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Badder last won the day on January 1

Badder had the most liked content!

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About Badder

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 28/03/65

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    Artist, musician (drummer) writer, fresh water angling, model-making, model-destroying.

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  1. I've continued 'growing the hedgerow' along the baton with another fishing line plant, some more Seafoam and static grass. Unfortunately the 'cow parsley' flowers have gone a bit grey (something all should be aware of if using CA with Woodland Scenics' Soft Flake Snow) However, I will touch them up with some white. Again, I've disguised the fixing points where bush 'trunks' meet the base by sprinkling Dil Tops and/or Basil over the wet CA. Low Energy Lightbulbs have flattened all the colours and tones in the photos below. There are greater differences when viewed in better light. BELOW.... Far right, just above the emerald green painted plaster... here you can see where I sprinkled Basil over the wet CA. TFL Badder
  2. I will be facing the same dilemma in the future as I too have a Tiger I and Tiger II in the stash. I have the Tamiya zimmerit 'decal' set for the Tiger I, but I haven't yet seen anyone else use it. (I expect they have, but I haven't actually searched the forum for it) So, seeing your putty method gives me some idea of the results I can expect if I try likewise. I'm not knowledgeable on the scale accuracy of zimmerit, but I'd say your 'spacing' looks about right to me. (When I get to that stage, I will count the columns across the front armour on a real Tiger to check the accuracy on that count) I'd say that your zimmerit looks more realistic that the PE stuff, with a nice bit of variation and 'bad' application here and there. The only area I'd personally not be happy with is at the rear of the hull where it gets a bit messy for my liking. I will question the lack of zimmerit on the glacis though. I seem to remember some argument over whether it was zimmerited or not, and that the final consensus was that it was. But my memory isn't what it once was. Overall though, I'd say you've done a good job, and I will have to try the putty method out myself. Rearguards, Badder
  3. First things first, I decided not to fix the hedgerow to the 'firewood', but to a length of machined wood instead. This machined baton will fit along the top rear edge of the firewood baton, forming a flat surface for the hedgerow to 'grow' along. But before fixing the clump to the baton, I decided to add some more plants around its base. I came up with the idea of making something akin to cow parsley, and for the two clumps of cow parsley I again used fishing line, only lightly singed at the ends, which I dunked in medium CA and then Woodland Scenics Soft Flake Snow. The results are okay, I think. These clumps of 'cow parsley' were then glued around the clump using medium CA sprinkled with Dil Tops. Another 'fishing line' plant was added to the rear. The clump was then fixed to the baton using PVA. Next I fixed a section of metal gauze along the rest of the baton. I screwed it down to hold it securely, then applied plaster of paris over the top. The gauze serves two purposes: to improve the bond strength between plaster and wood, and to act as the earth for further applications of static grass (I attach the crocodile clip to an exposed corner of the gauze) For the grass I will use Woodland Scenics Static Grass (light green) and Peco Scene Static Grass (straw) I made myself a static grass applicator last year, from an electrified bug-zapper - the tennis racket style one. For something costing less than 8 quid, including batteries, and taking only an hour or so to make, it was well worth it. The majority of the grass will be applied using this applicator, either for mass coverage, or in patches. As the first clump was already glued directly onto the baton it required that I made patches of grass to fit around it. Here I used a mix of both brands of grass, roughly 9/1 in favour of the Pico Scene grass Fascinating, the colour differences between the grass in the photo above and below... which are of the same grass and taken within seconds of each other. The patches were placed upon medium CA in the first instance so that I could position and then hold down the patches with a wooden stylus. Once set, I trickled thin CA around the edges allowing capillary action to secure the patches absolutely. Some more tufts of longer grass, and some scatter will finish off this particular clump for now. TFL Badder
  4. Ba-3 armored car

