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Badder last won the day on October 30 2017

Badder had the most liked content!

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5,228 Excellent


About Badder

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    Ronnie James Dio-rama fan
  • Birthday 28/03/1965

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    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Ah yes, 'NEWEL' and Q-tips. Thanks for that. It was doin' my head in. BTW. I didn't know your beer came in proper 'mugs' over there. I hope that beer is warm or it doesn't qualify. Rearguards, Badder
  2. Absolutely stunning. Somehow, with that colouring and weathering it really looks as if it's sat out in the heat of the Middle-Eastern sun. Rearguards, Badder
  3. A bit more weathering to do here, and a knob to add to the top of the post at the bottom. I'm sure there's a name for it, (the post) but it slips my mind at the moment. The post is made from the plastic tube of a cotton wool 'lug 'ole cleaner'. Yeah, I know they are called 'cotton wool buds' and you're not supposed to stick them in your ear, but that's what EVERYONE uses them for. Contrary to what I said a few pages ago, I am going to make a 'cupboard under the stairs', mainly because I like this shade of blue I've been using and will have the opportunity to use it some more. TFL Badder
  4. Hi Steve, There's not many of us about TBH. I don't know why. I find Thin CA is the best to use, but I'm using medium at the moment because I've run out of thin. Rearguards, Badder
  5. Hi Kev, and thanks. I'm repeating myself, but I discovered the CA'd paper thing by accident, funnily enough when I was making the MiniArt 'Ruined Village House' nearly 2 years ago. I say 'funnily' because that's the very house which became the main part of the building I am now....er... building here. MiniArt buildings are made up of vacuformed parts so when you join the inner and outer parts of a wall together the finished wall is hollow and compressible. And the contact areas for glue around the edges are tiny, so I thought to pack the insides with cardboard and paper first, to massively increase the contacts for glue and also to stop the walls being 'spongy'. Dousing the paper and cardboard with CA, I discovered that the paper set very rigid, like plastic, and so I later used it to make guttering for another building. There are times of course, where wood or plastic are better, but in this case I couldn't see how I would securely glue a strip of plastic or wood along the tops of the balusters. Some might do the 'proper' thing and drill tiny holes in the hand rail for the balusters to fit into, but that's beyond my capabilites. It's not exactly a motto, but I will nearly always use a 'found' mateiral to make things, rather than purchase materials or kits. Whenever I am out and about I will be on the look out for anything that might come in useful in the future. Rearguards, Badder
  6. Waste not, want not..... A scrap of graph paper, folded around a coffee stirrer to create a long 'half-pipe'. With the bend formed, I dribbled medium CA along the fold and rubbed it in until it dried hard. The CA dries and turns the paper into a plastic-like material. I could then amputate the half-pipe, the stiffness of the paper preserving the roundness of the bend. It was then a simple case of dribbling CA down the half-pipe and popping it over the balusters. BTW, I've used paper-soaked CA before, to make gutters for the building in my Ever Evolving Diorama. Something I'd learned back then was that CA turns paper into something which is then possible to sand and file. There will have to be more railings upstairs, to stop people from falling down the hole. TFL Badder
  7. A few weeks ago I saw this broom in a pavement display outside an old fashioned hardware store, and just had to buy it. For a few quid I got myself several hundreds of perfectly straight, narrow diameter, plastic 'rods'. They will be very handy and serve many uses - the first being balusters for my stairway. Now, rather than try drilling tiny holes down the stairs and inserting the bristles, I once again decided to lay things out and tack them to graph paper with dabs of CA. This way I could get the spacings right. Because, truth be told, the stairs aren't perfectly regular, and if I were to insert the balusters at the lip (for instance) of each step, the spacings would vary. Once the graph paper has served its purpose, it can be removed fairly easily. Soaking with water helps with the stubborn bits. It was then a case of dry-fitting the stairway/floor, positioning the banisters and working out where to trim the balusters. I've propped the bottom of the stairs up on a block which signifies the depth of the floor. The recently painted blue door (which was the one originally intended for the upper floor), the stairway and the upper floor are only dry-fitted here. The hardest bit will be to find a suitable material for the banister rail.... and then to fix it in place. I am thinking of maybe using a flattened 'half-pipe' of paper soaked in CA. TFL Badder
  8. Thanks John, Your reply prompted me to look at your location. I never noticed before. Lucky so-and-so! Rearguards, Badder
  9. Badder

    Meng Panther A

    A big cat prowls the savannah.... 'Tis a beauty. Not sure about those two long tufts of grass by the tree though. Rearguards, Badder
  10. It would have been funny if you'd had an allergy to the shed itself! Nice stash How many models do you currently have on the go then? Badder
  11. Great news Kev. I bet that's a huge relief. Did you suss it out yourself, or did you have blood tests? Good to see you're back at it. Shelves - a great source for diorama bases. I used one for my Carry on Regardless dio. It had a Formica veneer covering so I feared my plaster groundwork would fall off. First I took a scalpel to the top surface and cut and slashed at the veneer so as to improve the 'key' for the Polyfila. But then I had an even better idea which not only solved that problem, but also aided in the application of static grass, and that was to screw a sheet of wire mesh on top. I found the mesh on a builders' fly-tip and think it's actually designed to reinforce plaster in the building trade. BTW, I'd go for a 'split level' option, higher along the back, and maybe follow Pete's suggestion and have two lines. Rearguards, Badder
  12. Badder

    RMASG Centaur.

    Hi John, Fantastic build. She's gonna look wondeful with some paint on, I'm sure. Rearguards, Badder
  13. Hi Simon, Forgive my ignorance, but what is ISO? I thought it may have been a typo!
  14. Hi Steve, and welcome. I read your tag as Crop Duster BTW and thought of Cary Grant being chased across a corn field. Dunno how old you are, but it was a film made before I was born! Thank you for stumbling in and spending the time and effort to have a look and type such kind comments. I don't think I've ever received so many 'likes' from one person in one 'sitting'. I am glad that you've found the thread interesting enough to wade through. Believe me, I was rubbish when I first returned to this hobby after a 35yr gap, but joining BM and watching others work was the best learning curve there is, so I post this stuff hoping that there's some stuff of use to someone. However, I do fear at times that I waffle, like now, so I will just say thanks again, and I hope you find the rest of this thread helpful. Rearguards Badder. ps I'm hoping that was a joke about the inaccurate 'block'. If not, I'm going to have to scrap the entire building and start again.
  15. One of the OTHER disadvantages of my unplanned approach to building-building is having to cut doorways and window apertures through walls when those walls are already fixed to others! I didn't want to risk laying the building on its side, or upside down, in order to use a razor saw, so had to use a scalpel and cut through with the building positioned as is. It's taken me an hour, on and off. I know this doorway is going to be hidden (unless you get down low and peer through windows or under floorboards) but I had to put it in. There had to be access to the stairway from the main downstairs room, other than going out of the front door and walking around to a side door! I haven't quite finished with the filing of the door aperture. I have to take off a bit more top and sides so as to allow for the addition of the door jambs. The floor level camera-side will be pretty flush with the bottom of the door. This is the door 'borrowed' from the upper floor. I'm thinking now that it will be permanently 'borrowed' as it is very simple and requires no further work. I can make a better one for the upstairs. TFL Badder