This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Badder last won the day on January 1

Badder had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,967 Excellent


About Badder

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 28/03/65

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Artist, musician (drummer) writer, fresh water angling, model-making, model-destroying.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,226 profile views
  1. Problems with the roof continue.... I carved down into the naff area so that there would be enough depth to accept a skim of plaster. Too shallow and there was a risk of the plaster merely flaking off the surface when sanded. As it turned out, the problem was the drying time of the plaster. Despite making a very wet mix, the stuff was drying almost instantly it was applied. This meant that I could not spread it about evenly with a spatula or level it off. (For 'spatula' read Magnum Ice Cream Stick) The plaster 'skim' then, ended up being rather thicker than I had anticipated and required rather a lot of sanding to get it down to near base level. Then I'd use my flat diamond file to get the rows of tiles defined. Unfortunately my flat diamond file proved a bit too destructive for the job, and I ended up taking off rather too much plaster in places, creating a depression or sag in the roof. Whilst this isn't a disaster (old roofs do sag) it was slightly too much of a sag for my liking. So, to skim again. Only this time I used Green Putty. This proved to remain workable for several minutes and so a better result was obtained than if I had stuck with using plaster. Using the 'spatula' I was able to spread, level and smooth the putty to my liking. A sanding stick (for 'sanding stick' read Disposable Nail File) is now being used to get the putty ready for carving the indivudual tiles. TFL Badder
  2. Thanks Major, Glad you are enjoying it. As you can see, I don't mind showing my errors, failed attempts at saves, and complete !!!! Often I see a WIP and think.... hang on, there's something that's been skipped here! I'd prefer to see their mess-ups and saves as well! And on that note, the work on the roof repair is progressing, but I don't think it's going to be completely unnoticeable when finished. I'm wondering if I can maybe have a bloke up there on a ladder and scaffolding carrying out 'Post Liberation Repairs' ? That would certainly add a bit of extra interest to the dio! Rearguards, Badder
  3. I'm currently working on re-carving the stonework patterns in the walls and window surrounds, and the tile pattern where the extra width has been added. The roof tiles are proving rather troublesome as the CA has formed a tough line down the slope of the roof and this is resistant to all but heavy sanding. The bead of CA runs straight down the roof tiles, alternately running down the join between two adjacent tiles (where it is no problem) but bisecting the alternate tiles (where it is!). It is proving difficult to remove the ridge of CA without affecting the bisected tiles. I will post pics to explain the problem more clearly. (they will appear here in this post as an edit) I have considered cutting these tiles out completely and replacing them with plasticard tiles. I have also considered scraping the tiles back quite deeply, skimming over with plaster, and then re-carving. Whilst I originally preferred the first option, (it requiring less work) I am now leaning towards the second option as it SHOULD give a better uniform finish. So here's the messy joint where I had to add a section of tiles to extend the roof. (The plaster cast shrank during drying and so didn't match the length of the building.) I had tried sanding and scraping the tiles to tidy everything up, but wasn't successful. Here, I've repainted the tiles so as to show the point I'd reached before deciding to try something else. And here's where I've scraped the problem area back in readiness for skimming over with plaster. TFL Badder
  4. Having thought about it, I think dry-brushing with the dark yellow was correct. After all, the tanks came off the production line painted dark yellow and the camo was added later. So the red/brown and dark green, when worn away, were going to show the underlying dark yellow. Your dry brushing replicates this. I still think there might be a place for dry brushing over some of the camo with the lighter red/brown and dark green though. A less weathered tank might benefit from it? It's hard to say. It might just look odd? Rearguards, Badder
  5. Lookin' good Ozzy. As always with ad-hoc camo, it's a shame it hides the underlying details. But then the straw is spot on, and very evocative, so even if I didn't know you were using the B.o.B scene for inspiration, I'd have guessed it! Rearguards, Badder
  6. Hi Vince, Whilst I do admire Stix's vignettes and dioramas and rate his brush skills as amongst the very best, I think I might drive him up the wall if we were to collaborate on making a dio. I can say that with confidence because I drive myself up the wall. Since returning to model-making I've leant that I am incapable of planning the content and layout of a diorama and sticking to it! Hence the title of this thread. Thanks for the thumbs up! Rearguards, Badder Hi Stix, Thanks for the 'bigging me up', but I think you're underestimating your own skills when it comes to building dios/vignettes. Btw, I managed to crack the wall in half while carving some more stonework, but it's fixed now and strengthened! I hope u and Mrs Stix have a great weekend too. Rearguards, Badder
  7. Here's the wall section with the doorway blocked in with a stonework insert. The obvious outline is caused by CA which dries with a dark glassy appearance when in contact with plaster of Paris. Also visible are some repaired cracks, some chipping and a couple of holes caused by air bubbles in the casts. Some filling may or may not be carried out. I've now given the wall section a coat of brown and then dusted over with plaster dust, bringing out the stonework to see how well I've hidden where the doorway was. I think I've done a pretty good job. I also gave the roof a rough going over with brick red to see how well the added width of tiles has been blended in. As feared, the join is fairly obvious and so it will require some more work. And finally, I extended the floors and the partition wall on the upper floor so that they reach the rear wall of the building. Again, I used balsa wood. It's light in weight, splits in nice straight lines and bonds well with medium CA, so it's great stuff to use I haven't been too fussy with the partition wall. It's really only there to prevent light shining straight through the building from one side to the other. I gave the entire side wall a coat of brown. As you can see, I've not yet carved the stonework pattern where the plaster section of wall meets the plastic wall. However, you can see that by scraping back the 'joint' and filling it with plaster, the area is nice and flat so the join should be invisible. The joint at the opposite end of the building hasn't been scraped back or filled yet. I also have to re-carve the brickwork around most of the windows. TFL Badder
