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Everything posted by Badder

  1. Right, one thing that's been a niggle about this building: the gable wall, the MiniArt gable wall, the gable wall which inspired and was the 'seed' for this ruined building. It wasn't perfectly perpendicular in one corner; didn't stand super straight, was a wee bit wonky, this wall. It wasn't MiniArt's fault. It was mine. When I glued their vacuformed 'hollow' wall to my plaster inner wall it was pulled slightly out of shape in one corner. I never noticed this until after I'd attached the side walls and was deep into the construction of the rest of the building. The deformation wasn't great: 4 millimetres off the perpendicular between the top and bottom of the wall, and most would no doubt overlook it. But I never could. So I finally decided to fix it. The wonky corner can be seen below, on the right. I worked out that the easiest was was to slice into the vacuformed wall's top left corner, along the roof slope and also down to the ground. A steel ruler was pushed into the hollow cavity and was used to break glue bonds and lever the top corner of the wall outwards until it was perpendicular. The hollow was then stuffed with folded bits of pape until this held the face of the wall in the correct position. CA was then dribbled over the paper, fixing everything together securely. The gaps are being filled with putty. Of course, the wall is now thicker than it was at the top of the corner, but I'm going to hide it under roof tiles, so it doesn't matter. TFL Badder
  2. Hi Ian, Welcome to the Dioramas Forum. We're all nutters in here, but not as nutty as model railway scales. I have no idea what scale 009 is, but I'm guessing it's tiddly. With that in mind, I think your 'salvaging' of the Matador is great and it will add some nice detail to your father's layout. I particularly like the weathering, very effective at such a small scale. I also like the tarp and scrap on the load bed. The weeds growing around the Matador are fairly good, but there's a couple of issues that I personally would sort out because I have OCD when it comes to getting things to look 'right'. First, all of your 'plants' are of the exact same colour and form, and so appear to be the same species. This would not be impossible in nature, but it does look a bit odd, so I would add a bit of variation. I would dab individual plants with dilute PVA first and then sprinkle them with crushed Dill Tops or Basil. The herbs are already crushed, but I would crush them further. Alternatively, I'd apply different hues of green with light brushing/airbrushing/spattering. Finally, the bushy plants on the bonnet don't look right at all. Plants need soil to grow in, and there's none on a vehicle bonnet. Moss could grow on there, slowly over time, and creepers like ivy could take root in the ground below and climb their way up there as well, so if it were my model I'd remove the bushy stuff and go for the moss and ivy look. For the moss I'd just use green paint, as a wash and also stippled on, and for the ivy I'd think about using crushed herbs again, but this time applying individual 'leaves' to the model with a toothpick and gluing them on in an ivy-leaf pattern. Of course, I'm being VERY fussy for something so small, but I always offer such advice in the hoping that someone may find it useful now, or in the future. I'm sure your father will be/was delighted with your contribution and any future ones. Rearguards, Badder Badder
  3. I took a short break away from this diorama, to make a brief visit to the building in my Pit Stop diorama. Returning to that building, I've now remembered why I came to a halt with it. A few things about it were niggling me, the main things being the interior floor levels and the fact that only a few of the windows are the same size and some seem to me to be too high above floor level. So in a way, the niggles are connected. Anyway, I've re-visualized the floor levels and have come up with a solution that kills two birds with one stone, or at the very least, gives them concussion. I'll be turning the upper 'bedroom' into a split level floor which is higher in one half of the room than the other. The bedroom's main window was at nipple height, but with the raised floor will be at waist height, whilst the floor in the other half of the room, with restricted headroom, will be lowered to increase that headroom. I can then fit a couple of dormer windows at that end and add some needed interest in that section of the building. But, what's that got to do with this Ever Evolvin' Dio? Well, not a lot really, except that in this dio, I've removed the bars from the rear ground floor windows, and WAS going to refit them. I've now decided to scratch windows instead, and will donate the bars from this dio to the Pit Stop dio. The 'bars' are actually MiniArt wrought iron gates, and they will now serve as gates. The upshot of all this is that I have rather a lot of windows to make..... 2 for this dio and 9 or 10 for the Pit Stop dio! I'm hoping that 6 or 7 of those windows will be the same size., for whilst some of the windows in the Pit Stop dio were made from casts taken from THIS building, the vagaries of Plaster of Paris mean that there are variations in shrinkage during drying. I may be able to get around that by making those particular window frames the same size and make up for any size variation by increasing/decreasing the thickness of the window casements. Ho hum. TFL Badder
  4. Hi GRK, I use the AB to apply Winsor and Newton's matt varnish. I spray it neat, with a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution CR plus 2in1 with the 0.4 needle and difuser cap fitted. But, I do use both the 0.4 and 0.2 needles with the 'normal' needle caps for targeted varnishing and have had no problems with clogging as I make sure to flush everything out multiple times during any session. I will say that their gloss varnish is not so good. It does cause problems with clogging unless diluted with water, and then of course, it doesn't 'gloss' so easily and needs several coats. In truth, I should look for a different gloss varnish. As for 'clogging it up and knackering' yours, I had the same fears when I bought mine, but now I don't. Regular flushing through, and removal and cleaning of the needle will normally suffice, but if I get lazy and leave my AB sitting for too long and it does clog up, I have one of those little cleaning kits that will unblock any clogged nozzle if used correctly and with care. Rearguards, Badder PS. i only spray acrylic paints, acrylic inks and acrylic varnishes with my AB. I don't spray enamels.
