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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".


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Badder last won the day on January 1

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 28/03/65

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  • Interests
    Artist, musician (drummer) writer, fresh water angling, model-making, model-destroying.

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  1. Window surrounds painted to near completion and whole thing given a dusting with plaster powder. Blue not showing up so much in photo, maybe due to the dusting, but it's going to get more blue anyway. TFL Badder.
  2. Thanks Ozzy. I've tidied up the stonework a bit more since painting it. (Pure white plaster is a bit blinding and hides some of the 'not so good bits') Oh, by 'diamond needle file' I meant those needle files that are impregnated with diamond dust. I got a pack from Hobbycraft. You get half a dozen in a pack, each with a different shaped cross-section. There's a choice of a pack of small files, or larger ones I have both. Rearguards, Badder
  3. And the same to you and yours. Rearguards, Badder
  4. Cheers Stix It's an honour to have you along for the ride. Here's the wall with the brickwork carved: (I used a diamond needle file rather than a scalpel) ....and given a going over with dark earth weathering powder mixed with water: I've test fitted this section to the building (obviously) and it's quite a nice fit. Actually gluing it in place isn't going to be straight forward though, as I want to make it very very secure. Simply applying CA around the edges and slotting it in place won't do as there's not a huge amount of contact area in some places. So, I'm going to use my 'roll of paper soaked in CA technique'. But first though, I have to finish the windows. I had planned to cover them with shutters, getting around the issue of not actually having any kit window frames left. However, I have found a few bits and pieces which I may be able to adapt to make one window fully framed. So, maybe one window with the shutters closed, and one window with the shutters open? We shall see. TFL Badder
  5. Thanks guys, you've saved me a lot of time and effort! I was beginning to think the Tamiya King Tiger was a lemon and no one touched it with a barge pole! Rearguards, Badder
  6. I've just purchased this kit and it now resides in my stash, but I'm really looking forward to building it. I searched the forums and have perused 7 pages but I can't find a single thread for the Tamiya kit, only Takom, Academy, DML etc, Can someone with more patience provide a link for me? There MUST be at least one Tamiya 1/35th King Tiger in here somewhere! Thanks, Badder
  7. HI Cromwell, I haven't looked at the links supplied above, but I have watched quite a few others. Here's a few tips that you might find useful, if they aren't mentioned in the links. Firstly, you can't beat real wood for realism! I use coffee stirring sticks for things like floorboards, beams, rafters etc. Gluing several sticks together to make thicker beams is useful because you can score and split the sticks to make damaged, rotten, or snapped beams. And the best thing about coffee stirring sticks is that you can pick them up for free from most café, restaurants etc. or from the floor outside! I also buy balsa wood sticks and sheets from hobby shops. Balsa wood is light in weight and soft, but it is actually a hardwood. That means that the grain is very tight and so is more realistic in scale than say pine which is a softwood and has a more open grain. But I will also simulate wood using plastic, either in sheet form, or for beams. I generally score the grain into the wood using a very sharp scalpel. Then using a wood colour as a base coat, I wet and dry several times using a mix of darker and lighter colours over the top... the darker colours being washes, the lighter colours dry brushed. Watch the videos, practice you 'wood effects' and you'll find that it's actually quite easy, but a very satisfying and enjoyable part of model-making. Good luck, Rearguards, Badder
  8. NEW

    I've not noticed any 'slowness', but then I have a terrible internet connection 90 percent of the time so even 24hrs delay would be nothing to me. And anyway, BM is worth the wait! 'Spite. It's a funny old thing. The spiteful will go a long way to prove just how unworthy they were of . being most graciously tolerated for a little while'. Ethel Danglegusset. Rearguards, Badder
  9. With the front half of the building having progressed to a satisfactory level, I'm now concentrating on the rear wall.... something I have been putting off because to be honest I wasn't happy with the upper section. It doesn't show up in the photographs previously posted, but the right hand section is a bit distorted between the window aperture and the corner stones. There's a distinct dip in the stonework and this affects the right top corner of the window surround as well. So, I've skimmed over the 'dippy' stonework and have built up the top right corner of the window surround as shown below. Whilst the 'skim' might look a bit scrappy, I deliberately made it deeper than required so the blemishes are not a problem and can be sanded out. Now I just have to re-carve the stonework and the brickwork. TFL Badder
  10. I wonder how much they paid Kermit to do the interview? lol
  11. I'm not sure about patience, but I can perform miracles. I once turned a finished Tamiya 1/35th Nashorn into a jumbled heap of broken parts. Badder
  12. More weathering on the building, Just some very subtle washes, but they all build up. I've painted the guttering and drainpipe, using Humbrol Dark Iron as the undercoat, blue over the top which was then scrubbed back, a dabbing with dilute dark earth weathering powder and rust. Earlier I stated that the 'wicket' door would get a scratch plate and a lock. But then I thought what idiot would bother putting a scratch plate on a 'barn' door? So, I just drilled a small hole and dry brushed the rim a brassy colour to make a keyhole. I've also added a tiny bit of rust to some of the hinges. TFL Badder... who's just added a Tamiya 1/35th King Tiger (production turret) to his stash.
  13. That's grand that is. May I make a couple of suggestions on the windows? Yes? Cool. You don't say what your problems were, but I'm guessing finding a suitable material, and getting it to stick to the frames? Well, I use the transparent plastic from food and product packaging. Margarine lids, vacuum packed toys, plastic-boxed living flowers, what ever.... You can search for the plastics which glue best for the glue you are using. Personally, I use medium CA to glue the 'glass' to other plastics and haven't had a problem yet. Gluing it to wood might be a bit more difficult due to the porosity of the wood, but all you have to do is spread CA onto the wood and let it soak in, and then, once dry, re-apply. This should seal the wood and form a layer of dried CA, which will then readily accept more CA. So, then you can glue the 'glass' in place. Failing that, you could always make your window frames with two identical frames, and a third with a larger 'hole'. So the idea is that the third 'frame' with the 'glass' inserted into the 'hole' is sandwiched between the other two. That way, you only need glue the frames together. The glass itself is held in place by the frames. And finally, yes, windows appear black if the room behind is not lit, but they don't appear matt black. Neither do they appear black from all angles, what with reflections etc. So I would go with the transparent plastic.. BUT, I suppose your windows COULD have been deliberately 'blacked out' with black paint, I THINK they might also have tape on them as well as a preventative measure against flying shards of glass during bomb blasts) ?? Just an idea. I am interested to see what your dio turns out like. Rearguards, Badder
  14. Superb job. I would like to see an aerial view of the Churchy though, and a close-up of the rear. Rearguards, Badder
  15. I agree! The MiniArt doors are stupidly tall. Unfortunately every MiniArt building I've seen uses the same doors. When I made the first building I lowered the height of the doorway. Of course, I couldn't cut the kit door to fit (it wouldn't look right) and decided not to scratch a new door.....but as it was a ruined building, that didn't matter. I could do without. With this second building, lowering the height of the doorway/door would have meant having to cut away the plastic 'arch', drop it down a couple of 'feet', fill the space with plaster and carve new stonework above the new 'arch'.... and I'd have had to scratch build a new door to fit. This was something I wasn't happy to do. So, a doorway for giants it is. But then again, maybe the farmer wears tall hats, or his wife has a Marjorie Simpson hair-do? Badder