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Badder last won the day on October 7

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

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    Ronnie James Dio-rama fan
  • Birthday 28/03/1965

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    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Hi Stix, That certainly looks a lot 'easier' than the usual Dragon fare. I must say that those tracks look particularly good, with open 'eyelets' in the central track guides, and the more open (holey) links in general. Waaaaay better than the Tamiya rubber bands. Rearguards, Badder
  2. Badder


    Here is a photos of my first Nashorn, and my first(?)a ttempt at a heavily worn, winter camo. Shortly after this photo was taken, I decided to add bicarb snow, which was stuck in place with painted-on hairspray lacquer. I later changed my mind and it was whilst trying to remove this bicarb/lacquer, by soaking, that the Nashorn began to fall apart. Bear in mind that I'd previously 'completed' the painting, as seen in the photos below, but had to strip the whole lot back to the plastic after the ruination of the finish. To strip the entire model back to the plastic took over 2 weeks, so I was very pleased with how the repainting turned out in the photo above. You can imagine my horror when if began to fall apart. Ultimately, the thing deserved being smashed to pieces! This time, I am fully confident in my winter camo techniques, and WON'T be adding bicarb snow to the vehicle! TFL Badder
  3. Badder

    Tamiya Sdkfz163 1/35.

    Hi Steve, I was going for the same kit, with full PE and PE zimmerit, but was gifted a Nashorn, so that won the day. However, IF I get the Nashorn done in plenty of time, I may do the StuG as well. Good luck with yours, and I will be watching closely to see what I'm missing! Rearguards, Badder
  4. Badder


    All thanks to Ozzy, Stix - I can't thank him enough! And you are too kind about my Sherman's winter camo. I confess it was a piece of cake. I seriously believe that dirt/dust/fine grit in the paint helped with the effect, and it wasn't intentional! The Nashorn is a different kettle of fish though, what with those expansive and plain side panels. Chipping whitewash is more effective on detailed parts, I reckon. I'm probably going to go for a 'cleaner' look. Probably. Maybe. Rearguards, Badder. You're not wrong there guys! I think the early Hummel with the exhaust muffler wins it by a whisker, just for that extra little detail. But I'm looking at some WWII Nashorn photos and I'm liking the look of a few of them. i may be scratching a few bits and pieces after all. Rearguards, Badder. Yep, all well and good Clive, I can't thank you enough, Rearguards, Badder
  5. Hi Stix, It says on the box 'for immediate assembly' so I expect it to be all glued together one minute after 'opening time' Rearguards, and good luck, Badder
  6. Badder


    Tamiya 1/35th NASHORN Pachyderm packs a punch First off, a HUGE thank you to @Ozzy whom, for reasons known only to himself, thought to gift this Nashorn to me. He did say, however, that he remembered the birth, life and untimely death of my previous Nashorn, and 'felt sorry for me'. I'm paraphrasing there, and putting words into his mouth, but hey, that's the gist of it. Humbled by his generoustiy and thoughtfulness, I have delved into my stash and am donating a boxed Tamiya 1/35th Cromwell to his Help For Heroes work. Prologue. I originally entered this GB, intending to have a second go at a Nashorn, with full PE, but I discovered that the price of said model had risen by 30 percent in the past 2 years, from over 30 quid, to over 40 quid, and the full PE has increased in cost as well, taking the total to over 100 quid! That was too rich for me. I decided then, to fall back on Tamiya's Golden Oldie, StuGIV and uprgade this with PE and PE zimmerit - a lot of PE, but still a fraction of the cost of the full-beans Nashorn. Ozzy's kind gift though, has ressurrected the Nashorn, and, after much deliberation and studying of the interweb, I have realised that the full beans PE isn't worth the money anyway. There are no PE parts for the gun itself, and really, the only 'worthwhile' parts are for the ammo boxes. And the racks inside those boxes are (in my experience) a bit of a pig to make. The kit's gun barrel is pretty good, requiring only minimal 'de-lousing' and is nice and straight, so I won't bother with a metal replacement. The tracks are pretty good too, so I won't be bothering with an upgrade there either. This Nashorn then, will be OOB. In honour of my previous NASHORN, RIP (Rest In Pieces) I shall be sticking with the winter camo. This time, however, I will NOT be using hairspray 'juice' and bicarb for snow effects. 'Tis this, I believe, combined with a final rinse in warm water, that caused the orginal to begin to fall apart in my hands, and prompted the 'absolute' falling apart due to sudden, repeated, and violent impacts against the hot water tap. Finally, 'Pachyderm' is a term most often associated with elephants, but it does encompass any thick-skinned, hoofed mammal, including elephants, hippopotamusessesses, and rhinoceri. 'Nashorn' (for those who don't know) is German for 'Giraffe'. No. Really. It's not. Good luck to all in the GB, and even if you don't get to finish on time (I may well be one such person) PLEASE DO STILL VOTE! Badder
  7. Badder

