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Micro Sol does not soften the decals


Cromm Cruac

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Guys, I have a problem with Micro Sol application. It simply does nothing to the decals. I'm applying the decals according to all instructions (coat of Klear > wet in warm water > brush micro set > slide off > position > press > apply micro sol) but Micro Sol does not conform the decals to the model (e.g. panel lines). In fact it does nothing at all, just dries out leaving the decal flat as it was. Decals are never wrinkled after applying Sol like on the video tutorials and remain untouched. I've applied it couple of times on the same decal but no luck - decal is still flat.

What I'm doing wrong?

Edited by Cromm Cruac
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What make of decal is it? Some decals can be pretty thick and if this is the case something stronger will be needed to 'melt' them into place. I have found that Airfix decals can be quite heavy and need a number of applications of Micro sol to settle them down. Thin decals on the other hand will usually bed down first go and very fine ones you need to avoid using Micro sol at all as they will disintegrate. I would suggest something like Daco 'Strong version' as this is more powerful than Micro sol

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If it's really bad, try using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. (Try this on an inconspicuous part first!) As long as it doesn't discolour the paint, it's very good for softening the decals and eliminating silvering.

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The decals I have problem now are from Academy and yes, they seem pretty thick. Previously I've used Airfix ones. They were thinner but still they were barely conforming to the panel lines.

I'll try something else than Micro Sol.

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Although Micro Sol and Micro Set solutions work on other decal ranges, it should be born in mind that this was part of a decal system namely microscale decals which were exceptionally thin.

When used with these decals it was near perfect all the time.

My only recommendation is to try additional applications until satisfied, I have had to sometimes apply 4 coats till decal seated.

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Academy decals are some of the worst offenders, and IIRC it was on an Academy kit that the use of Tamiya X20A paint thinner was first mentioned.

Regarding decal softeners from my personal experience I'd say the order of strength is as follows (weakest first):

Daco Soft

Daco Medium / Micro Sol

Daco Strong

Solvaset

There is also Mr Mark Softer, but I have no experience of this one so not sure where it would fall.

Hope this helps.

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I use Humbrol Decalfix which works perfectly even on ancient Matchbox and Airfix decals, all you need to do is wet the surface with decalfix before positioning the decal and then brush over the decal making sure the area is soaked. After a few hours the decal will have conformed nicely and you can clean the model with a kitchen towel and warm water if need be.

A word of caution with Decalfix. While I use enamel paints and have had no problems, other forum members that use acrylics have had their models ruined after using Decalfix as it apparently melts acrylic paint.

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Some waterslide decals will not respond to setting solutions, Draw decals for example their instructions state that setting solutions will have no effect on their decals (quite true I tried it before reading the instructions), they advise to use very hot water pressing the decals down with a hot cloth hey presto their decals settled down with no carry film to be seen. I’ve noticed Tamiya also state the same in their instructions although in the case of their decals setting solutions do seem to work.

Malcolm

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Mr Mark Softer and Mr Mark Setter are pretty good decal solutions, with Softer being the more aggressive. I'd like to get a bottle of the Daco Strong solution, but keep forgetting :rolleyes:

Is it possible that your Micro Sol is past its smell-by date? :shrug:

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I've tested Mr Mark Softer but to no avail. The decals hasn't soften at all. Maybe they are just to thick or made with some material that Softer or Sol does not react with.

At least I can confirm that softer does not react with Klear at all. It does not cloud it like Sol sometimes does.

I didn't want to go radical and use Tamiya glue as suggested, in fear that I may damage the surface, so I've taken a toothpick and gently pressed the decals along the lines and rivets when it dried out.

06515087830851812781.jpg

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Mr Mark Softer and Mr Mark Setter are pretty good decal solutions, with Softer being the more aggressive. I'd like to get a bottle of the Daco Strong solution, but keep forgetting :rolleyes:

Is it possible that your Micro Sol is past its smell-by date? :shrug:

Mark Softer and Mark Set are the only decal liquids I use. They give fantastic results.

Just my :2c:........................

Julian

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..... (coat of Klear > .......

A coat of Klear onto the model ready for the decals, or are you putting a coat of Klear actually onto the decals before using the decal solution?

The forum is good but the later may well be the problem.

HTH,

Rick.

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A coat of Klear onto the model ready for the decals, or are you putting a coat of Klear actually onto the decals before using the decal solution?

The forum is good but the later may well be the problem.

HTH,

Rick.

B~~~~~g iPad auto correct!

Yep, should have read "former" not forum.

But then again, I do like the forum, even when the Boss............

Glad you cleared up the Klear question chap.

Rick.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

I don't know bout you guys but Mig Production decal softener works wonder for me. It smooth decal and increases grip on irregular surfaces like bumps or cavities.

http://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-decal-supplies-mig-productions-mig-p252

http://migproductionswebshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=583

yYou guys may check it out. :popcorn:

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