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Ray S

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About Ray S

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    Ray S
  • Birthday 04/01/1916

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  • Location
    Forest of Dean, UK
  • Interests
    Ships mainly,

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  1. Will do, I still intend to do it in Raspberry Ripple colours and will definitely post it when done! Thanks for being understanding, Ray
  2. Hello all! I am afraid this one is going to have to wait for a while to be done, other things have cropped up which need doing first. I am sorry about this! Ray
  3. It was 1957, and the Airfix Cutty Sark (and me) were unleashed unto the world. The inspiration for this build was a book called 'The Ice Schooner' by Michael Moorcock where the seas were frozen over and ships were on skis. I used the hull halves from the kit, the rest was scratch-built or from various photo-etch sets. Sails were made from layout paper. A build log is here if anyone wants a peep! It was a fun build while it lasted! All the best, Ray PS, I did use the four bits of the stand too at one stage to keep it upright...
  4. Hello all! There has been some slow progress on this project over the last few days. I was able to get the rest of the sails on, and some rudimentary 'rigging', but I have reached the limit of my abilities now, so I am calling the 'Ice Schooner' finished. At some future stage I may try to do the rigging properly, but as of now I am finding the tremors in my hands too great to successfully complete that part of the build. This is what she looks like at this time: The rigging for the jib sails was EZ-Line, but the little bits at the top of the masts was speaker-core cable gone over with a black Sharpie. Here she is against the obligatory pen: And finally an overhead shot to show that things were not too far off symmetrical and true(!): I have had great fun with this fantasy project. I had tried to do the same subject way back in the 1970's but lacked the skills then, and am happy with the way this has come out. I would like to say a big THANKS! to all who have contributed to the thread, either by commenting, liking, and reading, it has been greatly appreciated. I will pop a few more pictures into the Gallery shortly. All the best everyone, Ray
  5. Hello! I did wonder about adding SS Ohio, would she qualify for the GB? She was not in the RN or USN... Dug the kit out yesterday, and it looks really involved, it is the Niko kit. I am not sure my skills would be good enough for your suggestion! Cheers, Ray
  6. Hello Rob, You can count me in with this one. In addition to tons of injection-moulded ships (1/600, 1/700 and 1/350) I have 1/700 resin kits of: HMS Monmouth (WWI) HMS Good Hope (WWI) HMS Dreadnought (WWI) HMS Gloucester (WWI) HMS Ascot (WWI) SS Ohio (1942) This would give me a great excuse to get through one or two... All the best, Ray PS I would need to subscribe to Flickr (I am nearly up to my 'free' limit) or find another free image hosting site first though!
  7. Thanks Dave! I hope you have noticed there has not been an overhead photo... The time has now arrived for me to look at fitting the sails. I had wondered about fitting them prior to attaching the masts to the boat, but, after the rigmarole I had fitting the masts, I am glad I did not. However, the aftermath did show up some of my deficiencies. I found things difficult to handle - masts got in the way, my tremors in my hands seemed worse than normal, but I prevailed and did not give in! First though, I had to experiment. What was the best way to attach a sail to the brass rods? CA, I thought, so I used my practice sail, got out my non-shake 'helping hands' and give it a go: Three small dabs of CA Gel on the brass, a steady(ish) hand on the sail, bring 'em together and hey presto, one sail standing vertically on the jib! Wow, way to go! It was really easy, and worked like a dream. So, why would another sail NOT stick to the jib when I tried it for real? Four goes it took to get the sail on...I eventually laid the boat down on its side and used the upper jib to keep the sail in place for a few seconds, then reinforced the join with some thin CA as well. That worked, and soon afterwards had this: I had managed to stick the sails on with a bit too much over the top jib on the fore and mid masts, but got it right on the mizzen mast. Scissors soon rectified that issue. The fact that I had drawn them sightly over-sized helped too, as I was able to get them bowing outwards a bit, to give the impression of them billowing in the breeze. I have also now glued on the bowsprit, and now I will leave this all to set solid before I begin to look at adding the rest of the sails and (gosh!) the rigging. More soon with luck, thanks for looking and the likes, they are very much appreciated! All the best, Ray
