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Ray S

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About Ray S

  • Birthday 04/01/1916

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    Forest of Dean, UK
  • Interests
    Ships mainly,

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  1. While going through my stash the other day, I found I had an old (very old) Czech Master Resin DH.9A, so that is a couple I could enter now! All the best, Ray (who is already on the list)
  2. This is great work on another loco. The upgrades are very well worth doing, they make such a difference. I have made notes from some of your other posts and got a list of places to get upgrades, and, one day, I WILL start one, honest! All the best, Ray
  3. I gave this a miss yesterday as things more important cropped up, but today was a good day. The first thing I looked at correcting was the undercarriage. This is how it was moulded: In all my previous builds of the Pup, I left these as they are. This time though, I had all my reference material, and it was mentioned that the braces were wrong. I cut those bars off each leg and replaced them with a T-shaped assembly, which I made out of .5mm rod: The axle was next. Having looked at @Paul Thompson's link and description earlier, I came up with something which hopefully is a little better than the single rod which Airfix supplied. As Paul suggested, I got some aerofoil strut and sawed a slot on one surface. I then got some more .5mm rod and cut two very small slivers off and glued them to the ends of the strut. These acted as a rest for the split axle, which I made from more of the rod. I cut two sections, chamfered one end of each and stuck them in place: That looks okay to my untrained eye. The other thing I did was get the rest of the rigging between the wings done, and today I managed to get the final bits of the diamond transfers settled down on the top of the top wing, and the bottom of the lower wing. If I have learnt one thing with this build, it is that it would be a better idea to drill blind holes and try and fit the rigging into them, despite the access issues compared to having open holes. The repair work is not the best, even though I used a new razor blade to trim the thread, a little section still stayed and I could not get rid of it. (Or build EE Lightnings instead!) I still need to trim the transfers down properly, and then re-touch the paintwork where there is white showing through. Although these transfers are quite translucent, they are excellent when they do settle down, and show everything as regards surface details - I must be really careful with the prep! It is just the roundels to go now for the markings. The Blue Rider ones are too see-through to use with this. I had two sheets from the Airfix Pup, but they are slightly larger than the BR ones, and did not have the white outline required. Checking through my transfer tin, I found a set of Microscale WWI GB national markings which will do the job, and the white on those looks to be very dense, so I will try those tomorrow. That is it, thanks for looking, Ray
  4. Hello all! It was a 'trying'day today. Did my cunning plan work? Well, sort of. The struts were in position and very well aligned. I then trimmed off the 'bar' that Airfix had moulded and one of the struts fell out. That was a good start. I re-attached it, and reinforced the other struts with a little more CA, then attached the top wing. I used CA gel for this on the two front struts, it takes a little longer to set. I gave it a couple of minutes, then picked the model up to glue the rear struts and the wing and attached struts fell off. Being a modeller, I carried on regardless, reattached everything and this time I managed to get the struts and wing together, and they stayed that way. All in all, I think I reattached all four struts, so in hindsight I would say that the plan did not work. Next time, I will chose a scheme which can be painted and fit the struts and clean up the bar and slot. 'Ne comb de plume pas', as Del Boy says. I then fitted the cabane struts on the starboard side, this time I trimmed the struts off the bar and added them one by one. Next, I sorted out the rigging in that area, using the copper wire that I had CA'd to the thread to help push the thread through the pre-drilled holes, and taped them to the upper wing surface to keep the thread out of the way: The other two cabane struts went in okay, and I just needed to re-CA one of the rear interplane struts (a common issue - I had to do that four or five times). I was able to then get most of the rest of the rigging done, all except the four wires along the front of the wings. The cross-wires between the interplane struts tested my patience more than somewhat, I had a 70-minute session at the bench where I managed to fit a fat zero wires, everything I did went wrong. I stopped, made a cuppa tea and then went back, and they were fitted withing fifteen minutes, no problem. The cowling is on now too, it eventually went on pretty well. I have filled all but four of the rigging holes now with Perfect Plastic Putty, and will sort that out later. Tomorrow I will see if I can replicate the undercarriage the way Paul has shown in his link previously. That is it for now, thanks for looking, Ray
  5. This explains why Airfix suggested a black underwater section on some of their WWII destroyer paint guides. I, like many others, did mine red as that was what was 'right'. Thanks for all the work on this, I will like to get the Flyhawk Hood at some point, and she will look the part with the grey/black underwater section. All the best, Ray
  6. Thanks Stix! It is great fun, and I really appreciate the help I have been given concerning this too - you do not get that as a solitary modeller, and this Forum is great for that. I also find that Group Builds really help me to expand my skills. I have quite a big update today, most of it is about my technique for rigging, so I hope you do not mind, and again I apologise if I am teaching anyone to suck eggs! First though, having read one review of a Pup build and where they also used this Blue Rider transfer sheet, I found that the cowling had a superfluous part - namely the triangular part: The article in question is here if you would like a look: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2005/april/aviation/Pup.php I used a scriber to remove it, and now I have a bit more access to the inside so I may well try and thin down the openings a little. With the instructions from the Wingnut Wings version I have, I found the windscreen for the Trainer version was quite easy to replicate, so I added one: Sorry it is out of focus! It is also probably a bit thick, but I did not think thinner sheet would stand correctly. Anyway, now I got to starting to think about the rigging. This is the material I use: I got this from Jamie at Sovereign Hobbies, but sadly he does not import it any