Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


CasualModel98 last won the day on September 16 2020

CasualModel98 had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

958 profile views

CasualModel98's Achievements

Established Member

Established Member (3/9)



  1. The way to read this is...for the record 4-Methyl-2-Pentanone or known as Diacetone Alcohol with an evaporation rate of 0.12 4-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-Pentanone or known as Methyl Isobutyl Ketone (MIBK) with evaporation rate of 1.6 In comparison Acetone has an evaporation rate of 5.6 and Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) is 3.8 Water evap rate is 0.3
  2. Tried to print 1/72 scale AIM9 sidewinders using resin. Found an stl online from thingiverse, scaled it down to 1/72 size, chopped it into 3 pieces head, torso tail and set it to print. Final product quite respectable but when I tried to cut them off the supports the tail fins break. When I scaled them down the fins are about 0.2mm thickness. Too thin? Or maybe reduce the number of supports? Or is there a strong resin type I can use?
  3. The decals are nice, and like any good F-4 kits, they have a LOT of stencils... Beware the longer strips tend to break quite easily. Also their practice of grouping stencils together in long strips so that you don't have to apply too many small stencils, its a silvering nightmare. Gotta be extra careful. You got to make sure you have a glossy surface and let the decal float on a pool of microset/setter or equivalent. After the decal is dry, I then apply microsol/softer for better adhesion to the panel lines. A nice and thoughtful thing I noticed is that when you soak the decals, the indication that the decal is ready is when the circle with the decal number float away, but the decal is still on the paper. You got to remove it from the water then or else the decal too will float after a while.
  4. All the more reason to get FM's kit. That is until and IF Tamiya decides to downscale their 1/48 F-4 to 1/72.
  5. Agree that the FM kits are more expensive than the Hasegawa kit (JPY3120 vs JPY2500-2700) but the amount of detail, the finer detail, the kit design, the number of parts and fabulous fit all makes it worth the price. I am glad FM came in to break Hasegawa's hold in this market. Hasegawa have gotten lazy and keeps throwing out an aged mould that lacks detail. However its a clever business model to produce cheap kits from a tired mould and repackage it with new decals. Collectors who wants a body to paste the decals will go for it. If you want to collect all the different paint scheme of the F-4, then the Hase boxings are the way to go since its cheap to produce and the price is more affordable than FM's kit. FM on the other hand is developing new parts as its product expansion. No point paying so much for an FM kit to just have different paint schemes and decals. However collectors who wants an accurate kit with finer detail and a great kit to boot, then FM is the choice. And yes, the seat belts and pilots comes as bonus for buying the first edition releases. Subsequent stock refills will not have the bonus parts.
  6. Have already bought a few boxes of the earlier F-4 from FM. Need to curb my enthusiasm. The F-4J is nice but I like the Phantoms with the chin so waiting for the F-4D in September.
  7. I find using just water always causes silvering. I read about using Klear but I found that to be less effective. Some modellers swear by it, says it grabs the decal and suck it in. For me the decal just seem to float on top of the Klear and keep sliding around. It does not "grab" or "suck down" the decal.
  8. What I do now is to cut the decals into individual stencils. Soak them to make sure they are wet like for 10 seconds. Wait for a minute till the decal loosen from the paper backing. Wick any excess water away using a piece of tissue paper. Apply a drop of Mr.Mark Setter on the area I wish to apply the decal. Use a fine tweezer to carefully pick the decal from the paper and put it on the decal solution. I make sure the decal float on top of the decal solution. I carefully wick away if too much solution and leave enough to still be able to adjust the decal. Once set, I wick away the rest of the decal solution. I let it dry, I don't even use a cotton bud to press it down. In the past when I used a cotton bud to press it down, it silvered quite badly. I leave it to the decal solution to dry and suck it down. This I saw gave me the best effect.
  9. I am fixing the F-4E from FM. Its a great kit but the decals are a night mare for me. They are nice and thin but they break or crack easily. This is using water and not even any decal solution. And Finemold decided to make strips of decals to join a couple of stencils together. I understand this is to aid the placement of the stencils and also to save us from having to process too many small decals. However they are a silvering nightmare if not done properly. Silvering!!! I lost a couple of the decals in my effort to fix the silvering. They are very fragile and once dried, is almost impossible to refloat them with water. They break or curl up. This is driving me nuts. So I have no choice but to cut the decals into smaller stencils and apply them one by one.
  10. To move decals you almost need to "float" them by applying a lot of water. I think the decal disintegrated as some parts of the decal was till stuck. Gently move the decal until the entire decal is freemoving or else apply more water underneath. Do not apply any softening solution when moving the decal as these will soften and weaken the decal.
  11. Yeah, I plan to get the Hasegawa bomb set to equip my F-4s instead of the FM set to be released. The Hase set also cost 3x lower.
  12. For those of you on the other side of the world, note the European distri and prices. r https://www.facebook.com/finemolds.co.jp/posts/3910640299050278
  13. Found my own answer, the weapons are sold separately. Somehow I was under the impression it was bundled together...
  • Create New...