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Ray S

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About Ray S

  • Birthday 04/01/1916

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  • Location
    Forest of Dean, UK
  • Interests
    Ships mainly,

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  1. Yep, I agree, this is looking very good indeed! I still love the scheme you have chosen, the Alu and red show it off nicely! Ray
  2. @Casey and @IanC, Thanks both of you for the replies. I have been using Humbrol paints ever since I can remember (1967 at least) and have got used to them over time. The Authentics were my favourites, but the stuff we get at the moment I can still work with using the naphtha thinner, although I have found their consistency rather 'erratic'. I brush-paint mainly (rattle-can where needed), and I have found that acrylics are more fragile on the model than the enamels, so, when I handle the model it gets marked much more easily. I have tried the W&N Matt varnish, but did not realise they did a Satin one too, I will see if I can find some and give it a go, and try and be more careful when handling the model. Thanks both again for your advice. Ray
  3. Hello all, I run a Facebook Group for the Gloucester IPMS, and I have had a message from someone who lives in Worcester to see if there are any Model Clubs near to where he lives. Can anyone help out so I can give him a reply? I have found a Model Engineers Club, a Model Aero Club and a Model Boat Club, but nothing for plastic modellers. IPMS listed nothing for Worcestershire either. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ray
  4. Hello all, a little guidance is needed please. I have used Humbrol enamel varnishes ever since about 1970 and rarely had any issues with them, except my inability to use them properly! However, over the last few years I have learnt my lesson and had some cracking results from all three types of varnish that Humbrol produce in the enamel versions. My very old tin of Satin enamel began to go 'off', becoming very thick, but still produced an acceptable result after thinning with naphtha thinners. Then I went and treated myself to a new tin a couple of weeks ago. I prized the lid off, got out the stirring rod and proceeded to stir. Then I noticed something I had never seen with Humbrol varnish - the clear, treacle-coloured liquid went cloudy and grainy. Undeterred, I stirred and stirred (not until I was sick!) but the cloudiness did not clear. I was trying to complete a kit I had been working on for quite some time, and rather than trust this new Satin varnish on that, I tried it on a gash bit of an old kit. The varnish dried more matt that the Matt varnish ever had! When stirred for about 10 minutes, I still had this: Has anyone else had this problem? I had forgotten that I had already bought a tin recently, so I looked at that one and it is the same! Does anyone know if the formula has changed? In my experience in the past, the Satin and Gloss enamel varnishes always had the look of Golden Treacle, but a bit thinner, even when stirred and this is so different. Depending on the answers, I will contact Humbrol and ask their advice, but I wanted to do a bit of research first. Their acrylic Satin seems okay, but it is not as hard-wearing as the enamel. Thanks for reading this, Ray
  5. This is coming along very nicely, and an interesting double-build. I love both versions, in fact, the Lightning is my fave aircraft of all time, although another runs it pretty close. I am looking forward to seeing this in the final scheme, you can't have too many 74 Sqn Lightnings. Ray
  6. Thanks again for the comments! @Whofan, there is a 'sort of' yellow and blue scheme available: https://www.drawdecal.com/product-category/airline-livery/australia-pacific-airlines/transmaldivian/ But the Twin Otter in that is not painted in the wavy style, it was the closest I could find for you. Having built a number of these now, I have always tried to do an 'improvement' on each one, but different upgrades each time, my aim is sometime in the future is to incorporate all of them into one build and get something close to an 'ultimate' (for me, that is) Twin Otter. The really difficult thing would be - what scheme? There are so many. Ray
  7. Thanks for those very kind comments Rob. That aircraft looks very classy, and it has a long nose too - that might make fitting it to the resin cockpit upgrade a little easier as the long nose is in two halves, so it may be possible to add each half to the resin plug, then worry about filling the gap along the centre line. Those steps look the biz, and what a wonderful top view you had there, it shows the off-set blade aerial fittings to a tee, like in your link earlier. There will probably be other Twin Otters in the pipeline. Revell give a couple of great schemes in their kit, I still have a few left from the ModelCraft sheet which are colourful enough, and loads of others are available. And I still have not done one on skis. Thanks Jeff for that, very much appreciated! Ray
  8. Thanks Chris, the pie casing was a close run thing, and if I had tried to make the steps and their back-plates, I would have probably done it with Aluminium foil, a la pie case! Thanks /P. Yes, it does! The upgrade set is incredibly well worth while, and my hope in the future is to do a Twin Otter with all of the different improvements I have done on my kits. I know there is not end of schemes I would like to do! Ray
  9. Thanks for the views, comments and 'likes' to one and all. Ray
  10. What a wonderful Viscount that is. The scheme really sets it off. Cheers, Ray
