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Badder

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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

  • Rank
    SCHOOL OF PAINT RUB BACK REPAINT RPT X 7 MODELMAKING
  • Birthday 03/28/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wiltshire
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Hi Robert, Thanks. I should probably keep on with the layering and get this worn whitewash looking right, but I fancied experimenting with a new formula for mud! I made up a mix of tea leaves (I kid you not) Woodland Scenics' Soft Flake Snow, some brick dust, neat PVA and neat No More Nails. I then mixed in some Dark Earth Weathering Powder before applying it to the Tiger with toothpick. It took a while for it to become sticky enough to stay where I put it, but it reached the right consistancy in the end. Mostly, I picked up a blob of 'mud' on the end of the toothpick and then scraped it off under the side skirts, and sponsons (rather like scraping a muddy boot on a..... er... boot scraper. The mud on flat featureless surfaces was applied when it was more sticky, using the flat of a knife to spread it on like.... er... butter. I will let the stuff dry and see how well it stands up to a bit of rough treatment. If it's not set like concrete I will have to add more No More Nails to the mix. When the model is finished, and in a dio, I will 'drop' some mud onto the tracks: I'm liking the look of the mud packed up under the mud flaps: Freshly applied mud - there will be more here: The tracks will get a good splurge of mud as well, at some point. TFL Badder
  2. The Tiger got another AB with MIG (German Late Camo) Light Dunkelgelb. Knowing what was to come, I delayed adding some of the more fragile parts and assemblies. I will be treating them separately and will add them at the end. For this GB, the cooling fan cover will now be closed, but I will not fix it in place as I intend to make the fans in the future. Then I proceeded to apply a series of alternating washes using Daler Rowney White Acrylic Ink and Humbrol Dark Earth Weathering Powder, the idea being to build up many layers until I am happy with the effect. White Ink wash followed by Dark Earth wash: And after another pair of washes: The front and rear: The rear will be getting rather dirty, so the washes in this area are more about the white ink than the Dark Earth. The washes on the sides of the Tiger get a wiping/brushing back, both wet and dry, hopefully replicating wear from heavy muddy boots, bushes/scrub, rain, splashes, etc etc. I experimented with a more sandy wash for the mud above the exposed tracks. The effect was rather nice, but I decided to return it to the darker earth colour. The entire upper hull is dry-fitted and will remain so until after the GB has finished. That explains the gap between the side and frontal armour plate. Increasing the amount of streaking: Red Earth Acrylic Ink washes applied to the exhausts: More washes followed, with work also progressing onto the turret. To fit both exhaust shrouds, or just the one? Still haven't decided, but I did decide to increase the damage to both. I used round-nosed pliers to grab the bottoms of the shrouds and first applied heavy pressure to crush the plastic thinner. The pliers were then used to grab and twist the thinned plastic. Red Earth washes were applied with Dark Earth over the top. Dry brushing with Dunkelgelb and White ink added a nice effect. I have since damaged the RH shroud even further. More pics to follow. TFL Badder
  3. Thanks chaps. Here's a biggy, so I'll break it down into 4 or 5 and hopefully I won't get the dreaded 'deleting the lot' scenario I used to get with my old laptop! To the fans then. Those, or more specifically, the fan blades, were going to be the 'tough little nuggets' of this build. I did think about cheating somewhat, skimping on the accuracy front by having some serious damage done to the fans by an AP round. Unfortunately, the trouble with my car cost me around a week's work and I knew that the entire fan idea would have to be scrapped - at least for this GB. I fully intend to get the fans done in the future though. Here's as far as I got with the fans, prior to my car getting in the way: Above, a test fitting of the casing for the fans - the angle of slope is too steep here, but checking for width was the purpose of the test. And I moved on to making a test piece for the coolant pipe. Here, the assembly is upside down: I used plastic rod for the pipe, but the stuff isn't particularly good for bending 'cold'. It springs back a fair bit, and overcompensating for this sometimes leads to snappage. Using heat to soften and aid bending was not so easy either as multiple bends meant multiple heating and each time the bends tended to straighten out again. This rod is semi-thermoset plastic, it seems. Over-heating caused thinning or thickening of the rod, dependent on where the heating and bending took place. Whatever, it was easier to 'practice' with than the thick copper wire that would replace it. Also pictured are two fan hubs which I sanded and filed from the fluffy ends of 'Cotton Buds (Q-Tips ) I first dunked them in thin CA turning them into a plastic-like material. Ultimately, I never got to use them but the method is certainly worth remembering. MOVING ON..... With the 'fan project' abandoned, I returned to the engine itself, which was looking a bit scrappy by now. First, I decided to raise the levels of the exhaust heat shields, making the replacements from plastic straws. I've just realised that I should