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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    Boss Man

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    Aberdeenshire, UK

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  1. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Colourset improvements

    We've been getting some useful feedback that whilst customers generally know what the schemes they're planning to use look like, the vast majority (the silent majority?) don't know what the correct terminology is and usually don't know the proper names of the paint colours used. As such, our written format names are missing the mark for most potential customers. As a result, we're investing some time (we have no budget to pay people to do this) drawing illustrations and designing more graphic labelling for our sets. Hopefully these are a little bit more visually appealing and crucially help customers both at model shows and online simply identify the scheme they want to model and have confidence they're getting the right colours to do it. It's when you start an exercise like this that you realise how many drawings are actually required! Gulp! We hope you like them
  2. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Grey and teak shade gradation on battleships

    For Richelieu when I say "no information", what I mean is that I have nothing meaningful. The ship was painted in what most describe as "medium grey" in 1941. I cannot vouch for the qualifications of those citing that nor what "medium grey" means to them. Generally a medium grey would be approximately in the range of 20~30% Light Reflectance Value but there is a difference which even aging men (statistically the poorest at colour perception) would generally notice between the darkest and lightest end of that. Perhaps not the end of the world for one model on a shelf on its own, but I am not comfortable using such woolly information to place the Richelieu in a graduated list of tones. In addition, there is no information that I recall seeing which has anything to say on the subject of the hue of said medium grey.
  3. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Grey and teak shade gradation on battleships

  4. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Gee-Dee Models is closing

    Most likely the reason there was no buyer though is because it's obvious to everyone that nowadays running a high-street model shop is a great way to work 60-70hr weeks and get fairly un-wealthy at it. A job in McDonalds is a better financial bet, with absolutely no sarcasm whatsoever.
  5. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Gee-Dee Models is closing

    That's rather going to be the point. It's not going to be a difference of 50p. There do exist even within the UK some businesses selling, e.g. Eduard kits which are supposed to retail at close to £40 for about £2 above trade price. Even distance sellers trying to make a *sustainable* business that can stand on its own feet and pay the required insurances, be VAT registered and be registered as a business for council tax can't compete with that and it really is a race to the bottom trying to compete because those businesses are going nowhere anyway - it's just a matter of time until they go under. Turnover is vanity, profit is sanity. And that's not greed, just a reasonable return which makes gives running the business any sort of purpose at all. Selling stuff on for the same as you paid for it isn't clever and it doesn't buy customer loyalty. Rather such a business has made a rod for its own back and potential customers expect to buy stuff for as near as dammit wholesale price and if they can't they'll go elsewhere. Nobody with a brick and mortar shop to pay rates on and keep staffed Monday to Saturday can afford to be selling stuff on a 18% gross and thus back to my first statement - the difference between a physical high street shop price and the bottom of the distance sellers on a 1/48 aeroplane kit isn't going to be 50p - there are plenty examples of it being more like £15. Even the majority of internet sellers are wondering how the hell to operate with some people setting customet expectations so unrealistically low.
  6. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Questions about those 1/700 Atlantic Models RN destroyers

    Hi Gavin, I would recommend you try the 0.25mm thickness and either 30 or 40mm length. The length is the length of exposed needle beyond the handle part. Over 40 can feel a bit unwieldy and short needles can be a bit too stiff to drag along joins. I like the 0.25 x 40 best but the Infini guy likes 0.25 x 30 best. Best regards, Jamie
  7. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Lysander - Eduard 1/48

    Do you ever wonder, Ced, if other people ever try using their own products before they hit the market?
  8. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    ML196 Fairmile B - Landing Craft Control

    507C does often look quite light in B&W for some reason. One thing to note - B15 didn't exist before Admiralty Fleet Order 2106/43 which was published in May of 1943. Thus anything in 1942 had to be in Pattern 507A or 507C grey, Pattern 537 white, Western Approaches Light Blue, Western Approaches Light Green, MS1, MS2, MS3, MS4, MS4A, B5, B6 or Mountbatten Pink. Any use of G5, G10, B15, G20, B30, G45 or B55 must post date May 1943 because only a select few working on the reclassification onshore had even heard those names before the AFO came out. Let me check CAFO679/42 Camouflage of Small Ships at Sea and see what small vessel designs are in there - I've paid little heed below destroyers, frigates and sloops before.
  9. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Questions about those 1/700 Atlantic Models RN destroyers

    They are just the perfect thickness for getting in to joints and stiff enough to apply a dot whilst flexible enough to drag along a longer joint. They're brilliant. The handle is enough to pick it up with fingernails but not so bulky it gets in the way. It was Park SangHyun of Infini Model who told me about them when I asked how he assembled the instruction sheet models without visible glue joins
  10. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Lysander - Eduard 1/48

