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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies last won the day on December 15 2021

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

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    Aberdeenshire, UK
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    Constructive feedback on my modelling is welcome

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  1. I love this model. I really do. I actually like the wooden base but if you did want it prettier it just needs a few passes through my thickness planer to remove the chain saw marks. I've built my dinghy from rough sawn boards though (since I needed loads of sizes and half the price of finished timber stock is paying someone to machine it) and really like the stage where it's half way between rough sawn and machine finished
  2. With respect I do think this is the sort of emotive interpretation and language that some people will jump to and I am unwaveringly convinced that in 99.9% of cases that was not how the message was intended nor how any dispassionate observer would interpret it. This is where the mythical beast "rivet counter" some people vilify and tell make-belief spook stories to one another comes from. It's vanishingly rare that anyone actually does that, but the mythical rivet-counter really is the monster hiding under the bed which some (mostly grown men) modellers are afraid of. It's not so much the model or the subject we're dealing with, but trying to decide on a case by case basis whether it's a positive move to offer a constructive observation for next time or whether there will be an irrationally negative reaction based in low self esteem or whatever. It doesn't even stay consistent from with one recipient as everyone has good days and not so good days. Still, if we sanitise feedback rules back to "Atta Boys" or nothing then what's really the point in all this?
  3. The good thing about quantified colour coordinates is that they don't have a shelf life. Once the coordinates are known they can be used at any time in the future
  4. Hi, no I didn't hear from them. Half an inch square would have been sufficient
  5. It's a filler primer. The lower the number on the can the coarser / more filler-y it is. Mr Surfacer 500 is spreadable or brushable rather than sprayable but it does fill scratches and things quite well. Mr Surfacer 1000 can be airbrushed with a little thinner. I'll warn that I've found it's not always the most robust of primers. I have used it as such, painted over it and later had the whole lot lift off under vinyl masks right down to the plastic. I still use it, but for surfacing only. By that I mean I'll brush or paint it on but polish back to a smooth plastic finish but with the scratches filled before starting with a priming coat, for which I just use my own paint but bespoke primers would be fine too.
  6. You're close but it's not really a quality issue (implying that it could be done better) and simply that different pigments have different opacities and most bright yellow pigments are quite weak. Like most highly saturated colours though there's not a lot a paint manufacturer can do about it. Too much pigment to binder causes poor adhesion and can lead to chalking of the surface. Also, I don't mind sharing that one of the yellow pigment colourants we use - Quinoline Yellow - is the single most expensive one we need costing us £135 per litre for a good quality commercial product, with quality for our purposes not meaning opacity per se but each 1 litre can I pour into the cannister on our dispensing machine being consistent in its opacity such that there is some repeatability in the pigment formulae. With lower saturation colours much of the user's perception of opacity comes from e.g. white pigment with complex colours often having more pigment by volume of paint than simple colours might have. We try to keep pigment content to a certain proportion compared to binder but we can achieve a paint colour that one involves one pigment with less pigment in total than one which needs 4 different pigments, partly because of the minimum dispenseble amount. If it only needs a dot of black but the smallest the machine can accurately dispense is a dab, then you need to set the formula around the dab and scale up the other pigments to keep the proportions right. Generally though, that will be mitigated by making batch sizes that allow us to keep pigment to binder ratios about the same for all colours. In summary then, the "best" brand of model paint yellow to work with is the one which has maximised the pigment content of the paint, but given the yellow pigment costs 7 times as much as e.g. carbon black does, few brands will add more of the stuff than is needed to pass the draw-down opacity check.
  7. I shy away from absolutes usually but I find this works pretty well for most of what I'm doing that's wide area coverage. For free hand camouflage painting I'll have the nozzle a finger's width from the surface but the basic principle is the same - keep the air flowing and the paint minimal, but it's not really a disciplined paint-two-three-paint-two-three thing then.
