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Badder

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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

  • Rank
    SCHOOL OF PAINT RUB BACK REPAINT RPT X 7 MODELMAKING
  • Birthday 03/28/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wiltshire
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Just a little update. The insert with the more decrepit wall section has been weathered a bit more and is almost finished in terms of construction. I just have to add a few bricks to the right hand edge, where the rectangular space is. I'm adding them to the insert, rather than to the brownstone section so when it's removed that brownstone section will have a step in it, rather than be vertically defined. Here's the building with no roofing. If I display the model like this I will have to add all the roof debris, which I intend to make. Here's the building with just the large section of roof added. And with the other insert in place. I've also decided to whitewash or add render to the upper half of the building. I may use CA'd paper to do the latter. For now though, I'm experimenting with just applying white ink and weathering it. TFL Badder
  2. Hi Mark, Ah, I understand the desire for both being seen together now. Many a military model-maker will be jealous of your hands on experience of the real things! I know I am! Many of us have returned to this 'childhood hobby' later in life. I left it 35yrs before finding myself lured back when I 'accidentally' saw some of the old Tamiya kits I once made, still being sold today. Having more spare time on my hands, I just couldn't resist buying a few oldies that I'd made as a kid, plus some oldies that my pocket money could never afford. I've still got some of those oldies in the stash, more in fact than I have the later kits. But dioramas are my 'thing'. I've only made a couple since my return and am now concentrating on 2 long term dios, hoping to make the very best that I can. If I live long enough to get them both done I'll probably call it a day for dios and stick to simple vignettes! Have fun, take your time, and don't be scared to re-do bits you think you can do better. I think it's better to be very fussy and do the very best you can now, rather than thinking 'That's rubbish' in a few months or years. I shall follow your progress and look forward to seeing more. Rearguards, Badder
  3. Hi Mark, I am not an expert on British armour, but Niall questions those two tanks being seen together. I will bow to his superior knowledge, but I would question whether the 8th Army got rid of its Shermans and Fireflies and replaced the lot with the new tanks all on the same day? Whatever, I do think it's a mistake to show both tanks in the one diorama, not because it's probably historically inaccurate, but because the diorama looks too cramped. Personally, I'd want that base to be half as big again, minimum. Or, I'd just have the one tank placed in it. As for your groundwork, that's all looking very promising. The cobbled sections, rubble and soil are excellent, and it's a shame to plonk a tank over it and hide it all - another reason for just having the one tank. The angled railway tracks look good. Always best to have things at an angle. I like the rusty rails (they'd be shiny silver on top if in use) and I like the sleepers and ballast. Various dark washes, and some greens will age those nicely, being that the line is unused and moss and other plants will have started to grow amongst it. As for a bomb/mortar crater, I'd only put that in if I were going to display the one tank, again because it will cramp the cramped diorama even further. Oh, I forgot to mention the muddy footprints. Excellent! I hope you used a 'stamp' and didn't have to paint those treads by hand! If you did the latter, then fair play to you! A very promising and good 'first' diorama. Better than mine was! I look forward to seeing your next update. Badder
  4. I could have sworn I had added these photos..... First off, I carved some red brickwork directly into the FTINFBISS, in the gaps between the paper 'render', painted and weathered it with the usual plaster dust wash. There's one brick which almost got 'halved' by an errant press with the scalpel blade and it's showing up here because of the dust wash. I will have to fill it and paint it red again. Fussy, I know. I then added the stonework window surround, because I forgot to do it beforehand, which would have been the better option! Whatever, it too got a wash with plaster dust. Everything is plaster-dusty and will get partially cleaned off at some point. It doesn't matter when. The full or partial cleaning will affect everything differently and that adds realism. Then I'll probably add some more red brickwork to the right of the window, and repeat the whole