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Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

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Everything posted by Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies

  1. I have to admit to still being really confused. Do you want to paint them using vintage ideas of paints, or do you want to paint them correctly?
  2. Thanks Bill, I realise calipers aren't ideal for this but they're probably more accurate than my powersanding efforts! In all seriousness though, I would not object at all to an Imperial set - I am bilingual with measurements, having grown up with radio controlled models built to plans mostly drawn by older generations in Imperial sizes. With balsa and ply as well as hardware being sold in either or units depending on the whims of the manufacturer, one had to learn very quickly to hop between systems to make any progress! In the meantime, behold here a layout. The long shaft is still too short, but it shows more clearly how it's going to look. One of the cuts comes close to the removeable panel with the round window on the HC1, a feature not present at all on the BV234, so to improve my chances here I took the opportunity to glue in the heavily relief-detailed panel and window, sanded off the relief which stood proud of the fuselage skin then filled over it to take care of that which sits lower. No real need to be especially tidy at this point as there is much more butchery to come and surface work with it. I may even fill all the panel lines on this, as they are somewhat trench-like and that's not obvious on photographs of the BV234. Lap joints and domed rivets, yes, but big 1990s fashion panel lines not so much.
  3. That's rather nice, and the fact it's brush painted is something I'd never have guessed. Very nice work.
  4. That's lovely. The oil cooler is fantastic - as in "I didn't realise how cack my OOB oil cooler looked until now"
  5. I measured the shafts on the Adobe Illustrator scale diagram, and marked up the steel accordingly with tape, knowing that pen marks seem to vanish instantly that a cutting tool is brought on-scene. And the pieces are mocked up thus. I have made a mistake in ordering lengths 200mm long in my enthusiasm to get started, but the big green shaft is actually 247mm long so I've had to order a longer length. You can get the idea from this though. Where bearings and gears aren't on the shafts, that's because the shafts need more time in the gym. The tip of the pen shows where the electric motor goes. A "pen drive" if you will? I'll see myself out...
  6. One feature worth mentioning, and which I'm glad I thought about in advance is this pair of spur gears. The smaller 12 tooth gear has a 4mm (apparently) bore which should (haha) match the 4mm shaft on the 300rpm geared motor which is on its way from eBayland. It's going to drive a 3mm shaft though - the green one - and whilst 3mm gears are available and it's tempting to look at the tooth count, it's actually the tooth size and overall diameter which matters. A 16 tooth gear which has a diameter that gives me the speed reduction I need and teeth of suitable size to mesh properly with the 12 tooth 4mm gear has a 5mm bore. Fortunately, I didn't order a smaller 16 tooth 3mm gear which just wouldn't have fitted the gear on the motor, but I did get these little bronze bushes which push into the 5mm bore on the gear and make it 3mm instead. Or someone's idea of 3mm anyway. This is quite snug when pushed all together but I'll loctite it in due course anyway to prevent any foul-ups.
  7. I upgraded even from that, suspecting myself of lacking the patience. I have tested a piece of the steel rod with a power drill and a combination belt sander & grinding wheel bench tool. It seems to work although getting uniformity will be difficult. Now I know it basically works though, I will cut the pieces to length and work on the individually. The plastic bearings have some elasticity. The steel ball bearings are not very compliant though. The shafts will probably end up slightly cigar-shaped with the ends tapered more than the middle, but that's ok so long as everything fits on where it's supposed to.
  8. The delivery van driver has been. Woohoo! RS Components has been really fast. Unfortunately I've had to contact them. I'm pretty sure it's an accident so I'm not in any way annoyed or upset - I'd just like the bearing. One of the red and white packages for the ball bearings hasn't been heat sealed along the bottom and the bearing has gone walkies. It was all very well packaged otherwise and the wee bearing isn't in there so I'd imagine it fell out before the packaging staff even pulled a handfull of them out of the storage bin/box/whatever they use to fulfil the order. They hardly weigh anything so it would be an easy miss. Anyway, keen to try things, the first lesson is one of tolerance. The 3mm stainless steel rod I bought from eBay isn't. My calipers aren't the best quality and under-read by about 0.1mm so I think this is actually 1/8th inch diameter, not 3mm as advertised. I have an idea on that which I'll test later. It may involve power tools and abrasives... Meanwhile, the other components are not quite 3mm bore either, but in the other direction. That's maybe not the end of the world, as whilst the bearings and gears currently don't fit on the steel rod, if I can make them fit then a bit of an interference fit would be helpful actually. Reaming out plastic gears is easy. Reaming out the inner bore of a ball bearing not so much - so it's the shaft that needs to go on a diet.
