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Badder

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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

  • Rank
    SCHOOL OF PAINT RUB BACK REPAINT RPT X 7 MODELMAKING
  • Birthday 03/28/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wiltshire
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. I've got the camo roughly how I envisaged it. Here's the Tiger. The commander has no idea how he ended up parked here. You could say he was stumped. But whilst he was there he got a spray with Galeria Acrylic Gloss Varnish. And a few washes with Humbrol Dark Earth Weathering Powder, diluted with water. TFL Badder
  2. Just wanted to mention a few things about my method for winter whitewash. Firstly, as everyone knows, I apply many layers, often covering up previous ones completely in some areas, but not always. Sometimes I cover up selected areas, as was the case with the Dunkelgelb camo repair. But this repair just becomes yet another layer. Rub it back and I expose the layer o layers beneath, apply yet more washes on top of the new layer and those to can be rubbed back to reveal the repair layer. In other words layers are layers and all have an effect if they are re-exposed. And that brings me to my 'messy' approach to winter whitewash, and specifically, dust: either filed/sanded plastic dust, or homemade mud containing plaster dust or other fine particles. In the photo below, you can see very fine dark speckles on the storage bin on the back of the turret. These are not speckles of paint applied by flicking a loaded brush, nor are they speckles applied one by one by a tiny brush. These were where particles of dust stuck to the turret base coat and remained there throughout the applications of following coats; particles which were finally removed during the chipping process, with the water loaded brush dissolving the dust or the surrounding medium and washing it clear. This leaves tiny pits in the paint, pits which are subequently filled with a dark wash, producing the effect which can be seen below. Sometimes however, the dust may not be released and so it will stand proud of the surface. If a lighter coat is applied over this dust, and is then rubbed back, the dust particles will stand prouid as darker spots. Either way, the effect appears realistic to me, so I never worry about dust/dirt getting onto my winter camo models. TFL Badder
  3. My attempt at hard-edged masking was a bit ropey on the engine cover..... And I wasn't sure about the masking at the front of the tank, but I gave it a spray. I didn't like the results, so I abandoned the hard-egde camo. I 'repaired' the duff areas of camo with sprays of Light Dunkelgelb, then sprayed all over with a couple of coats of Silvikrin before re-applying the camo with a free-hand white acrylic ink. I added the Silvikrin'd turret and sprayed that to match up with the deck camo. It was then a case of chipping away with a large soft wet brush, and a small stiff-bristled brush. As the white ink dissolved and loaded the brush, I regularly cleaned it off by running it around the wheel hubs. With the primary chipping done, I applied washes with Dark Earth Weathering Powder. Inevitably, I did soften and knock off some of the mud, but I shall replace it. And under low-energy lightbulbs: As you can tell, a lot of the stuff here is dry-fitted. I cannot close the tank up until I've made the cooling fans and I won't be fixing the tow cables in place until after I've finished the weathering. BTW, the 'repaired' areas of camo (after the first aborted attempt at hard-edge camo) are obviously now back to Light Dunkelgelb, darkened with Dark Earth washes. These areas will have to be washed with white again to get them back to the original 'old whitewashed' colouration. TFL Badder
  4. I've not been too well for the past month TBH, but I've upped my dose of painkillers for the 2nd time and that seems to be doing the trick, thanks. Mrs Badder is her usual lovely self. As for hard-edge camo, I think I could manage it on a V2 rocket, but anything with details on it is a PITH. Have great time off. Rearguards, Badder Hi Robert, Thanks, it was a case of 3rd time lucky. I have 2 broken/ruined ones in the stash (in case I should ever need very small lengths of tow cable) I don't know what type of metal cable you're using, but flame-heating the bit you want to bend may help things. BTW, when I bent my bicycle brake cable the problem I had was that the cable would splay apart at the bend. I tried soaking that splayed area with thin CA and twisting the cable back together again before bending it again, and that helped. It wasn't a total cure, but it may work better on your cable, depending on the wire. Rearguards, Badder
  5. Thanks Clive, I'm in the process of adding the final whitewash using hairspray technique. I did start off with hard edged camo stripes, but found it a bit difficult masking off all the gubbins on the engine cover, so I've scrapped that idea and am doing soft-edged freehand instead. Progress pics and the final result later today. Hope you are well, Rearguards, Badder