not waste these straws as they will become very rare and collectable items in the future! And seeing the state of things, I couldn't help but do some more improvements.... Those magnettos would have to go! To be replaced by these: The magnettos were simplified, but looked much better than the nasty plastic things I'd made. The magnettos were actually parts taken from butane cigarette lighters. I then went on to add some more wiring and piping, and ultimately, the oil dipstick tube. The following photos were not posted in chronological order and some components have been moved/altered re-painted. The engine has been cleaned up further (mostly with a soft brush, a bit of water and some blasting with the AB. With that done, I moved on to getting the Tiger painted and the weathering started..... More later, TFL Badder The dipstick tube: The engine then got a good clean-up with a soft brush and water and blasts with an AB and some re-painting where required. Here it is fixed in place. The engine cover will have details added to the underside. With the engine finished, I then moved on to painting and weathering of the Tiger exterior. Pics later TFL Badder
  4. Hi Chaps.... Well, my better half has just surprised me with a 'reconditioned' HP laptop (ProBook) courtesy of my IT brother - the pair of them colluded to get me back 'on the grid' because they know how much I LOVE BRITMODELLER!!!!! So, here I am and it is good to be back. Thanks to all for your words of support, encouragement and sympathy and it's nice to know that some of you missed me! Rest assured that work has continued on my Tiger, although my @@!!!@!! did take up a lot of my spare time - much more than I had anticipated - and did make a dent in my build time (more on that later) - The less said about my @@!!!@!! the better. It will be SORN for some considerable time and I am currently carless. Not a good situation to be in, what with my health and living in the sticks with no bus service to get to work. Still, things could be worse. Anyway, I can now post a bunch of 'catch-up' photos. Those will come later this evening as I am going to make use of the last of the natural light to get some bits and bobs painted first. See ya later, Rearguards, Badder
  5. It never rains, but it pours.... Not only will my car not start after changing the water pump, but my laptop went Kaput while I was 3 seconds away from winning a very important chess game. Needless to say that the Kaput turned into a 'Flying laptop hits the wall'. Whatever, I now have no access to my thread, or my reference photos, or internet. What I CAN do is take photos of my reference photos in this thread and use them as a guide for the fans/fan compartment. I will continue with the build, take pics and post them in one or two bulk postings prior to the close of this GB. Whether I get the Tiger done in time for the Gallery, is another matter.... but I do think I will manage it, just. Apologies, Badder. ps, I am typing this on my wife's laptop, but she's being a grumpy so and so, so that's it for now.
  6. I do love Tamiya's Easy Eight. A 'perfect' kit with no issues at all and so easy to build - unless one decides to apply additional armour glacis and turret cheek plates! You've done a fantastic job with the painting and weathering; lovely tonal/colour variation with the OD, realistic dust/grime/mud and streaks. Superb figure painting, 'nice' face, fantastic hands, uniform and a super-fantastic MG. Two minor things I'd fix: I'd definitely add a long wibbly-wobbly aerial or two, and I'd straighten the figure up as he's leaning backwards a bit. Other than that, it's pretty much a perfect Sherman, a perfect Figure and a smart complimentary base.. Rearguards Badder
  7. Thanks chaps, It's been a right PITA what with inaccessible bolts, bolts that strip and puzzling over why my engine wouldn't crank around to line the timing marks up before taking off the timing belt and removing the pump. Solved the crank problem this morning - I'd lifted the engine at the 'object' end by about 2 inches so I could get at some awkward bolts and that was putting strain on the crank, stopping it turning a complete rotation. So I dropped the engine back down and all was solved..... except that the crank marks didn't line up. Discovered that the engine fitter had used the crank pulley locating lug as the marker, not the 2 dots on the crank sprocket teeth! Anyway I spent most of today laying in puddles or head in engine with my back to the rain and finally got the old water pump out. It looks brand new (17 yrs old with only 40k on the clock and 10 of those I've done in 2 yrs) However it WAS definitely leaking so I guess it was leaking around spindle. New water pump will be fitted tomorrow and hopefully everything else will 'fall together like a Tamiya model'. One interesting point - when removing the timing belt, it's advised to lock the two cams with a plastic cam locking tool. Well, I made my own from guess what? Yes! FTINFBISS!!! Anyhoo, hopefully car will be all AOK and drivable by Friday (I'm expecting at least a bit of trouble getting some of the bolts back in!) Then I'll be back to the Tiger and those cooling fans. As I said at the start of this thread, I'm planning on having the fans smashed or part smashed, so that should make things easier and quicker! Then I can move onto the painting and fixing of the last few parts. It will be a tight squeeze, but I think I can do it in time for the gallery. Rearguards, Badder