  9. Hi, I did think of a belt which is common for tail rotor drives in RC helicopters, but I chickened out as belt length and tension becomes important and there's still the issue of the forward tilted rotor heads and the need to drive the forward rotormast which sits above the cockpit, so I'd still need that red idler shaft in there to get the power "upstairs" without encroaching into the cockpit which would be pretty noticeable I think Thank you! I hope I don't disappoint! Thanks! I am attracted to predictable solutions, and my hope is that this one looks more elaborate than it really is, because I'll put more effort into the external bodywork of this one than I did on the resin HH-3E on the assumption that this one is going to work Exactly, it's because without that red idler shaft the forward shaft would be between the pilots' seats. As for the shaft at the back, yes I believe we can - that's basically the "Option B" that I didn't think of until after I'd drawn the retrospectively named "Option A" I will need to relocate that ballbearing to aft of the gear though to pick up the thrust load on the shaft. I'll make a note to do that now actually... Thanks! As above, I hope I don't disappoint! Hi Bill, I'm not much into breaking new ground so I'm effectively copying the real one with the horizontal shaft. My only real "even better if" (mein gott, I sound very corporate - I wish my mortgage was paid off so I could get a proper job and stop playing BS Bingo for a living!) would be to have custom made bevel gears with the right pressure angles. My dad remembers the aft rotor mast being tilted 1.5 degrees forward compared to the datum line and the forward mast being tilted 5 degrees forward. Custom gears would allow me to have the shaft horizontal along the cabin roof and be able to put some seats inside like wot scale modellers are supposed to do. The best I can do with commercial gears is to tilt the horizontal shaft to minimise the angular difference between the not-horizontal shaft and the not-vertical shafts to the point the gears won't really notice.
  10. I'm just catching up on this. I do like the fact that your planking strakes do run fore and aft like there's supposed to without loads of drop planks and stealers like lots of wooden boat models end up with. Likewise the turning down of that mast looks nice and fair also. Good work. I would suggest (easy for me to say) to try not to get too downhearted about lack of engagement on a forum - much engagement is of little added value anyway and something like you're doing here is out of many folks' comfort zones so they will have less to add technically.
  11. Thank you Bill. I'll make an effort to maintain some sort of pace with this one. In the mean time, I've noticed another mistake. The large light green spur gear is too large to fit in the fuselage there. It's a reminder to think in 3D rather that 2D! The solution is to lower the green shaft in the fuselage so that spur gear doesn't extend above the cabin roof (as the gear is wider than the inside of the pylon). This effectively means the green shaft, motor and so on are the same in Option A and B. The only difference therefore is Option A has one extra shaft. There may be 2 spare ball bearings coming in the above order - which isn't the end of the world.
  12. Before committing to plastic, I'm trying paper print-outs of planned inserts to check how they fit and to convince myself that my planned cut lines make some sense!
  13. I've ordered the parts now, so there is a (hopefully short!) wait whilst they are posted to me. In the mean time, I plan to start designing the new fuselage sides and saddle tanks to modify the kit.
