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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies last won the day on March 28

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    Boss Man

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    Aberdeenshire, UK

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  1. Hi Craig, Information is pretty scant otherwise, but yes the Arado Works manufacture claim was in the same book. There are 2 sides of A4 and 3 photographs of the wreckage and a further aerial photograph of the crash site which you've probably seen before. There's a lot of scorching on the wreckage, but the rear fuselage is unburned and you can clearly see the demarcation line of the upper and lower paint terminating at the leading edge of the tailplane. Two photographs show an oblique view from front and behind of the port side of the fin which appears very dark with a light area of paint flaked off. No evidence of the swastika can be seen on either, but not having it seemed harder to justify than assuming the paint on the fin was scorched and peeled so I added it on mine anyway. The starboard wing was broken off near the root and is bent backwards and up, propped against masonry and shows the paint burned off most of the unsupported skins - the skin over the wing ribs and main spar is still there and dark, suggesting a fairly short-lived flash fire which removed the paint but not long enough to heat-soak the heavier structural members inside. The port wing is broken off outboard the engine. One photograph shows the outboard piece on a big lorry trailer to be removed from the crash site. It's sat leading edge down, with the fabric all burned off the aileron. The RLM65 paint is full intact but shows some dark sooty patches. The large balkenkreuz is intact and clearly visible, and outboard it, clearly visible, is the letter T in black. I figured that if the T was there underneath then I'd add the 1, H and F also. If someone has photos to prove me wrong, I'd genuinely be thrilled to see them because in years of hunting this is all I've ever found, apart from these: http://www.mcjazz.f2s.com/BlitzBlackFriday.htm Neither of these two images are exactly the same as those in the book, although the photo I mentioned of the tail from behind was taken from a similar angle, although the photographer has moved to the right by maybe 10 feet or thereabouts and it was taken at a similar time, possibly by the same photographer. Most of the people in the above have moved out of frame and some RAF airmen have moved in, the fire hose is still visible but the jet of water is coming from left of frame. The warden in the tin hat on the far right of the above photo is standing with his back to the photographer mid-span behind the right elevator looking down at the tailplane.
  2. Today I gave up on surfacing the top of the fuselage and instead and going for a flattest of flat matt strategy to reduce the ability to see my iffy work. I cut out the vacuum formed dome for the top of the fuselage and profiled it to fit nicely. The actual vacuum forming was very good and the master very accurate. All it really needed was profiled clean-up, really. I drew round it to make sure I didn't accidently move it when gluing: It was then cemented in place using Tamiya Extra Thin. At this point, I also decided that I wasn't going to sand smooth and rescribe a whole C-130 - I don't care quite enough for that, so instead I started reinstating sanded-off panel lines using heat stretched sprue. This will take some time, but less than the alternative. The new ones look very heavy, mostly because they're highly glossy under the Tamiya cement. They should look similar to the kit ones once it's had a gentle go over with a fairly fine Infini sanding sponge and a prime.
  3. We are now here. The seams of the little scoops need a bit of Mr Surfacer, but it doesn't look too shabby overall.
  4. Pontos wooden deck sets usually include a healthy supply of them as dry transfers, from which I keep the spares safely for my models which don't use Pontos decks. I've just sent Kim an order this morning for other Pontos stuff and he's asked a small favour of us, so between starting this post and writing this sentence I've asked him if he's willing to supply the dry transfers separately to me.
  5. Hi Craig, do you have a copy of that Luftwaffe Crash Archive Vol.1? That's where you'll find the photo of the wing underside wreckage showing the ID codes, as well as the upper/lower camouflage demarcation line on the fuselage. Good luck
  6. I can highly recommend the Master barrels for the F6F - especially for -3s with the open cooling jackets. The value in them compared to Albion tubing is perhaps less obvious on the later style associated with -5s which have solid cooling jackets.
  7. The single stage Merlin Mosquitos had a subtle yet unmistakable extended carburettor intake - the T.III seemed to have it as standard and indeed two of the recent airworthy rebuilds have these intakes (Bob Jens' B.35 excepted as it's a two-stage example). KA114 in the middle has the standard single stage Merlin carburettor intakes whereas TV959 at the back and PZ474 at the front both have the extended tropical types which (at least originally) contain(ed) the dust filters.
