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Ray S

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About Ray S

  • Rank
    Ray S
  • Birthday 01/04/1916

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Forest of Dean, UK
  • Interests
    Ships mainly,

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2,973 profile views
  1. Ray S

    Silver City Bristol Superfreighter

    Eyup lad, you were lucky, ah remember t'days when t'catalogue came out chiseled on slate lad! Ray theancientone
  2. Ray S

    seeking information

    Hello triggerrigger, Pop it into the Ready for Inspection area of the AFV Section. Look forward to seeing it! All the best, Ray
  3. Ray S

    AMP& MikroMir News, questions, wishes, and more ...

    I hope you can get these sorted, the Hastings is top of my wants list, and I know you have put quite a bit of work into it so far! Hope all goes well, Ray
  4. Ray S

    New Ship Related Releases

    Combrig have released about a dozen 1/700 resin destroyers from the 1893 - 1900 timescale. Hopefully the link will work: http://combrig-models.com/ The range is for : Havoc 1893 Spitfire 1895 Hornet 1893 Violet 1898 Hasty 1896 Zebra 1900 Ardent 1895 Hunter 1895 Albatross 1900 Decoy 1895 Hardy 1895 Foam 1896 Starling Models have a number of them listed as available now too! Cheers, Ray
  5. Ray S

    Trainers GB (finally legal!)

    Hello, can you add me to the list please? I have a number of aircraft that would be suitable for this GB. Many thanks, Ray
  6. That is a fabulous restoration Bob! It looks really good to me, but I know you are in a better position to judge the before and after. It is such a shame you feel like you do about your ship building, it has been a huge part of your life, hasn't it? The reasons are understandable though, and I really hope you can continue with this. As you say, only show them when finished, that should take a lot of pressure off of you. I would certainly like you to continue if you are happy with that, I know you have inspired me at least to try my hand at scratch-building, for which I thank you immensely. All the best, Ray
  7. Ray S

    Avro 504K, 1/32, Scratchbuild

    Steve, no I don't! I have had a reputation (thoroughly undeserved I must say) about being a rotten punster (at least, I think that is what they said). Sadly, I spent too much time working in a warehouse alone, and kept thinking of awful(ly good) puns. I promise I will not share any more! Ray
  8. Ray S

    Avro 504K, 1/32, Scratchbuild

    Is that why you were elected Prime-Minister? By the way, the work you are doing on this is excellent Mr Bandsaw! Ray
  9. Ray S

    Tug S.A. Everard

    Welcome to the wonderful world of scratchbuilding Stuart. You have made a great start and I am looking forward to watching it progress! It is a nice subject too! All the best, Ray
  10. Ray S

    Hannover CL111a

    What a great result! This was the first (and only) model where I have used lozenge decals, but I chickened out when it came to the fuselage, and painted it mauve/green. It was one of the Airfix Red Box issues, so a very late one, and I was amazed at the quality of the moulding. I still have a bagged one in the stash, so when Airfix: The Golden Years Pt 2 comes along, I will probably crack that one open. You have done a wonderful job with this, well done for finishing it so well. Ray
  11. Ray S

    Norfolk Wherry 'Gleaner'

