Jump to content

Flying to the Limit. Blackburn Skua Mk.II Early-803 sq. H.M.S. Ark Royal


Recommended Posts

Seeing how great @Ray S's Stringbag looked in silver I had to toss in a Special Hobby Blackburn Skua Mk.II Early. I'll try to do it as it looked while assigned to 803 Sq. H.M.S. Ark Royal in 1939.

Let's see what I've gotsĀ  in the box, or bag as it were...

53151543208_a4e8f9c58e_c.jpg

53151479320_03139043db_c.jpg

53151543178_b818183c8e_c.jpg

53150470757_6edc4a70f0_c.jpg

53151479280_9c047b9f7b_c.jpg

53150470737_2d2c86d9fb_c.jpg

53151251069_6ed4fbf633_c.jpg

53151479250_a6a2c639c8_c.jpg

53150470742_5a5af3893f_c.jpg

Who knows If I manage to get this built I may just do the Blackburn Roc I have too... but before I get ahead of myself, I'll finish this first..

  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tough but rewarding kit. You can do a lot with it. The bomb bay shape on the kit is not perfect, I fixed mine with milliput. Mine benefitted from addition of plenty of bracing within the wing structure because the multi -part wing halves provided in the kit are not exactly engineered to stick together.

Ā 

I had a lot of fun with mine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you put the engine together keep dry fitting it into the cowling, which you need to have firmly taped together to ensure fit (especially when fitting the exhaust to the collector ring).

Ā 

The TAGs compartment should not have a floor (only found this out after I built my last Skua). Ā The TAG sat on a strop clipped to each side of the fuselage and had his feet in a stirrup like arrangement. Ā Similarly the fuel tanks are pretty much mounted on the inside of the bomb recess. Ā 
Ā 

As @mahavelonaĀ says above, lots of tabs and bracing to get the wigs to align and give them strength. Ā 
Ā 

The U/C doors also need attention to get them correct.

Ā 

Have you seen this reference - itā€™s very handy..


Ā 

https://dingeraviation.net/skuaroc/modelling_the_blackburn_skua.htm
Ā 

Good luck with your Skuaā€¦.

Ā 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Grey Beema said:

When you put the engine together keep dry fitting it into the cowling, which you need to have firmly taped together to ensure fit (especially when fitting the exhaust to the collector ring).

Ā 

The TAGs compartment should not have a floor (only found this out after I built my last Skua). Ā The TAG sat on a strop clipped to each side of the fuselage and had his feet in a stirrup like arrangement. Ā Similarly the fuel tanks are pretty much mounted on the inside of the bomb recess. Ā 
Ā 

As @mahavelonaĀ says above, lots of tabs and bracing to get the wigs to align and give them strength. Ā 
Ā 

The U/C doors also need attention to get them correct.

Ā 

Have you seen this reference - itā€™s very handy..


Ā 

https://dingeraviation.net/skuaroc/modelling_the_blackburn_skua.htm
Ā 

Good luck with your Skuaā€¦.

Ā 

Thanks I appreciate that. I know that since its a Special hobby kit it will take some "special care" while building and any info to assist is definitely welcome.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

After a few fits and starts finally getting some progress on the Skua.

Working on the interior. a nice coat of RAF interior green plus a dark wash bring everything out.

53172092523_510b7c62c7_c.jpg

I did use some Milliput to make a pad for the pilots seat

53171020027_c0e7966a53_c.jpg

So far that's the only modification I've done. The kit does come with with just about everything else.

53171806079_56a9ae8ce9_c.jpg

53171020032_0f3ab853e3_c.jpg

Ā 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did have a few issues with the fit of the wing joins to the fuselage, but thats normal for a Special hobby kit.

53172092518_a255d76eb2_c.jpg

I needed to fill a gap on the Port side wing-to-fuselage join with some thin catd.

53171020012_2487049b9a_c.jpg

A little bit of filler, then once that was dry, sand down with multiple grades of sand paper 220 down to 1000 to get as many scratches out as possible since this will beĀ  a nice silvery finish.

53172040695_6027c09fa1_c.jpg

The lower extremities needed more work but nothing really major.

53172040705_c70a1025e7_c.jpg

Then aĀ  coat of rattle can gloss black lacquer. I let this dry and cure for a few days because of heat and high humidity before beginning with the various aluminum shades.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While that's setting up, time to work in the engine.