    Welcome to 'our' forum. A fantastic first entry. Excellent in every respect. A strange looking AFV indeed. That turret looks more suited to a tank of a much later date. Rearguards, Badder
  5. Quite superb. Lovely weathering, and nice colour/tonal variations. Those tracks look very good to me, but must be extremely fragile! Are they made up of individual links? Rearguards, Badder
  6. I sprayed dilute PVA over the undergrowth and sprinkled on more Dil Tops. The whole sub-assembly will get many coats of matt acrylic varnish. The whole hedgerow will be constructed from sub-assemblies representing various mixes of plants. I won't bother showing any more unless they are significantly different in construction. TFL Badder
  7. I forgot that I now have a stash of Seafoam. So, I will be using small pieces for the hedgerow. Here's some fitted behind the clump. As you can see from the first photo showing the rear side, I simply CA'd it into a groove in the base of the clump and sprinkled Dil Tops over the still-wet CA. I find that herbs act as a medium for the CA, helping it to cure quickly while increasing the area of bonding. The front. TFL Badder
  8. For size comparison, shown with an old abandoned figure. The clump is standing in the plastic base used for containing profiteroles, which I used to 'foliate' the undergrowth. CA was dribbled into one section and Dil Tops into the adjacent one. As one section became unusable due to cross contamination, I moved onto another. These profiterole bases are ideal for this. My diabetes might disagree though! TFL Badder
  9. In breaks between building an armature for a tree, I knocked together a clump of undergrowth. Earlier, I showed some undergrowth which I reclaimed from my now non-existent vignette 'The enemy at the gate'. I bunched this together and added another bunch made exactly the same way, using my fishing line method. I then dunked and mashed the new, larger, clump in medium CA and then in Dil Tops. Once dry (it all dries very quickly) I 'dry-brushed' the foliage with a medium green. Basil and Dil tops will cover most of the ground beneath the undergrowth. Below, two reclaimed clumps from the vignette, plus a new bunch of fishing line, CA'd at their base and clumped together. CA was dribbled over the join at the base and Basil was sprinkled over. The Basil not only provides ground cover but also acts with the CA to bond the three clumps together. And here's the new, larger, clump. Some more scatter will be applied and some more dry-brushing will follow. TFL Badder
  10. So, work starts on a length of hedgerow. The hedgerow will consist of two small trees, some bushes, lots of undergrowth and an area of earth 'undercut' with exposed tree roots. As stated above, I will be making the hedgerow in its entirety, only fixing it to the base when the ground is ready. I will be constructing the hedgerow on a baton of wood, as I did for the hedgerow in my diorama 'Lost in France'. For that diorama, I used 90 percent natural materials: twigs, silver birch seeds and seed dividers, herbs, and various dried plant parts. The other 10 percent was astroturf, to represent rushes. This time I will be using mostly manmade materials as they are longer lasting and can be made with an eye to realism in scale. I will however, be using the astroturf again. I will be going that one stage further though, shaping each and every leaf 'blade' carefully to get a more realistic effect. Not very exciting, but here's the baton of wood. This wood was retrieved from our woodshed and just so happens to be of the required shape and length. In the past I'd have been happy to use this wood 'as is' but as this is going to be my 'Grande Diorama' I've given it a blast in the microwave to kill off any woodworm/fungus. The wife didn't know what I'd put in there, but became concerned when the thing started making loud popping noises. 'It's nothing dear, just the resin in the wood!' Ahem. It was EXTREMELY dry wood. I suspect there may have been some woodworm or beetle pupae in there after all!!! Anyway... Holes will be drilled along the baton and these will accept the 'trunks' of trees and bushes. But first... the trees and bushes. I'm going to use my 'fishing line' method for both trees and bushes, adapting the construction to suit. I won't be using real twigs/branches this time as the smaller trees will require the kind of dainty yet strong armatures that natural twigs cannot provide. Instead, I will be constructing the tree armatures from wire, putty, the garden twine and possibly latex. TFL Badder
  11. I've read all of the Discworld histories and the tour guides, and I've studied the discological maps and have read their beliefs about the Multiverse, yes. Nowhere do they say that 'round' planets do not exist, whether they are supported on the backs of pachyderms and cetaceans or not. Rearguards, Badder Yea, as the turtle moves, an arrow can never strike it.
  12. I have to correct you. Almost no one, ever, has believed the Earth to be flat. The ancient Greeks, Egyptians and Romans certainly knew it was 'round'. The earliest inhabitants of the Pacific islands, far more ancient, were even more aware. Any sea-faring peoples couldn't help but notice that when a boat/ship/canoe 'sailed' out to sea it would disappear over the horizon gradually, not fall off some edge, and returning crews would report finding no edge to fall off, just further horizons, curving away 'forever'. I would say that there have NEVER been any SERIOUS believers in a flat Earth, but I'm afraid that isn't true. I've seen some videos of current 'believers' in the USA who insist that the Earth IS flat and all these photos of films of a round Earth viewed from space are either hoaxes, or 'illusions' created by 'curves in the space time continuum'. Sounds to me like they like listening to the album 'The Magic Teapot' by Gong. And on the subject of music.... I had to give up drumming due to progressive chronic nerve damage to my hands/feet/limbs which affected my muscle control/memory and timing, not to mention the pain, and numbness.... etc etc. Still, I had a good few years and even got to support Budgie twice, and play the 2nd gig on the drummer's kit, so I count myself lucky! I can understand why you might be tempted to buy a bass, because they are sexy, (so long as they are played on a long strap) and so easy to play! And I'm surprised your blunt old fingertips are any good for making models!!! Rearguards, Badder
  13. I'm still holding off starting on the ground, wanting to get some more scenery 'set pieces' done first. One thing I want to show is a length of hedgerow. I am not sure where it will go yet, but it will edge a farm track, with a bit of earth banking, exposed tree roots and dense and varied undergrowth. It may surprise some of you to read that I am going to make the hedgerow first and fit it later when the ground has been modelled. And I've decided to make another tree or two. They won't be as big as the last one, and will be much more open with regards to their foliage. I'm imagining something like ash trees, or silver birch. Again I may not try to replicate actual species, just portray 'characters'. We shall see. With the hedgerow, large tree, building and section of dry-stone wall completed, I can finally down the layout. Work on the hedgerow will commence tomorrow. Rearguards Badder
  14. Tiger I tracks. One side reversed??

