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Everything posted by Badder

  1. TAMIYA 1/35th WILLYS MB JEEP OOB COMPONENT FOR DIORAMA 'PIT STOP' TO COMPLIMENT SHERMAN M4A3E8 FEATURED IN RFI 'FACE OFF'. This was one of those 'spur of the moment' purchases from Hobbycraft whilst popping in to buy a single pot of acrylic paint. I had seen it on the shelf during previous visits and almost bought it then, purely for the figure and the small amount of stowage/tools/weapons that came with the kit. I had thought that they might be useful additions to my Sherman Easy Eight. In the end I didn't buy it then because actually they weren't that relevant to my Sherman. However, I later came to realise that the Jeep itself would make a good companion for said Sherman in the forthcoming diorama 'Pit Stop'. I am still considering other larger vehicles as components for that diorama, but for now, I am happy with the Jeep. We shall see.... The kit instructions suggest 5 versions of the Jeep, most notably one of the 7th Armoured Division 814th Tank Destroyer Battalion, Reconnaissance Company No.22, which was present in Belgium in Jan '45. My Sherman is based on one which was present in the Bastogne area (Belgium) at that same time. Whether the Sherman and Jeep could have met in real life isn't something I've researched, but I'm pretending that they did. Whilst my Sherman is sporting worn winter camo, I doubted that the Jeep would have been given a whitewash and so stuck to the OD. The finished model here is shown OOB, but I will be adding some more stowage - and will be applying mud and snow when the time comes to plonk it in the diorama. The model was painted using Tamiya Acrylics thinned with water, for both brush and airbrush, AND Daler Rowney Acrylic Inks, either neat or again watered down. Humbrol Dark Earth Weathering Powder was also employed, again watered down for washes, but was sometimes mixed with the Inks to achieve differing colours/tones. The powder was also used dry to create 'leather/canvas' effects on the seat covers IT MIGHT BE INTERESTING TO NOTE THAT NO ENAMELS WERE USED AT ALL ON THIS MODEL.... a first for me! Also, no varnishes were used to seal layers or aid the application of washes. Gloss varnish WAS used in places to give the model a wet appearance, but mostly a 'shiny/wet' effect was achieved by polishing the paint surfaces with a stiff dry brush. Any futher 'wet effects' will be added at the diorama stage. PHOTOS: please note that there are many more to add, but I'm having serious Interupternet issues and it's taking an age to upload them to my hosting site, and yes, I know I haven't fitted the steering wheel! https://i.imgur.com/eQZGHvt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xzmn2Wj.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ys0chFi.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DK457YS.jpg One last thing... I always pondered the purpose of the upright 'girders' stuck on the front bumpers of some Jeeps. Having read the instruction sheet, I now know. If you don't know, and want a 'heads up' just ask. It has something to do with pianos. TFL Badder
  2. Hi peeps, This is just a place-holder for an upcoming winter diorama featuring my entry for the M3-M4 STGB, Tamiya's 1/35th M4A3E8 Easy Eight. I am starting this thread now because my 'FACE OFF' Sherman is nearing completion... AT LAST. I'd got it to a stage where I could call it 'Finished' for entry into the GB Gallery, but always intended to carry on with it afterwards. It's taken more time than I had thought, mostly because I've been building/painting models every day for well over a year and a half now and after the GB I needed to slow things right down! (Oh, I still have the figures to do, but there's no hurry for those.) For those who didn't follow the GB, my Sherman was inspired by a Sherman that was active in the Bastogne region during the Battle of the Bulge and photographed in January. The Sherman had extra armour added to the glacis - in fact it had almost an entire donor glacis bolted and welded over its own. It also had armour added to the turret cheeks. There were also signs of it having once been whitewashed, but the whitewash had been.... er... washed off. My Sherman depicts the Easy Eight in an earlier state, with full, but heavily worn and dirtied winter camo at the onset of warmer weather and the start of the thaw. The diorama will depict the Sherman at a 'pit stop'. Snow will feature heavily, but so will mud and puddles as the thaw was quite rapid. I did consider using a mostly scratchbuilt ruined house as a scenic piece.... which I originally made for my 'Ever Evolving Diorama'... but it may be too large for the size of base I envisaged. I may up the size of the dio if I can't get it to look right on the base I have now. Anyway, I have a bit more work to do on the Sherman, so I'll say 'I hope to see you here soon'. Rearguards, Badder Just to whet your appetites, here's the 'nearly finished' Sherman (sans figures, aerial, kit bag on the glacis and two guard plates on the front fenders) ......in a scale winter setting.......
