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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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Everything posted by Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

  1. Indeed that's where the inspiration is credited to have come from. The effectiveness of Mountbatten Pink was objectively tested though and proved no different to ordinary grey paint of the same Light Reflectance Value in its most effective conditions but somewhat more conspicuous at its worst. The camouflage experts trod quite carefully in drafting documents steering Ships towards more effective camouflage measures whilst avoiding the possibility of insulting Mountbatten by denouncing his pink paint as the total nonsense it was.
  2. Mountbatten Pink is a weird colour. It was made using pigment oil pastes already available through the stores and logistics system; specifically those used for Home Fleet Grey albeit with a reduced quantity of the ultramarine & black Pattern 370A blue-black paste and Venetian Red added instead. It's a bit too "odd" to have any shared characteristics with other armed forces colours served by the model paints marketed, whilst being too dull and drab to have much civilian appeal or application. All that said, I did discuss HMS Campbeltown with @dickrd some time ago and the origins of the first reference to Mountbatten Pink of the ship (or even the fleet!) are not that clear. It's not from a known primary source reference and the challenge with secondary source references i.e. books is establishing who exactly said something to the author. I don't think that has been established. The upshot is that whilst it's difficult to categorically rule out Mountbatten Pink (i.e. I'm not saying it's wrong) it's also difficult to rule out grey. Indeed with the modifications undertaken structurally to make the ship somewhat resemble a German destroyer at a distance, one may speculate that painting it pink might somewhat undermine the disguise.
  3. Hi EJ, I had not infact seen that particular clip before although it's somewhat ghostly seeing Orkney in colour on cinefilm as I recognize some of those locations and the place looks much the same today unlike Shetland where I was born which underwent a drastic "modernisation" at the end of the 1970s and 1980s with the establishment of the UK's oil industry which passed Orkney by. Fortunately the clip of Nelson doesn't change my views of what colours she was wearing. I think we can safely say this was still fairly early in the stated time window too thanks to particular details in the camouflage design which were painted out in 1943.
  4. Jadlam might want to double check they're not committing an offence with how they're posting Class III Flammable Liquids. A private individual may get a degree of leniency citing ignorance, but ignorance will be no defence in court for the Directors of a commercial business. https://www.gov.uk/shipping-dangerous-goods/rules-for-different-types-of-transport By air You can be given an unlimited fine, sentenced to 2 years in prison or both if your cargo fails an inspection or causes a safety incident. By road There’s a range of fixed penalty fines if your cargo fails a spot check. By sea You can be fined for breaking the regulations on transporting dangerous goods. You can be prosecuted and face a large fine and a prison sentence for serious breaches, for example transporting animal by-products in an unsafe way.
  5. On the face of it, there is logic in the reasoning given in the article. Drones have completely changed tactical reconnaissance in Ukraine.
  6. I think a better option to explore (as well as being a lot cheaper and lighter) would be to just mount it in an acrylic case. If you're not too ambitious with the sea state then cutting a U-Boat shape out of an acrylic sheet to fit around the boat supporting it vertically, you can then do all the acrylic medium stuff on top of it and hide any longitudinal joint quite effectively as well as fill in any imperfections where it meets the hull will all work quite well. To avoid complete transparency, you can tint the acrylic sides of what's effectively a fish tank with translucent bluish green. The beauty of this is that you can build it up slowly and try your boat in to see what visual effect you get. Just like an actual fish tank with water in it, you'll find that a solid resin casting isn't actually all that good for viewing the model inside - it's fine absolutely square on to the side of the piece but look at an angle and refraction does all sorts of weird things so you can't really admire your model as much as perhaps envisaged.
  7. Heat will be a huge issue (and let's not talk ourselves into minimalising it mentally - if it doesn't burst into flames it'll burn the resin and discolour it internally, and the 1/48 plastic U-boat will almost certainly melt), and from personal experience if you cast it in layers to manage the heat those layers will be visible in the finished item. You won't see them looking down from above but they'll be quite apparent from the sides unfortunately. On the plus side, applying acrylic medium and sculping waves on the surface after pouring and curing is fine.
  8. Funnily enough, my full-size sail making instructor also recommended Historic Ship Models from his own extensive personal collection as a really good piece of work showing how things work full-size too. There's just as much jargon and nuance in rigging as there is in hull construction and it can be difficult to find all the information you're looking for in a single book - e.g. a topping lift and lazy jacks can appear to serve the same purpose but not really, the former is to support a boom when a 4-sided sail is being raised or lowered and doesn't support the gaff itself, whilst the latter is really to control the sail itself and the gaff at the top from flapping around during the raising or lowering.