more. This next stuff is also my rigging friend: It is old loudspeaker cable. Once upon a time I used it to actually do the rigging, but I found it was difficult to get rid of the copper colour. Then I found some different cable (from a Panasonic surround sound system) which was a silvery colour, but it was more fragile and I was unable to pull it taut to straighten the stuff (rolling it under a steel rule discoloured it), which is easily done with this copper wire. Anyhow, I have found another use for it... CA'ing the copper wire to the rigging thread helps with putting the thread through the pre-drilled rigging holes in biplane wings! I tend to cut the copper wire over-long, then roll it under a steel rule to straighten it, then dip the end of the wire in CA, then attach it to the end of the pre-cut thread, and finally re-inforce the glue with another dab of CA which I add with a bit of fishing line held in self-closing tweezers. Once set, I then trim the copper wire to a slightly shorter length. In this instance, I needed six wires for the area on the Pup just above the fuselage for the cabane strut rigging as they will be the least accessible. I then popped a hint of CA into the rigging location holes with that fishing line, and attached the wires holding each wire in place for about 10 seconds for the CA to bite: Having the rigging lines over-long will also help when it comes to threading them through the wings later. Now, the struts. I mentioned the other day that I had a cunning plan. this is it - Despite having filled the slots in the underside of the top wing, I kept the bars on the strut parts intact. I felt (right or wrong, I will find out in a day or two!) that having the bar would assist their alignment, and the intention is to trim off the bar when the CA I used to attach them has cured fully. I hope it will work. Top wing is just placed on the bars: Don't look too closely at it Pup's tummy, will you? Well that is it for today, it has been another good day with this model.Thanks for looking and for the views, comments and likes. Ray
  7. Yes, it was a brilliant GB. Well done to ALL who entered the group, the builds were all very inspiring. Roll on the next one! Ray
  8. Ah, brilliant! I see what you mean now, thanks immensely for that! Ray
  9. Paul, come back! I am always happy for your suggestions, they help me out no end, even if I may go about them in a slightly different way. My plan was to glue this in between the undercarriage legs and then add a couple of bars fore and aft - is that basically what you suggested but different terminology? Cheers, Ray PS, I do intend to add the T brace and remove the bar Airfix moulded.
  10. @Alex Gordon, thanks for that! The way the markings are behaving is excellent, I just wish they were less see-through! I had to do some repair work along the edges of the wings and tail surfaces where I had not aligned the transfers properly, and Revell 52 for the Blue, Humbrol 60 for the Red produced a fairly good match. Before: After: That went better than I was expecting! Since that was done, I have drilled out the strut location holes and cleared them of paint and transfer film. I have a plan for the struts, and will show what I do in another post, whether it works or not. The wheel tyres have had a couple of coats of Humbrol 127 US Ghost Grey, as a representation of the light grey the tyres were back then. Again the photographs helped me see areas which needed some slight re-touching, and that has been done. Wingnut Wings, in their guide, suggested Humbrol 66, which is an Olive Drab, which did not seem right to me. Airfix supplied a single, straight, bar for the undercarriage spreader bar, but it is not quite right. It really consisted of three parts, the middle one bent under the weight of the aircraft when on the ground. I did wonder whether to do anything about that or not, but have produced two middle bars now, one from plastic rod, one from brass rod: They are pretty much the same thickness as the Airfix part, so they may be over-scale. I will work on the other two, straight, bars another day. I have actually done some gluing today too, the engine is fitted: The raised lip on the firewall area needed a lot of sanding to get the two-part cowling to fit, and that is where I did some more gluing - as I pressed the assembled cowling onto the fuselage, the cowling came apart! I said, in my most quiet voice 'Oops!' and then had a fun ten to twenty minutes sanding, filing and motor-tool grinding the cowling lip and the firewall ledge to get it to fit, and, despite the motor tool slipping a few times, retained the paint finish. Phew! Here is the Pup with the cowling dry-fitted: The breather tubes are in now too, 0.8mm external, 0.4mm internal diameter brass tube. They just fit, and were quite difficult to get in, and almost impossible to glue! Every time I applied some glue, then tried to pick up the tube with my tweezers, the part would ping out to the carpet monster. Anyway, I eventually push-fitted them (sometimes too well and needed to shake them back out!) and then added some thin CA from the outside. I have accidentally push one in since but refitted a replacement. That is it for now, hopefully I will be able to deal with the struts tomorrow. Thanks for looking, Ray
  11. This is a very nice subject. I made quite a few of those old KP kits back in the 1980's and was very pleased with both the manufacturer and their subjects. Ray
  12. The weather has cooled down now, so it was much more comfortable at the bench today. The first thing I did today was get the engine painted, and it scrubs up fairly well too The wheels have had their first coat of red on the outside of the hubs: And finally, the tailplanes have been fitted: It is at times like this that I am very happy that I post these updates fairly soon after doing the work, because, as you can see, something was a bit askew! It all looked fine with the Mk1 eyeball but the big magnification on the screen showed what! Thankfully, the glue had not set, so a bit of a twist later I had: I am happier with that. I have also drilled more rigging holes, and added one more transfer to the vertical tail surface (on the other side this time), one more to go. I am nearing the dreaded stage where fitting the cabane/interplane struts is done. Thanks for looking, Ray
  13. That is an excellent result, and will need a large-ish cabinet, shelf or storage box! All the best, Ray
  14. This could have gone into French Fancy II, Anything But Injection or High Wing! I still have another parasol aircraft, so watch that space (maybe!) - it is the Eduard Fokker EV, and it is on my list of GB's I am doing along with their prospective subjects, and I have followed that reasonably well. Ray
  15. What a lovely finish that is. Having recently done one of these it is nice to see another completed and also confirming the quality of the fit! Ray
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