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Ray S

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About Ray S

  • Birthday 04/01/1916

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    Forest of Dean, UK
  • Interests
    Ships mainly,

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  1. Cheers Chris. I feel very lucky indeed to have been asked to build it. @Patrik, thanks for the link, and your input in the Interwar section too. I did not get much time for this today, but did get the framework painted inside. The guide suggested Interior Grey Green, so that is what I went with: It was only afterwards that I found I had painted too much primer at the front end, as the guide suggested that at the extreme front the section inside the framework was IGG too, so I have corrected that. If this build was for myself, I would have left it. I am not sure how much would be seen in the end as there will be a control panel and seat in the way. I felt happier once I had done it though. While I was painting the missing IGG, I got the rest of the parts that needed it done too while they were still on the runners. I know this is short and sweet today, but thanks for dropping in. Ray
  2. @Patrik, this is coming along very well, such lovely crisp moulding. I am amazed at the detail in this kit and, like you, was delighted with the wing/fuselage fit. I will keep dropping in to see how things go, and thanks for popping the link into my Vildebeest thread! Ray
  3. Okay, back again. The first thing I needed to do was a bit of prep work. The kit is quite nicely moulded, but this copy does have one or two little issues, but this is modelling, so should not be too difficult to sort out. The first problem is one I did not see for a day or two but then became very obvious: Right behind that circle on the inside of the nose is an ejection pin! I checked out the rest of both halves of the fuselage, and there were five more marks like that, each one over a pin. Looks like a little cleaning up will be needed. I remember the fuss (justifiable) with the first issue of the Airfix Swift, thankfully this is not so bad. Secondly, some location holes were not quite what I would call right: In this case, the location holes for the pilot seat framework is okay, on the other, well, not quite. This also carried over to the wings, one side was okay, the other had dimples rather than holes. A footstep up to the rear gunners cockpit is the same, one is nicely recessed, the other stands proud. All minor things mind, so I am still happy with this but something to watch out for. Getting onto modelling now, having read the SAMI article, I did not fall into the trap of not drilling out a window on the starboard upper front: I could have easily missed that in the instructions, it is mentioned as clear as day, but I have history in that department. It allowed light to get to the instrument panel in real life. One thing that came up in a number of reviews and builds (but not in the SAMI magazine article) was that the rear gunner station was incorrect for this mark of Vildebeest. The kit manufacturer supplied a WWI-era Scarff mount for the gun, rather than the type on the Swordfish (and others) which I think was called the Fairey High-Speed gun mount. It involved a different shape to the station opening, and a different way of mounting the gun. The Scarff mount was okay for MkI and II Vildebeests, but the later ones did not have it. Getting images of the proper area online was difficult, but @Patrik had a thread going a while ago which helped out: There are some great photographs in there, and what a result Patrik produced too. From that, I marked out the area which looked right to cut out: I scribed around the area and then went to it with drill, saw and file: I then thinned down the sills aft to get them a little better (the kit plastic is quite thick) but I think I still need to clean up the cuts a bit more. Having done all that, I cracked out the paint and started the interior painting process. I usually brush paint, so I thinned some Humbrol 113 Rust for the red primer, and Humbrol 78 for the Interior Grey Green with ColourCoats' Naphtha Thinners. I was unsure about the rust colour, but it seems to be the rough colour used in most builds/reviews I have seen. Airfix, in their Swordfish kit, suggested 61 Flesh which seems to be because the primer was put on outside and that shade was what was visible inside. Anyway, the first coats are on, and they will have a second, while the framework will get Interior Grey Green later on. The Humbrol paints work really well with the naphtha thinner, it dries quickly and can be touched within an hour or so, and I have been able to successfully overpaint after a couple of hours as long as I do not brush too often at the time. I have also followed other builder's suggestions about using Krystal Klear for the small fuselage windows, so I have fitted a frame bar in the larger port side window. I am sure I will work out how to mask the windows before I rattlecan spray the silver/aluminium main colour. Anyway, that is where I am at at the moment, please feel free to give advice and guidance if it looks as though I am going to make an error. This is an important build for someone else, and I would like to do as good a job as I am capable of. Thanks for dropping in, Ray