weathering process over everything. Again. Maybe the last lot of red bricks will look slighter 'fresher'? Who knows? I then moved onto the window below. As the wall section below is a permanent fixture and not an insert like the wall/window shown above, I thought it would be best to fix the window to the exterior, rather than on the interior 'insert'. I was measuring everything out and preparing to make window frames, and thought I'd best check my spares box first. Lo and behold, I found a spare scratch-built window frame which I had made earlier. A couple of years earlier! I can't remember if this was one I'd made for my extended MiniArt Ardennes building, or this one. Whatever, it only needed a bit of sanding to fit, and is dry fitted here: I particularly like the shape of the broken glass here. I have yet to paint the rest of the frame and sill. And that curve in the interior sill needs seeing too as well. Apart from all of the above, I've been continuing to 'fit' the different sections of the building, sanding and filing walls and filling gaps so that it will all join together as neatly as possible. So, I've been dismantling the sections and having a look at things. I decided to strip some of the wall plaster (CA'd paper) from the wall beside the chimney brest. That's revealed the 'fresh' white plaster beneath..... which I dirtied just a little bit. A few scraps of CA'd paper were more stubborn and remain, slightly peeling off down the side of the brest and the 'look' is much more interesting and more realistic I think. And looking the other way, at the other section, I will be removing most of the debris from the floor of the room. That's because the debris on show here is of stonework and rafters meant to be a collapsed dormer window, not a 'normal' window as it should be now. When it comes to replacing that debris it will consist entirely off roof tiles, rafters, floor beams, floor boards and red bricks. If I'm displaying the building in it's more decrepit state there will be a very large number of said items on the floor, to match the debris that would have fallen from the low-pitched roof. If I'm displaying the building where the low-pitched roof is more or less intact, there will be less debris on the floor. So, being fussy, I have to model both versions. The debris for the intact version will be permanently fixed in place, whilst the debris for the decrepit version will, like the inserts, be removable. It sounds crazy, but hey. I suspect I'll be able to lump the extra debris in two or three pieces. TFL Badder
  5. Hi Steve, I don't drink coffee myself. 'Tis a foul substance' although I do like coffee liqueurs, coffee liqueur chocolates and coffee breaks. (A specific break from work during which one is free to drink, or not drink coffee) As for coffee stirrers, I think they were invented to cut down on staffing costs, by switching tol 'self-service' coffee points. The wooden stirrers appeared soon after, in response to patrons stealing steel or silver tea spoons, the latter being the kind of cutlery laid out at 'top class' restaurants, and patronized by top class thieves. One suspects that one 'started at the bottom': stealing and selling steel spoons and, after making suitable profits, advancing to those higher circles. Although as you said, there they tend to drink tea, but it still moves in circles when one stirs it. I myself prefer tea, and have been known to drink as many as 2 cups in one year. But that was many years ago and I couldn't tell you which year it was. 7 years ago? I may have had one on the morning after my wedding day? On the diorama front, I have made some minor and fiddly progress and I arrived here to find that I hadn't posted an update! I was sure I had! So thanks for jogging my memory. Images will appear here as if by magic in mere minutes! Keep safe dude! Badder
  6. Hi Sean, I once found a laptop in a skip. It was made in china, and when I took it apart to fix it, it looked very similar inside! Seriously though, that's a nice job all round. I'm wondering if you can make the gun elevate as well? Rearguards, Badder
  7. I always find window frames a chore to make, and more so of late, simply because I'd forgotten that I had made myself a little jig to make the job easier! It's been a long while since I scratch-built windows! So, with the jig found lurking in an old tool box, I set about making the window for the upper floor 'intact' insert. First, the jig. Just 2 pairs of coffee stirrers glued back to back and spaced to accept 2 coffee stirrers at a time. So, two stirrers can be slotted edgeways on, in the slot like so: It's then a case of sanding the stirrers down to the level of the jig, or running a scalpel along the jig (with the blade flat against the jig guides, and removing the excess wood. Sanding gives a neater finish, but will wear the jig down over