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Badder

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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

  • Rank
    SCHOOL OF PAINT RUB BACK REPAINT RPT X 7 MODELMAKING
  • Birthday 03/28/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wiltshire
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Hi Stix, I have popped in now and then to see people's progress and yours has been unsurprisingly unsurprising. It was always going to be another stunner! Rearguards, Badder
  2. Badder

    T-54b

    Hi Glynn, I have been popping in now and then and I've been amazed by your 1/72nd foray. You said at such a small scale you can't see the mistakes. I disagree. A tiny mistake looks HUGE on something that small! I couldn't believe this was 1/72nd anyway. When I first saw it I thought 'how on earth does someone build not just a 1/35th tank but the transporter as well, in 3 months?!' Stunning work! Rearguards, Badder
  3. I'm sure I'm not the only diorama-maker to suffer badly with that 'what looks good vs what looks right' problem. I suffer from it constantly. It's why everything I do ends up being changed, in the sometimes incorrect belief that it will end up better. Ever since making the chequered floor I've wanted to show it off. I think the contrasting tiles would make a nice little feature for the diorama, drawing the viewer's eye inside the building to see all of the architectural details that they might otherwise overlook. The problem is, in order to expose the floor I'd have to get rid of the roof and the floor above it. And where would all that debris end up under normal circumstances? Well, on the chequered floor! I did have the idea to maybe portray the building as having been 'cleaned out', the owner intending to rebuild it. Or to collapse that new wall and dormer window and leave the roof and upper floor intact. But I like the new wall and don't want to do that. So I've had to bite the bullet and forget about showing off the floor to that extent. Instead, I've returned to my original idea: that of portraying that section of the building with a part-collapsed roof and a part collapsed upper floor. So, the chequered floor will only be seen through the doorway and windows (just) and from directly above. Oh well. So, first things first, to the upper floor and those floorboards I made way, way, way, back towards the start of this thread. I first had to fit the floor to the building again, because the room has altered in dimension with the replacing of the side walls. I also had to cut out a section for the chimney brest. And I removed a floorboard, just to see if it was easy to do (the coffee stirrers are actually CA'd to each other on graph paper and then to coffee-stirrer joists. More floorboards were removed and the floor and chimney dry-fitted. I also dry-fitted a section of roof tiles. These are some I made ages ago, but decided to scrap. They are here only for effect. I shall have to check on whether I can make a fireplace for the top room, using the same chimney. Phsyics may say it's not possible, or is possible but dangerous to life. I don't know. Until then, I think I can now move back to the roof. TFL Badder
  4. Hi Binbrook, It does look to be a nice kit. I'd like to have seen a bit more in the way of weathering, but it could easily be a 'fresh off the boat' Honey, so it's perfect. If you can manage panel lines, you can manage other pin washes/washes and with a bit of dry-brushing and streaking you'll be a few steps closer to full weathering. My only tip would be when you take photos, try to have a blank background. The box art is lovely, but your honey gets lost against it. Rearguards, Badder.
  5. Bonjour, Welcome to Britmodeller. Nice work to start your journey! I look forward to seeing more from you. Rearguards, Badder
  6. Er... it may seem an odd thing to say, but there ARE seascape dioramas and vignettes on Britmodeller. Some have WIPs if you want to take the time to search for them. I don't have the time, but here are two very nice patches of water.... Good luck. Rearguards, Badder
  7. Hi Simon, Given the subject matter, it seems crass to say that you did well to overcome the issues with the resin! Everything that can be said has been said, except that I don't think we'll ever see a better beach assualt dio than this. Congrats!! Rearguards, Badder
  8. Hi Robert, Family issues are rarely a good thing, so I hope things get, or have been, sorted and you can relax. Actually, I think your method would be the more natural; a nice smooth plastered wall, which then ages, with ccracks,hipping and flaking etc, whilst my method is an easy cheat. Rearguards, Badder
  9. Hi Robert, I hope your new year is going well? Certainly there are times when I want a perfectly flat smooth surface on my plaster casts and so I do press them when wet and in the mould, but the rustic building here demands rough and ready plastering/rendering. I find it much easier to let the plaster dry lumpy and uneven, colour it, and then sand it back a bit at a time, add more colour and sand again, etc, etc, as was shown in the photos. The finished effect, with what looks like the remains of white paint, or cleaner plaster on top of older paster, is completely random and I think more realistic for it. I think it's far quicker and easier to slap some lumpy plaster on and sand it down to get a smooth surface with chips, holes, indents, and depressions in it, than it is to dig, cut, chip, sand and file all those things into a piece of flat plaster. Rearguards, Badder
  10. I've been doing bits and pieces here and there, plus the usual faffing around with more washes everywhere. I've broken up the flooring in the upstairs end room, and have had a go at collapsing what's left. In all probability this will evolve when the roof is collapsed on top of it, but I'm quite happy with how things are at the moment. The building has received its first all over plaster dust wash with selected areas taken back and darkened with black washes. This was just an experiment to see if it suggested wet wood and wall plaster. I think it's worked on the floorboards and some of the internal walls (which can't be seen here) The observant will notice that I've chopped off the very large window that was at the back of the building on the RHS in this photo. I'm contemplating removing it completely completely and replacing it with red brick, and possibly collapsing whichever completely. TFL Badder