    Yeah @ initial and handed. I was keeping it simple for any visiting 'aviation' people. Rearguards, Badder
  15. Tiger I tracks. One side reversed??

    Hi Jack, I've re-read the article and have sussed it out now. In the photo you show, the tracks are of the earlier type.... without the bolted-on 'ice cleats'. Nevertheless, if you removed the tracks from the left hand side, and turned them around 180 degrees, they would then fit on the right hand side without fouling the hull, and would have the overhang on the outside edge. However the pattern on the individual links will be facing the other way as well. In other words, those repeated 'A' shapes between the horizontal bars would be upside down on one set of tracks. So there would be a difference in the look of the tracks. When the 'ice cleats' were introduced they were bolted on to the existing 'bars' and were orientated to match between both set of tracks, so they would look the same on casual inspection. The inner 'A' shapes would still be inverted on one set though. The 'ice cleats' are the shiny zig-zag pattern on the horizontal bars in the photo below. Directly below each of them, in the recess are 'A' shapes. On the right hand set of tracks the ice cleats are pointing upwards as well, but the 'A' shapes in the recesses are not pointing upwards, they are upside down. So yes, although the tracks appear to be the same on both sides, they are not. One set is reversed, but the ice-cleats are fixed the same way on both sides. Please forgive the extremely dusty Tiger! Two years ago this was my first model for 35yrs and is pretty bad compared to what I can do nowadays. So it's been sitting in a dusty cupboard. Badder