  14. https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/blogs/news/business-update As with many others, we have faced multiple challenges as a business over the last few years. Uncertainty, increased administration and so on caused by Brexit, increasing raw material and base product prices, difficulties sourcing materials, vast increases in tin costs and difficulties with escalating costs of shipping flammable liquids have brought additional strain to the business. We have managed to contain most of these concerns by making small changes to pricing (only when applicable to new stocks) and rewarding our customers (free gifts last December). However, as a business we do have to evolve to the changing circumstances and as such as have taken the decision to discontinue 61 less-popular colours from our range. Typically, we only discontinue a colour when new research deems it inaccurate or when we are not happy with the quality of the product. This time however, we are streamlining our range to enable us to maintain better stocks of the popular colours. The colours we have discontinued remain accurate colours, however they are very slow sellers and we must accept these products are poor use of our limited cash, production capacity or storage space when we restock. All discontinued stock will be available until they are sold out with a 20% discount (applied automatically at checkout). These will not be re-made in the future, so this is your last chance to get these colours. What is being discontinued? We are discontinuing the entire range of French Air Force, WWI Allied Naval Camouflage, Italian Navy, Modern Navy, Imperial Japanese Army, Australian Army, Israeli Self-Defence Force, Italian Army, Russian Army and United States Army and Marine Corps, alongside individual colours as named below. C07 – Buff, C08 – Bright Blued Gunmetal, C10 – Parkerised Gunmetal, C11 – Blued Gunmetal, ACGW05 – Beige, ACGW06 – Chestnut Brown, ACGW07 – Dark Green, ACGW08 – Light Green, ACGW09 – Light Yellow ACLW07 – Hellgrau (L40/52) ACS05 – WUP Grey Interior Primer, ACS06 – IMUP Blue-Grey Metal Primer, ACS07 – ALG-5 Metal Primer, ACS14 – AE9 Grey, ACS22 – A.II Red, ACUS10 – WWII USN Non-Specular White, ACUS31 – Yellow Sand (FS20400), ACUS32 – Brown Special 9FS30140) KM07 – Blaugrau Dunkel, KM08 – Norwegian Blaugrau Mittel, KM09 – Blaugrau Hell US37 - Slate
  15. I'll do the mock-up. It won't take long to do and should give indicative results pretty quickly. Thanks! Hmm. This stuff is all new to me and whilst it does look clever, it's also a rather expensive solution to a fairly simple problem going by those prices. There's no learning curve at all nor any special skills needed for a handful of plastic gears and cheap ball bearings No issues with lumpy motors either for that matter. The size of those stepper motors would mean they couldn't be located where they needed to be, so the majority of the the gears and shafts would still be needed - only without the mechanical certainty of the big shaft down the middle guaranteeing the rotors remain synchronised under all circumstances. Now if there's some small gadget that can be fed a sound sample and play it, I'm all ears. No pun intended!
  16. Most of the controller stuff is way beyond my clanky brain sadly! If I could 3D model and 3D print, the best solution, I think, would be to print new bevel gears with the correct angles which is how the real thing does it. I can't do either of those things though so unless someone is about to volunteer I'm stuck with using 90 deg commercially available items. I would honestly rather have that shaft horizontal running along the cabin roof but everything is a compromise in the end! Your question about cost is a good one though. The difference is about £4, since the spur gears come in a pack of 5 anyway and it's only 2 ball bearings which are different. That said, the act of laying this all out did cause me to change my shopping list last night when I realised I had simply chosen components which were not compatible with one another! I spent lunchtime making adjustments: Option A has been tweaked slightly to line up bearings and remove the need for one additional mounting plate. Hardly transformational, but a small optimisation. Whilst Option B with some changes looks like it would now work. Everything still fits that used to fit, and the thing which didn't fit now does fit. Bringing the widest spinny-roundy bits forward a smidgeon opens the internal width of the rear pylon out to 14.7mm which allows either of these options to work.
  17. I've got my first plastic bits out of the box. The fuselage halves are bowed and will need some Basic Modelling Skills(TM) applied to join them, but that's down the line. Right now, tape is good enough. This thinking ahead thing is paying off. Option B as it currently stands doesn't fit. The internal width at the location of the aft spur gear and ballbearing is 12.5mm, but the width of the spinny bits plus structure to hold them (remember I want to avoid just smooshing working parts into gaps and ending up with wobbly rotors like the HH-3E did ) will be approximately 14mm. It could be narrowed slightly, but this will still be Oh So Close, and I don't want any foul-ups. The options are either: 1) Revert to Option A with two idler shafts, moving the green shaft ball bearing and mitre gear forward and slightly downwards away from this pinch point in the pylon, or; 2) Lower the whole power train down into the fuselage and extend the forward idler (red) shaft and aft purple shaft. Of these, I'm currently leaning towards Option A, but I'll do some more digital scribbling. I haven't ordered the bits yet pending this.
  18. I've only actually flown in RAF Chinooks (that I can remember anyway - I certainly flew in BAH/BIH S-61Ns once or twice) but the noise inside will be familiar to everyone who's been in one I'm sure! I understand they are ex G-BISR and G-BISN respectively I haven't seen a 234 in a LONG time here!
