FritzNYC

Just in the interest of saving others time & confusion with Hasegawa kit #09179 (JT119). Based on the parts & marking options supplied this kit is an A-24 (USAAF equivalent of the SBD-3), NOT an A-24A (SBD-4 equivalent). The parts supplied in this kit are identical to the SBD-3 kit other than the small carrier tailwheel being swapped out for the larger land-based pneumatic tailwheel. With that being said it wouldn't be difficult to make it into an A-24A if you could supply the appropriate HS propeller from another source (such as the SBD-4 kit). I believe (and I could be wrong) that there are no other visible differences between the SBD-3/A-24 and the SBD-4/A-24A, the other differences being mainly internal.

Thanks for the info. So just to confirm: ANA 607 on the "anti-glare" area in front of the windscreen, not a flattened version of ANA 623, which I understand is slightly different color-wise. My paint of choice is Colourcoats and I have all of the ANA colors. I do plan on laying a satin clear coat down to tone down the glossiness a bit.

Getting ready to start on the old Tamiya 1/48 F4U-1D in Glossy Sea Blue (ANA 623) and had a couple questions regarding the paint finish: 1) Were these aircraft uniformly painted with the same color & sheen throughout? In other words ANA 623 all over, or were there any areas (such as in front of windshield or wing leading edges) either less glossy or painted with ANA 607 (non-specular sea blue). I know this occurred with other GSB aircraft, a good example being Helldivers but when I look at photos and/or finished models of GSB Corsairs it is not readily obvious. 2) I am using a scheme that has prominent white areas on the tail and wings, were those areas matte (non-specular white) or a glossy white to match the Blue? The specific markings are from the Hussar decal sheet 115 - FG-1D, VMF-213, USS Saidor, 1945 if that helps. Any help is greatly appreciated as always.

I think what I'll try to do is just mix up a batch of the "yellow-green" zinc chromate by starting with a 10:1:1 ratio of yzc, flat black, & aluminum. I read in another forum that (specific to these aircraft) this was applied to both the cockpit and the wheel wells. I have an old empty Model Master glass bottle so will avoid having to mix it up again the next time it's needed.

I do have the RAF cockpit green in hand, thanks for the help. Could it be that the "Zinc Chromate Green" is meant to represent the Curtiss mixture for the wheel wells? Maybe Jamie from Sovereign could chime in if he sees this.

Getting ready to start on the Airfix 1/48 P-40B/Tomahawk kit in Flying Tigers livery and had some questions about the shade(s) of interior green on these aircraft. I mainly use Colourcoats enamels and wondering what would be the closest match, my two contending options are ACUS09 US Interior Green ANA 611 and/or ACUS22 Zinc Chromate Green. Any advice on which of the below options are correct (or are the closest, I'm not that obsessive about it and really try to avoid having to mix paints to match it down to the micron). 1) Interior Green ANA 611 for the cockpit and Zinc Chromate Green for the wheel wells OR 2) Interior Green ANA 611 for both cockpit and wheel wells OR 3) Zinc Chromate Green for both cockpit and wheel wells https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/products/acus09-usn-usaaf-interior-green https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/products/acus22-zinc-chromate-green Any guidance is much appreciated.

After fighting it for a long time I am ready to jump into the wonderful world of airbrushing. I received an Iwata Revolution CR .5mm for Christmas (thanks Santa) which I am planning on using as my general purpose airbrush (and might convert to .3mm when I get some experience under my belt). Thanks to my OCD (and having yet to fire my Revolution in anger) I am already shopping for a detail brush with a .2mm, e.g. Procon Boy PS-267, PS-270, Tamiya HG III SF, or Grex XGI2-ES which you can get here in the states for a reasonable price all in the neighborhood of $95-$115 USD. H&S prices over here are no bueno in comparison. I had a couple questions for those that are knowledgeable about the Procons: 1) The PS-267 is approx $20 cheaper than the PS-270, are the only differences the MAC valve and the angled connector, or does it go deeper than that? 2) Being a newbie I don't think I need the added complication of a MAC valve but if someone could illustrate the practical advantages of having it that would help. 3) I mainly build 1/48 WW2 aircraft, does the .2mm/.5mm lineup make sense? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Hey Jamie - Any USA orders on the horizon? I still need to fill some holes in my collection of AC paints (especially the Russian WW2 ACS series). Also I still haven't been able to get my hands on your proprietary thinner yet which will come in handy when I start airbrushing (thank you Santa). Just wondering if there are any orders in the pipeline from White Ensign/H&B/Warship or if there are any new USA vendors showing interest, thanks.