    pink foam priming

    Ah ha! The poster returns! Hello S.E. Charles, As I said, I had no idea what pink foam was. With no response forthcoming. explaining what it was, or what you are using it for, I assumed you were using if for constructing buildings as surface detailing isn't something I'd associate with the ground itself. For buildings then, a material that loses surface detail and requires priming before painting, doesn't sound ideal to me, However, I am happy to hear that bazillions of people use pink foam for that purpose. I haven't seen anyone make buildings with it here, on BM, but hey, not many people scratch-build buildings. Mitch K, though, does, and has run into the same problems as you, so perhaps he'd appreciate it if you'd share the answer here? Rearguards, Badder
  8. This will be the last update for a while. Aside from other things, there's the forthcoming PzIV GB coming up, and I need to clear the decks. I've got the last walls of the building more or less done, Some loose stones need to be added along the tops, here and there. Oh, and that brickwork window surround. I keep forgetting that! The plastered walls were painted and then scraped back. A series of washes and scrapings followed, until I got the desired effect. Like all of the other walls, these are now in their 'base' condition. Algae, moss, lichen, mold, ivy, etc will be added to all of them to a greater, or lesser extent. There will be a demarkation line of exposed stonework running across the plaster where the upper floor level would be. Saying that, most of the wall is gone, so the line will only be a few centimetres long, striking through the joist hole top right in the photo below. And finally, the 'Piff and Paff', in the wall cavities. At some point I will be re-visiting previous cavities, reworking their Piff and paff. Well, as I said, this will be the last post for a while, but I'm hoping to get some work done, here and there. I imagine I will be able to cut up roof tiles, make laths and glue rafters together during my 'spare time'. Thanks to all those who have contributed to this thread with your kind comments, advice, criticisms and witticisms. I hope you've enjoyed it as much as I have. I've learned a few more techniques during this project and I hope some of you have found something of use as well! For those who are entering the PzIV STGB, I will see you there shortly! Rearguards, Badder
  9. I've trimmed the floorboards to their correct length, and have dry-fitted the floor. I could collapse it now, but I'm going to wait until I've plastered and painted the interior walls. Hopefully, some damage will be done to the painted plaster when I do collapse the floor. So, the next job is underway: the plastering of the internal walls. Here, I've plastered the inside of the gable wall. I've also squidged plaster into the wall cavities as 'Piff and paff', and have applied a plaster-wash to the exteriors of both walls. TFL Badder.
  10. Progress on the wall stuttered with a failed attempt at the brickwork surround. I used slivers of FBTINFBBISS, with the bricks carved into them, but I bodged them up and decided to remove them. I will try again. But I did continue with the rest of the wall, adding the stonework pattern, lintels, and a wooden beam for the floor on the inner side. The wooden beam slots into a hole cut into the wall at the back of the photo, like the floor joists. I suppose this beam is a floor joist as well, only it's thicker and also supports the side wall, kind of. Probably, this beam will be snapped when I collapse the floor. TFL Badder
  11. Indeed Graeme, It's crazy to think I have spent 6 months so far, making a diorama for that very Sherman, almost a year after I started making that Sherman! The new GB will obviously put a halt on this dio, but at lest this dio can be used to show off whatever I make in the GB! Rearguards, Badder
  12. Badder

    Mickey Mouse!

    Good job(s) Paul. I saw some diagrams of Mickey Mouse camo schemes a while back, and was surprised to discover that the pattern stopped at the 'roof line': the foofs/tops of vehicles painted in the darker colour alone. I say it surprised me, because even from childhood I'd seen lots of model Quad tractors with the dark green and sand yellow Mickey Mouse pattern up on the roof.! Maybe there was a bit of artistic licence of the 'rules' going on during the war and model-makers aren't incorrect ih having the camo up on the roofs? Whatever, I see that you're either aware of the official pattern rules, or you've inadvertently obeyed them. Which is it? Rearguards, Badder
  13. Badder

    1/72 RAF SAR Leconfield

    6ft x 4ft?? Wow. I take it you have a crane to move it about and a museum to display it in? Seriously though. Good luck. Rearguards, Badder