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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies last won the day on December 15 2021

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About Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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    http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

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    Aberdeenshire, UK
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    https://www.facebook.com/Melitele16ftCutter

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  1. I have to admit to still being really confused. Do you want to paint them using vintage ideas of paints, or do you want to paint them correctly?
  2. Thanks Bill, I realise calipers aren't ideal for this but they're probably more accurate than my powersanding efforts! In all seriousness though, I would not object at all to an Imperial set - I am bilingual with measurements, having grown up with radio controlled models built to plans mostly drawn by older generations in Imperial sizes. With balsa and ply as well as hardware being sold in either or units depending on the whims of the manufacturer, one had to learn very quickly to hop between systems to make any progress! In the meantime, behold here a layout. The long shaft is still too short, but it shows more clearly how it's going to look. One of the cuts comes close to the removeable panel with the round window on the HC1, a feature not present at all on the BV234, so to improve my chances here I took the opportunity to glue in the heavily relief-detailed panel and window, sanded off the relief which stood proud of the fuselage skin then filled over it to take care of that which sits lower. No real need to be especially tidy at this point as there is much more butchery to come and surface work with it. I may even fill all the panel lines on this, as they are somewhat trench-like and that's not obvious on photographs of the BV234. Lap joints and domed rivets, yes, but big 1990s fashion panel lines not so much.
  3. That's rather nice, and the fact it's brush painted is something I'd never have guessed. Very nice work.
  4. That's lovely. The oil cooler is fantastic - as in "I didn't realise how cack my OOB oil cooler looked until now"
  5. I measured the shafts on the Adobe Illustrator scale diagram, and marked up the steel accordingly with tape, knowing that pen marks seem to vanish instantly that a cutting tool is brought on-scene. And the pieces are mocked up thus. I have made a mistake in ordering lengths 200mm long in my enthusiasm to get started, but the big green shaft is actually 247mm long so I've had to order a longer length. You can get the idea from this though. Where bearings and gears aren't on the shafts, that's because the shafts need more time in the gym. The tip of the pen shows where the electric motor goes. A "pen drive" if you will? I'll see myself out...
  6. One feature worth mentioning, and which I'm glad I thought about in advance is this pair of spur gears. The smaller 12 tooth gear has a 4mm (apparently) bore which should (haha) match the 4mm shaft on the 300rpm geared motor which is on its way from eBayland. It's going to drive a 3mm shaft though - the green one - and whilst 3mm gears are available and it's tempting to look at the tooth count, it's actually the tooth size and overall diameter which matters. A 16 tooth gear which has a diameter that gives me the speed reduction I need and teeth of suitable size to mesh properly with the 12 tooth 4mm gear has a 5mm bore. Fortunately, I didn't order a smaller 16 tooth 3mm gear which just wouldn't have fitted the gear on the motor, but I did get these little bronze bushes which push into the 5mm bore on the gear and make it 3mm instead. Or someone's idea of 3mm anyway. This is quite snug when pushed all together but I'll loctite it in due course anyway to prevent any foul-ups.
  7. I upgraded even from that, suspecting myself of lacking the patience. I have tested a piece of the steel rod with a power drill and a combination belt sander & grinding wheel bench tool. It seems to work although getting uniformity will be difficult. Now I know it basically works though, I will cut the pieces to length and work on the individually. The plastic bearings have some elasticity. The steel ball bearings are not very compliant though. The shafts will probably end up slightly cigar-shaped with the ends tapered more than the middle, but that's ok so long as everything fits on where it's supposed to.
