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Badder

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Everything posted by Badder

  1. Thanks chaps, Nice to see you pop up from behind your model-stations. lol sorry for the late response, but I've been 'fiddling' a lot with the farmhouse, so much so that I've not taken photos or produced any vids lol. But when I look at the 'end' section of the building with the more or less totally collapsed walls and floor, it's looking so much better than it was and barring some fine details to add (and all the debris) is pretty much done. I will post pics in the not-too-distant future.
  2. Not sure whether the UK climate transforming into a 'nice Mediterranean' one should be 'promised', like it's a good thing? I mean the Mediterranean itself and southern Europe would be transformed into desert and whilst we here in the UK were able to grow our own oranges, lemons, olives and dates, we'd have no one to pick, process, pack and distribute them, unless the people fleeing the Med/Southern Europe come to live here that is. lol On that note, Happy new year and thanks for your continued support, it's much appreciated, and the same goes to everyone else of course. Rearguards, Badder.
  3. I will have to have a closer look at that ball tank dio. Is it in the RFI section? We've got at least one house move to look forward to in 2022, one soon, once we get notice. We've been looking in your neck of he woods, even, lol, but yes, hopefully I'll manage to get the building finished this year! I seriously think it will be! Rearguards, Badder
  4. Hi Francis, If I had just found these photos on the internet and didn't know whose model this was, I WOULDN'T have guessed it was yours. The thing that 'threw me' is the modulation, which I've seen you use before, but you've reached a much a higher level here. Once again, you're stepping up closer to being a 'Master' of our art. Of the model itself, it really does look like a smart, tidy and well-detailed kit and that working suspension and those tracks do look really good. My only reservation is that log strapped to the side. It's awful! The bark detail is so bad I'm not sure if it's supposed to be a log which has had most of the bark stripped off, or not. Only hours of carving and re-painting are going to make it look any better IMHO, so if it were up to me I'd remove it and replace it with something more realistic. I know you'll take that in good spirit. Talking of spirits, I myself am having a whole bottle of Bailey's Irish Cream right now! Cheers and here's wishing you and yours a much improved 2022! Rearguards, Badder
  5. Wonderfully brilliant work Joeren. Top class, all of it. There's a landowner/farmer/odd-job chap who lives down the lane from us and he has a Fergie 35. I was chatting to him about it during the summer as he drove by and stopped. He said he's used it virtually every day since he bought it brand new in the 1950's. It's all still totally orginal, except the tyres of course. Have a great 2022 and onwards! Rearguards, Badder
  6. Fantastic work Ozzy. I've said it before, but your work rate is incredible and I don't know how you manage to produce such fine work so quickly! I'm torn between the 'Ball tank' vignette......... I'm aware of the vehicle, but haven't seen yours until now.......... and the StuG diorama, which displays some sublime snow......... oh and the SdKfz7......... and the 88mm........ and the Me109 is rather good too..... oh it's all good! lol Wishing you and yours a happy 2022, Rearguards, Badder
  7. What with the Martian invasion of Earth, Atlantis re-emerging from the depths and it's fish-faced King complaining about all the plastic nappies polluting their aquasphere, the revelation that the Earth, and indeed Mars, ARE flat, and my incapacity due to having been polycelled under the dining room wallpaper for the past 2 years, I haven't done any actual gluing and painting of 3D jigsaw puzzles made from lots of pieces of plastic. All I've been able to do is mess about with my scratch-built, multipose ruined farmhouse I came up with the idea a few years ago now........ instead of making several dioramas for my various winter-camo AFVs, just to make one and use that as a 'stage set' for photographing different sets of vehicles and figures. And then I thought, if I'm going to swap those in and out of the dio, why not make the buiding multipose to add that extra bit of variation? For the past year I've continued Improving things here and there, adding details, super-detailing and more and more weathering. My thinking is that it's better to get things perfect, than settle for second best, otherwise I'll regret it in years