Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    3,040
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

  1. CF is just very rigid, and once cured will resist any shape changing efforts. The commercially available rods are fully pre cured. They're very light for their considerable strength and are easy to bond with epoxy or superglue. The R/C aeromodelling community likes them for lots of things, but a typical example might be control rods between servo and control surface where it's imporant that the surface itself moves predictably with the servo and in accordance with the transmitter stick rather than buckling. It's usually possible to get a good fit with brass tube so your dio could be dismantlable for transport if needed. The carbon fibre rods may have a better chance of holding a helicopter at the top of a "rope" than steel would, particularly since the weight at the top will be offset and will encourage the "rope" to bend over.
  2. Hi Jerry, In an ideal world I'd have cut the kit parts right off and made from scratch, but I'm a bit lazy so not an ideal human being! Ironically, Trumpeter's 1/350 kit whilst quite tricky to build due to poor parts fit in many places was more accurate in many respects, and in this particular respect the bosses were separate parts the correct shape. On the 1/200 scale kit they addressed their uncharacteristic accuracy issue by introducing several new mistakes they hadn't made on previous Hood kits in different scales. Someone made the bizarre choice that the bosses had to be moulded onto the large single piece hull, and the only way to get a tool to release is to deliberate make the bosses completely the wrong shape. Go figure! It was just a bit of filing away with needle files and some backing plastic which is shown above, but the following is where I've decided shall suffice here. The photo of the real ship shows more acute angles, but this is a decent improvement on Trumpeter's half-baked effort. Again for direct comparison, this is how Trumpeter decided to mould them - the "sides" are vertical to allow the tool to be withdrawn away from the keel (i.e. vertically downwards if the hull is the right way up) Mind boggling decision...
  3. I was at Duxford when this happened to an American P-51B which Nick Gray from The Fighter Collection was offered the proverbial keys to: He was on the PA with the show commentators later and described it as a loud bang and suddenly he was flying a convertible. It was all "terribly exciting", he said, but he felt really awful that he'd broken someone else's aeroplane! On the still for the video above you can see the lack of Malcolm Hood canopy, plus associated dents in the leading edges of the fin and tailplane. It remained in TFC's hangar for quite a while after that minus its empennage!
  4. Lately I've been starting threads off using a picture of the front of the box. If that's not enough to tell people what kit/scale/edition the thread is about then they're going to struggle understanding where to glue the pieces on their own models.
  5. You may find that lacquer / cellulose thinners causes fluorescent pigment to congeal in to a rubbery blob. It does with our fluorescent orange anyway, which I learned the first time I went to spray our tin lids. Generally the stuff does a good job on cleaning out enamel from airbrushes though, but it's not universally compatible with everything that may find its way into enamel paints.
  6. I'd tackle that chine with circular brass rod to define where the break goes with a strip of plasticard butted to above and below which are respectively sanded to a feather into the kit fuselage sides. If the issue is present on Italeri's 1/72 kit I'll do just that myself soon.
  7. Hi Pete, I've got the propeller bosses reshaped now. I want to spend a bit of time comparing the rest of the hull to reality. I wouldn't wish to find anything which should have been an easy fix once it's too late!
  8. Hi, The cutting mats have laser engraved grooves and are utterly, utterly brilliant for this sort of thing. So long as your scalpel blade is vaguely sharp you just whizz around whichever shapes you want. I say that as a serious sceptic who reluctantly accepted some samples then wondered how I ever lived without. I use the reverse side for cutting and working with PE.
  9. Some more tape fitted tonight. Both sides of the fuselage have been kept more-or-less up to date. I'm only doing this on areas which show any real evidence of rippling skins. I don't want the entire thing looking like it's made of bricks!
  10. I'll arrange a 3-person Facebook Messenger call later and you can convince her Col
  11. Some things aren't going to change. The forum is too big for anyone who's employed and/or actually wants to get any modelling done. That's not a criticism but more a lead-in to the fact that the vast majority of the membership has probably never looked in to the vast majority of threads and probably hasn't even been in more of the forum subsections than they have been in to. We each have our own ways of choosing which threads to read and which to pass over, and I think most of us have made peace with the fact that we probably will miss out on some good stuff long ago. For my money, regimented thread titles wouldn't help me there - I tend to be more interested in learning how other people have done things to see if I can try new techniques myself on my own stuff. I'm more likely to want to read a thread about a subject I've no interest in and in a scale I don't normally build all based on a poor kit but that has interesting modelling going on than I am to read a thread based on what manufacturer of base kit and what scale it is.
  12. Indeed. I can't imagine a new tool Vulcan would reach the shelves at less that £69.99 RRP but it could be more. With Hornby under some installed management from their investors I expect all decision making with respect to tooling investments to be based on a business case rather than modellers' desperate needs. Perhaps 2022 would be a good year to release such a kit (if they are going to) to coincide with the 40th anniversary of the Black Buck raids?