  5. Thanks Stix, It's a bit of a drag looking at everything that I did way back when, and thinking, 'Could I do this better now?' because in most cases, I can! There are a few things I won't be improving though, or I'd end up doing the whole lot. So, with regards to this building, it's done, apart from the addition of the drainpipe at the rear (which I have still to find) and some more creepers around the 'cupboard under the stairs' which I'm going to leave until the house is ready for fixing to the base. So, I'll be moving onto the groundwork next, and that'll mean returning to the re-building/improving of the hedgerow. Rearguards, Badder So,
  6. Today I finished off the whitewash effect on the rear wall. From this: To this: .... where 'Dick' cloth and a scalpel balanced the whites on the window surrounds with those on the wall itself. Amazing what exposing patches of plaster can do! I decided not to add any more plants just yet, because the building will still need to be handled, and I need one clear wall to pick it up by. You'll notice that the other window bars have been removed so that the two windows now providing a safe grip! I moved on to the other gable wall and tidied up some details. First, I treated the roof of the extension so as to match the main roof. Those edge tiles need the joints clearing out along the bottom edge. I rubbed back the corrugated iron roof to expose the lighter coloured rust beneath. And finally, I gave the firewood a wash with plaster dust and Acrylic 'Olive Green, and lightened the wood panelling of the firewood store by scraping it back and applying the same washes. I will age the panel and wooden framework some more. All in all, a productive hour or so! TFL Badder.
  7. Hi Pat, Well, your cable looks fine too me. It just looked like it might be braided fishing line. So, I'm including the following for your and your readers' benefit: 'Braided' fishing line is made from woven (or braided) strands of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethylene fibres and is usually coated with nano-resins for abrasion resistance. It's extremelystrong for its diameter, more than steel cable, and can be purchased in lengths from upwards of 10m (freshwater angling) up to 1000m (sea fishing) and in breaking strains from around 2kg and approaching 100kg (sea fishing). It therefore comes in wide range of diameters. As with all products, there are cheap ones and expensive ones, but if you were the kind of modeller who plans on making lots of barbed wire fences, tow cables, or rigging up model sailing ships, they are certainly worth looking at. Rearguards, Badder
  8. Hi Ricardo, That's would have been a superb KT if it weren't for the winter camo. Now it's a fantastically superb KT! If I were you I'd mount it on a nice display base, turret off, and comletely opened up for inspection. I'm imagining a nice little slab of black marble and relevant information on engraved silver plaques. Rearguards, Badder
  9. Hi Vince, Thanks! Of course it's finished. Unless I fiddle around with it and mess it up! You know me too well. Rearguards Badder
  10. Hi Steve, Nice to see you. I hope you are well? I see you are still in fine form, although your spelling of 'bass' might upset the less talented of the rhythm section. Having said that, bass players wouldn't notice anyway, unless you turned the font size all the way up to eleven, used bold script repeated the one word over and over again. Thanks for noticing my Tiger, I wasn't aware you were following its protracted delivery, you lurker you! As for this particular diorama, I must admit I'm rather looking forward to getting back to it and getting the collapsed roof on (or off) but I want to get the farmhouse finished in my Ever Evolvin' Dio first. That shouldn't take too long now though, so I will see you here soon! Rearguards, Badder
  11. Hi Pat, I love the colour, and the dusty look, and most especially the beautifully even matt finish. Having said the latter, I do think the wooden steering wheel needs a bit of a polish! But that's the only thing I can see that would be an improvement. It's a great looking kit, tidily built, painted perfectly and subtly weathered to a nice level. My first Tamiya kit was an SAS Jeep back in the late 70's and then in the early 80's I left the hobby and only returned 6? yrs ago. Somehow I've completely missed the 'Deuce and a half' and have always wondered why no one brought it out as a kit! Now that I know it exists, I am going to have to break my vow of 'not buying any more kits until I've completed the ones in my stash' rule and ask Santa to buy me one! BTW, is that tow cable braided fishing line? Rearguards, Badder
  12. Hi Tony, Yep, that's a very nice looking Lee. I won't point out the 'faults' that everyone else have mentioned, but I will say that AFVs with this particular chassis really do look so much better with metal tracks such as 'Friuls' Of course, they are expensive, and probably not for the 'new' or 'occasional' AFV builder, but they are worth thinking about if you get addicted to them in the future. My last three models are fitted with Friul's, one being a Nashorn with the superb extra wide 'winteretten' tracks and I cannot imagine now making an AFV with the old rubber bands (assuming that the metal ones are available, of course) Rearguards, Badder