  8. I have to say this build makes no objective sense whatsoever, but I love what I see
  9. I get best results by keeping the air flowing for 2 or 3 passes but only flowing a small amount of paint on the first pass. After the "blow dry" passes I'll repeat. I never lay down a wet coat until I've got the coverage I want. Going slower really is faster. I consistently get good white and yellow coverage over a black base coat in a single session using this technique.
  10. Hi Dave, RM have been particularly opaque about this unfortunately. We don't use RM much any more but do still maintain a business account. Comms from RM? Zero. Actually there's a small group of small business owners who have each been asking the other if anyone else knows what is going on. I can't imagine Hannants or indeed any other business accounts have been kept informed. Naturally there's a reluctance to over-dramatise in case it's back up and running 10 minutes later. RM seems to have been trying to keep an especially low profile since most of the publicity they have had recently has been footage of RM's greasy CEO Simon Thompson being roasted by MPs over the abysmal performance of the organisation, rock bottom morale amongst the staff, and the curious change of the success criteria of his rather handsome annual bonus from a spectrum of KPIs of a healthy, profitable business to simply "deliver shareholder value" for last year which netted him an extra £140k. Word has it that RM's head of cyber security was out delivering mail the day the attack happened due to core staff shortages. All Thompson is concerned with is syphoning off as much cash as possible to dividend payouts so he can walk away more wealthy himself and the board has ratified the change in bonus criteria to encourage that behaviour. That is not a well-led company.
  11. I have this kit in front of me. The kit itself is really nice. The paint guide and colour call-outs are a horror story. The colour you actually need for "P" on the paint guide is RAF Dark Earth. It's essentially similar to BS381C-450 Dark Earth although it wasn't in BS381C and certainly wouldn't have been numbered -450 at the time the RAF used it.
  12. The Pontos owner is a Facebook friend of mine and he tends to share updates of what he's working on every few days or so. The Hood stuff is still in 3D Modelling stages but it's not starting from nothing as he already sank a huge load of time making the head and shoulders best detail and correction set for the 1/200 scale kit. It's obviously not just a simple click to rescale but a large proportion of the time on these ventures and hence the cost is the reference material and research. That tbh is why some sets are expensive and some are cheap. The cheap ones usually just tart up the kit with eye candy regardless whether it's right or wrong and/or just copy the work of someone better who actually did the leg work. The biggest fault in the Trumpeter kit is the 15" turrets actually which aren't good. Micromaster makes much better ones which come with 3D printed barrels which even though not brass are still much better than Trumpeter's effort. It's always good fun spending other peoples' money but once you see Micromaster's boats and compare those to the Trumpeter ones and tbh the Mk.III* HACS and 4" HA twin mounts you'll be sending a lot of money to Simon in New Zealand and needing much less on the brass front. There are the occasional clowns who claim using 3D printed stuff is cheating, but I prefer to see it as using available tech to actually get these models built - since burning out on minute bits of PE on capital ship models is very common.
  13. Sorry I completely forgot about this. I've never made a specific model paint product for this stuff as the shade varies a bit today and we don't have any samples of contemporary Admiralty Pattern red lead. The general stuff still exists though in the boating world although the shade can vary. One issue even looking at old photos is that it's easily confused with red oxide of iron used widely at the same time, although the purposes were supposed to be different. Red lead can vary from an orange-red to something like a "post office" red. Something like this: ...although between you and me I wouldn't bet the farm it was definitely red lead and not red oxide of iron. (but I think it's lead)
  14. I used Flyhawk and WEM on mine since as above neither covered everything although tbh were I to do it again I'd forego Flyhawk and just get WEM which covers everything you'd want to do from Photo Etch metal. The stuff Flyhawk provides which WEM doesn't e.g. barrels and AA guns are better serviced by Micromaster 3D printed stuff now. Pontos Model is currently working on a set which will be comprehensive and will include masts which only Pontos and Infini Model sets tend to include (and brass masts are something you always want after you've had them once).
  15. Hi, I now think that port quarter around the 6" guns looked more like this now I've looked again.
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