  8. I agree with other comments, a truly fantastic build. In your last photograph especially, it looks just like the real thing! Don't say that - you might put others of us off! I know I for one would like to build one. I do have the Airfix 1/144 version, so may have to do that instead. Thanks for all the detailed information that you have unearthed, and for the great advice and tricks you have taken the time to show us. All the best, Ray
  9. Hello all! I have just finished another project, and have been able to come back to this conversion. I looked through my selection of photo-etch to see if I had any bits that could be used, and found some skylights, doors, railings and ladders which would do. The skylights and doors were 1/350 scale but do not look out of place, the ladders (vertical and inclined) and railings are 1/700. The railings are from an Eduard IJN set, but when they arrived I found they had individual stanchions as their deck location points, rather than the continuous rail that most other sets had. I had tried fitting them as intended on IJN ships, but, even using CA, I found they tended to fall off even if you only looked at them. Heaven help you if you want to pick up the model! Now, I just trim off the stanchions and make them into a one-space (one bar?) railing; at least I can put a decent amount of glue on to get them to stick... The Ice Schooner has now got a lick or two of paint on, and I went for a mainly black hull in the end. This ship was described as being made from fibreglass and whale bone, so I left the decks white (aka primer!), but I did add some colour using Humbrol 71 Light Oak for the cabin deckheads, and Revell Wood Brown for the hatches. Oh yes, three of the 1/350 doors were laid flat on the deck and they became deck hatches for the smaller cargo holds fore and aft. I used some gloss black to represent the glass in the skylights. I painted the skis Revell Iron, and their supports Revell Brass. Then it was time for the 62-year-old child in me to fit the masts! You would not believe it, but I must be like Airfix or Wingnut Wings because my manufacturing tolerances were virtually nil! I had fitted and refitted those masts goodness knows how many times and they went in like a dream, but, having sprayed them a couple of coats of primer and a couple of Light Sand, would they fit? Not on your Nelly, they wouldn't! A bit of sanding (below the deck-line on the masts) sorted that though, and a few smears of CA fixed them in place, and they did align okay in the end. Sorry about the quality of that last piccy, I hoped that not using flash would show it up a bit better, but even the image stabilisation did not help. Anyway, I remembered to have the booms all at a similar angle. I hope to get the sails on in the next week or so, more soon with luck! Thanks for looking, and all the best, Ray
  10. Moa, I hope you will forgive me waiting until page 27 to comment! I have been reading this project from the start, and am amazed at the way you have gone about this, not only the modelling, but the highly in-depth research you have gone through. I had the old Scale Aircraft Modelling article for this Contrail model from way back in the early 1980's, and it had always been my wish to have a go at it. Now I realize there is so much to do with it, I am even more minded to give one a crack if I can find one. Excellent work, and I have learnt a lot from your project. All the best, Ray
  11. Budgie did an album called 'Squawk', and had an interesting design on the cover: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squawk_(album) An interesting take on the SR-71 It also had some odd track titles (Budgie were renowned for that!) Cheers, Ray PS Bomber was a great album in my opinion too
  12. Ben Stokes has had the 'game of a lifetime' twice now in six weeks! But then, I think Jack Leach has too (92 as night-watchman last month and then this glorious 1 not out!). Sir Jack and Sir Ben soon methinks... Cheers, Ray PS I think the Aussies have unearthered a great talent with Labuchagne too.