  13. Hi GRK, Welcome to the Dark Side. And for a first attempt and using several 'new' techniques, that's a mighty fine AFV. Your figures need a special mention too, because not everyone can manage the eyes as well as you have! Regarding the quote above. First off, I don't always use a gloss varnish to coat the model before chipping. Whether I do, or don't, depends on the colour of the finished vehicle. Sometimes you can get a good effect by chipping some areas back through the rust, to the base coat. TBH though, I never bother with a rust/red lead oxide layer. If I want rust/red lead oxide to 'show through' I brush paint it over the final coat of paint (whether that be the actual colour of the vehicle, or whitewash) Recently, I've started using Sepia coloured Sigma Micron Archival Ink pens to apply the small chips, the very last thing to go onto the model before a matt coat. On the subject of the matt coat, I do think your figures need one. Their uniforms look too shiny to me. I'd recommend Winsor and Newton Matt Acrylic Varnish.... superb stuff. It'd take the shine off the sun! Some might say that your Matilda could do with a coat as well, but I'm always in two minds about that. Matt paint will polish up, especially if there's fine sand blowing about and lots of sweaty hands, arms, legs, boots and bums sliding all over it. I also think a 'satin' finish makes a well weathered AFV look more metallic, but that might just be me. Whatever, you've produced a great Matilda and I look forward to seeing your diorama. I hope you produce a WIP and join us loonies in the Diorama's forum! Rearguards, Badder.
  14. Okay, so I'm calling the roof done. Actually, positively, finally done. And I've skipped removing the scratch, ejector pin mark and ink stain for the time being, and have moved on to the whitewashed wall. In the photo directly above this post the whitewash on the stonework got a bit lost due to my exuberance with green washes. So the first job was to lighten everything up with some white ink. I only applied one thin coat, so everything went a bit grey, but at least it wasn't green! I then gave parts of the wall a going over with a small piece of 'Dick' Emery cloth, taking raised areas right back to the bare plaster: So far, so good. I'm liking the look of that and it was a doddle to do. I will probably do a little bit more with the 'Dick' cloth and I'll definitely apply some more white ink to the window surrounds to brighten them up. The green plantlife growing up the wall is going to be embelished with some leafy vines, and there'll be some more real moss added along the foot of the wall, especially at the bottom of the drainpipe, which I've somehow managed to lose over the past year or so, but it must be somewhere safe! (Possibly in my wallet?) TFL Badder
  15. Ho hum.... The 'Finishing touches' have turned into more faffing about. Such is me. I had a bit of an experiment over the past few days, carving out the joints between the tiles. This, was in effect, removing the plaster dust. Most often though, I'd end up applying more dust and filling them up again. And then I forgot about clearing it out again. So, I cleared some out again, and then sorted a few other niggles out as well. The 'cleared' joints are mainly along the bottom edge of the roof, and more expansive patches directly above the door and following the left hand gable end, up the roof. I also 'rubbed back' the gutter with a damp stiff brush to recover the original paint job: The 'gunk' top left, below, has to be pricked up again with a scalpel. I may also give the window frames a rub back as the chipping effect isn't showing up due to accumulated grime: varnish overspray, plaster dust and household dust, mostly. There's a scratch on the cornerstones of the wall, and an 'ejector pin mark' just to the right of it, which I've not noticed before. They will need removing. I had a bit of a trembling fit while doing all of the above, and managed to knock the lamp, nearly breaking it away from its bracket. Luckily nothing snapped, but the lamp housing did lift away from the bracket on the front two legs. I managed to re-glue them later when my hands were steadier! There's black ink on the window surround, which so far, has resisted being removed. And finally, I managed to knock out the bars in a window at the rear.... When the roof IS finished and the repair jobs have been carried out, I'll be working on the rear wall seen above.... improving the worn whitewash look on the stones to more closely match that of the window surrounds. TFL Badder
  16. Ah, kind of wood-fibre cardboard stuff. I can see that would be good then. Supermarkets are a great source of diorama materials BTW. I got a couple of sheets of 'foamboard' 5x4 ft and 1/3rd inch thick. I say foamboard, but it's very dense and whilst it does bend it's the kind that will snap if scored with a scalpel and bent back on itself. It can be imprinted with grooves with a biro, toothpick etc and holds the impression well. I use it for constructing buildings and also building up ground. (have a look at my WIP 'Pit Stop') I call it 'FTINFBISS' Foamboard That Is Not Foamboard, But Is Something Similar. It's what they usd for temporary advertising, usually stuck up on walls or hanging from ceilings. Rearguards, Badder