  3. Still farting about with the old building, trying to figure out how best to convert it for use in this diorama. There are a couple of issues to consider. Firstly, it's too tall for a two storey building... so I could convert it to 3 storeys (or at least 2 storeys and a large attic) That will require some work, plus the addition of an extension - otherwise the building will look odd AND staircases won't be easy to fit in. This would obviously increase the footprint of the building and decrease the space I have for the vehicles and snowy scenery. In fact the building would take up nearly half of the entire base. And I'm not particularly happy with that thought. Secondly, whether 2 storeys or 3, extended or not, the building is actually a bit too tall for the base I think. And it has that stupid asymmetrical shape, with one side wall being higher than the other and the roof ridge being off centre. Again the fault of MiniArt, who thought they were being quirky and clever, but weren't. I could chop down the higher side wall, remodel the gable wall and reposition the roof ridge so that the building is symmetrical. I'd still have to build an extension, but the overall height of the building would be lower, so it wouldn't look to be such a bulky part of the dio. Or I could forget about the old building and start from scratch...... hmmmmmm Or, I could forget about THIS diorama and convert my Ever Evolving Diorama into a winter one, and place the Sherman, Jeep and maybe some other vehicles in THAT one instead? THOUGHTS? Badder.
  4. Unfortunately, HostingPics, my image host, is shutting down. I have a 'few months' in which to retrieve and replace my photos. I am in that process now, but obviously with so many pages and photos to edit, it may be that at some point the links will be 'dead'. Bear with me, because I do intend to replace them before or after that happens. Pics replaced up to and including page 42. ATTENTION! ANYONE WHO HAS FOLLOWED ONE OF MY DIORAMA WIPs WILL KNOW THAT THEY TEND TO EVOLVE OVER TIME! THEREFORE IT WILL COME AS NO SURPRISE THAT THE ENTIRE THEME OF THIS DIORAMA HAS CHANGED, AS OF TODAY, 24/01/17. WHISLT THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MINIART BUILDING (WITH MOULDS AND CASTINGS) CONTINUES AS PREDICTED THE SETTING FOR THE DIO IS NO LONGER A WINTER ONE, AND THE FEATURED VEHICHLE IS NO LONGER A STuG III. SO, THE 'WINTER TREE' FEATURED IN THIS THREAD WILL NO LONGER APPEAR IN THIS DIO. APART FROM THAT AND THE PROLOGUE/THEME PARAGRAPHS, THE THREAD CAN BE READ AS IS, AND ALL OTHER CONTENT IS STILL RELEVENT. FOR THOSE WHO ARE UPSET ENOUGH TO WANT TO KNOW WHY, THE REASONS ARE LISTED ON PAGE 9, MY SINCERE APOLOGIES BADDER ATTENTION AGAIN! 28/01/17 I DECIDED TO DOUBLE THE SIZE OF THE BASE, SO NOW THERE'S ROOM FOR ANOTHER BUILDING. For the fourth time of trying... grrrr.... at interrupternet. Where's the Autosave function gone? PROLOGUE Having just completed my StuG III I now find myself with three finished AFV's sitting on the shelf with no bases. Now, when I joined BM I was determined not to move onto a new project until I had completed the current one, and that was to include a diorama for each. I am now three dioramas behind, or four if I count my dismantled Viller Bocage diorama which is waiting for a re-build. So, how better to remedy the situation that to build a diorama for the AFV most fresh in my mind? THEME: It was about 1975 when I first started building models, inspired as I was by my elder cousin's Tamiya SAS Jeep, Tamiya Sd.Kfz 222 armoured car and Tamiya Pink Panther Landrover (you can see a theme developing here). And I positively