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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

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  • Birthday 28/03/1965

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    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Thanks for the 'gobsmacked' Nigel. Much appreciated. I don't think I've had one of those before. I have to confess that I am surprised by the realism of the glacis as a whole, in the photos above. But then, my work always seems to me to look WAY better under magnification than it does actual size! Hopefully, everyone can see my technique .....I just base-coat, then slap colours on in a particular order, then rub some, or a lot of it off, and if it doesn't look how I want it to, I repeat and repeat until it does! Honestly though, I think Nassy will be contesting my Sherman for 'my best model ever'. None of the others come close, except for potentially a Willys Jeep which is only built and painted to the 'pre-diorama' stage and has lots of stowage, figures, mud and snow to add! As for Nassy, there's still a dozen or more small bits and pieces to add before the final matt coat, but I do feel as if I'm getting close to finishing. Then there's the figures. THAT is a whole other adventure. I am not good at faces! Rearguards, Badder
  2. I tried a new mix for mud, made from ash from a coal fire, acrylic medium, some ground-up plastic (Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow) and acrylic inks. I dabbed some on the lower front hull and spare tracks and applied a tiny bit to the rear step and towing bracket at the rear of the vehicle. I can't say that it was entirely successful, but it wasn't awful: Grit paints, some vegetable matter and a bit of snow will help make the front look better I think. Darkening the mud on the rear step and the towing bracket below it might help. And the observant might have noticed that I've fitted the gun travel lock and towing cable in place and have added a scratch across the gun mantlet. Happenstance, or a clever choice of materials by Tamiya? Once painted, the string used to make the cable length is indiscernible from the kit's plastic cable within the eyelets. Yes, the lowermost eyelet has a 'hole' in the crimp that needs filling. It's actually a gap where the string wasn't fully inserted into the groove. BONUS PICTURES Yet to balance the chipping with that in the photo above. The scratch above the radiator grill - a real scratch made with a blunt scalpel blade and given a streaking-over with 'whitewash'. And finally for tonight: Next job, the headlamp and driver's viewing hatch. TFL Badder
  3. Hi Francis, The cable and the gun travel lock are just 'resting' on the model in the photos. The cable actually fits well, because it's string, not plastic or wire. And the copper wire will be painted. I suspect the real thing was made from thin multi-strand metal cable, but Tamiya don't say. Rearguards, Badder
  4. Badder

    Sd.Kfz. 165 Hummel - decals on

    We seem to have similar interests then Robert, I've done a fair bit of artwork over the years, though more your Sci-fi, fantasy stuff. I did a lot of work for a local Heavy Metal band in the 90's and regularly bump into people who still have my artwork on their walls! Liking the magazine cover. Typical Nazi brainwashing material. That'd keep 'em warm on the Eastern Front - when set alight! Rearguards, Badder
  5. Many thanks, i'm glad you like it. I personally like the dry mud more than the wet one, hence the appearance. The tracks will be attenuated later, although they will not have mud, rather dust ... Hi Francis, Getting mud to look 'wet' AND realistic, is quite difficult, I think. That's why your dried mud looks more realistic and is your and my favourite. Yes, you can mix gloss varnish in with the texturing medium to make wet mud, but it doesn't look right at small scales. Satin varnish is probably better. Better still though, I think, is to have matt particles in a satin/gloss medium - and that's not easy to do! Rearguards, Badder
  6. Badder

