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Badder last won the day on October 7 2018

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

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  • Birthday 03/28/1965

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    Artist writer model-making model-destroying

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  1. Ditto to the flashing grey box, which also happens with images in members' ''signatures''..... and ditto to @Alan P's post. A
  2. Hi Andy, That Tiger has the air pipes fixed across the engine cover, yet the filtration units on the back plate are missing. The 'unit marking' is where one of those units should be and I'm wondering if the 'marking' is actually the mount for the missing filtration unit? IF it IS a mark, it appears to me to be a cross in a box, but as you say, it's very vague and difficult to tell. Reargaurds, Badder
  3. I don't now which unit it was but their motto was 'We who are not afraid to poke at our rectums in front of the camera.' Meanwhile: The exhaust mufflers have been given the old Poly-treatment for rust effects. And I've shown the cooling fan covers for the Early and Late Tigers, showing the differences in the grill pattern. TFL Badder
  4. Hi Glynn, Rather than rely on the hull being straightened further by gluing it to the upper hull, I'd brace the hull more by gluing/fixing 'girders' across it, and if needs be, along it. I would even consider metal brackets being used - they won't be seen. I'm really looking forward to your ambush camo btw. Rearguards, Badder
  5. In the photo above, the Tiger's LH air filters and exhaust pipe covers have been punctured - either by small arms fire or shrapnel. The turret also has damage above the painted black cross - again either from small arms fire or shrapnel. Meanwhile, one of the side skirts and the mud guard's hinged flap on the LH have been ripped off. I will attempt to replicate all of this damage on my Tiger. TFL Badder
  6. The photo below shows how the turret had to be turned in order that the engine cover be opened. However, THIS Tiger had no spare tracks hanging on the turret, so it could be turned to the left or right. Robert's link shows and explains how the addition of the rear storage bin and spare track holders on the turret restricted the options for opening the hatch even further, eventually meaning that the turret had to be swung to the right at a very specific angle and a track link removed in order to open the hatch. Nice design! Like Robert, I won't post the diagrams/photos in the link he provided - there is a 'double-layer' of copyright issues! But anyone wishing to see the issues with opening the hatch should have a look. Here's my incorrect Tiger turret as it stands at the moment (The deck is dry-fitted) As described in the link, the hinge of the escape hatch and the spare links on the turret fouled the engine cover in real life. I assumed that Tamiya had positioned the spare links incorrectly and I mistakenly moved them in order to allow the opening of the hatch. You can see that I filled the original locating holes for the links. Now I will have to move the links back again! But I don't fancy dealing with all that this evening. Instead I'm going to start on the exhaust and air filter system. TFL Badder
  7. Hi Stix, I've just woken up and am feeling much refreshed thanks, so I will be posting some stuff - if not doing much in the way of model-making. I haven't as yet read Robert's link, but it seems that Tamiya were correct and the spare links did in fact foul the engine cover! So, the two spare tracks will have to be moved back to their original position (and I shall remove one as per the Tiger crews' 'Engine Cover Opening Procedure') Luckily (and obviously) the links are CA'd on so removal won't be an issue. The link 'retaining' brackets might prove an issue though. These links have been pulled off more times than a..... um. Rearguards Badder I know, I know. I really whish I had a precisely perforated piece of polyurethane produced for the purpose of protecting projects from paint. Rearguards, Badder Aaaaaaargh! I knew about the 'having to turn the turret' but the 'having to remove a spare link' is a new one on me! But thank you so much. I will now move my links yet again! Rearguards Badder
  8. Thanks Stix, I do aim to provide something useful if I can. Everything was progressing nicely until I put the kit's spare tracks on the turret instead of the Friuls.... and then when I put the Friuls on I put the line of 5 on a tiny bit on a slant and not spaced as I'd have liked (i'd filled the locating holes up and sanded them down and so fixing the track links precisely wasn't so easy) Anyway I removed the 5 Friu;s and haven't as yet re-fixed them. And then I discovered that although the 2 spares on the other side were placed perfectly, they had to come off as well! It turns out that Tamiya would have you fix them too close to the storage bins and when the turret is turned to allow the lifting of the engine cover, either the bin or the spare tracks foul the cover and prevent it from opening. I'm a bit exhausted today so I will probably fall asleep shortly. (I won't know that I have until I wake up!) I doubt there'll be much in the way of progress today. Rearguards Badder
  9. The wheels on either side of the tank line up, but on one side the arms swing forward, and on the other, backwards. Apparently this makes for a smoother ride. But the main reason for the arms being set up this way is so that there's enough room to fit each arm's torsion bars in the belly of the tank.... like so: If you wanted the left and right hand sets of wheels and arms to be a mirror of each other, you'd have to fit the torsion bars for opposing wheels in the same place - which isn't possible. You could (more than) halve the length of the torsion bars to fit them both in, but that would more than halve the effectiveness of the torsion bars and require more than a doubling up in the strength of the components (I think) Great progress Steve, neat and tidy and a lovely finish. Rearguards, Badder