drooled over the Tamiya Catalogues, or more precisely the Francois Verlinden dioramas featured therein. So, upon my return to model-making 35yrs later I had in my head those wonderful Verlinden dioramas. I could recall them all, in fairly good detail and one related to a StuG IV. It was photographed laid up in an ambush position, observing the lowland fields from within the ruins of a farm building. I want to pay homage to that diorama, although mine will be set in winter, in the Ardennes during the Battle of the Bulge. Oh, and of course, mine is a Dragon StuG III, but that's another story. Anyway, a quick look at the title will tell you that there's going to be a bit more to this diorama than was evident in Francois Verlinden's and anyone who saw my entry to the Vignette GB will guess that this one is also going to feature a pig, only one that is somewhat larger and more ferocious. The 'ambushers' will in fact become the 'ambushed' or 'hambushed' hopefully, with humourous consequences. Aaaah the luxury of having time to plan a diorama rather than rush a vignette and make compromises! So, that's the theme and title sorted. MATERIALS: I will add to this list as each material comes to be used. I believe I have all the materials I require, but I may run out of some along the way. For now though, I will be starting on the base and basic structures with: MDF board roughly 80cm x 60cm Pine battens. Balsa wood. 2mm. Privet Hedge 'Branch' MiniArt 'Ruined Village House'. MinArt 'Ardennes Building' Plasticard sheets of varying thickness. Semi-transparent 'white' Plastic Milk Container. Thin card. Graph paper. Grass mat. Corrugated cardboard. High density polystyrene sheet. Bryant and May extra long safety matches. Bar-be-quick giant safety matches. Toothpicks. Balsa 'stick' from a spent firework rocket. Diamond patterned rubber mat (the kind you might find lining the tray in the dashboard of a commercial vehicle for example) Coffee stirring sticks. WIRES, FISHING LINES. 'Brass' picture hanging wire. Maxima Nylon Monofilament Fishing line in spools of 100m.... 12lb, 10lb, 6lb, 2lb breaking strains. Drennan Braided Fishing Line 6lb breaking strain. Green. Drennan Micro Braid Hooklength Line 5lb breaking strain, silver and black spiralled thread. PVA glue CA glue, thin, medium and thick. Liquid Poly. Squadron Products Green Putty. Plaster of Paris. Polyfilla. Liquid Latex. Sellotape. Miliput. Humbrol Enamels. Humbrol Weathering Powders. Humbrol Washes. Tamiya Acrylics. Japanese 'Grit Paints' MIG Pigments. Daler and Rowney Acrylic Artists Inks. Winsor and Newton Watercolours. Winsor and Newton Galeria gloss, satin and matt varnishes. SCATTERS/EFFECTS: Plaster of Paris dust (that is Plaster of Paris which has set solid and then been scraped away to form dust) As such, it acts much more like weathering powder than it does 'talcum powder'. Bart's Dill Tops. Bart's Chervil. Bart's Basil. Peco Scene Static Grass. Woodland Scenics Static Grass in Light, Medium and Dark Green, Straw Yellow. Woodland Scenics 'Yellow Grass' (scatter) Woodland Scenics 'Field Grass', in Dark, Mid and Light Green, and 'Harvest Gold'. Woodland Scenics 'Underbrush' in Dark and Light Green. Cat litter. RP leaf punches: Maple, oak, lime, beech, in scales 1/16, 1/24th, 1/35th 1/48th Non-standard tools: 'Snowflake' paper punch from Hobbycraft for manufacturing 'ivy leaves'. 