  13. Hello all. I made another aft (mizzen) mast, this time with longer booms, then got to thinking about the now unrequired ex-mizzen mast. I had a thought (this is getting to be a habit!) and cut off the two booms, and soldered them together for them to become the bowsprit. Then I thought there was usually a sticky-down thing where the two parts join, so I then soldered in one of them too, and ended up (surprisingly) with this: Mmm, I was quite happy with that, because a) it looks like a bowsprit and b) it did not fall apart when adding the sticky-down bit. I went one better a little later and soldered another angled part to the back of the bowsprit as I had found it was not too secure when I added it to the forecastle deck, it was front-heavy and tended to fall off. I had used a small section of Contrail Rod for a support - I had cut off about 1mm, then sliced that into two vertically, and fitted one U section to the bow. Now, If I was capable of forward planning, I would have used new rod and cut it over-long and bent it to shape in the first place, this angled bit will now fit nicely into the hole I had drilled into the fo'c'sle and steadies the bowsprit. Here they are all dry-fitted: Now I started to think about the sails. I tried drawing 'stitching lines' onto plain paper, but despite using 4H pencils, the point blunted quickly and gave irregular lines, and my measuring was not too hot either. So I called upon my computer to help me out. I tried using MS Word to produce a grid without vertical lines, I tried using MS Paint but could not work that either, so I called upon the mercies of the BM massive for help. @thorfinn suggested ways to do the lines with Paint (that is still a work in progress), but in the meantime I had worked out a way in Word. I found out how to change the print size and set it to 2pt, created a table with one column (I did not know I could do that!) and then entered 300 rows. I had more than one page after that, but deleted all the rows on the second page. Then I found out that I could extend the rows to the edge of the page! I then did the same thing on page two, and when I printed them off onto one sheet of paper, I had nicely lined paper with very fine spacing, and it seemed to be well aligned front and back. It was suggested that I changed the lines to grey rather than black, but, at the moment, that is beyond me. This is what I had (along with a print of the image that is inspiring me for the sail plan): This was the setup before I had found that I could extend the lines to the paper edge. I now needed to colour the paper, so I tried a few ideas. Revell Acrylic Beige, Humbrol Acrylic Cream, Humbrol Enamel Wine Red (and a second thinned version), and finally, a wet tea bag! The thinned Wine Red looked good to me. There is history with sails being burgundy I am sure, so it is not improbable. The thinned paint went on very well, and allowed the 'stitching' to be visible, and it does not stand out like a sore thumb. Any way, armed with this new discovery, I laid the mizzen mast onto the lines (aligned in the same way as per the photo) and drew along the mast and booms to get the shape of the sail. I drew above the top boom and below the bottom boom to get a bit of extra sail, which hopefully will allow some 'billow'. In my reference image, there appeared to be some strengthening stitching on the back end of the sail, so I drew them in with the H4 pencil, then thinned some more Wine Red and painted this side: I then made the amazing discovery that painting thinned enamel onto paper allows the paint to dry very rapidly. It was dry in only a couple of minutes, so I turned the paper over and marked the extra stitching and painted that side too. A couple of minutes later, I was able to trim out the sail with a scalpel, and it does not look too bad. The sail also seems to take a curve if I pull it between thumb and finger, so that 'billow' may well be possible. This is only an experiment at the moment, but it certainly has potential. I used Layout paper, it seems a bit thinner than normal inkjet paper, but I will try that too as the inkjet paper may take the curvature a bit better. I have to say I am quite pleased at how this has come out so far, hope this good fortune continues. Thanks for looking, Ray Apologies if this is a duplicate post, I had trouble editing the previous one (if it is still there)!
  14. Deleted duplicated post due to edit function freezing! Technology, eh? Ray
  15. @thorfinn and @Murdo, the build is here if you are interested: It is a fantasy build, based on the small Cutty Sark starter kit, but inspired by the book 'The Ice Schooner' by Micheal Moorcock. In fact, I have only used the hull halves from the kit, everything else is scratch built (except for some photo etch!). I think I have cracked it for the sails now, I just need to work out how to get the grid lines in grey (I used 2pt print size, created a table with one column and three hundred rows, expanded the lines to the edge of the page and did the same on page 2, and got the printer to print the pages on each side of a bit of paper. They aligned quite well). All the best, and I hope you find it interesting! Ray
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