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Badder

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Badder last won the day on October 30 2017

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

  • Rank
    Ronnie James Dio-rama fan
  • Birthday 28/03/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wiltshire
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Badder

    Tamiya easy 8

    Kind of you to say. I get the feeling that your modifications are going to be a lot neater and more precise than mine were! Looking forward to seeing more progress. Rearguards, Badder
  2. Ow do, Stix, I wrote a long reply to that, but you'll be happy to see that I deleted it. Basically, I'll figure something out..... and don't worry.... the building will have a proper, believable layout, and and wherever anything has collapsed, there will be the correct amount of rubble/debris! Rearguards, Badder
  3. Still farting about with the old building, trying to figure out how best to convert it for use in this diorama. There are a couple of issues to consider. Firstly, it's too tall for a two storey building... so I could convert it to 3 storeys (or at least 2 storeys and a large attic) That will require some work, plus the addition of an extension - otherwise the building will look odd AND staircases won't be easy to fit in. This would obviously increase the footprint of the building and decrease the space I have for the vehicles and snowy scenery. In fact the building would take up nearly half of the entire base. And I'm not particularly happy with that thought. Secondly, whether 2 storeys or 3, extended or not, the building is actually a bit too tall for the base I think. And it has that stupid asymmetrical shape, with one side wall being higher than the other and the roof ridge being off centre. Again the fault of MiniArt, who thought they were being quirky and clever, but weren't. I could chop down the higher side wall, remodel the gable wall and reposition the roof ridge so that the building is symmetrical. I'd still have to build an extension, but the overall height of the building would be lower, so it wouldn't look to be such a bulky part of the dio. Or I could forget about the old building and start from scratch...... hmmmmmm Or, I could forget about THIS diorama and convert my Ever Evolving Diorama into a winter one, and place the Sherman, Jeep and maybe some other vehicles in THAT one instead? THOUGHTS? Badder.
  4. What do you all think about me turning this into a winter diorama? I ask because I have this M4A3E8 'FACE OFF' Sherman completed and was going to make a diorama for it, but it would mean leaving this one on the back burner for a while. And actually I as yet have no completed AFVs to furnish this diorama. But I have the Sherman and a Willys Jeep that COULD go in it instead. It wouldnt be too hard to convert what I've done to fit a winter scene. The large tree could pass for an evergreen. The hedgerow, which I am no longer happy with, COULD be remade with leafless trees and bushes. The flowers would have to go, but the grass and ivy could remain. The stream could be iced over partly or fully or not at all.... Your thoughts on the subject? Rearguards, Badder
  5. What brand/manufacturer/product? I have a lot of resin in my earholes, but I doubt that's the right stuff. Rearguards, Badder
  6. Silly, silly, me! I saw the post go up but the 1/72nd tag put me off having a look (I was under time pressure and so only looked at the latest 1/35th offerings!) Well, no time pressure today, so I had a look, and I'm glad I did! What a superb diorama! Absolutely fantastic! The 'theme' isn't particularly original - I've seen similar - but yours is by far the best 'collapsed bridge' I've ever seen, in ANY scale! The bridge appears to have collapsed correctly, or at least, in a believable way, which is good. I wouldn't worry that the Famo is the heavier of the two components... the Famo weakened the bridge and the gun was the straw that broke the camel's back. BTW, that water looks lovely. What product did you use and has it dried solid and hard like glass or is it more rubbery? Again, a superb diorama. I almost don't believe it's in 1/72nd! Rearguards, Badder
  7. Great work Stix, Loving the tools/parts. I KNEW you'd get them looking good! I particularly like the wooden box thing with that grain showing. (I believe that box has something to do with jacks? - correct me if I'm wrong!) One question: Are you or have you ever thought about using a graphite stick/pencil for the track links, shovel, and other metal tools? Rearguards, Badder
  8. Hi chaps, Really, yes,Tamiya Acrylics diluted with water. To be precise, I transfer a blob of acrylic paint onto a plastic palette, then load a brush with water and mix it into one half of the blob of paint, and spread it out. I then work the other half of the blob into the water/paint mix so that I have a graded variation in water-paint mix from left to right. In other words I have ALMOST neat paint on one side tending towards increasingly thinned 'washes 'on the other. It's then a case of finding which mix works best. Often I'll use the middle mix and once dry go over with the thinner washes. Obviously I can add more paint and water to areas of the 'puddle' as required. As I said, previously (I'm talking 35 yrs ago) I found Tamiya acrylics APPAULING for brush painting in all aspects. Upon my return to the hobby I was blessed to own an airbrush and so gave the 'modern' acrylics a go for spraying base coats. I did find that they were much better for brush painting small details/parts but still awful for dry-brushing, but then I was using Tamiya Acrylic Thinners. and maybe that was the problem. TBH, I've not tried dry-brushing with watered-down acrylics as I've 'discovered' the 'reverse dry-brushing' technique and that works for me. Rearguards, Badder
  9. Badder

    Panther Ausf.A Late - Meng 1/35

    Typically lovely work Andy. You sure have patience and more importantly nimble fingers when it comes to those tracks! Rearguards, Badder
  10. Thanks for your patience and for popping back to have another look Pete! I'm pretty sure it was a glitch with IMGUR. Rearguards, Badder
  11. Bumper/wire cutter assembly held in place with spit, hence slightly wonky. Wheels, mounted MG, also not fixed in place yet. Bonnet remains unfixed as I may show it in the open or partly open position. Final pic for now... the underside. With the underside being hidden from sight, I mostly used the OD'd chassis as a 'playground', experimenting with effects that can be achieved purely with acrylics and powders, as washes or applied neat, and with lots of 'rubbing back' with a dry stiff brush, or a wet stiff brush. TFL Badder. ps I shall probably go back and edit out a lot of the exasperated stuff!
  12. Windscreen down. Not sure how much I'm going to dirty that up yet. Mud/snow will be added to some extent later on. Rifle and MG given the same treatment as the shovel and axe, except that the metal parts were painted soley with black acrylic ink. Okay, for those who, like me, always wondered what the upright 'girder' is doing on the bumper.... these were 'wire cutter's placed there as guards against piano wire which the Germans used to stretch across roads and tracks in order to decapitate allied troops! Nice.
  13. The floor was given a similar treatment to the seat covers, but with the gloss varnish confined mostly to the driver's footwell.
  14. I wanted the driver's seat to look more used than the passenger's seat, and both to look more used than the rear bench seat. All were given a spray with OD, then over-painted with Tamiya Acrlic Khaki. I then messed about with both ink and weathering powder washes, dry brushing with powders, gloss varnish and rubbing back with a stiff dry brush. The gloss is most visible around the edges of the seat covers where the fabric would be worn most. There are some darker stains here and there, but they aren't showing up so well in the photos.
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