time. Cutting with a scalpel is ok, but needs sanding afterwards to get rid of any splinters. On the plus side, the excess, once removed is wide enough to be slotted into the groove and make more framework, I then made the window frame and added glazing. I construct my window frames by gluing them to a sheet of graph paper, keeping everything square and true. The paper helps hold the parts together until dry. I then cut around the window frame and remove it, but leave the paper attached to the rear of the frame and filling the place where the glass would go. I then run CA around the frame, turn the whole thing over and place it face down onto a sheet of transparent plastic. My plastic is sourced from supermarket shelf labelling. Once all that's dry, I paint the frames, including the paper on the reverse side. Once that's dry I soak the paper with water, and sand and pick the paper off. Where paper is left on the frame, it mimics layers of fresher paint which has not yet flaked off, like most of it has. That's not showing up so well in the photo below because I ran a dark wash over everything. Dry brushing will bring the 'flaky' paint back. TFL Badder
  8. Hi Steve, I'm happy to read that you managed to escape. If you'd waited longer the rust would have done its job and the door would have fallen off its hinges. But I understand your impatience. I was somewhat confused used by your comment about laloin. I assumed this was pertinent to sheep, and a word of French origin, 'la loin'. I'm not sure if that's correct, but the 'smell of laloin' must be pretty gross indeed! Hang on. I'm just hearing on the grapevine that you meant lanolin. Tut. Those typos eh? Thanks for liking my stones. I've used various methods to replicate them, but I've still not settled on my favourite. I do sometimes wonder if it would be easier to cast hundreds of individual stones/bricks and glue them all together individually. I suppose though, that casting entire walls in plaster is the best option, and then work on them. Whatever, the painting/weathering side is always great fun and that might explain why I re-paint and re-weather them so much! Anyway, glad to hear you're doing okay. I ventured out of my locale for the first time since March last week, having to go for neurological tests at a distant hospital. It was quite a scary experience to actually be mere meters away from other human beings other than my wife. I was also surprised how much traffic was on the roads. I had imagined it would be post apocalyptic out there, but it was like any 'normal' day. Mad world. TC Badder
  9. I've continued work on the 'inserts', firstly 'collapsing' the red brickwork. I then added 'render' to the wall exterior and interior. This render, or plaster, was made simply by CA'ing bits of torn and cut paper directly to the bricks and, in the case of the lower interior, to the FTINFBISS. Dirty water washes were then applied before running sandpaper over the paper. Some targetted washes followed. Split and cut Coffee stirrers were used to make the remains of the window frame and the lintel. Exterior: Interior: The raking light is making the paper render/plaster look much more bulky than it is. I may still sand a lot of it down though. Not sure of the technical term, and I can't be bothered to look it up, but 'the beam that runs across the wall and holds the joists up' was a piece of stick which was found laying in my lane, attached to the remains of a burnt out firework rocket last november. I then switched to working on the other insert. Firstly, I decided to remove the layer of paper covering the wall. Stupid me. In the process I damaged the paper window surrounds and had to remove them. Luckily it's no big deal. I moved on and made the window frames, again using split, cut and sanded coffee stirrers. I also added a few loose tiles, some of which are down in the 'hole' in the roof, resting on the rafters. And, rather than add the usual coffee stirrer window sill, I thought it would be interesting to use a row of tiles instead. The two inserts: And the 'nearly finished' insert slotted into plac The sharp-eyed among you might notice that I've been fiddling with the bottom right hand corner of the roof and barge boards again. This is because I'm still in the process of getting both inserts to fit nicely, and look proper in respect of architectural construction, whilst one insert is relatively undamaged, and the other is collapsed. I believe I have figured out how best to do it now. Before I get onto that though, I'm going to remake the stonework window surrounds, and make the window/frame for the ground floor. TFL Badder