  8. I'm afraid there won't be much in the way of progress for the next few days. My car is proving a bit of a pain to prep for the new water pump. I have to lift the engine - with nothing more than a small trolley jack and wooden blocks, and getting all of the bits and pieces removed prior to lifting was seriously hampered by some very, very, very tight, and barely accessible engine mounting bolts. The three 'suggested' upper bolts are impossible to undo, but I did FINALLY manage to get the two bottom bolts undone today - after around 6hrs of trying every trick in the book. It didn't help that I stripped one bolt, rounding off the head, almost entirely, and started to strip the other one as well. How was I to know that whilst every other bolt is metric, THOSE particular ones are imperial????? Yes, you guessed it, it's a Rover! Anyway, I got the 'okay-ish' bolt undone with the proper (borrowed) socket, but had to file and grind the damaged bolt back into a hexagon that accepted a 12mm socket (down from 1/2 inch socket) And guess what I used to file and grind the bolt head? Yep, my model-making tools, including mini diamond-dust files and a rotary tool (from hobbycraft) which until today has proven itself limited in uses. Anything larger just wouldn't have gotten into the cramped area. So, I still have a fair few things to disconnect until I can lift the engine, and I'm working out what those things are by inspection (I have no manual to follow) I suspect I'm going to have trouble with some of those bolts as well. Whatever, the replacing of the water pump and the timing belt should be two of the easiest jobs! I'm hoping to have the car done in maybe 3 or 4 days. Any progress with the Tiger will be done in the evenings. TFL Badder
  9. What with all of the aircraft in this GB, I thought it would be nice to see one of your wingy things Stix. Imagine my disappointment when I discovered that your 'Skybow Tiger' was not some rare American Fighter Bomber that I'd never heard of, but was just another Tiger TANK - and one that I've already seen in the Tiger GB! With that misconception out of the way, I do look forward to seeing your accompanying Typhoo Tea Clipper. I had no idea that these large sailing ships took part in the Normandy Landings, but we live and learn! Oh, your Tiger is stunningly wonderful, BTW. Love that damage, and once again your mud is sublime! Rearguards, Badder
  10. Hi Dave, I love the camo pattern you came up with. I still haven't tried ANY 3-colour scheme, but I'd be well happy with one as good as yours. I'm not too sure about the Seafoam foliage TBH, I think it's great for making actual trees and shrubs, but only after it's been given a spray with dilute PVA and a sprinkle with herbs. Obviously, you're depicting an 'wintry' scene, so I'd suggest sticking a few 'orange brown' leaves on your Seafoam - late autumn leaves that haven't yet fallen off. I think that would break up the 'unformity' of the Seafoam's structure and improve the look (and also add to the camo-effect) Having said that, what you've done ISN'T bad at all. I'm just being pernickety! Rearguards, Badder
  11. What with the extraordinary heat today, I thought 'what better time to give the moss some green ink?' I could have airbrushed it on. I could have made an ink bath and dunked the moss in it. But I thought I'd further test its durability by dabbing the ink on with a large brush! There's still some mud attached to the bases of the mosses, so some mud got spread around, but this will wash off. Other than that, all of the mosses survived, with no crumbling, flling apart, or losing 'fronds'. Gelatine is definitely the way to go! First, some 'dunno what to call them' mosses: The 'dunno what to call them' mosses plus a load of 'conifer-type' bushes; I tried to keep some variation in colour density: And a few 'star' mosses in amongst them: The mosses look awfully bright in sunlight so I will have to tone some of them down a bit with a darker green, TFL Badder
  12. To the cooling fans then: The casing for the fans was made from a very thin layer of rectangular black plasitcard glued to a slightly narrower rectangle of thicker guage white plasticard. The overlap is along the top edge and this was bent over to form a slight angle in the casing (away from the viewer) Using a pair of compasses fitted wih a blade, I marked out the annular rings which surround each fan. These rings will be reinforced with a 'figure of 8' type arrangement. The central discs were removed with a rubbish rotary tool from Hobbycraft. Really, don't buy one! If you use the drill bits provided, you are more likely to gouge out an 8mm diameter ring in your plastic than you are to drill a small neat hole (yes, the chuck is that far out of line with the motor shaft! Anyway, I cut through the thicker plasticard with the grindstone because my 'compass cutter' isn't sturdy enough to retain the correct diamater as it cuts down through thicker plastic. The casing was then filed to fit widthwise, but has not yet been trimmed on the other axis, so the casing does not yet sit at the correct angle. With regards to my 'messy' model-making, yep, a lot of base colour has worn off during repeated handling of the model, and there's lots of plastic dust everywhere, but that's how I like it when doing worn winter camo...... Obviously the tank would be a lot neater and cleaner if I were going to do a 'new' or 'summer' tank. I think I'll go for the 'figure of 8' fan surrounds next. TFL Badder
  13. Thanks Clive. It's all down hill now. Read that however you like! Rearguards Badder
  14. That reminds me, I must watch Star Trek 'The trouble with Tribbles' again.......
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