  17. Hi Dennis. Interesting stuff that Clearfix. But I found myself staring at that guy's earlobes more than I did the product! I'm no stranger to dressing up 'weird' and sticking safety pins through their ears and noses etc, with myself having lived through the punk era and heavy metal, but there's something very odd about people who want to deform their earlobes like that and beyond. I saw a girl with earlobes nearly touching her shoulders..... What will they look like when they are 90yrs old?? Anyhoo…. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do water-wise. An odd choice of base if you don't mind me saying. I assume it's some kind of rubber or plastic and by the looks of it it's flexible, and I'd have thought it might cause problems, flexing and causing cracking in the 'ground'. I do know it's a worry about plaster/stuff not gripping firmly to a smooth base on the other hand, but I've found just scoring the surface deeply with a blade at an angle is plenty enough for the plaster to key on. Rearguards, Badder
  18. No worries Joseph. Thanks for the info. I've watched quite a few hairspray winter camo videos and one 'expert' said that the hairspray can be left on indefinitely and will still dissolve with water years later. I didn't realise anyone was actually going to do that though! The problem, as you've discovered is the paint. The water has to get under the paint to activate the hairspray lacquer and lift the paint away, so if the paint has cured for years, has been covered in dust, and other airborne contaminants such as air fresheners, cig smoke, furniture polish, etc etc, then all of that will form a protective layer over the paint and make it even harder for the water to get under it. Rearguards, Badder Rearguards, Badder
  19. The rear roof is more or less done. Again, the green isn't showing up in these photos, but it is there. Some messing about with greens, the highlighting of individual tiles, and a coat of matt and I'm calling the entire roof done. TFL Badder
  20. I wasn't at all happy with the areas of roof where the clumps of grass used to be. There were remnants of CA in blobs and patches, but I always intended to improve them by stabbing them with a hot scalpel and roughing them up. So that's what I did. I was quite pleased with the result. Now it looks like that kind of algal/fungal leaf litter type gunk. I've given it several coats of matt varnish. Hopefully that will help preserve the flaky nature of it. The roof was greened up a bit with some Chromium Oxide Weathering Powder. And then I toned it down with more plaster dust and the Greasy FInger. I don't have a good photo of that ATM, but I'm calling that side of the roof finished. With that done, I moved on to the rear, which for those who don't know, is a plaster cast of the plastic front section, with some inherent undulation, patching work and a .n extra strip added to the end due to the shrinkage of the plaster during curing. After saying that I was going to leave the clumps of grass in place because of the damage caused by removing them, I decided to remove them anyway. I managed to prise the clumps off with a scalpel. This was something I didn't manage to do with the clumps CA'd to the plastic roof. I had feared that there'd be a lot of repair work to do, but as it turns out, most of the damage was done to the paint. The plaster underneath survived relatively unharmed. The rough looking sections are where the clumps were removed: As can be seen above, I re-coloured the exposed plaster and have darkened patches of tile with black washes. Dust will be applied later today, and then there'll come the usual faffing about trying to get both sections of roof looking roughly the same in character. TFL Badder
  21. Hi Brian, Thanks for the suggestion. The Greasy Finger would work with a paper mask, but my fingers are small enough to get away with doing it 'freehand'. I have picked out some single tiles, rubbing them back' with a stiff short-bristled brush. I think I'm happy with how the roof looks now. It's certainly better than it was. Rearguards Badder
  22. Hi Bill, When I first saw your P38 I was gobsmacked. I'm not a 'wingy thing' builder, but I know a truly superb model when I see one It is a thing of beauty, a work of art and certainly worthy of space in a museum display, and more so as a tribute to the pilot. Congrats on all fronts. Rearguards, Badder
  23. Hi 4bo, Typical, I've never seen a T-60 before and two show up at once! I could tell they were small from looking at the plan view of @f matthews's fine effort, but your fantastic little vignette really shows just how small they are. You've done an excellent job on all fronts (forgive the pun) I know what you mean about Winter camo. I've just finished my 3rd AFV clad in whitewash and it seems to me that there's more opportunity to mess about with winter camo than there is with any other. I love the look you've achieved. Is there a WIP showing your winter camo being applied and weathered? Rearguards, Badder
  24. Hi Mr Matthews, An odd little thing, and one I've not seen before, so thanks for posting. You've done a grand job there... lovely colour, beautiful weathering and presented on a very tidy base. I hope you enjoyed putting those Friuls together, because I know I would have done. They look absolutely fantastic. Rearguards, Badder
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