Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8,771 Excellent

About Badder

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/28/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

Recent Profile Visitors

6,318 profile views
  1. No problem at all Mr P. As I said, it's a pleasure to help a fellow model-maker such as yourself, and any of those who may read and appreciate the advice as well. Once you get stuck into the process it is actually quite easy and you'll soon be able to work out little 'cheats' with more awkwardly shaped parts. Don't forget that you might decide never construct the kit itself, so you could chop the parts up to make moulding and casting easier. For instance, if a wall has a cornice running along the top, or a similar feature running across it at the first floor level (not sure what that
  2. Hi Rich, You really DON'T want to see what my workspace looks like normally lol. I have done my best to shield it from view, but after this visit to BM I will be constructing a proper 'filming booth' so it looks more professional lol TC Rearguards, Badder
  3. No probs and thank you! But your tiles are very effective as well. Your building is looking excellent and your figure way better than I could do! May I ask whether you are going to add the guttering and drainpipe and how are you going to make those? I've made a few myself but am always interested in how others do it. A suggestion for you... make loads and loads of tiles, glue them to a sheet of paper, then give them dozens of coats of latex. You'll then have a mould which can churn out hundreds in one go. Because I get the feeling you may make some more buildings after this
  4. Hi Major, I say that to myself all of the time! Were you quoting me? Lol. One upside, it's much more fun making ruined things. Thanks for your comments as always, and I congratulate you on your sticking with it. Rearguards, Badder
  5. Hi and thanks for that Clive, I hope you and yours are all well. I'll slip you a tenner for promoting my channel lol. Yes, it's quite heavy too! I haven't actually weighed it but I'm guessing 2-3kg lol BTW, I think Pig of the Week may be taking the mickey out of our Wiltshur axxunt. What do you reckon??? Rearguards, Badder
  6. Thanks Piggy, and Lol. Most appreciated. There is a 2nd, short 'teaser' vid available to see, touching on 'plaster dust washes' and a full detailed one will follow. I'm just about getting the hang of it all. Cheers about my accent. lol. Not often it gets complimented pmpl, Rearguards, Badder
  7. Mornin', evenin' whatever it is lol. Thanks. I managed to catch a few hours! Right......... latex moulds. Yes, cheaper and easier to make and easier to use than silicon moulds if the object has any 'poking out' features. So, as I said, you want the mould to be around 5mm thick, that is 5mm from the detailed surface, down through the latex, to the surface upon which you have seated the object. Now, you COULD paint thin layers of latex directly onto the details of the object, letting each one dry before painting the next, and keep painting it on until the latex is 5m
  8. Hi Piggy, I will get around to answering this, but the mould-making process isn't as straight forward as one would assume, but I haven't slept for nearly 20hrs and can't concentrate on giving full instructions lol. In fact, I've written full instructions twice now, and have just had to delete them again lol. Definitely the 'container' option is the way to go. The 'rear' of the mould, the bit that 'backs' the detailed surface needs to be around 5mm thick, for a large section of wall. You can get away with say a 2mm 'backing' for Tamiya's brick wall set. Gawd I can't keep
  9. As a matter of interest I just measured the Tamiya bricks and they look to be 7mm long. They could be 6.8mm but I wasn't going to get my magnifying glass out to worry about 0.2mm. As for embossed brickwork on card, I haven't seen any by Tamiya, but that doesn't mean they don't make them. I have seen others though. I have also seen vacuformed plastic sheets with brickwork or stonework on them. They are all perfectly good, but you're never going to beat bricks made from plaster of paris, which is basically 'stone' and is brittle, can crack, chip and be eroded away. If I were wanting to ma
  10. Thanks again. I'll be honest, the plaster dust, dirt, grime, and where I tend to mix paint on my cutting mat often ends up being applied as washes lol. Honest. I apply so many washes it saves on having to make them up every time! Badder.
  11. Excellent stuff Moondrome. That's looking most impressive. Your patience will pay off massively and it's always good to invest in a mould. I myself have built a roof, but in a collapsed state. However, I used 3 sheets of graph paper, glued together with CA glue, marked out columns of tiles side by side, then cut that sheet into columns. I then glued those columns onto another sheet with CA, and cut that sheet into horizontal strips. That gave me hundreds of tiles, each tile having been cut along the vertical and horizontal, but with every tile in a row stuck onto a backing, so I n
  12. They were going to be daisies lol. But they look more like buttercups. And I didn't bother cleaning my brush properly so they are off-yellow. I wasn't bothered about any of that because the card, thin as it is, is way too thick and it didn't respond well to being poked in the middle with a scriber. So I'd scrapped the idea even before I took the photos. They are there just to show it didn't work. As I said, I will be using very thin paper for the flowers and leaves in the very near future. As for 'house' bricks being out of scale, it really depends by how much and whether they look
  13. Thanks Jeroen, and LOL. Sorry about that. The video was 'found footage' the kind that featured in 'The Blair Witch Project' and other total rubbish like it . I shall try to be less seasick-inducing in future. But no, I doubt I'll ever be running the channel in a 'professional studio-type way'. That just isn't the way I work when it comes to dioramas. I'm very messy. Rearguards, Badder
  14. I've just made an introductory video for my new YouTube channel 'Badder's Good Diorama Tips'. Click on the link provided if you want to hear my thick west-country accent. Don't expect a 'studio-quality' vid, or even a hobby-room vid, this is pure mess lol. But hopefully it's entertaining. Comments welcomed.  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jioZlljQPHY05QzTQ2zMA

  15. Click on this link to see my vid........ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jioZlljQPHY05QzTQ2zMA
  • Create New...