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Badder

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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

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About Badder

  • Birthday 03/28/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wiltshire
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Hi Pete, You're correct. I should have pointed out that the trunk itself isn't finished. Yes, it's got a gloss coat of varnish at the moment, but it will get some super-detailing of the bark, and moss and most probably some nails driven into it for kids to climb beofre washes and a final matt coat when it is ready for 'planting' in the diorama. Remember it'll be sunken into the ground a little bit at least. Plus, I'm still toying with the idea of adding a ladder and a treehouse/platform, OR adding a circular bench around the trunk. As for a bird, I have some, or 'a' pigeon/s somewhere. I was intending to have them/it soiling the roof of the building with their/its droppings and have considered them/it doing the same on the tree. We shall see. Rearguards, Badder.
  2. No probs. It's great to discover something 'by accident' and then share it and find that someone else finds it useful, even if its not model related. I'm calling the tree 'finished' btw, but haven't gotten around to posting the pics here yet. I have posted the tree in the RFI section though. I do think it's a diorama in its own right. Lol Of course, it's NOT ACTUALLY finished, it will get some more work done to it when I 'plant' it in the ground. Rearguards, Badder
  3. Thanks for that info, I will definitely get the Dragon figures then. If their winter uniforms are compatible with the 88 AND the Nashorn AND the SdKfz 7/1 Flakierling that will be super ace, saving a lot of hunting around! I shall watch your metling snow with great interest cos that's what my Pit Stop Dio will have. I've seen your winter StuG dio and that was excellent, but seeing a larger area of snow/slush/muck will be very educational. Cheers, Badder
  4. Thought I'd change my avatar and confuse everyone for a while. lol. Artwork was a 'band mascot' called 'Hacker' designed and painted by me for a local heavy metal band back in the late 80's early 90's. He featured on all of their merchandise in many guises over the years. Here was a later appearance, as a 'Jack in the box' for a cassette album cover. Yes of course, he was Eddie's cousin.

  5. A great idea carried out excellently. I watched many episodes as a kid, but never saw the many I missed as we didn't have VCRs. I mean, even cassette recorders had record/play/ff and rewind keys the same size as those on pianos. lol. But during lockdown, thanks to those who bothered to keep the original tapes, or record them onto modern formats, I was able to watch the whole lot, start to finish in about a week. It was a great series for the most part, but ultimately of course, I was hugely disappointed when the later episodes went massively downhill, resorting to farcical situations such as Straker driving around the actual studio grounds in a Banana Splits buggy being shot at. And the final episode......... well.......... the less said about that the better. Still, the Jetstream did stick in my memory for being an actual thing rather than a model, so it's great to see it replicated here. When I read the title of this post I was half expecting to see that Banana Splits buggy parked up somewhere on the airfield lol. Memories. Rearguards, Badder
  6. As there is no forum dedicated to 'Vegetation' or other sub-components for dioramas, I thought I'd post this finished tree here. Building this tree has been an epic journey to say the least and I think it deserves it's own little place outside of a diorama WIP. Unless admin think otherwise, in which case feel free to delete it. lol. But I'm calling this tree DONE. (Knowing that it's NOT done. It will get stuff added to it in the future, when it's time to fit it to the base) Anyone who has been following my 'Ever Evolvin' Diorama' WIP and indeed my 'Pit Stop' WIP, will know just how much time and effort I've put into trying to build as realistic a tree as I can, whilst ALSO ensuring it is highly resistant to such things as being vacuum-cleaned, or blasted with air to clear it of dust, cobweb, and arboreal cats. This tree is just that. I've also dropped it many times, by accident, and have combed the foliage, bent branches back and forth, up and down, side to side, opening or closing up the canopy in order to achieve the 'best look' with no damage done, whatsoever. The tree will basically out-live me. The 'twigs/foliage are made from, believe it or not, around 900m of 6lb breaking-strain nylon monofilament fishing line (Maxima brand) It's true that your intestines are 26km long but folded into your abdomen very compactly lol, The tree's branches are made from a wire-cored garden twine which has some kind straw-like plant/fibre coating and are connected to the armature of the tree, the trunk and boughs of which consist of a Y-shaped cutting from a hedgerow (after the farmer had trimmed his bush (Oooh er) with a tractor-mounted chainsaw (Ouch) Additional lengths of the twine were then used to create the gnarly old bark on the trunk and lower boughs. The colours used where Olive Green, Red Earth, Sepia and Black, all Daler Rowney 'FW' acrylic inks. An amount of Olive Green Japanese 'Grit Paint' was also used to impart some texture to the fishing line to hint at the conifer's 'needles' Lashings of Thin, Medium and Thick CA glue were used as were gloss and matt varnishes. I've included a 1/35th figure to show the scale, but the tree stands about 13inches tall. Anyone wanting to know the method of construction and materials used, will find details in my 'Ever Evolvin' Dio WIP in the Diorama's forum, where the method itself evolves over time. Look for yourself, or message me and I'll provide a direct link.............. I'm a luddite and don't know how to do the 'click here' or 'find it ''here'' stuff lol. I also have a vid on my channel which is linked at the bottom of this post. BTW, I won't be making a another large tree again, any time soon, but might poke around some bushes. The figure is an old one which I use as a scale for buildings, has been handled with greasy fingers and is not representitive of my figure-work now. I suspect I may be worse now than I was back then lol. Comments, questions and criticisms good or bad are welcomed. Cheers Badder. BTW, I won't be making a another large tree again, any time soon, but might poke around some bushes.