53172040700_8e3ee5e487_c.jpg

As usual with SH kits, the powerplant is a multi-part resin affair. Separate crankcase and jugs. along with individual exhaust pies for the collector ring. The case I painted in a neutral gray and the jugs and exhaust pipes and ring first got a coat of gloss black the either Alclad II Stainless Steel for the jugs or a combination of Alclad II Burnt Iron then a misting of AK burnt metal. I did ream out the intake horns at the top of the engine. So far "knock on wood" this is coming together better than I expected.

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

Ā 

Okay! I admit it. I can be a bit anal-retentive on this subject.

Chris

Chris "overly retentive" say it ain't so.:coolio:Ā But then I wish model instructions and Restoration examples were just as "retentive" instead of being all over the place. So You just keep on quoting regulations. It keeps us on our toes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the home stretch with this one. But honestly most of the issues have been with the paint job rather than the kit itself, Though there have ben a few hiccups with the plastic.

53187672814_6c37321e1c_c.jpg

First a nice tidy shot of what I'd hoped would be the final paint job. It didn't end that way After the gloss black set and cured for a few days I gave a base coat of AK Polished Aluminum. So far I was really impressed. The instructions saidlet dry for 24 hrs and it can be weathered and masked. Thenn FLat aluminum for the control surfaces sine they were fabric covered. Cool! Should be a nice stable coat to work from. After I dutifully set it aside to cure I began using other shades of silver. mostly Alclad II Dark Aluminum, Duraluminum, Aluminum, Black Chrome and White Aluminum on various panels to break up the monotony. Then I painted the wingtips with Tamiya Red. So far so good....Then I began to notice fine residue of silver on my fingertips. Not from the Alclad, but from the AK paint.Ā  So I touched up some of the wear spots and let it dry for another day before painting the wing walkways on each side. and once again,, wear spots where ever I was holding the plane,. mostly amidships or along the leading and trailing edges So I just touched up with Alclad Aluminum on the wear spots and light misted everything else. So much for a nice polished look like on the box. but this at least is more stable. After that I added Engine and cowling, the canopies and landing gear.

53187805330_0f6393f0fe_c.jpg

53187609066_5e1c07c264_c.jpg

53187805310_cb658da6ac_c.jpg

Prop added

53187609026_7819c4a52b_c.jpg

53186890372_fa9b379f7c_c.jpg

53187609006_50dae6ffdd_c.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From there, the decals. these were very thin compared to some others I've worked with. They side off easy, but if you need to move or adjust any they break.Ā 

53187805295_e82111c73b_c.jpg

53187672779_c81a42fcfb_c.jpg

I applied some micro sol to snuggle them down nice and tight, but I'll have to touch up some of the blue stripes on the fuselage. And of course, ANOTHER wear mark! But I'll deal with that tomorrow. then finish adding the little bits and a touch of weatheing and that should be that. I hope. Stay tuned for the final episode.

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/15/2023 at 12:43 AM, John Masters said:

That looks super Loren. Ā Too bad about the wear marks, as if the paint hasn't cured or something? Ā Very strange. Ā 

It had cured ok, but I think it has more to do with the Aluminum powder in the paint. It's so finely ground for the shininess. Though it is tough compared to say Alclad II polished Aluminum and will accept kabuki tape without peeling it's still not toug

Ā 

h enough to being handled. and since its a "polished" look paint , a clear coat kills the reflectivity. I think for the future I may have to resort to foil if I want a "real" metal look.Ā Ā 

On 9/15/2023 at 3:42 AM, Ray S said:

That does look good from here, and very swish in silver

Ā 

Ray

Ā 

9 minutes ago, Mattp7999 said:

Looking excellent there Loren, like the early silver schemeĀ :goodjob:

Ā  Ā Many regards Matt

Thanks Guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And here we go for the finals

53194534368_cd77dd7e93_c.jpg

Getting the last of the small stuff attached and rigging the aerial wire.

53194534373_8dd9baf063_c.jpg

53194365880_c07b8c931a_c.jpg

53194534368_cd77dd7e93_c.jpg

53193976609_26c1822d94_c.jpg

53194534343_dccba308ba_c.jpg

I did make one addition to this build. The kit for whatever reason neglected to add any bombs( it does do dive bombing after all) so scrounged upĀ  100 kilo bomb from a Lancaster, that's not quite ready to be built. then a little bit of oily black around the engine cowling. ThereĀ  we are. one more addition completed, Ill have final images up in the Gallery shortly.Ā  Thanks everyone for following along and the suggestions andĀ  corrections along the way.. Now off to another build I still have 8 weeks to go, more or less.Ā :pilot:

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...