  11. Work has continued on the inner walls of the accommodation section of the building. The plaster of Paris rendering was smoothed down with a block of emery cloth, but not before the plaster was dampened to keep the dust levels down. This meant that the emery cloth clogged up very quickly, but an old scalpel blade was used to scrape the gunk from the cloth and keep the process going. I did not sand the plaster completely flat though. The idea was to create a layer of plaster with a maximum thickness, but with no minimum thickness., meaning that there should be depressions in it. Here's the first section of wall to be treated in this way: This was then given a wash with Burnt Umber acrylic Ink. And this was then given another going over with the block of Emery cloth: Targeted washes of black ink were then applied to some of the deeper impressions, and again the plaster was sanded back a little way. Then areas of plaster were chipped off to reveal the stonework underneath and washes with plaster dust followed. Note that the edges of the chipped away sections were then protected with applications of medium CA. I then used a scalpel to 'pick out' fresh plaster. The idea there was to create areas of plaster which, when given washes, would nevertheless remain cleaner than the rest. I also cut out a channel for the wooden floor beam and fitted that before dry-fitting the wall for the photos. The wall opposite got the some of the same treatment, but with the addition of a length of skirting board. The top section of this bit of wall will require more modelling so I haven't been so fussy with it. Scraping and sanding of the walls means that plaster dust fell onto the floor. I let this build up and occasionally went over it with a wet brush. I will clean some tiles back more than others. As I mentioned earlier, I had originally intended to build a complete floor and a part collapsed roof above this room, so I wasn't too fussy with the detailing of things like the insides of the windows. Now that I've decided to open the whole area up, I feel that the windows aren't good enough, so I'm going to upgrade them with properly fitted 'glass' rather than just gluing it onto the backs of the frames. TFL Badder
  12. Hi Mr Repeater, I hope the 'send off' went well and everyone feels calmed. Now that it's painted, the roadway looks much less straight and it should be easy to slant it that little bit more. As for your intended resin pour, I do think those frame joints and the frames themselves my leak. If there's even a pin-gentleman's parts of a hole in your sculptamold, or the corner joint, the resin will get through, seep to the bottom of the base and leak out of the sides or underneath. I doubt a mask would be sufficient. PVA applied neat and allowed to seep into any holes/cracks/joints would be my preferred option. If the PVA doesn't leak out, your resin won't. Rearguards, Badder
  13. Hmmmmm ..... ponders. I know it all looks rather slap-dash messy at the moment, but when it comes to buildings, and especially ruined ones, it really pays to be messy and a bit clumsy I think. Paint, wet plaster, and plaster dust get everywhere just as in real life, and accidental knocks, scrapes and scratches are realistic damage after all so I never worry about knocking off plaster, chipping paint and stonework and splitting wood etc. And all of this messiness adds layers and affects variation. When I've sanded down that 'slapped on' plaster and have applied the washes and taken some of it back, it will look pretty good, I'm sure. This is always the best, most fun part of making buildings, I find. I really like the chimney, and the red brickwork around the barn doors, and because of that I've now decided to add more red brickwork. So, expect to see patches of brickwork repairs dotted about the place, and a lot of the last room changing from brownstone to brickwork. I'm also going to reduce the amount of roof tiles by a considerable amount. After dry-fitting roofs, I've come to the conclusion that the building looks much better 'opened up'. So, there'll be no 'almost intact' roof sections. They'll all be totally collapsed, or the skeletal remains of the rafters with just a few tiles left hanging here and there. And I've decided to have a lot more ivy growing over everything as well. Basically, I want the building to look much older than it's currently heading. TFL Badder
  14. I took some sand paper to the stove and got rid of a lot of the printer lines in the plastic. I also added some red brick colour to some bits of rubble around the fireplace. I haven't provided photos for the stove because it won't really be seen, and neither have I provided photos of the red brick rubble around the fireplace because the camera is picking that red out and making it look like chunks of ruby, while everything else looks a very dull and uniform grey. Next, I wanted to finally 'lock' the gable wall and the long side wall together at 90 degrees. Up until now there has been flex at the corner joint between the plastic and plaster gable wall, and the long FTINFBISS wall. So, I had to trim the floor, and file and sand both the other (newest) long wall, AND the gable wall to fit with the floor. CA was then dribbled along the edges of the floor to seep in and fix the floor to the inside of the gable wall and the first long wall. Skirting boards were added and painted, as were the window frames and sills. Certain that everything now fits together well, I could finally add plaster of paris rendering to the two side walls and fill the cavity in the joint between the gable wall and the first long wall. I also washed the skirting boards and window frames/sills with plaster dust to tone them down and scraped some bits of the gable wall back to reveal bare plaster. The newest long wall (RHS) is only dry-fitted and requires a lot more work. The new plaster will get a few washes with burnt umber, antelope brown and black acrylic inks before being scraped back to reveal patches of bare plaster again. TFL Badder
  15. Ha, you posted as I was typing my previous post. A minute or so earlier and I could have combined this with that. And now you've posted again, so this post is in response to 2 of yours. The crates are looking good. I had the same kit, but it said they were yellowish, which I assume means they were pine. But hey, posh loaders prefer mahogany. And I can't believe those are the shells from the kit. I couldn't paint mine for toffee (Tamiya brass wouldn't spray nicely and ended up waxy and patchy) and ended up buying their 'real' brass shells instead. I assume your rounds are for your KT and so will be 88mm. 2 armour piercing rounds will be all black with a white tip, while the High Explosive rounds will be yellow with a silver tip. Ah right, I got wrong end of stick about the burnt umber....twice! Not sure why the 'transparent' ink is thought necessary. They are all transparent if diluted. The Daler Rowney black is very black. Sounds silly, but it stays black when diluted, and doesn't turn a bluey colour like some. I have some on my hands right now actually. Most of it washes off but it does tend to stain the skin and get in and around fingernails. I'm a messy painter! There's a point where a wash with this black ink will look black, but once appled and allowed to dry it does disappear. If you get just the right amount of water though you can make some EXTREMELY subtle washes which only just tinge the underlying colour. Rearguards, Badder
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