    There has been a little more progress to the wherry. I have fitted the decking to the whole boat now. First, I needed to trim down the one-piece decking alongside the hold on both beams. That was fine, except the glue did not hold properly. I was using some sanding blocks and sanding up/down (trying to ensure that I did not ruin the hull 'planking'), when 'slap' went one of the deck boards. Oh, no! I thought to myself, and found one of them had partially parted company from the boat. Thankfully it was able to be re-glued. I had originally used Deluxe Materials Speed Bond 5-minute white glue to fit the plastic to the balsa (as recommended by my local model shop for exactly this use), but looking at the pack after this mishap, it did not say anything about bonding plastic (wood, foam, fabric, and paper but not plastic), so out came the gel CA and I repaired the work with that. I wonder if Glue'N'Glaze would have worked better - it seems to dry flexibly, whereas Speed Bond seemed to dry brittle. When it came to doing the individual planks at the bow and stern, I tried another tack (sorry!). I used two-part epoxy this time. I have always had a spot of bother using this stuff, never seeming to get it mixed properly and creating something of a mess, especially as the stuff 'strings' quite a bit. Anyway, I cut out 2mm widths of the same plastic card I used for the larger planks with my guillotine (the plans show the planks to be 1mm, but it would not cut that thin), trimmed plenty to length and smeared on the epoxy. The planks went down fairly well, but showed up any inaccuracies in the original sanding of the hull to shape. The epoxy set quite quickly and I was able to get about 6-7 strips down before I had to mix up another batch. I gave it a day or so to set properly, and then trimmed the excess with some side-cutters and sanded (carefully!) the edges and top surfaces. The whole lot still needs a bit more sanding to blend in plank heights, but I am getting there. After I had fitted the main side boards, I filled the gap between them and the hold walls with filler to give a relatively smooth transition, thinking that would be better than skinning yet again as I had originally planned. So far it all looks reasonably smooth, but primer later will show that I was mistaken, methinks. Here is where she is at the moment: There is still the plancea, bin iron, and sheerstrake (sounds like I know what I am on about, doesn't it!) to fit around the hull edges, and that lot will hide any irregularities along the hull/planking line, and give me headaches trying to make it all stick to the boat. So far I am thoroughly enjoying this project, it has been a challenge and I am learning something new with almost everything I do with it. Thanks for looking, Ray
  12. Hi all, I have just had a look in my stash, and it appears that I have a 1/100 'Le Soleil Royal' in there. I am not sure how I missed it. Probably explains why yesterday I got an invitation from Specsavers for an eye test! I think it might be asking a bit much to do this kit in 4 months though... Cheers, Ray Theunabletoseeamonsterbox
  13. Hello, please count me in too! I have a grand total of 0 Heller kits in stock, so I will have to have a shufty and see what I can get. There are plenty of 'odd-ball' types that would fit the bill for me! Here's hopin'! Ray
  14. Ray S

    Norfolk Wherry 'Gleaner'

    Cheers Rob, the main paint I use is Revell 382 Wood Brown acrylic. I used to be wary of it because it does not seem to be a solid colour paint, but it does produce some nice streaky (wood grain) effects as I found out when I did a vacform float plane in a GB recently (a Burgess-Dunne WW1 job), and since then I really love this paint. I am beginning to learn the 'two or three attempt' lark on this one, a few things have failed, and I hope I am learning as I go along! I promise that if I make the same boo-boo again, it will be documented - I try not to self-censor... Kev, I am not going to put this into a water setting, these boats were so often fully laden and the water lapped onto the deck at the lowest point of sheer (hence the saying that they were not fully laden unless a robin could drink off the deck), so there would not be too much to see above water. Unless I pinch your idea of a display box frame, and have the boat sat in a clear perspex 'river' or broad setting. Mmm... Seadog, this is a lesson I have been given numerous times, but it does not sink in. One day... Today, I have been trying to deal with the first stage of the deck planking. In 'Black-Sailed Traders', Roy Clark said that the deck was planked from bow to the fore part of the hold, and from the rear of the cabin to the stern, with the deck alongside the main hold and cabin being planked with a single piece of wood either side (this is contrary to the plans of Gleaner in the book). I CAREFULLY measured out the area for the side planks, and cut out a section of paper then trimmed it so it fitted along the slight curvature of the hold/cabin. Then tried it again, and again. Each time, it fitted pretty closely, so I taped the paper to some card, and cut out the shape. This was done over-sized so it overhung the deck, then I trimmed back more closely, double checked the fit and was happy. There are two problems with fitting this plank - camber, and sheer. I ran the plastic shape through my fingers to get some bend fore/aft for the sheer, then rolled it around a cylinder to get the camber, and tried the fit again, and was happy. Then I took about 10 minutes wondering whether to put the bead of PVA glue down, and was I thinking straight, before I committed. The glue went on, I smeared it thinner with a metal probe, let the glue go off for a couple of minutes and then placed the plank down, and lo and behold, it conformed to the shape well! There are a few small gaps along the hold edge, but a smear of filler will solve that later. Then I did the same for the other side. Both parts are now taped down, I have used a wet cotton bud to clean up the glue, and I hope it will all set okay for me now. It looks alright to me, and I put them on about an hour ago, and the PVA seems to be setting. Hopefully I will get some photographs of the result tomorrow, I do not want to tempt providence. Thanks for looking and the comments and encouragement, Ray
  15. Ray S

    MGB658 Scratch built

    Great work Kev, looking forward to seeing more! Ray