  6. Before I apply the final whitewash I thought I'd deal with a couple of niggly bits: the RHS tow rope which fouls the cooling fan cover on that side and the underside of the engine cover. Having tried and failed to replace the tow ropes with bicycle brake cables, and having failed in bending the cables with heat, and having then resorted to stealing a replacement tow cable from a Tiger Mid in my stash, I thought I'd yet again risk trying to bend the tow cable out of the way with the aid of a bit of heat. But first, I had the idea to snip the offending loop of tow cable off and flip it over so that the loop hangs outboard of the tank. That would get me half way towards what I wanted without any bending, or heat. Loop snipped off: And flipped over: Some CA Gel would be used to re-attach the loop to the clamp once the loop had been bent further with the aid of heat. As is often the case, heating and bending tow cables can be risky, as I said, and sure enough, I managed to snap the loop. Hey ho. But with some more heat, some more bending, and thankfully no more disasters, I managed to get the two broken halves of loop bent into a shape which (although not perfect) looks reasonable. I then Gel'd each half of the loop to the clamp, and, once dry, Gel'd the break in the loop to get this: The repaired break is the pale patch of cable directly above the idler wheel and at the height of the bottom of the sponson. The kink in the cable at the clamp is a bit unfortunate, but it's not unbelievable. I daren't risk heating that area of cable again. The Angle of Dangle was the main thing: Not perfect, but I'm going to call that job done. BTW, the turret is turned to the correct angle to allow for the opening of the engine cover, as was the case in real li Now to the underside of the engine cover, a far simpler job! TFL Badder
  7. Hi Simon, I'm giving yourstunning Wespe a well-deserved bump. (Again) @Retired Bob Not entirely Penumbra-style chipping but there is some in there. I have a gander here now and then whenever I intend to chip by brush. Rearguards, Badder
  8. Hi Bob, I've done the odd bit of chipping by brush as I like the fact that you can put the chips precisely where you want them. The hairspray/chipping fluid techniques are less precise in where they do and don't chip. They are good though, because when using a wet brush you can also fade whitewash for example, as well as chip. So, I now lean towards a combination of chipping fluid and chipping by brush. On the 'Penumbra-style' chipping front, @Redcoat2966 used some on his stunning Wespe in the RFI section. I may just have a go at it on my current Tiger. Rearguards, Badder
  9. I've added a bit more mud here and there, mostly packing it under the mud flaps and side skirts. I've also drilled out the air filter nozzles before a final touch-up before whitewashing. And with regards to the whitewashing, I'm going to leave the S-mines, commander's cupola and the rest of the crews' hatches off for that process. I'm hoping to get a very particular look with the whitewash: that of a more recent application of broad hard-edged stripes with some wear and tear, a bit of staining with mud/dirt and a tiny bit of rust on things like the engine grills. Then the whole vehicle will be chipped, but not so much as to look overdone. I have seen photos and artist's impressions of such camo schemes, presumably where the crews didn't have time to whitewash their vechicles all over, where an old whitewash needed re-doing, or where patchy snow conditions didn't warrant a full whitewash. TFL Badder TFL Badder
  10. I am no expert, but thanks! I love making buildings. You can really go to town on them (or the countryside) I can't wait to get back to my ruined farm house and start on the collapsed roof and walls with piles of rubbe, roof tiles and rafters etc. I'd recommend searching out some of the better MiniArt kits and making latex moulds of the walls etc for casting copies in plaster. I have several of their kits and can cast a variety of different wall types whenever I wish. That aside, I look forward to your further adventures into 1/35th and dio work in particular. Rearguards, Badder
  11. Hi Steve, Sorry for the late response, but I assure you that I was following progress when I had a spare moment from rushing to get my Tiger to some presentable state. I am still working on my Tiger, but I have been going down the list of participants who made it to the gallery, and now it's your turn. It's been said before, but we all knew your 1/72nd skills would transfer most favourably to 1/35th. You've certainly hit a high standard in this scale, straight off the bat. Your KT is a beauty. The camo scheme is a work of art in itself, all very neat and balanced effectively, with lovely colours and tones. Your figure set is one of the better ones from Tamiya, with great details, nice poses and all body parts in good proportions but still, they could easily be ruined by bad painting. Your figures, unsurprisingly, have been painted beautifully. Black uniforms aren't easy to 'pull off' fnar fnar but you've nailed them. I'd be interested to know which colour/mix you used for the dry-brushing? And your ruined building is most excellent. I am looking forward to everything coming together in a little dio. You do know that the building is going to be dwarfed though! Congrats again on producing a top-notch KT, a certain contender for the 'trophy'. Rearguards, Badder