    Hi Ced, The Chinese tins occassionally do that - I find that the best way to avoid it is to wipe the rim and lid with a paper towel (my brush wiping paper towel) and it usually stops it. Due to a supply issue (i.e. a minimum order quantity of 50,000 tins which I can't afford to float or have suitable space to store it) we have very recently changed to German tins which have a rubberised coating inside the tinlid. They cost us a bit more but we can buy them in 1,500s, not 50,000s. The rubbery stuff does improve the lid seal. They are the same tins as Revell use, FYI.
  11. You may perhaps have noticed that there's been a lot of debate recently about the colour of tank tracks, both the virgin metal and the oxide.  Stimulated mostly by me, I have to say, and I feel like something of a voice in the wilderness but people are beginning to catch on.  Using silvery shades, and more recently graphite, has just become the norm over time.  Everyone assumes that worn steel is silvery without looking at the actual color of the metal.  High manganese steel used by most countries for most all-metal tracks since the late 1930s is a solid goldy-brown colour and cannot possibly be silver or metallic grey.  Even WW1 tank tracks were a very dark brown metal, probably from face-hardening.


    None of the available products really captures the metal colours correctly: they are mostly shades of metallic brown, often with a goldy-yellow tint from the manganese content.  They certainly aren't the steel or graphite commonly used by modellers.  They also don't rust to conventional rusty shades, also because of the manganese.  All of the available track colors seem to be dark browns.


    There is a similar problem with armour plate, which is also generally a dark metallic brown and also not silvery or graphite-y.  A primer colour for this would IMHO be really useful, as would something for chipping and wear.  Current "chipping colours" are mostly just dark brown, and pencils are just graphite.


    I've contacted a number of "big name" (no disrespect intended) paint companies but none are interested.  So much for Real Colours (most of which are off)!  Is this something that you might be interested in taking forward?

    1. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

      Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies



      I will think on this to see if I can think of a way to do it. There are a few facets to this and desired behaviours.


      Interesting problem though, and I will give it some attention and try some experiments.

    2. Das Abteilung

      Das Abteilung

      I have a load of photos I've taken that illustrate my point(s), which I can send you.  But the metallic shade is hard to capture and flash or light glare can be deceptive.  I have one where something I know is gold-brown looks silver and something I know to be silvery looks black!  Period B/W photos are of course useless.


      A trip round Bovington would be extremely informative.  I'm sure that you would also be able to request access to the Conservation Centre reserve collection, as a product manufacturer.  It would be good if we could meet up there together so that I could point things out.  I'm currently in Bristol but am hoping to be in living Weymouth from November.  People say not to trust museum exhibits.  True to a certain extent, especially the environment for corrosion development.  But the virgin metal colour doesn't change.

  12. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    ML196 Fairmile B - Landing Craft Control

    Hi Rob, That's hard to say as you know. With only 5% between them the tonal analysis of pictures will be inconclusive. What I will say though is that *usually* the blue looks slightly lighter on panchromatic film than a grey of equal LRV looks. Not by enough to measure conclusively on photos without much to calibrate from, but a subjective impression. The photo there you've posted strikes me as being a rather dark colour. Subjectively, it "feels" like G10. What might be worth knowing though is what you reckon the light paint beside it is. I can find out the actual contrast between them as recorded on film tonight. All it can give though is the gap between them but that cannot be trusted beyond a certain point.
  13. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    ML196 Fairmile B - Landing Craft Control

    Not too much actually. Ultramarine is sensitive to acidity mainly. The original samples of B5 and B15 in Portsmouth and Kew are amongst the closest to their 1942 colour coordinates of all the paints. The greys have all darkened a bit. The B30 and B55 at Portsmouth have gone greenish withe the yellowing of binder etc. The B5 in particular at Kew though still gives an immediate impression of "Wow. That's very blue". At sea it would be toned down a little bit with salt spray and so on, but ultramarine isn't too bad for losing its colour in the grand scheme of things.
  14. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Mosquito FB6 333 sqd.

    If it's grey over Sky, then it will have been Extra Dark Sea Grey. The Extra Dark Sea Grey faded a bit though (I won't say "a lot "for fear of seeing heavily preshaded models in transluscent Medium Sea Grey ) but any application of liquids such as engine or hydraulic oil, grease, fuel, deicing fluids used stained it back dark again in that area.
  15. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

    Aberdeen Modellers Society Model Show, 15th Sept

    I've been collared to do either two photo etch demos, or one photo etch and one rigging demo. I have found a big SD card that fits the camera being used to magnify on screen so I'll record them and if not too embarrassing will put them on our underutilised Youtube channel...