  10. Hi SgtPappas, The heading of Metallica's 'One' piqued my interest! I was expecting to see a field hospital diorama with a poor chap in bed missing his arms and legs. Yes, I know the song. Personally, it's not among the top 10 of my favourite Metallica songs, but it's still a very good one! I think I have an idea of what you're hoping to achieve, but I don't know how you're going to manage it. With the kits you've shown it strikes me that it's not going to be a small diorama! There are plenty of people in BM who will be more than willing to offer advice. Don't be afraid to ask. Tamiya's British infantry on patrol kit is a nice one, with nice natural poses and crisp detailing of the uniforms and equipment. The faces and hands are particularly good when compared to most of their other figure models, which is nice because it makes it a lot easier for those of us who aren't very good at face-painting! I just applied a bit of shading over a lightened flesh base coat and then applied some darker pin washes to the eyes, mouth and insides of the ears and they turned out to be my best ever figures. I look forward to seeing your progress. Rearguards, Badder
  11. I decided to move the new cross beam, partly because it fouled the chimney stack, but mostly because I realised I was going to have to add another cross beam lower down the roof where the two roof pitches met. So, I killed two birds with one stone. With the new cross beam in place at the join between the upper and lower roof sections, I could trim the rafters of both and slot them into to notches cut into the cross beam. I wanted to show how the tiles of the upper roof section overlapped those of the lower section, so I ran a row of tiles across the rafters on the left. When the lower roof section is fitted, its top row of tiles will slot under these. Otherwise, I can leave the lower section of roof off and photograph the building in its more decrepit state. With the position of the cross beam permanently fixed, I trimmed the rafters of the lower roof section to fit, and finalised the tiling and the barge boards, and the woodwork under the eaves. I will be adding guttering. I still haven't decided what to do with the face of the wall.... render, red brickwork, or brownstone, but whatever, it will be a removable section. Here it is, removed from the building. And here it is, in situ: The positioning and sizes of the holes in the roof were influenced by the detailing of the interior. I liked the red brickwork 'repairs' at the apexes of the supporting walls, and the chimney stack, so wanted to be able to see these features from the outside. I then decided to make a different version of the 'front' wall, to increase photographic opportunities. So, as well as the lower section of roof and front wall shown above, I am also making a collapsed roof and front wall which can be swapped over. A piece of FTINFBISS was cut to slot in behind the lowermost section of front wall, and plaster cast red brickwork was CA'd to the top half. The two following photo show how the assembly drops into place behind the lower wall, but how the red brickwork on the top half form the upper half of the outer wall.... I hope that makes sense! I erred on the side of caution with this 'insert', making it taller than it need be. It will of course be trimmed to the correct height before I collapse it quite significantly. I will therefore have to make another version of the lower roof section - one that is almost completely collapsed. The debris from this collapsed version of the roof/wall will have to be made as well, and will also have to be removable! For that, I have a cunning plan! Wibble. TFL Badder Badder
  12. Mostly, I've been fiddling about with a few things here and there. I added a roof support beam, which ended up fouling the chimney stack, so I've trimmed it off for now. It will get repaired at that end. I also started building the corner of the gable wall, adding a section of red brickwork to the inner face. Meanwhile I ripped out 75 percent of the debris on the ground floor as the stonework and sections of roof no longer matched the surrounding walls and roof. Now most of the debris will be roof tiles and batons, with the odd red brick. The upper section of walls still has the graph paper stuck to it. It actually looks quite good as it is (I use paper as plaster or render) but this section is intended to be red brick. I will give it a the same treatment..... a layer of paper plaster/render. TFL Badder
  13. Well, TBH I thought if you yourself felt no shame, why should I?
  14. As promised, I'm not posting a pic of me with my Covid-beard. But here's one of me taken about 10yrs ago, when I'd lost weight and didn't realise I was type-1 diabetic. I'm about a 10kgs heavier now. I think we were playing 'Sweet leaf' by Black Sabbath here. Beer clouded my memory of when the photos were taken.
  15. That looks like a catalogue pose Clive. 'Man pointing at lego car whilst wearing Littlewood's gentleman's smoking jacket'.
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