  7. Hi Francis, Loving the dried mud with excellent colour, texture and a perfect soup├žon of vegetable matter! The leaves had to be there somewhere! Also, great photos once again, and thanks for adding the bird's eye view, which a lot of people seem to forget! Keep up the fantastic work, stay safe, Rearguards, Badder
  8. It's artificial.......................... but it looks so real. Mad as a box of replicant frogs. If you had been around in the 60's Sylvia and Gerry Anderson would have snapped you up. Rearguards, Badder
  9. Dunno how you do it Clive!? A neat idea, done great. It'd take me over a year to get that far. lol. Are those the Tamiya SdKfz 7 and 88mm kit combined, or another maker? I have both Tamiya kits, but I am after the figures for the winter uniformed 88mm crew. Are they the same as the crew for Tamiya's Flakveirling kit, or a separate kit, or what? The bridge kit looks great. I'd be making latex moulds of it. Could then cast new parts and make the bridge longer, and or wider. Looking forward to see what you do with the water............. cheat? Have most of it frozen over, and swept with snow? Maybe a hole in the ice where something went over the side of the bridge and is poking out? Back end of a tram? Or some guy fishing in the hole? lol Rearguards, Badder
  10. Starting from the bottom and working my way up, picture-wise, here's the trunk of the tree after the addition of a few more lengths of garden twine to make it more gnarled and wrinkly like my scrotum. I've deliberately created holes and fissures in amongst the roots, to make things a bit more interesting. Matt varnish and washes and some moss effects will finish this off. BTW I'm thinking about maybe banging a few nails into the trunk, and/or adding a ladder, and a decrepit tree house lol..... Upwards: Really, the tree's canopy is all pretty much 'adjustable' and I am constantly fiddling with the branches, clumps of foliage and the fishing line 'twigs'; closing the canopy, opening the canopy up, trying to decide which looks best and it's surprising how dense, or how airy it can look. I decided to go for the more 'closed' option. With that in mind I gave the foliage a good downwards blow with a hair drier set at its hottest setting, (Just for a few seconds) causing the line to go limp and 'droop' in a more vertical fashion before it cooled and set more rigid again. So, here, you may notice that more of the'twigs' hang down than did before, and decreases the size of the gaping holes in the canopy, in my opinion, anyway. With that done, I then decided to add a bit of texture to all of the 'twigs'using green acrylic 'Grit Paint'. I just used small spatula to smear it all over the twigs, then combed downwards through them. It's not very obvious that it's there, but it's there and once it dried it stiffened the twigs up some more. The next job was to re-apply Red Earth acrylic ink to the boughs, branches, twigs and trunk. No need to be fussy, I just poked the AB up inside the canopy and sprayed as best I could, directly upwards. In some places I sprayed in from the side through the gaps in the canopy. Whatever, the tree 'armature' was treated and a lot of the undersides of the culmps of foliage. And then I got the AB in there and toned a lot of the Red Earth down by spraying with Sepia-coloured acrylic ink. In places the Red Earth is much more apparant, in places it's been toned down to more of a brown and looks to me like old dried out, or dead twigs. I've just a little more to do with the Sepia and that'll be the canopy done, apart from the final coat of varnish. As you can see, the foliage is currently gloss/satin, but it might end up matt. I haven't decided. TFL Badder
  11. Hi Pete, How did you get on with the CA'd paper Banjo tuning peg bodge-job? I have certainly used CA'd paper to secure metal fittings onto things, and vice versa. I have a home made scribing block where I used CA'd paper to secure a metal scriber to a sliding collar on the upright post and it's done a grand job. Regards the Banjo, I'd be slightly worried about the constant retuning weakining the bond with the tuning peg - unless the metal peg has some raised or recessed detail on it to provide some bite? I would imagine the peg would have a screw thread on the end for the knob to screw onto, for example? If there is nothing to provide bite, I'd perhaps file a couple of rings around it. Rearguards, Badder
