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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies last won the day on July 29 2023

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    Aberdeenshire, UK
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    Constructive feedback on my modelling is welcome

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  1. On the face of it, there is logic in the reasoning given in the article. Drones have completely changed tactical reconnaissance in Ukraine.
  2. I think a better option to explore (as well as being a lot cheaper and lighter) would be to just mount it in an acrylic case. If you're not too ambitious with the sea state then cutting a U-Boat shape out of an acrylic sheet to fit around the boat supporting it vertically, you can then do all the acrylic medium stuff on top of it and hide any longitudinal joint quite effectively as well as fill in any imperfections where it meets the hull will all work quite well. To avoid complete transparency, you can tint the acrylic sides of what's effectively a fish tank with translucent bluish green. The beauty of this is that you can build it up slowly and try your boat in to see what visual effect you get. Just like an actual fish tank with water in it, you'll find that a solid resin casting isn't actually all that good for viewing the model inside - it's fine absolutely square on to the side of the piece but look at an angle and refraction does all sorts of weird things so you can't really admire your model as much as perhaps envisaged.
  3. Heat will be a huge issue (and let's not talk ourselves into minimalising it mentally - if it doesn't burst into flames it'll burn the resin and discolour it internally, and the 1/48 plastic U-boat will almost certainly melt), and from personal experience if you cast it in layers to manage the heat those layers will be visible in the finished item. You won't see them looking down from above but they'll be quite apparent from the sides unfortunately. On the plus side, applying acrylic medium and sculping waves on the surface after pouring and curing is fine.
  4. Funnily enough, my full-size sail making instructor also recommended Historic Ship Models from his own extensive personal collection as a really good piece of work showing how things work full-size too. There's just as much jargon and nuance in rigging as there is in hull construction and it can be difficult to find all the information you're looking for in a single book - e.g. a topping lift and lazy jacks can appear to serve the same purpose but not really, the former is to support a boom when a 4-sided sail is being raised or lowered and doesn't support the gaff itself, whilst the latter is really to control the sail itself and the gaff at the top from flapping around during the raising or lowering.
  5. I've got a lot of catching up to do after a difficult Q4 and January so far so I'm not sure to be honest. It's not a big seller, and that's perhaps why it's not well served by model paints. It's not hugely useful with fairly limited application outside of aircraft cockpits and in those cases many either aren't particularly fussy or dislike how the real colour looks in context and choose something far lighter they prefer the appearance of, both of which are reasons I can understand.
  6. Hi Jamie, how's the machine issues going? I see NARN22 is still showing out of stock. 

    1. Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

      Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

      Hi Andy, NARN22 went back on sale today. Thank you for your patience.

    2. andyelbac

      andyelbac

      Looking forward to delivery. Put my order in yesterday!

  7. Shame about the old Transall, but glad the crew are all unhurt.
  8. It's true about the Zvezda kit's windscreen, and I think the Zvezda kit is derived from the old KP kit. It's not that hard to change the windscreen though. I sanded the top of the framing off, polished it up, masked the panes to the correct shape then built up new framing with primer.
  9. That looks good to me to be honest. The starboard side is a bit bit of a mess but for the port side I feel this is quite credible. I do think the darkest colour is MS1.
  10. Would you mind recolouring the above using the following sRGB coordinates? MS3 - r121 g133 b131 MS4 - r146 g151 b146 I think we'd get a better feel for this that way.
  11. In keeping with the mark-up convention which @dickrd and @foeth were using when they introduced me to their works on HMS Prince of Wales originally which is marking up tones from darkest to lightest, I have avoided using "A" in this photograph saving that for what I am fairly sure is MS1. This is IWM A4170 showing close up and in very good quality the relative tones of the mid and lightest tones, which I've labelled as "B" and "C" respectively, in an environment with other things like sailors' uniforms. I simply can't see "C" as 507C. It's dull and drab, and I feel quite strongly that this is no lighter than MS4. There also appears to me to be a fourth shade "D", lighter than others, amidships on the hull on the starboard side.
  12. Hi Neil, I am thinking of adjusting the colour of NARN40 (B55) a bit this time but am finishing some other paints first. G10 is among this lot. I have the latest draw down sample beside me. I needs one more little tweak... Regarding the pendant numbers, there wasn't a single font. Atlantic Models and maybe Starling Models sell generic sets, but an alternative if your subject has a style different from the decals is to cut a set of vinyl masks to airbrush on your pendants. I've made a few sets for various modellers. It works quite well and you can get the colour exactly as you want it should it be other than black or white.
  13. It doesn't and never applied to water dispersible acrylics like Xtracrylix. It was Methyl ethyl ketoxime, abbreviated to MEKO, or alternatively Butanone Oxime which was used as an anti-skinning agent in oil bound alkyd resin type paints (commonly called enamels but not the same thing as enamel you find on your teeth or on camping mugs). This is now a banned substance at least in terms of sale to the general public. The reason Humbrol seemed to get caught out was that for whatever reason nobody at Hornby realised that what they were having manufactured by their subcontractor could be sold to the general public until after the restriction came into effect. https://echa.europa.eu/substance-information/-/substanceinfo/100.002.270 Pity though - it was pretty good stuff for what it was used for.
  14. Hi Casey, those ones were, yes. They were done a few years ago when the Nix was all we had at home. It's definitely not as accurate as a proper one but it's definitely got uses. I couldn't have carried a desktop around Portsmouth naval base for example The renders were sRGB. I suppose the key takeaway is that the Tamiya AS paint samples I was sent aren't/weren't especially good for any of the US Navy colours either aircraft or ship types.
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