  8. The delivery van driver has been. Woohoo! RS Components has been really fast. Unfortunately I've had to contact them. I'm pretty sure it's an accident so I'm not in any way annoyed or upset - I'd just like the bearing. One of the red and white packages for the ball bearings hasn't been heat sealed along the bottom and the bearing has gone walkies. It was all very well packaged otherwise and the wee bearing isn't in there so I'd imagine it fell out before the packaging staff even pulled a handfull of them out of the storage bin/box/whatever they use to fulfil the order. They hardly weigh anything so it would be an easy miss. Anyway, keen to try things, the first lesson is one of tolerance. The 3mm stainless steel rod I bought from eBay isn't. My calipers aren't the best quality and under-read by about 0.1mm so I think this is actually 1/8th inch diameter, not 3mm as advertised. I have an idea on that which I'll test later. It may involve power tools and abrasives... Meanwhile, the other components are not quite 3mm bore either, but in the other direction. That's maybe not the end of the world, as whilst the bearings and gears currently don't fit on the steel rod, if I can make them fit then a bit of an interference fit would be helpful actually. Reaming out plastic gears is easy. Reaming out the inner bore of a ball bearing not so much - so it's the shaft that needs to go on a diet.
  9. Hi, I did think of a belt which is common for tail rotor drives in RC helicopters, but I chickened out as belt length and tension becomes important and there's still the issue of the forward tilted rotor heads and the need to drive the forward rotormast which sits above the cockpit, so I'd still need that red idler shaft in there to get the power "upstairs" without encroaching into the cockpit which would be pretty noticeable I think Thank you! I hope I don't disappoint! Thanks! I am attracted to predictable solutions, and my hope is that this one looks more elaborate than it really is, because I'll put more effort into the external bodywork of this one than I did on the resin HH-3E on the assumption that this one is going to work Exactly, it's because without that red idler shaft the forward shaft would be between the pilots' seats. As for the shaft at the back, yes I believe we can - that's basically the "Option B" that I didn't think of until after I'd drawn the retrospectively named "Option A" I will need to relocate that ballbearing to aft of the gear though to pick up the thrust load on the shaft. I'll make a note to do that now actually... Thanks! As above, I hope I don't disappoint! Hi Bill, I'm not much into breaking new ground so I'm effectively copying the real one with the horizontal shaft. My only real "even better if" (mein gott, I sound very corporate - I wish my mortgage was paid off so I could get a proper job and stop playing BS Bingo for a living!) would be to have custom made bevel gears with the right pressure angles. My dad remembers the aft rotor mast being tilted 1.5 degrees forward compared to the datum line and the forward mast being tilted 5 degrees forward. Custom gears would allow me to have the shaft horizontal along the cabin roof and be able to put some seats inside like wot scale modellers are supposed to do. The best I can do with commercial gears is to tilt the horizontal shaft to minimise the angular difference between the not-horizontal shaft and the not-vertical shafts to the point the gears won't really notice.
  10. I'm just catching up on this. I do like the fact that your planking strakes do run fore and aft like there's supposed to without loads of drop planks and stealers like lots of wooden boat models end up with. Likewise the turning down of that mast looks nice and fair also. Good work. I would suggest (easy for me to say) to try not to get too downhearted about lack of engagement on a forum - much engagement is of little added value anyway and something like you're doing here is out of many folks' comfort zones so they will have less to add technically.
  11. Thank you Bill. I'll make an effort to maintain some sort of pace with this one. In the mean time, I've noticed another mistake. The large light green spur gear is too large to fit in the fuselage there. It's a reminder to think in 3D rather that 2D! The solution is to lower the green shaft in the fuselage so that spur gear doesn't extend above the cabin roof (as the gear is wider than the inside of the pylon). This effectively means the green shaft, motor and so on are the same in Option A and B. The only difference therefore is Option A has one extra shaft. There may be 2 spare ball bearings coming in the above order - which isn't the end of the world.
  12. Before committing to plastic, I'm trying paper print-outs of planned inserts to check how they fit and to convince myself that my planned cut lines make some sense!
  13. I've ordered the parts now, so there is a (hopefully short!) wait whilst they are posted to me. In the mean time, I plan to start designing the new fuselage sides and saddle tanks to modify the kit.
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