  12. Hi Soeren, That's a lovely little scene you've made there, making good use of those odds and ends from your 'One day these may be useful for a diorama' stash. I too have the Tamiya ammo loading crew kit, but as yet I haven't made a 'summer' tank for them to load up, so they remain in their box. I have to say that when I opened my box I was rather disappointed because the the guy passing up the round has the largest hands and fingers of any 1/35th figure I've ever seen; so large that it put me off the idea of ever using him. But I must say that your figures look fantastic; well painted, well positioned and the huge hands don't jump out at me and scream 'huge hands!' Your Jagdpanther is well made and beautifully painted with an interesting camo scheme, and is a lovely addition to your set. And amongst your 'odds and ends' I do like how youve painted the donkey/mule. It's very hard to get some animal skins/furs looking realistic, but you've captured that shiny, slightly greasy coat perfectly. My only criticism would be that the Jagdpanther needs to be sunk into the mud, or have the mud oozed up beside and over the tracks. If you were too worried about pressing your model into wet plaster/clay to bed it in more realistically, you could do what I do and place clingfilm over the wet plaster/clay and then press your model down into it. You can then wait for the plaster/clay to start setting and then remove your model cleanly, without any plaster sticking to or dirtying the tracks. Once dry and painted, you can place your model in the ruts without 'sticking' it in place. Rearguards, Badder
  13. Work is continuing on this Tiger. I will get it to the state I originally envisaged. First off, I will get the air filtration system sorted. Here's the photo I've been using for reference: This photo appeared on page 2 of this thread, 'donated' by @Robert Stuart, I believe (thanks old bean). Prior to seeing this photo I had no idea that the Feifel air filtration system caused so much hassle when it came to accessing the engine bay and cooling fan compartments. In order to open the engine cover, firstly, the turret had to be turned 63 degrees to the right so that the cover could be lifted without fouling anything on the turret and even then, the rearmost spare track hanging on the RHS of the turret had to be removed. Next, all four air conduits had to be released from the clamps on the engine cover, and two of them then had to be disconnected from the air intake manifold. All four then had to be moved out of the way of the cover. Now, I've searched all over the web looking for photos showing this having been done, but apart from the photo above I've found none, so it's a bit of a guess as to how it was done exactly. However, in the photo above it can be seen that there is only one pipe coming from each of the filtration units . The uppermost pipe on each is 'missing', so I assume that these air conduit assemblies were disconnected at both ends and were removed completely and set aside. The remaining lower pipes don't have the conduits connected, so I assume that these conduits were unclamped from the engine cover and and were disconnected from the pipes, rather than disconnecting the entire assembly, and again, were put aside. When I first saw this photo, I saw those two tube-like objects which hang down beside the exhausts and thought that they were the metal 'innards' of the air conduits (that these were protected inside and were insulated by the outer lining) and that rather than being disconnected at both ends, they were disconnected from the manifold, had the outers removed and were swung out of the way to hang down off the rear of the tank. I now realise that these two tube-like objects are in fact tow cables! Now that I am more familiar with the tank, I've come to the conclusion that yes, the Tiger's air filtration system was a right PITA, and even more so when it also needed everything disconnecting in order to get to both of the fan bays. Anyway, I always intended to show my Tiger with the engine bay and one fan bay opened up. I did fully construct my air conduits in time to make it into the gallery, but now I realise that I'm going to have to break them up again! So, here's the air filtration unit after some messing about - all dry-fitted. As you can see, instead of removing the uppermost conduits completely, I've 'swivelled' them out of the way to hang down at the rear of the tank. I know they didn't do that in the photo above, but I suspect it was possible - even if it meant undoing them from their filtration units and then bolting them back on loosely (with one bolt) in the 'dangle' position. Surely it was better to 'store' them this way than have them be a trip hazzard on the engine deck/ground etc? Besides, it looks more interesting to my eye. And here they are with the engine cover opened. I still have to make allowances for opening the fan cover on the RHS - and that will probably mean having to remove the bottom pipe completely and put it aside. Oh potty, I've just realised that I will have to stick the conduit back onto its pipe AGAIN! In other news - the commander's cupola is fitted with 7 'vision blocks' which Tamiya would have you paint white. I wasn't sure what these vision blocks were - maybe they were white blocks with small slots in them corresponding to the slots in the outer ring? But I know now that they were in fact large solid blocks of clear glass. Blimey. And that there were cases of spare vision blocks stored within the turret. Blimey Crikey. I wonder how many 'vision blocks' were damaged by gunfire, shrapnel etc? The physical vision slots are barely penetrable with a chubby finger! Anyway, I didn't think the blocks would appear white as Tamiya would have it. But I wasn't going to replace them with clear plastic, or paint them sky blue, silver, or bottle green. I painted them gloss black. I've got a few bits and pieces left to do (periscopes on driver's and RO/bow gunner's hatches and those s-mine dischargers on the deck perimeter, and then I'll move on to the stripey whitewash. TFL Badder
  14. Hi Ian, I think you may have noticed two references to Skunk Anansie songs? Whatever, there's no such thing as luck in our hobby. There are many happy accidents though! Rearguards, Badder
  15. Congrats on another Stix Beauty. Aside from the lawn, the Tiger is looking lovely too. Rearguards, Badder
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