  11. Hello all, here on this fine Forum, we are running an epic Group Build celebrating Matchbox models. There have been amazing builds shown on there, and this was my contribution, with the exception of the 'amazing' part. I used the Revell boxing of Matchbox's PK-127 Twin Otter. I have a bit of a love-affair with the DHC-6 Twin Otter, having flown in them numerous times, and have been patiently building them for quite a long time in the hope that my exertions would prompt someone like Airfix or Special Hobby to dip their toes in the water and give us a modern tooling of one. This time, I thought I would try AeroCraft's cockpit upgrade set. This comes as an upper and lower set of resin parts, along with a replacement bulkhead, and that means a major piece of surgery to the front of the fuselage. I had a reasonable result, but I think that the result in the hands of someone who was really good at repairing joins would be exceptional. I am very glad I used the part, it really makes a difference to how the Twin Otter looks, by correcting the lower profile of the front windscreen to give the characteristic downward sweep for the glazing. There is a thread to look at if you would like to see what went on during the build: This is what I ended up with: To see the difference with the windscreen, here is the upgraded one: And compared to an unmodified on from a previous build of mine, of a Yeti Airlines Twin Otter: And back to the Air Taxi again: The black and red parts of the paintwork were Humbrol enamels, brush-painted (three coats of Humbrol 60 Scarlet as undercoats and three of 220 Italian Red as topcoats), the white was Tamiya White Primer. Propellers were masked and painted rather than using the transfers, and the prop warning lines on the floats, and the cheatlines on the engine nacelles were again masked and painted rather than using the transfers. The scheme markings came from a ModelCraft sheet which was originally included in their re-issue if the Matchbox kit. I had a photograph of my own to act as a reference, and also as a reminder: Ideally, I would like to find a way of doing this as a diorama and give this model an appropriate setting. All in all I thoroughly enjoyed the build, especially as it was a type I had flown in on our honeymoon, although not this registration. Thanks for looking, Ray
  12. This is my second build for this GB, and my second Twin Otter. This time, it had some help from an AeroCraft cockpit upgrade which corrected the cockpit windscreen profile and gives the correct down-sweep of the lower edge of the glazing, and it makes a huge difference. The transfers came from a ModelCraft sheets. Paintwork was Tamiya White Primer for the white, brush-painted Humbrol 60 followed by Humbrol 220 Italian Red, and Humbrol 33 and 21 for the black. Glazing was courtesy of Humbrol Clearfix. The build log is here if anyone wants a look: Thanks for looking, and thanks to to @Rabbit Leader and @JOCKNEY for keeping us all in check and for hosting an absolutely fantastic Group Build! Ray
  13. Thanks Rob! Cheers again Chris. Well, I am calling this Maldivian Air Taxi complete now. Yesterday brought the build to a conclusion, and I only had five things left on my list of 'to do'. The props fitted the spinners fairly well, but they stood out from the cowlings just a touch. The aerial wire from the fin to the top of the fuselage was InfiniModels 0.091 rigging thread and responded well to CA. Some speaker core cable (silver coloured) was used for the three static discharge wicks on the end on the rudder. The cleats on the top of the front of the floats were painted red and, finally, I found a good image of a Twaxi with the foot treads on the passenger steps painted in a dark grey, so they were done too. This is what I have ended up with: The big thing (for me, anyway) on this build was the replacement of the cockpit section. Was it worth getting the AeroCraft resin upgrade? The answer for me is YES! but with one caveat. It needs someone who is well-skilled at blending in joints with this sort of 'plug', and I will be the first to admit my skill there is somewhat lacking. However, the front end of the Twin Otter now looks so much better than an unmodified one, like my Nepal Airlines one I did a few years ago: Compare and contrast: The steps were an important part of this, and I am glad I decided to overcome my hesitation and build them on too, even if I did not quite get them in the right position: Thanks to all of you who have dropped in and looked, 'liked' and commented, and especially to those who offered advice and encouragement just when it was needed! I will pop some photographs into the Gallery in a moment. All the best, Ray
  14. This afternoon's work has been 'interesting'. I decided to add the steps after all, it would not have looked right without them, but I have chosen to retain my sanity and only add the horizontal sections of the footplates. Firstly I cut some paper into strips so I could use that to work out how long the supports would be. My photo references showed that, width-wise, the steps were narrower than the doorway. Having guaged the support length I trimmed some 0.8mm plastic rod to length and popped the end that rests on the fuselage into some CA gel and left the other end dry. With more than a little trepidation, I attached the support to the fuselage, trying to counteract my shaking hands. It worked! Once the CA gel had grabbed slightly, I was able to swing the lower, dry, end into position, again going by my reference images for the appropriate angle, bearing in mind the float slopes downward so the steps were not vertical to the float, but were to the fuselage cheatline. The second support went in a bit more easily as I had a little more room away from the wing to work in. Thankfully there was a slight ridge where the dark grey walkway was, so that gave the supports something to rest against. Then the 'fun' bit - the steps. I was not sure how deep the steps were, but I judged that making them 3mm deep (equating to about an 8.5" tread) would be about right. Measuring the gap between the supports showed it was about 7.5mm wide, so I cut out a number of steps from some 10thou card, and had to trim each one slightly to get a friction-fit. I did the top and lower ones first and they worked well, but the middle one caused no end of problems and finally succeeded on my fifth attempt. The spares may be okay for the other side, but I will do that over the weekend, work permitting. I used Tamiya Extra Thin cement to get them to grab the supports which then allowed some adjustment for alignment, then some medium CA to hopefully lock them in place. Here is how the port-side steps turned out: I am happy with that, despite the fact that the steps have no backs to them. I need to find out if the treads were painted a dark grey, I think they were. I know the mains sections were white. That is it for today so thanks for looking, and I am very glad I changed my mind about the steps! Ray
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