  4. Hello all. Sometimes in this world, something happens which makes you feel very lucky and privileged indeed. Last Sunday, I was at an outing with my model club, when one of our members asked a colleague if he knew anyone who would like to build this - and produced the 1/72 Special Hobby Vickers Vildebeest MkIII. My colleague took one look at the box, and unerringly pointed in my direction, straight between my eyes! 'HIM!' he said. I had a look in the box, but I was already hooked! I had wanted to build one ever since I heard about the fact that Azur-Frrom had produced an injection-moulded one (I had toyed with the Contrail vacform idea but never got one). I first heard about it in a copy of SAMI from August 2011, and I still have the copy waiting for a re-read (which has now been done). Well, I had a natter with our club member (Paul) and found out that a friend of his wanted him to build it but it was not his speciality, so that is why he asked around. I hope to do a good job with this (Paul and his friend have said it is okay for me to do a WIP on here). This is the boxing I have been given: It contains a supply of nice injection moulded parts: And some photo-etch and resin: A good transfer sheet with an amended #13 transfer - the original was too big (a carry over from the Azur-Frrom issue): And this is the markings I have been asked to do: Paul's friend's father (if I remember correctly) flew these in Singapore in the silver finish. I am glad about that as my head still hurts after reading about three threads on camouflaged Vildebeests! I popped a request for help in the 'Interwar' section in this Aviation Forum, and have been given some guidance and also some images which will help me out, including the fact that it does not seem to be an overall silver, but has some areas of Cerrux Grey, ala silver-doped Swordfish. I am looking forward to this, but with a little trepidation as it is for such an important reason! More in a mo, Ray
  5. Chris, thanks for that! I tried the IWM site earlier today, but I could not get it to produce any photographs, it must have been something I was doing wrong! There are some fabulous images there for me to look at. Thanks again, Ray
  6. @Graham Boak and @mhaselden, thank you both for those replies, it really settles my mind on that. That photograph is the best version of it that I have seen so thanks for that one too. I am glad I have been asked to do the silver scheme, having read a couple (or three) long topics here on BM I am happy not to be doing a camo one! All the best, Ray
  7. Hello all. Ever since 2011 or thereabouts (when an injection-moulded kit became available) I have wanted to build the Vickers Vildebeest, and at the weekend I was asked to build one for a friend's friend whose father flew them in Singapore. The one they wanted me to do was this one from 1936: It is from this Special Hobby boxing: I have seen the in-depth discussion on this fine Forum about the camouflaged Vildebeests from Singapore, but am unsure about the silver schemed set up. I have seen also the images on this site: https://www.rafseletar.info/Vickers Vildebeest/Vickers Vildebeest.html And one of the photographs shows a distinct variation in the finish (the photo of the single Vildebeest flying over the coastline/dockyard area). Would I be right in thinking that, like the silver-doped Fairey Swordfish, some of that would have been Cerrux grey? I have started to draw up (metaphorically) plans for adjusting the rear cockpit to cater for the different gun mount, and have taken inspiration from some builds on here for that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ray
  8. I think my problem was that I wanted to be involved in 7 GB's this year, and the last started in August. I did double builds in three of them, and a big vacform in another, and felt burnt out so I opted out of the final two. My learning lesson is to vote in the ones I would like to do, but only enter if they are spread out well for me. That of course is my own problem. Ultimately I am happy to go in line with the majority, and I thoroughly enjoyed those I did participate in. Ray
  9. Cheers beefy! I thought today would be a good time to try to fit those machine guns, so I hopped to it with a will, and a couple of crossed fingers! I was able to trim the parts off the pour block without losing or breaking any of the parts, which was a good start. I used some fishing line as my CA gel applicator and popped a tiny drop of the stuff into place, and very carefully (after using a brace to hold my hand steady), I was able to place each pedestal into the correct place. Initially I tried using my fine-pointed tweezers but I could not get the pedestals in place properly, so I had a ponder, and used an old trick I use for small photoetch - namely a sharp, damp wooden cocktail stick. I was able to touch the damp end to the spike on the pedestal, and it stuck to the stick long enough for me to place the parts in place. Step one done, nothing lost! Yippee! Then it was time to try and get the barrel onto the tiny pin on top of the pedestal. I tried using the fine-pointed tweezers again and this time had much more success, and all four barrels went into place on the spikes well. What was I concerned about? I also fitted the first funnel cap. It needed a number of 'spider legs' bending so it sat on them, and I used an old broken scalpel blade as my bending tool this time, and a good blade to bend them vertical. I used PVA to initially tack it into place, before locking it with thin CA. This is coming along nicely at the moment, albeit slowly. That is it for today, thanks for looking as ever. Ray
  10. My intention today was to start getting the funnels rigged, then I remembered I still needed to give them a second coat of paint, and some more etch needed adding too, so I put that on hold. Instead, I added the two remaining 4" guns abeam: The resin barrels did not break this time, so that was a result. I also found hidden in the instructions two ledges just aft of the breakwater which were on the etch sheet, so they were added: There will be a couple of booms near to those platforms which I will need to scratch build. The second funnel had a platform half way up, that was etch so it too was added. I think this has been through the wars a little, as the ladder is slightly bent: I hesitated at the next step, which is a set of four machine guns which will go on a couple of the deckhouses. You can probably see my problem in this picture: Somehow I am required to fit the pedestals and then fit the barrel on top of that pointy thing sticking up from each pedestal! I am sure I will work it out. Anyway, that is it, thanks for looking, Ray