'Chain of 3 snowflakes' paperpunch 'Lace-doily' pattern paperpunch That's it for now. If anyone follows this thread, I hope you find at least a few nuggets of helpful information. I will also welcome any advice/tips/criticisms. Thanks, Badder THE FOLLOWING LIST OF 'CHAPTERS' IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION, BUT WILL GIVE PAGE NUMBERS AND CONTENTS. I'VE TRIED TO BREAK THE THREAD UP INTO CHAPTERS EACH CONTAINING A SPECIFIC 'THEME' SO THAT READERS CAN 'ZOOM IN' ON THOSE THAT INTEREST THEM, AND SKIP THOSE THAT DON'T. PLEASE NOTE THAT THE LIST WON'T BE CORRECT UNTIL IT HAS BEEN COMPLETED AND CHECKED. CHATPER ONE. PAGES 1-3 MiniArt 'Ruined Village House'. It should be noted that this building was made prior to the purchase of the MiniArt Ardennes building, which ultimately supplanted it. Making latex moulds of kit parts. Casting copies of kit parts in plaster of Paris. How to quickly and easily remove vacu-formed parts from their backing. Using kit parts and casts to construct a larger ruined building. Joining hollow plastic vacu-formed parts to plaster parts using CA-doused cardboard and paper to increase the contact areas and strengthen the model. Pages 3-4 Painting, weathering, adding moss (herbs) and other details to the building. NOT USED IN THE DIORAMA DUE TO CHANGE OF SCENARIO: Page 4 Making a 'winter tree' from real twigs. Making 'ivy' using Silver Birch 'catkins' and paper leaves made with a 'snowflake' paper punch. Snow effects using CA and Bicarbonate of Soda. Pages 4-5 More work on painting and weathering the building. Pages 5-7 Making a fireplace and chimney stack from plaster parts cast from Tamiya's Brick Wall Set and the Miniart building. Painting and weathering of fireplace and chimney. Soot and burnt hearth. Moss using 'Grit Paint'. Using paper to emulate old plaster. Pages 7-8 A quick and easy method of making corrugated iron from corrugated cardboard, with the assistance of Thin CA. Pages 8- More work on the building Tea leaves as wall 'creepers' CHAPTER TWO Pages 10- MINIART 'ARDENNES BUILDING Cutting, removing, fitting and reinforcing vacu-formed parts. Correcting mistakes in the kit with regards to fit. Making moulds of the kit's walls and roof, casting and constructing new walls and roofing to create a whole building. Page 22- Creating a heavily weathered whitewashed wall. Making 'ivy' leaves using Hobbycraft 'snowflake' paper punch. Fixing ivy to the walls. CHAPTER THREE Page 27- THE BIG TREE Scratch building a large tree using my nylon monofilament fishing line method. Real twig armature. Wire-cored Gardener's Twine used to create branches, each holding bunches of fishing line 'twigs'. Dipping bunches of 'twigs' in CA and herbs and attaching to the armature. CHAPTER FOUR Page 32- STARTING TO ADD COMPONENTS TO THE DIORAMA BASE. Constructing a hedgerow 'off the diorama'. Metal gauze embedded in plaster to aid static grass application.Sea Foam bushes and trees. Fishing line plants. Flowers made from paper punch 'off cuts'. Page 34- Fixing hedgerow to the base. Making a stream bed. (A Mill Race) Mill Race 'walls' from Plaster cast brickwork. Astroturf for marginal rushes. (Reedmace) How to make streamer weeds using cotton wool and CA. Sluice gate. 'Marigolds' and water plants made using paper punches. CHAPTER FIVE. Page 36- THE GRASSY BANK AND BARBED WIRE FENCE. Opposite bank with metal guaze embedded to aid static grass application. Applying static grass. Making a realistic barbed-wire fence using braided fishing line for the main wiring and nylon monofilament fishing line for barbs. Tamiya 'fence posts' from their Barricade Set. Flowering the bank. Gauzing and plastering the track area. Painting the track area. (undercoat) CHAPTER ELEVEN. CHATPER TWELVE. CHAPTER THIRTEEN. CHAPTER FOURTEEN. CHAPTER FIFTEEN. CHAPTER SIXTEEN. CHAPTER SEVENTEEN. CHAPTER EIGHTEEN. CHAPTER NINETEEN. CHAPTER TWENTY.
