enamel. So, Revell, plus Colourcoats, plus Tamiya enamel makes up a formidable arsenal. I don't understand how it can be so hard to make a decent enamel paint that is consistent, but there you go.
  2. sapperastro

    What are the colours on these aircraft?

    Thanks gents. So the mossie is overall msg? I always thought they were ocean grey on top. You learn something new every day.
  3. sapperastro

    What are the colours on these aircraft?

    First aircraft is no doubt a mossie, but that doesn't look like OG to me, perhaps MSG with RAF dark green? Even the green looks very 'green' to my eye. And the latter two are possibly RAF night and?
  4. You could try adding a little matt varnish or tamiya flat base to the satin paint, or even talcum powder. I do this from time to time with satins and gloss paints to make them more brushable. It is a process of adding just a small amount at a time until you get it to the point you need. In any case, the revell aqua satins can need a few more thinned coats, but I actually spoon the paint out of the pot and thin them seperately.
  5. Hmm, how much are you thinning your paints? I find even with matt black, I usually need two thinned coats for really total coverage, at least over a large part. I could do it with one, but then the loss of detail just starts to kick in. Still, the part about the Revell light grey was confusing. I have't had that problem before, with matt anyway.
  6. What specific brand are you using for the most troublesome colours? I can brush paint white with 3-4 coats of Model master acrylic, all thinned coats. Alternatively, I have done it with less using Revell, though the Revell matt white is not quite white, more of an off white. And this is over bare washed plastic, no primer. Other brands have given me issue with coverage. Revell matt yellow is very good for coverage, as is their red. And the Revell enamel takes even less thinned coats than the acrylic for coverage of these weaker colours/shades.
  7. sapperastro

    I'm a serial brush killer

    Yeah, I use the watercolour brushes all the time, though usually with enamels. Try the metho trick and see if it works if your brush cleaner doesn't. You never know. I forgot. If all else fails, try acetone. Using the same steps as the metho, put a peg on the brush, and put the bristles and a little bit of the metal part submerged in the acetone. Leave it for a while to let the paint melt off, and clean the brush gently against the side of the jar.. I have only had to do this a couple of times, but if this does not get the paint out of the ferule, nothing else will. Only use a glass jar, plastic jars will melt with acetone in them.
  8. sapperastro

    I'm a serial brush killer

    Which paint is the culprit here? I sometimes clean out a brush with Methylated spirits to get the dried crap out of it. Put a peg on the brush, and submerge it in the jar of metho (only metal part and bristles, not the wooden/plastic part) and after 20 minutes or so, clean it gently against the side of the jar in the metho. Funny the mentioning of the Humbrol heller senators. I have a few of them and they are still soldiering on from the 80s. Very few of my brushes ever die.
  9. sapperastro

    P-47M 56th FG colors

    So the 'dark blue on light blue' scheme is taking on a 'Night/Insignia blue over azure blue' theme here? I too recently bought a revell p-47m and have been dumbfounded by the controversy. Initially I was just going to stick to the revell instructions and go with the dark blue/light blue, but I am wavering.
  10. sapperastro

    Enemal dry time

    I would give it 24 hours, or at least overnight just as a precaution. Anything else, and you risk taking bits off, even though it may seem dry.
  11. sapperastro

    Metallics by brush

    I just use Revell metallic colours these days. They do the job. Sometimes I will use Model master, or tamiya.
  12. With the Revell Aqua containers, don't forget to snip off the two 'prongs' on the lids after you open them. These invariably get a little bent when taking on and off, and never allow the lid to seal up again properly. With them off, you should have a lot less drying issues.
  13. sapperastro

    Tamiya paint issues ?

    So long as your airbrush has teflon seals, acetone cleans out out acrylics and enamels with ease. followed up by a good load of clean water through it.
  14. With the few I have sprayed I just used Tamiya X20a thinner. Aqueous and Tamiya acrylic are very similar paints. Some use lacquer thinner, but that kind of defeats the whole 'spraying enamel is evil' chant, as lacquer thinner is much worse for you than white spirit.
  15. I think the poll is fine, so long as people give a comment on their runners up. I am surprised by Tamiya in the brush painting vote though; I can get them to work after adding retarder and flow improver, but as to the best? I would love to hear their thoughts on the matter and what they do to accomplish it. When the question of brush painting comes up, and someone asks 'what is the best' I try to think along the lines of 'ability to paint the entire model with a brush' rather than just small details.