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LorenSharp

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LorenSharp last won the day on September 24

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About LorenSharp

  • Birthday 02/03/1957

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    Male
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    North Western Virginia,United States
  • Interests
    1/48 Scale Model Aircraft, History

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  1. Aye, One more of Us. one less of Them.... to quote Billy Connolly
  2. Thanks Erwin, Glad you like it. I just try to fumble along and do the best I can. With luck ,at the end of the day, it all ends up looking like it should.
  3. No worries. Erwin, Glad you asked. I originally had painted the nose well Yellow zinc with the intention of doing main gear the same way, but fond later information that they were aluminum For the most part. Some gear were painted yellow zinc, some bare aluminum, and some painted matte silver. It would have been nice to get accurate pictures of wells and bay of the Bell Mothership. but there are very few showing anything. Even the Restored Flying B-29's Doc and Fifi are different. Doc is bare metal, Fifi, green chromate., The B-29 at the Airforce museum is a mixture of 2 different colours green. The Enola Gay at the Smithsonian is like Doc and bare metal. The bomb/drop bay were as you mentioned bare metal, the communication tube(Crawl tube) and the main spar in the center were yellow chromate at least from what I can find and verify with a colour picture. I 'found one reference to the pressure doors leading out to the bay were bronze interior green on both sides but I don't know if that was common across the board. Finding decent accurate color mages have been harder to find than I realized. Especially for the drop ship. A lot of the refences I've used for it have been from previous online builds. I can only hope it's somewhat accurate.
  4. Not to worry, with the weight already on the plane, I'm cautious since the gear is plastic. So I hold onto the nose wheels when pulling the plane up.
  5. I did attach the landing gear. Bad news as I feared it is a tail sitter. Good news though the thin metal plate( a single edge razor blade) not only worked, the magnets in the nose gear were strong enough that it takes some effort to move the airplane. I'm not too enthused with how the nose glass looks. I have a Squadron vac set for emergencies like this so I'll remove the old and replace with something better. I hope. At least I'll be cable to go and clean the inside perspex of all the accumulated dust. Then I went and finished up painting the wave pattern on the undersides. Though not a lot on the build, it is the biggest part aside from the construction. Tomorrow I start on finishing up the drop bay, The anti-sway bars, the latching mounts and the service elevator. 12 days to go to the finish and from the looks of it I should be done in plenty of time (Geeze, where have I heard THAT before)
  6. After several days some of which trying to get over a nasty chest cold. I've got all the foiling done. Or as Snidley Whiplash would say.... Curses.... Foiled again. I had painted the Magnesium areas of the wing before I started foiling. Once I got the wings finished I didn't like the look. so I had some extra matte foil and just went ahead and foiled those sections as well. As with the front end O cut foil to cover the individual panels. This way I could cut pieces along the "grain" or against the "grain" to give a more organic look to the metal. same with using fine steel wool. gently swiping it across with or against the grain at random intervals.
  7. Not a bad Idea John. I thought of something similar with very thin card stock. But as it is it's not all that noticeable. Not perfect, but better than my previous attempts. Although for the future I think I'll print out new bulkhead pieces to graft in.
  8. I use 3M Acryl-white auto body glazing putty. It dries fairly fast, sands down real well and will feather out to a fine degree. It's pricey but a 400g tube will last me a couple of years.
  9. A Happy Birthday to you both then!
  10. The wheel wells though are a little sparse. Since there doesn't seem to be any images online or in my reference material of the wells, I used some artistic license to busy it up some. I used some thread to simulate wiring and hydraulics. I may go back and add some more. so we'll see. Had I thought about it earlier I would have opened up one of the engine bays and tossed a P&W R-2000 engine in, but again that would have been a case of doing ALOT of artistic licensing. But this path I'm on is sufficient for now. Not just a matter to slapping the top and bottom together and like on my other build protecting the plastic detail as much as possible with masking tape along the seams. Now that the seams are filled this will dry for a day then I can sand these down and see where I'm at. So far it's been a walk in the park. I probably just jinxed myself with that statement.
  11. I was expecting a much more complicated build but this is a rather simple designed kit. The cockpit is detailed just enough to look "busy" with out going overboard. Which is good because you can't see a whole lot. A coat of bronze green with a silver pencil to pick out the highlights. and I used the kit supplied decal for the instrument panel. I did have to use some setting solution to get it to snuggle down properly.
  12. Now its just a matter of filling in all the seams. This will dry overnight then I'll sand down and probably have to re-apply in spots. But all things considered "knock on wood" it's coming together better than I expected. then I'ss see what kinds of extra detail I can add to improve the look.
  13. The tail is one of those "quirks". no locating pins. so I carefully used a micro bit to drill corresponding holes in the tail fin and the fuselage to hold the tail securely in place. Then I used a thin piece of brass rod to hold everything securely in place.
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