  5. What do you all think about me turning this into a winter diorama? I ask because I have this M4A3E8 'FACE OFF' Sherman completed and was going to make a diorama for it, but it would mean leaving this one on the back burner for a while. And actually I as yet have no completed AFVs to furnish this diorama. But I have the Sherman and a Willys Jeep that COULD go in it instead. It wouldnt be too hard to convert what I've done to fit a winter scene. The large tree could pass for an evergreen. The hedgerow, which I am no longer happy with, COULD be remade with leafless trees and bushes. The flowers would have to go, but the grass and ivy could remain. The stream could be iced over partly or fully or not at all.... Your thoughts on the subject? Rearguards, Badder
  6. What brand/manufacturer/product? I have a lot of resin in my earholes, but I doubt that's the right stuff. Rearguards, Badder
  7. Silly, silly, me! I saw the post go up but the 1/72nd tag put me off having a look (I was under time pressure and so only looked at the latest 1/35th offerings!) Well, no time pressure today, so I had a look, and I'm glad I did! What a superb diorama! Absolutely fantastic! The 'theme' isn't particularly original - I've seen similar - but yours is by far the best 'collapsed bridge' I've ever seen, in ANY scale! The bridge appears to have collapsed correctly, or at least, in a believable way, which is good. I wouldn't worry that the Famo is the heavier of the two components... the Famo weakened the bridge and the gun was the straw that broke the camel's back. BTW, that water looks lovely. What product did you use and has it dried solid and hard like glass or is it more rubbery? Again, a superb diorama. I almost don't believe it's in 1/72nd! Rearguards, Badder
  8. Great work Stix, Loving the tools/parts. I KNEW you'd get them looking good! I particularly like the wooden box thing with that grain showing. (I believe that box has something to do with jacks? - correct me if I'm wrong!) One question: Are you or have you ever thought about using a graphite stick/pencil for the track links, shovel, and other metal tools? Rearguards, Badder
  9. Hi chaps, Really, yes,Tamiya Acrylics diluted with water. To be precise, I transfer a blob of acrylic paint onto a plastic palette, then load a brush with water and mix it into one half of the blob of paint, and spread it out. I then work the other half of the blob into the water/paint mix so that I have a graded variation in water-paint mix from left to right. In other words I have ALMOST neat paint on one side tending towards increasingly thinned 'washes 'on the other. It's then a case of finding which mix works best. Often I'll use the middle mix and once dry go over with the thinner washes. Obviously I can add more paint and water to areas of the 'puddle' as required. As I said, previously (I'm talking 35 yrs ago) I found Tamiya acrylics APPAULING for brush painting in all aspects. Upon my return to the hobby I was blessed to own an airbrush and so gave the 'modern' acrylics a go for spraying base coats. I did find that they were much better for brush painting small details/parts but still awful for dry-brushing, but then I was using Tamiya Acrylic Thinners. and maybe that was the problem. TBH, I've not tried dry-brushing with watered-down acrylics as I've 'discovered' the 'reverse dry-brushing' technique and that works for me. Rearguards, Badder
  10. Badder

    Panther Ausf.A Late - Meng 1/35

    Typically lovely work Andy. You sure have patience and more importantly nimble fingers when it comes to those tracks! Rearguards, Badder
  11. Thanks for your patience and for popping back to have another look Pete! I'm pretty sure it was a glitch with IMGUR. Rearguards, Badder
  12. Bumper/wire cutter assembly held in place with spit, hence slightly wonky. Wheels, mounted MG, also not fixed in place yet. Bonnet remains unfixed as I may show it in the open or partly open position. Final pic for now... the underside. With the underside being hidden from sight, I mostly used the OD'd chassis as a 'playground', experimenting with effects that can be achieved purely with acrylics and powders, as washes or applied neat, and with lots of 'rubbing back' with a dry stiff brush, or a wet stiff brush. TFL Badder. ps I shall probably go back and edit out a lot of the exasperated stuff!