  8. Hi Stix, I am well, thanks for asking. If the MiniArt kits were better they wouldn't need inventiveness, so good luck with building one OOB! Having said that, I do enjoy the challenge, and as I keep saying, they do provide a source of moulds for scratching future buildings. I'm glad you find the WIP useful, Rearguards Badder
  9. It's all been said above.... I will just add that you were right about the dry brushing. It looks fantastic. Rearguards, Badder
  10. Work on the upper wall section is progressing. I've carved out the window aperture. I've also blocked up the doorway: re-carving the stonework so as to hide the fact that it was ever there. At least, that's the plan. Until it's been given a base coat, I can't be certain that the outline won't show. As it is, there's a dark 'glassy' outline of the doorway where the CA was used to fix the plaster insert in place. The section has been worked further to improve its fit with the roof. A gutter will once again hide any naff bits . I've also laid the floor in the upper rooms, using balsa wood again. I have yet to construct the inner dividing walls. They won't be fitted until nearing the end. Pics tomorrow. TFL Badder
  11. Don't forget, I've been scraping the corners of my walls back, re-filling with plaster and re-carving the details, so the walls are also fixed together with plaster. And of course the foundations of the building will be set in plaster when fitted to the base, so really, the only things that are possibly ever going to fall apart, or off, are the minor details. Badder
  12. If you're talking about gluing plaster of Paris parts together, then I've found thin CA is best if the fit is very good, and medium or thick if it isn't. Thin CA is also great for repairing cracks before the piece fully comes apart, or at least before the broken edges are further damaged: then use medium. With my plaster roof I had to bend the thing very slightly to get a good fit.... and YES it did bend by about 1.5mm over its entire length (it's quite a thin casting) So I fixed one end of the roof in place with first thin and then medium CA (from inside) and let that completely dry. Then i blobbed thick CA in a few spots along the other end of the roof and held the roof down in place until that dried. Then I trickled thin CA into the join (again from inside) and reinforced with medium. Btw, CA doesn't really 'soak' into plaster. It joins 'rough' plaster better, what with the larger surface area that that creates. So, as I said, it's good for cracks, or sanded plaster. On smooth plaster it just forms a skin, which can be peeled off. So, I have been reinforcing all the joints in my buildings with PVA. Rearguards, Badder
  13. As I've already stated, the construction of the rear wall of this building was going to be the hardest part of this build. With the rest of the building all fixed together square and true, it is essentially one piece, but the rear wall has to be constructed from several parts, all of which have to fit square and true to each other, and to the building. To make things a bit easier, I decided to fix the roof in place earlier than might seem sensible. However, whilst in does restrict access to the interior, it does form another datum which I can use to square and true the rear wall. And a baton of wood, spanning the gap between two side walls, not only forms another datum, but also increases the rigidity of the entire building, marks the level of the first floor floorboards, and forms a support and backing for the upper and lower floor sections of the rear wall. The roof was 'tacked' in place with blobs of thick CA first, then fixed more fully with thin CA, then reinforced with PVA. I also glued a baton of wood underneath the roof, leaving a 10mm gap, and then filled the gap with a tube of rolled up paper soaked in CA. This forms a support for the roof, but has some give in it, just in case there is some increase in tension during the fixing of the rear wall, or the fixing of the building to the diorama base. Hopefully, the roof won't ever crack, but if it does then maybe the paper support will keep it all held together and make it easier to repair. \ Batton of wood CA'd and PVA'd into place at a level equal to the first floor floorboards, Below, Upper section of the rear wall. The ends of the wall have been chamfered at a 45 degree angle to fit the corresponding chamfers at the ends of the side walls. As you can see, I changed my mind and rather than constructing the upper section from several casts, I used a cast of the corresponding wall from the front of the building. I will block in and hide the doorway with an insert of stonework. And of course I will cut out the window aperture. btw, the hand was supplied by 'Hands R Us'. I will be using a second cast of this same section of wall to make the ground floor section, only I will be leaving the door in place. TFL Badder
  14. Hi Ozzy, Great to see you've made a start on the construction of the building. I look forward to watching your progress. The advantages with using cast plaster walls is that they are easier to carve details into, and easier to carve and sand in order to get them to fit together nicely. The disadvantage is that they aren't easy to produce true to the size and shape of the original and they will therefore require a lot more carving and sanding in order to get them to fit together nicely. Rearguards, Badder
  15. Progress stalled over the past few day s because I've had a few problems casting parts for the rear wall of the building: that being warping of the plaster during drying. After two failed attempts I came to the conclusion that this was down to the thickness of the plaster pourings being affected differently under varying climatic conditions. Whereas several thin pourings have dried straight and true in the past when the central heating was on, they do not now, when it is not. This seems to me to be contrary to logic. But whatever, thicker pourings have dried without warping. That at least, seems logical. So, I now have three casts with which to construct the major part of the rear wall. I am going to use a cast of the upper section of the front wall (including the doorway) as the basis for the ground floor section of the rear wall, and casts of the two side wall sections as the major part of the upper floor section. I will have to insert one or two windows in this upper floor section. There will be more work required to build this wall than any previous part, because it will be entirely made up of casts which will need fitting with each other, and the side walls, and the roof. There will be a fair bit of re-carving of the details at all the joints. Finally, I will also have to support the structure internally. Oh, and I haven't forgotten the chimney. I have yet to decide whether to use the kit's brick chimney, or make my own. TFL Badder