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Badder

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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

  • Rank
    SCHOOL OF PAINT RUB BACK REPAINT RPT X 7 MODELMAKING
  • Birthday 03/28/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    wiltshire
  • Interests
    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Hi David, You've done a great job with this beast. It does look to be an excellent kit. I do like the finishes you've achieved everywhere, including the canvas tarp, but regarding that, I think the modelling of the tarp is probably the weakest part of the model. (Just to clarify, that's the manufacturer's doing) Personally, I'd have replaced it with a real fabric with better straps/buckles and creases. Still, it's a lot better than most tarps and I'd certainly use the kit's one if I messed up the replacement!! Rearguards, Badder
  2. Hi Darryl, I'm not sure if you're referring to my Tiger WIP, but if you are, thanks. I showed my method after watching lots of videos where the modellers made their assembly an unecessarily long, complicated, and tedious process, hoping that people might find it helpful. Rearguards, Badder
  3. There are several great properties of FTINFBISS, and one of them is that it takes impressions well. I don't mean impressions made by the likes of Mike Yarwood, (showing my age) but those made by scribers, pencils or in the case below, ballpoint pens.... This is only the first roughing out of the stonework. with the wall dry-fitted to check for the alignment of the corner stones: The next step was to create a bit of variation between individual stones by dimpling some with the pen nib, and pushing entire stones 'inwards' with applied pressure from the blunt ended scalpel handle. The dimpled stones appear black (from the pen ink) whilst the pressed stones appear white. (due to removal of the brown ink) Whilst the stonework pattern does look a bit slapdash, it will be improved with further treatments. Another property of FTINFBISS is that whilst it is stiff it is possible to cut the board using heavy-duty scissors, scribe a line part-way through it and bend it back on itself to snap it along the line, or cut through it with a sharp blade...... And the stuff will readily accept CA, which I used to attach the coffee stirrers. The stirrers just happen to be the right width to match the lintels and sills of the windows. I've fitted the inner wall to the back of the outer wall, using doubled-up coffee stirrers as spacers between the two. Here's the complete wall dry-fitted: TFL Badder
  4. Hi Clive, Looking good. 'Too much paint in the AB cup'. Errrr...... had to laugh at that. I always use an eye-dropper/pipette to put my 'paint' in, and never put more in than I'm going to need. It's always better to to add more if you run out than it is to add too much and have to pour the excess out. The temptation is to leave it in the cup and that will cause clogging problems if left too long. Rearguards Badder
  5. Hi Darryl, Nothing wrong with experimenting with new products and techniques during a build. I do it all of the time. Your dust wash may have looked a bit OTT at first, but after further treatments that was always going to get toned down. I would have rubbed the dust back a bit with a stiff brush, leaving the dust in the nook and crannies and incidentally creating a slight sheen on the 'clean' paintwork, which I always think is a nice effect. Whatever, your Cromwell has ended up looking fantastic . Tamiya aren't the only ones to suffer track problems. Nowadays I always use Friuls, but when I did use the kits' rubber bands I always played on the safe side and prepared for snappages. So I never glued the tracks to the wheels until the very end of the build. Any snappages that occured prior to this were hidden behind fenders, or were positioned under the roadwheels so that the joins could be hidden by sinking the vehicle into mud/grass. Apart from all of that, it's always great to see modulation that actually shows up through the following coats. Great job on both. Rearguards, Badder
  6. Just imagine living in a wooden framed house with wattle and daub walls and nothing for lighting and heating and cooking but candles and wood/coal burning fires and stoves. What were these people thinking? It would take just one careless - let's say London baker - to burn down most of his city.