to come! I've also 'invented' a couple of weathering techniques, which have ended up distracting me because I found myself wanting to make videos of 'how to do it', and so set up a Youtube channel: 'Badder's Better Diorama Hacks', but that's turning out to be a really boring, frustrating and sometimes extremely annoying chore, especially when Youtube loses, or messes up your vids! And most of my vids weren't good to start with! lol. But all that aside, here's a glimpse at some of the work I have done............. It's nearly all weathering! Wishing you me and everyone, a much better 2022, and that includes the Martians and the Atlanteans! OOH, OOH, I forgot! I also made an indestructible tree! ENJOY........... Badder. The building roughed out, with preliminary painting and preliminary weathering. The roof sections are interchangeable/removable, but only 1 section can be seen at the far right. The wall beneath it is also interchangeable with a more collapsed verison. The whole building pulls apart into 3 sections until that time that the interior is completely finished and the building is fixed to the diorama base. Messing around with the collapsed floor, like much of this building, it's currently dry-fitted. An invaluable tool for those who scratchbuild buildings or other large structures........... a scribing block............. this one I made from one of my old angling trophies. Top tip! Unscrew the chap from the top of your darts/football/baseball/origami champion trophy, remove all of the 'cup' and 'plinth' sections, and you're left with a nice sturdy metal upright with a nice heavy and flat bottomed base for your scribing block. It's then a case of finding the 'gubbins' to rig up an adjustable clamp for a scriber. I used the 'gubbins' from one of those Modelmaker's 'extra-hands' contraptions with crocodile clips and usually a pretty naff magnifying glass attachment...... This really is the most useful tool I've ever had. No more using pairs of dividers, rulers, set squares and spirit levels to transfer height dimensions across the building! Tarpaulin on portico......... CA'd paper. Wall render above portico........ CA'd paper Far right.......... the more ruined upper wall section. This is interchangeable with the more intact section seen earlier behind the scribing block. Work on the roof sections, all of which are removable and can be swapped with more or less damaged versions, or just dropped into the building, or onto the ground. The roof tiles are made entirely from CA'd paper. 840 individually cut roof tiles in just 60 cuts. Vid on YouTube Working on the end gable wall section, improving the carving of the stonework, and applying quick and easy and very realistic, plaster-dust and plaster-dust bubble washes. Vid on YouTube. From this.......... To this........... in minutes. Really chuffed how these turned out using my plaster-dust bubble washes to create 3D textures which look like lichen/algae/fungal/microscopic plant life/mosses and leached salt deposits, depnding on the colours used. BTW, I use acrylic INKS exclusively. No enamel beetles had to die to produce this. Moving into the interior, with more plaster-dust washes and plain green and dirty washes. Bubble washes to follow........... Door constructed from wooden coffee stirrers and faced with CA'd paper, painted blue, then sanded, scraped and scored to produce worn, rotting, flaking effects. Cracked and flaking wall render, CA'd paper. Work in progress with the door on the ground floor. Door latch/lock to add............. Again, CA'd paper, treated the same as the other door, but with more scraping, less scoring and more of the paper remaining. The remaining blue paper looks like flaking paint. The other side...... And the only other thing I've built this year.......... and not quite finished, is a new 'indestructible tree'. It's supposed to be a Yew tree. It really is pretty much indestructible in the sense that I videod myself throwing it across my workstation and bashing it repeatedly on the worktop, with no damage done to either! lol. I wanted to make an 'indestructible' tree because they get notoriously dusty, covered in cobwebs, and attacked by cats. I wanted to be able to jet wash and vacuum my tree clean, with no fear of damage, and one that will last a lifetime. I'm pretty sure it'll outlast me! Again, vid on YouTube. New Year's Quiz. This tree stands about 13 inches high. How many metres of fishing line does it contain? Those who already know can't play! Post your guess here. No cheating! Closest guesser gets a virtual kiss. Rememebr, a year only lasts a year, so this year, I'm wishing everyone a lengthy and greatly improved future. Rearguards, Badder