    Sd.Kfz. 165 Hummel - decals on

    Hi Robert, All looking good! An interesting collection of goodies you have there. A nice 'pin-up' poster slapped on the side of your Bee will improve its looks by a factor of about 1,000,000. How are you at figure painting? I'm rubbish! BTW, Tamiya's solid Nashorn barrel is great, with only the faintest of seam lines. So faint, I removed them with my thumbnail. The added 3-part muzzle has a ring inside with a 'shell width' aperture (not sure what it's called) and whilst you can see beyond that, the solid barrel isn't really visible. Rearguards, Badder
  7. Right, ITHINK I have the whitewashing done on the side-panels, and possibly everywhere else, barring maybe some more at the rear, and touch-ups after the last few parts have been added. The problem I had, was matching one side of Nassy with the other, in terms of 'character'. One side panel had a worn patch, exposing the underlying camo, and the whitewash was quite bright and streaky towards the rear of the vehicle and yellowish towards the front. The opposite side had no exposed camo (barring the cleaned areas around the cross and Pommern logo) and the whitewash was duller and slightly yellowy towards the rear, with the streaking less discernible. Whilst the differences between the side panels could have been legitimate - with many possible causes; differing mixes of whitewash, different crew members applying them, different influences on the whitewash by rain/sleet/splashes/brushings with obstacles, etc - my instinct was to balance them. And of course, it's never easy to get two complicated finishes the same, especially when you can't see them side by side! So it was a case of replicating the original processes for one panel, on the other and constantly turning the vehicle around to compare the results. I got there in the end. Although the chipping has yet to be balanced. Oh, and I did add a horizontal scratch to the front end. With that done, I thought I'd construct the gun travel lock. This is currently only rested in place, but in the intended 'dropped' position. Nashorn travel locks dropped to a position 60 degrees from the horizontal and were prevented from dropping further and hitting the driver's roof by a chamfer at the hinge end. Obviously, the copper wire will be painted, and the hinges will be located/positioned properly. Next, methinks some mud on the lower hull, front and rear. TFL Badder
  8. wow It's those damnable yellow flowers again! They really are excellent - lifting the groundwork from superb to perfect! You'll have to remind me where you got them Stix and don't say 'an online shop' I want the company/product names please! Rearguards, Badder
  9. The tow cable. I ended up using the kit parts as scratching accurately detailed 'loops' at the ends proved beyond me. Here, the cable is dry-fitted, and only partly painted: The clamp (lowermost of the 3 tow-cable fasteners) holds the record for 'The Highest Number of Unsuccessful Escapes' that being 32. And I stuck the spare wheels on, gave a spatter with white and a wash with earth colours: Meanwhile, I'm trying to balance the character of the side panels..... which is proving rather difficult! Hopefully that will be done by the end of play today. TFL Badder
  10. Hi Dennis, Good to read you are well. I was doing exceptionally well with regards to my blood-sugar levels for 6 months, getting my average below 10 and heading towards the 8's, but then Christmas and New Year happened. I've struggled to get my levels back down below 10 since. Still, they are lower than they've been for the previous 7yrs! It's hard to keep motivated though - a recent relapse with my CIDP hasn't helped, but I will get back to being a good boy. 7 builds????? Crikey. That's as many as I've done since joining BM 4yrs ago, I think! I'm unable to take part in the Patton build, primarily because I really do have to get ONE of my big dioramas finished this year, and, what with my entry into the Tiger STGB, I'll be hard pushed to reach that goal. And on the subject of dioramas, I am considering 'Evolving' my 'Ever Evolving Diorama' into a winter one - the reason being that I have no AFVs to inhabit it as a'summer' scene, but I will have 2 winterised German AFVs when this STGB is over - A StuG III and this Nashorn. I could remove the Ardennes Building from that diorama and replace it with my ruined farmhouse from the Pit Stop diorama. We shall see. It's all part of the fun as they say. Reargaurds, Badder
  11. Hi Dennis, LTNC, or is it LTNS? I hope you are well? Good luck with the 18 pages. Most of it is waffle or photos of things done, and re-done, and re-re-done, seemingly ad infinitum! I think the whitewash is just about finished though and I'm heading towards adding the last few bits and pieces, so hopefully you won't have too many extra pages to read! Rearguards, Badder Hi Robert, The string is in good condition. The cable it represents will be..... er.... in a similar state. Rearguards, Badder