  7. Not much in the way of progress. but I've cut out another piece of FTINFBISS to size and have marked out the courses of stone. Defining the stones at the corner will be the easiest. The horizontal lines continue across the FTINFBISS but obiously do not relate to the courses of the adjoining section of wall. There, the marked lines will have to be adjusted so that they do. A less rustic building, with properly defined courses would present much more of a problem in this regard. Here is the new section of FTINFBISS rested in place. The other section of FTINFBISS will now become the inner wall. As is always the case, the joint between the FTINFBISS and the plaster wall will be improved by countersinking and overlapping thin, plasticard stones across it. TFL Badder
  8. Hi Dan, Incredible work with the uniform decals. Whilst some may ask 'is it worth the effort?' I have to say that it most definitely is. The fabric texturing would be impossible to replicate using a brush. Rearguards, Badder
  9. Hi Clive, Looking good. Love the seat. Just a thought on the render.... if you give that a bit of a sanding that will take off the high spots and reveal clean white again. Sand it several times, applying slightly different grey washes in between each sanding and you should get a nice effect. Rearguards, Badder
  10. Hi Clive, Don't worry about doing things a different/unusual way. It's called experimentation and sometimes what you end up with is better for it! There are many ways to create a 'thing' and so long as it looks like what it's supposed to look like by the finish, it's a job well done. That's how we learn and develop and improve isn't it? I'm sure your wall will end up looking just how you want it to. Rearguards, Badder
  11. Hi Clive, I can see what you're planning to do wall-wise. One question though, why didn't you choose to make the entire wall from plaster or Paris? It's simple to pour into a rectangular mould, quick to dry, easy to carve and cheaper than using multiple and relatively expensive materials like Miliput. At the very least, you could have rendered your wall with plaster of Pairs instead of that Galleria stuff. You could have chipped the dried plaster off for real. Still, each to their own, but I'm absolutely sure it'll look just as good as a plaster wall. Rearguards, Badder
  12. Again, great stuff Mustang! I do question a car mechanic having a car magazine and a family photo on a laptop though..... something more 'feminine' would be my expectation! As is usual with your 'class' of diorama builder, I am left wondering as to how you make some of the details... such as the burger, chips, coke and packaging... or do you buy them as a kit? Rearguards, Badder
  13. Intending to continue with making more windows, I had deal with the matter of the side wall below: This side wall was a bit of a mish-mash, made up of a 'spare plaster' cast fitted onto the end of MiniArt's stump of a side wall. The cut down the corner shows the corner being made up of two adjoining plastic parts. The limit to which the 'stump' of side wall extends is roughly down the heavily scored line running parallel to the cut, but extended further along at the base. Here is a photo of this corner of the gable wall with the side plastic-and-plaster side wall removed. The hollow vacuformed frontage can clearly be seen, with the inner plaster wall fitted on the back: Whilst the join between this gable wall and the side wall was pretty good I was lazy at the outset and rather than thinking about the position of the windows I just fitted the 'spare' cast to the plastic wall stump. The windows then, are off centre, of different sizes and the upper floor window is too close to the top of the wall. In fact that window's lintel forms the top of the wall. These are not serious oversights by the architect, but it eventually bugged the hell out of him and so he's decided to scrap that wall and build a new one. And he decided to build the new one using FTINFBISS (Foamboard That Is Not Foamboard But Is Something Similar) So a rectangle of FTINFBISS was scribed from a 4ft x 3ft sheet of the stuff and was slotted into the corner so that the courses of stonework could be transfered across: The courses were transferred across using a scalpel but are highlighted with a biro (roughly) It is now a case of scribing a suitable stonework pattern on the new section of wall and deciding the position, shape and size of the windows. I'm thinking of making the upper floor window short in height, but elongated. Of course, this new wall will need an interior wall fitted as well. And then it will have to be fitted to the rest of the building, so the stonework pattern must fit both the gable wall and the other section of building. Then there's the side wall opposite this new wall to consider. I shall have to remake that as well. But the good thing about FTINFBISS, is that it's very easy and quick to work with. TFL Badder
  14. Hi add thanks Mustang, Your exuberance with the 'WOW's is most appreciated. When one has been working on a project on and mostly off over a few years it's easy to forget how others may view it! Comments like yours spur me on to get the diorama moving on again. So, I hope to get those two rear windows made and fitted over the next couple of days. Rearguards, Badder
  15. Hi Simon, Ah. Okay. It's just in earlier photos it looked grey, proper pale grey, and in middle photos it looked almost black (on my laptop anyway) Now it's gone grey again, so I wondered if the washes you mentioned were grey. Still, not as confusing as my winter camo Tiger 1 which looked sand coloured in some light and in some photos even when it looked white to the naked eye when the photos were taken Rearguards, Badder
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