  13. Were I in their position the question I would be asking is: "Would retooling Subject X result in an improved bottom line result after making Investment Y and resultant sales within nYears of investment compared to not making Investment Y and continuing with sales of the existing kit we already have?" Lots of people would like a new Vulcan, sure, and most of them would probably buy one including me. How many of them would buy two though? Perhaps me - one white and one camouflaged, but maybe I'd be content after one. Compare that to Airfix's new Spitfire XIV and I can think of 3 subjects off the top of my head I feel like I want to do with that one kit - and I'm not a prolific modeller.
  14. It depends on the structure itself and how it is stressed. I too have seen the effect you describe, but it's usually on parts of the airframe which have been walked on and get dented a bit. This one is good - it shows the wing roots like you describe - but the fuselage skins are buckled outwards slightly: The leading edges show the skins dented inwards where they are riveted to the ribs to form the D-section with the main spar, and they are slightly buckled outwards in between the internal structural members. This Hellcat fuselage skin appears to be buckled outwards away from the fuselage frames and stringers but the unsupported areas are rippled. There are also some like the B52 which buckle the skins in shear in localised places like here: What is obvious though is that for a Hellcat wing, my test piece is too heavy and prominent. I need to make it more subtle for a convincing model.
  15. Hi folks, No progress yesterday or today as we had to take my daughter to Glasgow. She was offered the opportunity to audition for summer lessons with the Scottish Ballet under their "associates" programme and she really wanted to try. I did visit Scott's Models whilst in Glasgow though and relieved him of the new Tamiya Spitfire Mk.I, just because. More taping this week! @dogsbody I actually thought of this with a view to using it in 1/72 scale in a planned build coming soon but on a much more expensive kit I'm as keen as anyone to see if it works
  16. Thank you. I think it's a touch heavy, but it should be easier to do less if that makes sense. Thanks Stew - I stopped for a break and accidently found myself trying out Mackies Icecream's new icecream parlour in Aberdeen! Thanks! I'd like to achieve a softer effect, but learning how to do things is what this is all about We'll see if I agree it's a great idea when it's ready to prime Welcome aboard! I just gave the whole thing a going over. These sanding sponges may be part of the effect - they make it very hard to concentrate force in a small space but I thought that would help in generally rounding everything off. The primer looked quite square and blocky before the sanding sponge did its magic.
  17. The single levers are easy but the twins are quite fiddly and try their hardest to rotate 45deg in the quadrant. It can be hard to see exactly where you are when it's bright brass against bright brass. The eyes can't quite work out where to focus! Little bits at a time generally and working on bite-size pieces of the model are the order of the day. Try to hit it all simultaneously would lead to the shelf of doom I think - for me at least! Thanks for looking in, and do feel free to chime in
  18. I bought another Eduard F6F-5 from @Duncan B a while ago. I didn't bother with any PE this time, so just used an Ultracast seat in the cockpit and tried to do a passable paint job. Due to lack of skill in painting instruments, I did buy @airscale's 1/48 US Navy instrument decals As with the last Eduard F6F I built, I sawed out and thinned down the cowl flaps for what is, in my opinion, a much enhanced appearance for very little effort and no cost. The kit parts have the cowl flaps the full thickness of the cowl piece so even closed they don't look like cowl flaps. It was bought with the intention of making a very ubiquitous ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue US Navy example as seen pretty much everywhere in the Pacific from 1944 to 1945. The trouble is that ANA623 was pretty good paint and therefore most of the stuff modellers do to models such as pre or post shading, panel line washes etc is wholly inappropriate for such an aircraft. Then again, we can't be having a solid, featureless finish because the real aircraft didn't look like that either. I decided to try mimicking the stressed skin appearance of a real aircraft to try to get similar light reflections from a glossy finish. Out with the paint mule! I cut narrow strips of masking tape. The Infini cutting mats made short work of that and got all strips consistent. I gave it two light coats with Halfords grey aerosol primer The tape was removed and I gave it a go over with an Infini 1500grit sanding sponge, the aim being to knock all the corners off and smooth the humps a bit. I then gave it a fairly heavy coat (in many very thin passes) of Colourcoats ACUS34 ANA623 Glossy Sea Blue this morning. This has had a polish with Infini 2500 and 4000 grit sponges and looks like this: Overall, and with more work with the 1500 grit prior to top coat, I feel somewhat positive about it and have decided to go for it. This may take some time! All comments / feedback welcome!
  19. You can get carbon fibre rods in good lengths from radio control model suppliers. That is rather stiff, which is what you'll need here.
  20. I decided to add something to the 8in turrets using spare PE. Next I have to repaint these in 507C, then cut masks for the EX lettering to go on top (I think black is more likely than Profile Morskie's / Trumpeter's red decals).
  21. Thank you! The Revell mixes arrive at yellowish hues anyway...
  22. I'm quite pleased about it and look forward to getting one. I've wanted an accurate Griffon Spit for a long time.
×
×
  • Create New...