  12. Update. I spent 3hrs trying to glue a tow-cable clamp to Nassy's glacis. It's a small part - approx. 2mm x 2mm and 3/4mm thick. I must have dropped it 20 times, and pinged it 10 times but miraculously found it each time within 3mins. I say miraculous because at one point it pinged into my rubbish bin - but landed on a crisp packet near the top and didn't fall into the hell below. and on another occasion it pinged off across my messy table in an unknown direction, making no sound upon impact to give me a clue as to where I should search - so I thought 'start off looking at soft things - and I found it within a minute, resting on a piece of kitchen roll. Anyway, it's fitted now and I consoled myself with some fairly extensive fiddling with the whitewash AGAIN! No pics for now because it's way past my bed time and I have to be at work in stupidly-few hours. G'nite all. Badder
  13. Hi Francis, Thanks. I was really looking forward to 'chipping' the gun after seeing some of the excellent 'gun work' done by others - a Wespe, and a Marder spring to mind. But I did kind of rush mine when it came to painting and weathering. I did an unusual thing (for me anyway) and that was to construct most of the gun before painting it. Then I couldn't get to all of the areas that might get chipped. If I build another Nashorn or open-topped AFV, then I'll paint and chip the parts before construction. Still, I'm fairly pleased with the result. Rearguards, Badder Hi Glynn, Ah, now, the tracks. Cough. When I base-coated Nassy, and started messing about with camo, I made sure to cover up the tracks so as not to contaminate them. But when I started the whitewashing I didn't bother masking them. During the many 'rubbing back' procedures, a fair bit of white ink, and some antelope brown or burnt umber ink has spattered the tracks. The spatter was very fine though and now those spattered areas of track do look rather nice. Certainly, the spatter is natural-looking, because, well, it got there naturally! So, I won't be washing it off. I will be adding mud/snow AFTER this GB is finished though, so it may end up immaterial. Rearguards Badder
  14. Hi Francis, As you probably know, the muds I've used are homemade - usually made with Japanese Grit Paints, coloured with acrylics/enamels/inks and 'improved' with 'found' materials such as sand/grit etc. but I don't think I've quite got the mixes right yet. Personally, I think Stix is the one to watch for mud. Your mud looks like a sandy, gravelly mud which would dry like concrete..... and that's exactly the effect you've achieved with the mud on the wheels, mud flaps and on the rear of the StuG. I have to say though, that the mud on the Shurzen is absolutely blindingly brilliant - the best I've ever seen. I imagined that your StuG had crossed a shallow river with a gravel bed, and then up a churned up muddy/sandy/gravelly bank where other vehicles had already crossed and turned it into a deeply rutted quagmire, rather like the one in your photo above. I don't know if you're going to muddy up the tracks later on. I know I'll be adding mud to mine, but I won't do that until Nassy has a diorama to sit in. The mud would just get knocked off with handling otherwise. Rearguards, Badder
  15. That’s a really nice photo of a Panzer IV in a museum with heavily oxidised tracks.. I wonder where it was last run for any appreciable length of time??? Hi Plasto, Errr.... a museum? . And there I was thinking that photo was taken in Werner's Portable Tank-Repair Shop on the Eastern Front circa 1943! I jest of course. I hope you don't think I'm being argumentative, because I'm not. I'm responding here, for those who didn't follow the aforementioned discussion. elsewhere. The point of the photo was to show that YES, the paint has been worn off the sprocket teeth exposing the metal beneath and YES they and the tracks have oxidised fairly heavily during their inactivity. No doubt some of that oxidation on the tracks transferred to the sprocket teeth when the tank was driven about as well. Whatever, the colour of the (Highly?) oxidised metal is a slightly-reddish, dark brown, not reddish-orange, or orangey-red. Furthermore, the colour of both the tracks and the teeth is the same. Visit a steel plant and you'll find stockpiles of manganese steel ready for shipping and it will already be oxidised to a brownish/grey colour. In other words, it oxidises fairly quickly. The exposed metal then, gets progressively browner/reddish brown over time. It's important to realise that the oxidised layer, is, in itself, hard wearing, and so isn't readily worn away to expose fresh 'silver' metal, but is instead 'polished'.It glints and shines, reflecting light and can appear to be silver, when it's actually brownish-grey or reddish brown in the case of older tracks. Videos of the TigerI, StuG and Pz III in 'action' at Bovingdon are enough to convince me of this. Anyway, I apologies to you @FrancisGL for hijacking your thread, but I still think your StuG's tracks need repainting! Rearguards, Badder