  8. A good way to straighten warped resin is also heat. Providing no metal is cast in (but usually such parts don't sag and warp) putting them in the microwave does the trick, or a dip in near boiling hot water.
  9. Resin can change its shape when exposed to high temperatures. If you leave it in a hot room in direct sunlight it may sag, which of course is also true for a plastic model if carelessly left somewhere the glass can give a magnifying effect. You'll read some utter drivel about resin kits, mostly by people too afraid to build one. A good quality resin kit is far nicer than a mediocre injection moulded kit. The only thing that's really different is that you need to use CA glue or, absolute worst case, some epoxy for very rare occasions rather than styrene cement. You'll read that breathing in resin dust is harmful which is true - but unless you enjoy clogging and destroying your abrasives anyway, all sanding is best done wet regardless of the medium used
  10. Steve whilst I find myself arriving at entirely the same conclusion as you do, the reason for the above is principally that judges (in UK, IPMS rules competition) are allowed to consider "sense of realism" but anything remotely technical is strictly off limits and instead judges can only judge the execution of what they see presented. If you like, the shake & bake Tamiya kit with the fewest modelling cock-ups like dodgy seams, gluey fingerprints and grainy paintwork will win. Adding detail is opportunity to add execution mistakes such as wonky bits of PE etc. If you can make a model with much more activity needed to finish it, and maintain the quality of the shake & bake, then you beat the shake & bake entrant. Judges can't get into whether something is representative or accurate because unlike, for instance, r/c class F4C which the static judging requires a dossier of supporting documentation, plastic model judges can't be expected to assess all the manner of curios that ends up on the table. You've probably heard endless tails from competitions about how "some idiot judge told me my Beauquito was inaccurate but then I told him my father was the pilot of this exact machine in 1944 and gave me a photograph showing it carrying Polaris ICBMs under each wing" - ad nauseum. This is precisely why judges don't consider accuracy. For all the reasons, I find myself disinterested in competitions. Really it boils down to who's got the most time to spend on a single model - not something I object to personally - but I've got entirely too many responsibilities and commitments to spend 4 hours a day on a model months on end to win the nationals. It would take me 10 years to get that many man-hours into a model and for it to have to be covered in spurious eye candy to win at that - I'm out.
  11. It doesn't matter if you distribute weight along the leading edges of the wings, in the nose, or on the end of a 6 foot long fishing rod gaffer taped to the nose - all weight in excess of that necessary to balance on the main wheels must be reacted by the nose wheel so the nose wheel gets no respite if the weight is added in the engine nacelles instead of the cockpit. What can be said though is that the greater the lever arm any weight added has from the main wheels, the (much) less weight you need of it to achieve balance. Adding weight to the engine nacelles instead of in the tip of the nose is about 1/5th as effective in a Canberra shaped aeroplane at offsetting the excess weight of the tail - so the main undercarriage has to carry 5 times as much weight in the engine nacelles for a balanced model as they'd have to carry if it was far forward in the nose. That's just physics.
  12. I'm not even sure it was a good idea - I just wanted to try it to see if it could be done!
  13. For what feels like the first time in my life, I found something JD! It's half six here just now and while I was standing in the kitchen a few minutes ago making coffee I was thinking what an unusually great time I had at Telford which is usually something I dread. I saw that Corsair at Yeovilton a number of years ago and was so pleased to see that the museum had the good sense not to try to improve it. I think you're doing a cracking job here and have been watching quitely for some time
  14. Thanks Ced. There's nothing major, but plenty little dabs of Mr Surfacer have been dotted on before work this morning, and there are a couple of contours to improve upon. The belly isn't as bad as I feared, yet not as good as possible. Some of the filled panel lines show signs of slight shrinkage of the filler manifested as ever-so-slight depressions, so I'm going to buff this coat right back and will repeat as necessary until it's good. I've got a whole bunch of this light grey paint from then WEM takeover days. It isn't what it claimed to be and I've no idea what it really is - possibly just a poor match for something - but it means I can afford to use almost a whole 14ml tin per priming coat as this one here gobbled up! By the way the crew access door is just held in place with latex canopy mask. The fit is a little clunky and I'd have sorted that if I was going to have the door shut permanently but I'll probably have it open in the end.
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