  9. I've got a lot of catching up to do after a difficult Q4 and January so far so I'm not sure to be honest. It's not a big seller, and that's perhaps why it's not well served by model paints. It's not hugely useful with fairly limited application outside of aircraft cockpits and in those cases many either aren't particularly fussy or dislike how the real colour looks in context and choose something far lighter they prefer the appearance of, both of which are reasons I can understand.
  10. Shame about the old Transall, but glad the crew are all unhurt.
  11. It's true about the Zvezda kit's windscreen, and I think the Zvezda kit is derived from the old KP kit. It's not that hard to change the windscreen though. I sanded the top of the framing off, polished it up, masked the panes to the correct shape then built up new framing with primer.
  12. That looks good to me to be honest. The starboard side is a bit bit of a mess but for the port side I feel this is quite credible. I do think the darkest colour is MS1.
  13. Would you mind recolouring the above using the following sRGB coordinates? MS3 - r121 g133 b131 MS4 - r146 g151 b146 I think we'd get a better feel for this that way.
  14. In keeping with the mark-up convention which @dickrd and @foeth were using when they introduced me to their works on HMS Prince of Wales originally which is marking up tones from darkest to lightest, I have avoided using "A" in this photograph saving that for what I am fairly sure is MS1. This is IWM A4170 showing close up and in very good quality the relative tones of the mid and lightest tones, which I've labelled as "B" and "C" respectively, in an environment with other things like sailors' uniforms. I simply can't see "C" as 507C. It's dull and drab, and I feel quite strongly that this is no lighter than MS4. There also appears to me to be a fourth shade "D", lighter than others, amidships on the hull on the starboard side.
  15. Hi Neil, I am thinking of adjusting the colour of NARN40 (B55) a bit this time but am finishing some other paints first. G10 is among this lot. I have the latest draw down sample beside me. I needs one more little tweak... Regarding the pendant numbers, there wasn't a single font. Atlantic Models and maybe Starling Models sell generic sets, but an alternative if your subject has a style different from the decals is to cut a set of vinyl masks to airbrush on your pendants. I've made a few sets for various modellers. It works quite well and you can get the colour exactly as you want it should it be other than black or white.
  16. It doesn't and never applied to water dispersible acrylics like Xtracrylix. It was Methyl ethyl ketoxime, abbreviated to MEKO, or alternatively Butanone Oxime which was used as an anti-skinning agent in oil bound alkyd resin type paints (commonly called enamels but not the same thing as enamel you find on your teeth or on camping mugs). This is now a banned substance at least in terms of sale to the general public. The reason Humbrol seemed to get caught out was that for whatever reason nobody at Hornby realised that what they were having manufactured by their subcontractor could be sold to the general public until after the restriction came into effect. https://echa.europa.eu/substance-information/-/substanceinfo/100.002.270 Pity though - it was pretty good stuff for what it was used for.
  17. Hi Casey, those ones were, yes. They were done a few years ago when the Nix was all we had at home. It's definitely not as accurate as a proper one but it's definitely got uses. I couldn't have carried a desktop around Portsmouth naval base for example The renders were sRGB. I suppose the key takeaway is that the Tamiya AS paint samples I was sent aren't/weren't especially good for any of the US Navy colours either aircraft or ship types.
  18. Another forum member sent me a swatch of AS-8 to compare to my copy of the US Navy Monogram chips. Here is the comparison.
  19. Hi Andy, there's now a couple of litres of 507C made - luckily I nailed this batch first time with no adjustments needed which is nice. They still need decanted into retail tins, but we're back in action* *ish - having replaced an entire circuit (one of the 16 colourant systems) to get it working, another one split a seal and started leaking before the man left. It works, but it's not dispensing the full quantity because some is pumped out past the seal to mess up the internals of the machine which isn't ideal. With solvent types which we use, they do apparently sometimes reseal themselves when the spilled liquid around the leak dries up so we're cleaning up the mess and waiting to see what happens. It was still leaking this morning so I'll probably have to replace the canister and bellows for this other circuit too. I can work around this for most colours but when I need more anti-fouling red for example I need this circuit working properly. Machines. There's always something...
  20. Hi, I am fine but the paint machine is still broken. Doing paperwork just now to try to get someone up here to fix it...
  21. I think that PBJ may have the leading edges painted in ANA608 instead, something I've also seen on TBFs or TBMs (I can't remember which!).
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