  11. Thanks for all the responses, what a great range of favourites there are. As many of you have popped lists on, I will add to my original one choice (the Brittas Empire) and add a couple of others I have enjoyed over the years, in no particular order: Sledge Hammer with David Rasche - would that ever get made nowadays? Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy (BBC TV series) The Sky at Night Life on Mars That will do for now. Ray
  12. Thanks Kev! Today I decided I would start getting the funnels on. My plan is to put a couple on and then rig them, and then do the other two. One forum has a number of images of a builder's model in a museum, so I have downloaded a lot of those pictures to use as a guide. They involve HMS Gloucester and HMS Glasgow, and here is the link (scroll down a few posts): http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=148393 The funnels for this Combrig HMS Gloucester are nicely hollowed out at the top and give the impression of depth. The funnels are raked (just like the masts), and taking that into consideration, I was very careful to make sure I aligned the first one correctly fore and aft. The CA gel had had plenty of time to set on the first one, so I made the steam pipe for the back side of the funnel and attached it. It was at this point I noticed that I had abjectly failed in my alignment, as the funnel cap had a jaunty angle of 45 degrees from fore/aft, and the funnel had to come off. In doing so, I also managed to remove the bridge platform when the CA on the funnel finally gave it it's grip and my hand recoiled into the platform. I managed to say 'Oops' or something similar, then fitted the funnel properly this time, and took advantage of this happy circumstance to paint the four (not two as I mentioned previously!) cabin windows in the small deckhouse under the platform (out of every bad thing something good comes): I had a bit of repairing on the etch platform supports to do, but nothing catastrophic, thank goodness. Anyway, this time I learnt, and for the other three funnels I checked really carefully and marked on the funnel caps the fore/aft position. How careful I was, I will find out over the next few days! The second funnel went on well, and I got into a better groove when adding the fore and aft steam pipes on this one. The two funnels have had their first coat of Colourcoats GW02 WWI Grey, but will get another tomorrow. The second funnel also needs three extra etch pieces adding which I thought would be better done when it was attached to the ship. They all also need funnel gratings popped over the opening, but they will go on when I have painted the cap and interior black. That is it for today, thanks for looking, the comments and the 'likes'. Cheers, Ray
  13. Okay, I heard the call! I will sign up. I will have something in the stash. By the way, is there an upper limit to 'kid' age? I am a 1957 product, so I will choose something that was around before 1975 when I turned 18, and it will probably be Airfix, as that was what it was all about for me. And there are still lots to choose from. But I may decide on something from the other model firms. I was indecisive then, I think I am better now. Ray
  14. It was time today to re-visit a job I had done a week or so ago (maybe longer) - the masts. I felt the original was too tall, and I did not get the overlaps of the three verticals quite right. I was also concerned as to how to fit the spotting top on the foremast. As to that issue, I played with the original mast and a scrap of plastic this morning, and I found that if I used a certain size drill (the 4th smallest in my box of bits), and used a scalpel to increase the fore/aft hole, I could slide the plastic up to where the lower and mid uprights overlap, which is where the spotting top would be. That meant I could solder a new mast completely without having to put any resin parts on one of the brass rods during the solder process, and possibly melt them. I decided to try Longshanks' suggestion of taping the yards into place, then soldering them to the upright which would rest and be taped onto the yards. I drew a diagram as to what goes where: The extra little marks were indicating the extent of the uprights, and also where the overlap area would be. As you can tell, one yard is where there was an overlap, which could prove interesting when I join the two uprights together - would that join melt? Anyway, a while later after dealing with those and then setting up against another diagram for the complete mast, I had this: I used solder paint and flux, and it seemed to do quite a good job. Unfortunately, the upper upright was slightly out of true fore/aft, so I decided to redo it, but do two this time simultaneously. This time I reverted to my original way of setting the masts up. I taped them to a ceramic tile as tight as I could, and zapped them with the soldering iron. They came out fine this time, straight and true. Then I used blue tack to hold the yards in place and tape for the uprights: I set both up and got them soldered. One mast worked, the other did not, as two of the yards fell off when I got them away from the tack on one of the masts. So I kept the one I did first today and will use the best of these two, which means these: Then a quick dry fit into The Mighty G to see how she looks: I am happy! The masts do have quite a rake to them, they are at 80 degrees rather than vertical, that makes this ship look quite sleek. Hopefully I can get them sprayed with primer tomorrow. They will not be added yet, so I will start getting the funnels (all four) on soon and start getting some rigging to the funnels on too. That is it for now, thanks for looking, Ray
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