  19. Continuing with thoughts and planning before cutting plastic, I've laid out roughly where the internal crutch would need to go and roughly what it would look like. This is sufficient for me to start taking some internal measurements of the fuselage halves, especially at pinch points e.g. the rotor pylons and just check everything is going to fit. With Option B here, which right now is my favourite, I want to confirm that the green spur gear and ball bearing at the aft end will fit in the pylon. I could possibly extend the red shaft and aft purple shaft to lower those green components down in the fuselage 10mm, but it's best to make an informed decision using measurements!
  20. I like the idea but fear I would require a LOT of "community support" on that. I'd find myself out of my depth opening the packaging!
  21. If it's any indication, there are 14 times as many posts in the military aviation subforum as compared to this civil aviation subforum. 603,000 posts as compared to 42,200 posts.
  22. Whilst the Scottish National Scale Model Show we're just back from was bad use of our time in a business sense, I can find a positive slant on it if I consider that we paid £200 to find out that the public seemed to quite like my little motorised aeroplane and helicopter. The moving parts seemed to catch peoples' eyes from some distance and they'd come over to look and talk about it. Notwithstanding that I have no real idea where I may go that would allow anyone to see it, I have decided I'd like to pluck the Revell 1/48 Chinook that I bought in Devon with my then fiancee (we've been married 17 years now) out of the stash and build it as one of British Airways Helicopters' BV234s which I still have some childhood memories of. I did ask my dad @skyscooter if he had a favourite out of the fleet, and the response was that G-BISP and G-BISR were the best ones. From an engineering point of view, I interpret that to mean those two worked fairly well more than the rest of them did. I'm consciously avoiding G-BWFC which was a bad time for dad, although by way of showing it's a small world indeed, @Duncan B is friends with the captain who survived the fairly horrific crash's son. What the show at Perth did demonstrate was that the HH-3E and HC-130P models aren't actually very good. They were unreliable over the weekend and needed a fairly bit of impromtu repair. I told various people that I hadn't really thought them through properly and failed to make sufficient effort because I honestly wasn't confident it was all going to work. In the interests of not repeating avoidable mistakes, this time I'm trying to be a bit more methodical and plan out the whirly bits. I've started by attempting a scale drawing of the Chinook HC1 as kitted, from which I will adapt. I have a Cricut Maker which does cut plasticard well, so will cut new fuselage side inserts with the cabin windows using that in due course. Next I studied various photographs of the BV-234 and marked up the differences. There are more detail differences yet to capture, but for now I'm concentrating on big chunks of plastic in need of carving up. Which upon removing the original layer leaves me with something close to a BV 234 civil Chinook. I had some discussion with dad about the differences, and the relocated undercarriage was a new one, despite him knowing the civil machines literally inside out. It seems the MH-47E which first flew in 1991 is pretty much a BV 234 with military gadgets added and indeed it looks very similar in most respects except the cabin windows. The wheels are in a different place on the MH-47E compared to the CH-47A/D too, I discovered just today. As the Chinook has counter rotating and intermeshing rotors, just having two motors won't be good enough for this. They need to be properly geared together, so I've spent a bit of time on RS Components' website choosing mitre gears, spur gears and ball bearings to suit the required purpose. I've ordered a 300rpm geared motor from eBay, but can't confirm the precise dimensions until it arrives. It'll fit inside though - there's plenty space. The transmission will be 3mm diameter steel shafts. I will design a cradle structure to hold the ball bearings in place, and plan to insert the whole thing in through the floor. I won't use most of the Revell interior hence - the BV 234 was completely different inside anyhow and the small windows won't permit much viewing of the interior. I have two options for the drive layout, and will probably go for Option B as it's simpler and cheaper, needing 2 fewer spur gears and 2 fewer ball bearings. It took me until I saw Option A to realise I could just flip round one of the mitre gears and still achieve the correct rotational direction on each rotor mast. Option A Option B I'll sleep on this and will try to order the gears and bearings tomorrow Power will be external again. I have superimposed D cell batteries on the above layout and they're both too tight and will probably squash the undercarriage. Thanks for reading.
  23. The results are in: Sovereign Hobbies made a net profit of Minus £200, give or take a few quid. (Total revenue approximately half what it was last time we attended)
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