  10. Hi Yetifan.... sorry I've forgotten your name! Looking at the ejector pin marks, they are indented rather than raised. Personally, and as you said, I'd leave all those on the return track length (top tracks) as they are, but also the smallest pin marks deeper down in those recesses which will be covered up by the adjoining links. As for those pin marks which WILL be visible, personally, I'd construct the bottom run of tracks and fill the dents with smears of putty. Then get a lollipop stick or similar, wrap some emery cloth/fine sandpaper around it and using the long edge sand them all down. Hope that helps. Rearguards, Badder
  11. THE TURRET I'm going to open up the commander's and gunner's hatches, but I'm also thinking of opening up one or both of the hatches in the rear storage bin. If I do do that (do, do, do, dah, dah, dah) I may use the hatches from my old Tiger. Until I'd decided one way or the other I was happy to stick the bin in place..... SPOT THE 'OVERSIGHT': Yes, silly me. Why use the kit's inferior spare track links when I have Friuls? So, off came the spare tracks! And on went the Friuls. And that's when I hit my first problem. Not a major one, but a problem none the less. I'm currently sorting that problem out, but I shall leave you all in suspense as to what that problem is until tomorrow. TFL Badder
  12. As promised, the wheels changed colour, significantly - but first I painted the tyres using the old 'mount the wheel on a toothpick, place a loaded brush against the rim and twizzle the wheel around, letting capillary action do the rest of the work' method: For those wheels with no handy hole in for impaling with a toothpick, a toothpick was used in conjunction with a blob of Blu-Tac. I then went a bit mad and gave all of the wheels and the lower hull washes with watered-down Burnt Umber. The wheels were then rubbed back a bit and were then given a less dilute wash with Burnt Umber. The result is WAY TOO ORANGEY-YELLOW, but I'll be rubbing them back and re-applying a whitewash. But I went ahead and stuck them in place anyway. Again, note the slightly raised wheel 3rd from left: Once the tracks are on, only the outermost wheels/tyres will be seen really, so the innermost wheels/tyres didn't need precision painting. And under a different light, not as bad as above: And then I went even madder and decided to add the tracks, but not before applying a buff wash to the lower hull. FITTING THE TRACKS First a test fitting - threading the tracks around the wheels and using the drive sprocket to help hold the 'join' together, like so: As it turned out there was too much slack in the track length, so I removed a link. Remember, I said that I usually leave 1mm or so of pin wire sticking out of each link for such times as might want to remove a pin, BUT I don't leave any pin sticking out for those links which can be seen in their entirety, like here at the drive sprocket and those at the idlers. So, here it was a case of having to bend the 'first' (innermost) pin guide right back on itself to expose the pin inside, then grasp the pin with pliers and pull it out. The removed link: FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NEVER ASSEMBLED FRIULS (OR SIMILAR) BEFORE: IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT A LINK AT ONE END OF A TRACK LENGTH IS MUCH EASIER TO REMOVE THAN THE LINK AT THE OTHER END. IF YOU LAY THE TRACK-LENGTH OUT FLAT WITH THE GUIDE HORNS POINTING UP, THEN THE EASIEST LINK TO REMOVE IS THE ONE WHICH HAS ITS WIDEST PART (THE BIT WITH THE LATERAL 'TREAD' ON IT) UNPINNED AND HANGING FREE. THE TRACK LINK AT THE OPPOSITE END HAS ITS 'WIDEST PART' PINNED ALREADY, AND THE NARROWEST PART OF THE LINK IS HANGING FREE. IN THE PHOTO ABOVE, YOU CAN SEE THAT I COULD, IF I WISHED, BEND THE PIN GUIDE STRAIGHT AGAIN AND RE-USE THE TRACK LINK. IF I'D TRIED TO REMOVE THE LAST LINK ON THE OTHER END OF THE TRACKS IT WOULD HAVE MEANT HAVING TO CUT THE LINK OFF WITHOUT DAMAGING THE NEXT LINK - NOT SO EASY OF COURSE, YOU COULD LEAVE 1MM OF PIN STICKING OUT OF EVERY TRACK LINK SO AT ANY STAGE OF ASSEMBLY, AND FOR WHATEVER REASON, THE REMOVAL OF A LINK AT EITHER END IS EQUALLY EASY. ANYWAY.......WHERE WAS I? AH, YES... This was where I intended to pin the two ends of the track-length together - the sprocket helping to hold the end links in place and nicely lined up - so I stuck a bit of pin wire ONLY JUST into one of them: And, offering the other end of the tracks back up to the sprocket again, used flat nosed pliers to make the join. I test fitted the other set of tracks in exactly the same way, but they and they fitted perfectly - the slightly raised wheel on that side taking up the slack. So I joined the tracks. With that done, I then started constructing the turret. More on that later. TFL Badder
  13. Thanks chaps! I went to work this morning, was there 15 mins and someone said 'What are you doing here?' Turns out I had a day's holiday in lieu of a bank-holiday I worked and I'd forgotten. Not the first time I've ever done that, and not the eighth time either! So I've had a whole morning to get things even further along. As predicted, the wheels have changed colour significantly, and they will do again. But I've also made the turret up, barring a few bits. I think I'll be putting a base coat on the entire thing shortly. Glynn, just call it what it is. 'A polypropylene stencil, with a series of increasingly large circles which can be used either to draw circles, or use as masks for airbrushing such things as model tank tyres or Polka dots on dresses'. Rearguards, Badder
  14. I only just made the deadline - with 5 mins to go! I have a KT in the stash - originally intended for this GB. I keep seeing other people's KTs here and think I should have stuck with mine as I've never built one before. Oh well. Rearguards, Badder
  15. Hi John, That's not a scale I would ever venture into, but it certainly looks more enticing than 1/72nd. I like that you have options to build a early, mid or late, am impressed by the fine detailing on the upper deck, and I really like the fact that the tracks and outer wheels are moulded in one part, and the inner wheels are separate. Top marks to the kit pattern-maker/designer! Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out. Rearguards, Badder
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