  8. Here you go.................... Masterclasses in compostition and realism.
  9. And that's fine too. And the smashing as well. I had a completed Nashorn which I accidentally superglued two hands to, and my hands together as well. After an hour I and the Nashorn were released from captivity. But the Nashorn was in a bad state. I had to completely strip of it of paint and then repaint it, weather it etc, and once finished decided to rinse off under a cold tap. The Nashorn couldn't take all of the abuse and started falling to bits, so I helped it by smashing it against the tap! 45+ quid down the drain! BTW, there was a BM chap who did a load of vignettes just like yours, aircraft and the odd vehicle and they were masterpieces. If I can remember his tag and find his work I'll post it in your thread. Might give you some inspiration........... Rearguards, Badder
  10. That's exactly the way I do things. Experiment and learn, listen and learn, learn and improve and share! lol
  11. I use thin, medium, thick and gel CA when needs demand it. I use thin CA mostly to douse paper. 'CA'd paper' is what I call it. I've made all kinds of things using it, from gutters, roof tiles, rifle and helmet straps and the kit bag hanging from the gun trave lock on my Sherman. I either make the things with paper first, and then douse them with thin CA to impregnate them and turn them into a rigid, platsic-like substance, like the kit bag, or I douse layers of paper together and cut them up, to make roof tiles for example, or, if rolled around a rod first, guttering. I'll also use it to dribble into joints in MiniArt buildings, or my plaster of paris walls and for fixing scatter around clumps of vegetation. It's ASLO good for making frothy, water trails in resin water. Drip some it into freshly poured resin and the glue turns into 'bogeys' (boogers) Then you can use a toothpick to stretch, pull, prod and mess around with the glue to make some interesting effects in the resin, often bubbly/frothy. I've even lifted strings of glue up above the surface of the resin to create 'wakes' in the water. So, basically I do just dribble the thin CA on through the nozzle, but if it's a really awkward place that needs gluing more precisely I'll fit a thin metal tube nozzle attachment on the bottle. If that gets clogged up with dried glue I heat it up over a candle....... and hold my breath and close my eyes whilst doing so! Best wear goggles and facemask you children out there! Failing that, I'll sometime dip a metal pin/scriber/wire into thin CA, lift a single tiny drop out and apply it precisely. Hope that helps, you, someone, or their aunt. Rearguards, Badder
  12. As far as I'm concerned, this wins the 2021 Britmodeller 'statement of fact' trophy', knocking all others into a cocked hat with a baseball bat.
  13. . Excellent caricatures, very realistic faces. I have no doubt whatsoever that that's Mattius Hancoch, grandfather of a certain British MP, standing proud on top. Rearguards, Badder
  14. Hi Antoine. Nice layout. The grass/flower matt looks great. I keep meaning to have a closer look at the stuff to see how they make it, and then make my own. The puddle looks very realistic as well. You seem to have had some trouble with the 'soil' early on, the tea leaves being a mistake in my opinion. Tea leaves are better used for fallen/dead leaves, in my opinion, and I will use them as scatter over the ground, around and in clumps of grass., or gathered along the bottoms of walls/curbs etc, blown by the wind. The soil is looking much better now, but I'd not spend money on 'mud products'. I make my own, mixing grit/sand/crushed brick/stone/plaster of paris, or whatever into acrylic paint and slapping that on, or sprinkling it loose over a coat of white PVA glue then applying lots of different washes. There's nothing wrong with your soil now, I mean, you do get red/brown soils just like that, but personally I'd add some variation, with darker brown washes applied here and there and especially along the edges of the grass for example. I'd also pick out some of the individual high spots by dry brushing the soil with lighter shades, again, here and there, not all over. You may be planning on doing that anyway, in which case, I apologize! lol Rearguards, Badder
  15. Thanks. The best thing for replicating wooden objects, is of course, wood. I've not used Bass wood, cos it's a bit expensive, but I do appreciate how close the grain is, looking good for 1/35th scale I think. If I'm colouring wood, or plaster of paris, or paper, I apply the inks neat, either with a brush or AB. Absorbent materialS don't need many applications to make the colours 'solid'. Then I rub/sand/scrape/scribe/score/wash/re-apply repeat repeat to get the desired effects. It really doesn't take long and doesn't need to be done carefully, under a microscope. If I'm using plastic, I do apply a primer coat of acryic paint first. After that I apply the inks neat and might play around with ink washes a bit as well before sealing with a matt varnish. It might take several such applications,, depending on the colour to be applied, but I quite like applying multiple layers and rubbing some areas back, applying ink washes (diluted with water) rubbing those back, a matt varnish, and repeat, repeat. Enamel washes work fine over the ink once it's dried, but I don't bother and just use ink instead. This is my Sherman Easy Eight with scratch-built added armour, which will feature in this Pit Stop dio. The OD base coat is acylic ink over acrylic paint primer, and the whitewash is is neat white acrylic ink. I think it was just two coats of white to get it er........ THAT white............. But then I rubbed it back to create the chipped and worn look. There's also some nice 'crazing' on the glacis where I accidentally overwetted the dried whitewash. I let it dry again but it shrank and cracked just like wet mud does in the hot sun, and the effect is quite nice. I often discover 'new techniques' by accident lol., I don't know what inks are available to you, but I use Daler Rowney 'FW' acrylic inks, which come in 29fl oz bottles with a pipette built into the lid. One drop goes MUCH further than acrylic paint, and as you say, is great for washes/weathering. Funnily enough, here in the UK the weather has been supernaturally warm, hovering around 15C (59F) for a few weeks, even during the night, when usually it would be in the minuses. Usually, we get south westerlies from the 'gulf stream' coming up from the gulf of mexico and that stops us getting as cold as New York does at this time of year. Yes, we are usually in the low plus and low minus figures, but rarely below -10c. This year we're being warmed by air/sea currents coming up from the west coast of Africa, very odd! It's much warmer than usual. I think we've had just one frost and I can quite happily sleep with the windows open. I would blame it on globular, um, globle warming, but I can't spell it. lol. Rearguards, Badder
  16. When you can't get 'stuck into' some serious work, 'fiddling' is a great option, improving things that could be better.......... that's virtually 95 percent of my model-making anyway! lol. So, I've been doing some 'super-detailing' and more weathering. The ONLY thing I'm not happy with at the moment is the interface between the red brickwork and the brownstone blocks at the tops of the walls. I'm going to fill and recarve some of those blockwork mortar gaps to form stepped brownstone blocks rather than a smooth slope. The original builder was an idiot! lol Green plaster-dust washes for the walls, a heavier weathering of the door, with flaking-paint effects, and an improved copper door-knob This door, and the door on the ground floor were both made using 5 wooden coffee-stirrers CA'd together side by side, before the front and back of the doors were faced with paper, also Ca'd in place. This door was then bent back and forth to 'split' the paper along the joints to create the planks of wood. As the paper was impregnated with CA, it only 'cracked' partially, and everything held together. Thin CA was then applied to the front and rear of the doors, fixing everything solid again. Repeated painting with a sky blue, sanding, scoring with a scalpel, and rubbing back, removing SOME of the paper in the process, gave the effect seen below. I just have to add the latch/lock detail, hinges and probably some nails/studs to the door and it'll be finished. The door will be open and closeable. This door was constructed in exactly the same way, but didnt ungergo the bending-back-and-forth process to the same extent. Again, I had painted the paper faces blue, and then gave them a going over with some sandpaper. I then doused the door with water and took to scraping the paper with a scalpel. I basically only removed the surface of the paper. I only took to scoring the paper at the tops an bottoms of the 'planks' to make them look rotted up and down the grain. Brown washes were added in a very slap-dash way and allowed to dry and partially rubbed back. The white patches are remnants of the paper, with the blue ink sanded away, and they look like fungal growths, mold, rot. I'm very pleased with how this looks. I've since added nail holes/nails along the bracing beams and I'm in the process of making a latch/door handle. The other side of the door. This is an interior door, don't forget, so weathering would normally be light, but since the collapse of the building, the OTHER side has been exposed to the fully vagaries of the weather. THIS side, only gets a battering when the wind blows it fully open, now and then. I'm LOVING the chipped/flaking paint, dry-rot, wet-rot, fungal-growth effects on these doors. But don't think there's any 'skill' in producing any of. This door and the weathering took literally minutes. It's a case of gluing it all together, with CA, paint the paper, and attack it with sandpaper, a scalpel, apply washes and maybe attacking it some more. PS, I was REALLY impressed with the hundreds of 'woodworm' holes in the wood, I wasn't aware I'd actually made any! Then I scrolled down the page and realised they were all tiny spatters of black ink on my laptop screen! lol TFL I wish you and everyone, a better new year, than the last! Badder
  17. A belated Merry Xmas to all BM members and visitors, and in a more timely fashion, I wish you all a much better 2022! Unfortunately, the better half and I are awaiting notice of a house move in the 'who-knows-how-long' future, so I'm not willing to get stuck into any serious 'big-modelling' jobs for fear of having to pack it all away again. So, I'm 'fiddling', adding bits and pieces, doing some super-detailing and the final weathering of what's already there. Rearguards, Badder
  18. Hi Nick, I am clinically vulnerable, not in the best of shape, so I haven't even been outside to put out the bins for over a month, let alone spend half an hour taking photos in the wind and rain! lol. I only half-jest! You're absolutely correct though. I'm not sure if you're aware but everything you see in the photos, going way back in this thread, is coloured with acrylic ink, and it really does alter quite drastically in colour, tone, contrast, transparency, opacity, etc etc depending on the type of light source, and the angle at which the photos are taken, and I don't think I've EVER photographed this building outside! And s byes, absolutely, natural light will make those 3-D effects and textures pop out as well. So, yes, I will try to get some done as soon as the weather is better. Happy new year! Rearguards, Badder
  19. Belated Merry Christmas to all BM members and visitors. Model-making has had to take 2nd seat for a while as a houseg move is on the cards, but we've no idea when, so I don't want to get stuck into a 'long job' and then have to pack it all away!