  13. Windscreen down. Not sure how much I'm going to dirty that up yet. Mud/snow will be added to some extent later on. Rifle and MG given the same treatment as the shovel and axe, except that the metal parts were painted soley with black acrylic ink. Okay, for those who, like me, always wondered what the upright 'girder' is doing on the bumper.... these were 'wire cutter's placed there as guards against piano wire which the Germans used to stretch across roads and tracks in order to decapitate allied troops! Nice.
  14. The floor was given a similar treatment to the seat covers, but with the gloss varnish confined mostly to the driver's footwell.
  15. I wanted the driver's seat to look more used than the passenger's seat, and both to look more used than the rear bench seat. All were given a spray with OD, then over-painted with Tamiya Acrlic Khaki. I then messed about with both ink and weathering powder washes, dry brushing with powders, gloss varnish and rubbing back with a stiff dry brush. The gloss is most visible around the edges of the seat covers where the fabric would be worn most. There are some darker stains here and there, but they aren't showing up so well in the photos.
  16. Hi Stix, I needed some stick from docs,, and writing stuff about my mistake inuslin regime here .in public,. is just another method of making me to get my bottom in gear! So far, I've done very well, with my blood sugar levels down into single figures for the most part of each day. Previously I was usually in the mid to high teens! If I can keep this up (which is actually quite a chore) I could be lengthening my life expectancy! Anyway, that aside, I've been trying to post pics from Imgur, and succeeded with just 2. Not sure if it's Imgur, my laptop or BM, but for some reason the direct links aren't working most of the time. I've resorted to trying all kinds of links, with no success. I will try again later after I boot my laptop. Physically boot it, with my boot! Hope you and the better half are well, Rearguards, Badder
  17. https://i.imgur.com/Wv65zTE.jpg https://imgur.com/Wv65zTE [Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/Wv65zTE.jpg)
  18. https://i.imgur.com/Wv65zTE.jpg I give up.
  19. Got no idea why links aren't working... trying both iimage link and direct link and sometimes neither work. https://i.imgur.com/Wv65zTE.jpg
  20. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!! Well, this link worked for once! Shovel and axe were sprayed OD, then given several Red Earth Acrylic Ink wash over the wooden parts. I then used Humbrol Dark Earth Weathering Powder as a 'polish', rubbing it into the 'wood' with a stiff dry brush. This stained the ink and also polished it, giving a nice effect I think. The metal parts of the shovel and axe were given a coat of Tamiya Acrylic Metallic Grey, then a wash with Black Acrylic ink, then a rubbing over with a graphite stick. Gloss varnish was applied over the graphite, but as is usual, the graphite dulled right down. I applied more graphite and tried sealing it (with its shine) with thin CA. This was more successful than the varnish coat. But I did go over it all again with the graphite stick. The MG was painted purely with Black Acrylic Ink, with no undercoat. Interestingly, there were sink marks on either side of the breach, but I filled these in by pooling the ink into the depressions and letting it dry before applying more. The ink was self-levelling, which made the job a breeze. Once the MG was dry I rubbed over it with a stiff dry brush, 'polishing it up', but this time without any powders. The wheels were sprayed OD, then the hubs were masked with Blu-Tac and the tyres sprayed with Tamiya Dark Iron. A black Acrylic Ink was was then applied to the hubs and, once dry, rubbed over with a stiff wet brush, taking off some of the ink and bringing out the raised detials in a kind of 'reverse dry-brushing'. A coat of watered down gloss varnish was washed over the wheels/tyres (and likewise over all of the body panels)
  21. EXCUSE ME WHILE I LOSE MY TEMPER https://i.imgur.com/51AYrq6.jpg
  22. https://i.imgur.com/51AYrq6.jpg https://imgur.com/51AYrq6