  12. Hi, yes, pouring resin water in layers is the thing to do for anything over 3mm deep. I could have provided a model-makers diorama type vid, but the info on this one is good and view is quite nice too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDtosWhm5lw BTW, if you were to want to fill your entire 'ditch' with water, dam each end of the ditch with plasticine, with plasticine/putty/clay stuck to the sides of the base. Once the resin is dry you can pull the plastince off and sand the ends of the resin. Hope that helps, Badder
  13. I know that endless photos of this tree, in all its versions, must be extremely boring, but it's all work in progress and some may even prefer the earlier versions, or may have come up with their own preferred method etc, so in my book, it's right to have shared it all. Whatever, the tree is nearly finished. I've added the last of the planned branch/twig assemblies, have bent and repositioned some of them to make a more pleasing look, have given the canopy a few sprays with greens, and have finished the construction of the trunk and root system. I will definitely add a few clumps of foliage here and there, just to hide some of the dodgier ones. Aside from that, all that's left to do is paint the trunk/roots and those last few clumps of foliage. On the subject of making this tree interchangeable with another, that will be made much easier if the tree itself is situated on raised ground within a circular dry-stone wall. Rather than havng to swap 2 trees over - meaning I'd have to ensure both trunks and root systems were identical - it's much easier to make 2 identical dry-stone circles. Anyhoooooo, the tree.......... First a pic of the tree with the last of the branch-twig assemblies added: :And here it is after spraying with green acrylic inks and a bit of a trim with scissors followed by a downwards comb with a dinner fork. Just for reference, the following photo was taken from roughly the same angle as the one above, Front lit, the canopy looks fairly thick, but back lit, you can see that there is actually a lot of space within the canopy: And finally, the trunk/root system: TFL Badder
  14. Hi Model Mate, Your assertion that you could have done with more resin water had me wonder just how much you lost due to leakage? 150ml should have been plenty enough. The lesson learned: ensure your groundwork, and diorama base and frame are all perfectly sealed before adding resin! I use neat PVA to seal the diorama board and the framework before even adding the groundwork. Once the groundwork is done, I seal the area to be 'watered' with dilute PVA adding a little apron of extra PVA up the 'banks' and framework if the water reaches the side of the frame. If I was really being fussy, I'd then add water to the area, check for leaks and plug any that occur. Usually though, I'm fairly confident there won't be any leaks, but just in case, I pour thin layers of resin at a time, checking for leaks with each pour. If there is a leak, I seal the leak on the outside with putty/plasticine and let the resin cure. That will fully plug the leak. I know what you mean about the heat, but Cyano glues will almost set fire to things as well! I've had wood, various fibres, and even my skin 'smoke' due to CA glues! lol. With regards to the moss I take it you soaked it in Glycerin (Glycol) for 2 weeks beforehand? I used moss many years ago for a dio and despite attempts to preserve it with PVA and varnishes it dried out, crumbled and fell to pieces within a year. I now soak it in Glycerin and I have some attached to the walls of a model building and it's almost as fresh as the day it was glued on, nearly 2years ago. (it may even be 3 years ago, my memory of the past year or two is fuzzy. lol) Whatever, your groundwork is superb and the dio itself looks great. My only criticism would be the road signs. They are warped and peeling and look to be made of paper stuck to cardboard. If they were more realistic that would lift the diorama to a new level. Rearguards, Badder
  15. Hi Francis, Apologies for my being a bit late to 'the show', but I feel like a little kid finding an unopened Christmas present which has been lost under his bed until summer time. lol. What a beauty! Others have mentioned it, but the tones you've chosen for the 3 colour camo are truly superb. You display new levels of skill and artistry with every new model. You are fast disappearing into the distance and I don't think I'll ever catch up! One question, if I may. Are the tracks 'rubber bands', individual plastic links, or metal? It's just that there are a couple of wonky links underneath, and whilst that's not an issue, it suggests to me they are not 'Friuls'. There is no model more deserving of Friuls than the Konigs Tiger. So, can we have another, and whilst your at it, in an ambush camo scheme? LOL. Rearguards and TC, Badder
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