    But I AM on time to wish everyone a happy and far better year ahead!

    Rearguards,

    Badder

  20. Top class! Love the wired jerry can, the dangling track-changing cable, the bent fender, the zimmerit, restrained chipping etc etc. Being a total stickler for detail, I do notice you've put the spare track links front left of the glacis on the wrong way round when compared to the photo. I'll get me coat. Rearguards, Badder
  21. Hi Nick, I have been popping in now and then to look at your amazing progress and to admire your artistry. I'm never disappointed! I'd like to say that I too am very much a 'CA'd fingers modeller, but thankfully superglues are nowhere near as deadly as they used to be. I was once adding a spot of thin CA to the tracks of a finished Nashorn, holding the Nashorn in the air from below, with my left hand holding the bottle of thin CA and resting against my my left hand against my right to steady the bottle. I was intending to just put a spot of glue under the tracks........ only the CA squirted out in a fountain. I managed to glue my RH thumb to the tracks, with the overspill gluing the little finger of the same hand to the side panel on the other side of the vehicle and yet more overspill gluing the side of my right right thumb and hand to the 'heel' of my left hand, and in all the panic the fingers of my left hand to each other. I basically couldnt put the bottle or the model down for fear of more gluing and had to call to the better half to rescue me. She didn't even laugh! Must have been in a bad mood lol. She had to do the honours, with soapy water and acetone, with the offending bottle of CA being the most immediate object of concern. Since then, I've found that repeated gluings kind of alter your skin's ability to peel off easier, without causing bleeding. I also lack fingerprints for a day or two afterwards and am a part-time safe-cracker until they regrow. Having said all of that, I reckon there must be an easier way to make those clumps of grass. Folding them around a stick seems like an unnecessary step to me. How about taking a bunch of strands and poking them halfway through a round hole in a sheet of corrugated cardboard, adding a dab of medium or thick CA around the base, flip it over and do the same the other side so you have 2 tufts, one each side. You can then cut around each tuft and slice through the corrugated 'jam in the sandwich' to separate the tufts. Any paper left around the base will increase glue contact areas. Just an idea. Rearguards, Badder
  22. Excellent stuff. Love the finish on it. Strangely enough, my Churchill also ended up with a nice silky sheen on it. This occurred because it was the first time I used weathering powders and I kinda 'scrubbed them in' so much it polished the paint! lol But it did give a really nice realistic effect IMO and made it look like a big lump of metal. Rearguards, Badder
  23. A job very well done, nice camo, nice figure, nice tracks. The only problem is I like to hold judgement on Tiger's as I do my women, I've got to see their rear ends before committing myself! lol Can we have an 'rear end' photo please? Rearguards, Badder
  24. Stonework improved in places (Most will be covered with ivy, but hey) Sap Green plaster-dust washes applied, messed around with. and all fixed with matt varnish. I think I'm narrowing down the exact mix to create the bubble washes. It's always been a bit hit-and-miss until now. I will supply a 'recipe' when I've got it producing 3D bubble effects 100 percent of the time. Some really nice 3D bubbles going on. They've now been fixed with a matt varnish. TFL Badder ps. The video is being remade, yet again. lol
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