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I fancied a quick and easy project and seeing Spitfires overhead daily during the summer months (I'm under the approach to Biggin Hill) I didn't need much inspiration to dig this one out of the attic This model simply fell together and was an absolute joy - construction of the main airframe only took a few evenings and I only used a smidgen of filler at the wing to fuselage join. Decals were from EagleCal and I also added the MDC corrected spinner and oil cooler,to more accurately replicate a MkIIa. The model depicts P8088 of 118Sqn during April 1941. All paints were Xtracolour enamels, with Humbrol Matt varnish. I'm really looking forward to the MkIX that Revell are about to release to go with this one. All the best, Tom

I'm starting a new build, 1/32 Revell EC135 Flying Bulls, it's seems this kit is a little weak, lots of flashing, ejection in marks, but with some work and mods it might become neat. Enjoy, hope you like it. Scratch instruments panel Base plate with some minor modifications, grids on the exhaust panels

My 14 year old daughter joined the air cadets last year & it appears that she has become mad keen on airplanes (swmbo is not impressed). Her favourite at the airshows we go to is the Eurofighter, despite my fondness for Lysanders, Hurricanes and the Miles Messenger. As it happens my step daughter gave me this kit for Christmas, so it seems it's time to build a kit that requires no ez-line. As with most of the planes I build, this one will end up hanging from the ceiling, so I shan't be bothering with any aftermarket bits & bobs. However, before it gets hung up & gets its' full load of weapons fitted, I'm going to try and photoshop it into this picture: Typhoon by Andy Moore, on Flickr It worked quite well with Sally-B, so I thought I'd give it another go. I can't remember the last time I built a Jet, so this could be a disaster. My paints of choice are Vallejo model-air, so if anyone has any thoughts on the shades of grey that I should use I'd be most grateful if you could share those thoughts. Here are some pics I took that are fairly self explanatory, initial progress should be posted tomorrow. Revell 1/48 Eurofighter by Andy Moore, on Flickr Revell 1/48 Eurofighter by Andy Moore, on Flickr Revell 1/48 Eurofighter by Andy Moore, on Flickr

Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers

Hi chaps. I lurk around here a lot, but don't tend to post much. I've been following threads and picking up hints and tips here and there. So I thought it was time I contributed something. I have a few tamiya car kits, but didn't want to start with one, until I had at least one practice build under my belt. With that in mind I pulled this revell offering out of my stash.... Got some work done, and will post something later. Matt

Hi guys!! I´m still uploading pics of some old builds, this one was build 3 years ago... it´s the revell kit with some scratch parts like the machine gun, lights fenders, a new mantlet was done with milliput and other bits ... Hope you like it: Cheers!!

Hello, It's been only 8 days since I finished the 2 A-7's, and here's already a new finished build. Something quite different from the Corsairs, the 1/72 Revell Fw-200 C-8 Condor. This one is almost completely OOB, except for the swastikas, and it was a joy to build. Nicely detailed interior, good fit, decals were decent. I used Xtracolor, Humbrol and Modelmaster on this one. The plane I picked was found intact at Braunschweig at the end of the war. I guess its crew decided it was better to sit out the war there. Thanks for looking, I hope you like it. Pete

Hi, this is my 1/72 Bradley that I've build 12 years ago. I added a TOW missile and smoke was done with painted cotton wool, road signs are actual road signs from Iraq and reduced to scale, I also added stretched sprue rolls to look like barbwire. Many thanks for looking.

Hi all! Following a house move, this was the first kit i got around to building. Bit annoyed at the camera angle in the video as i was working in confined space and couldn't quite set it up right. What do you guys think of the build and finish? i didnt paint it as it was already in base colour, but feel it could have made a thicker wash.... thanks

While I have a load of partially built kits on, around, and under the bench, I've recently been suffering from a lack of mojo. So I figured I'd pull the Revell 1:16 Model T Ford (1912) out of my stash. Despite it being a larger scale kit (1:16) it is lacking in detail. There is no engine included, but looking at the chassis mouldings there appears to be space for an electric motor / gears and drive shaft. So perhaps the original release was a motorised kit, as per the original Airfix 1:12 Blower Bentley? Anyway, it should build up to be a nice model. Obligatory Box and Sprue Shot: Dry fitting a few bits together: (lol, the doors are inside out in the photo above!) Looking almost like a Model T Ford! Hopefully I'll get my airbrush back in action and give this kit a decent paint job. Only thing is I need suggestions for repainting the gold chromed part, as by the time you remove them off the sprues, there are obvious marks on the gold chrome...

I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 (make that 6 now. Update; 8 now) Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Gulf Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in BOAC colours and thirdly a 747-8i in an Air NZ completely black scheme (airlines have been updated). Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep? I have on the go... 1. 747-400 Gulf Air 2. 747-600 BOAC 3. 747-400Y British Airways Landor 4. 747-Xstretch Thai Airways 5. 747-8i Air New Zealand 6. 747-8i Alitalia And a hankering for more Update 7. KC-748 tanker. Possibly Iran Air 8. VC-25B Airforce One 747-8i

My first post in this section I have started to make Revell's 1/24 scale mini cooper 998. I am sharing just 3 pics but i will upload more as i progress. I am still in progress. Tonight, i will complete whole engine, axle,exhausting system and other small details... the seats are(currently) white but i will paint them beige color..

Don't know if there are any other Halo fans out there but these kits look awesome! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-science-fiction-modeling/551817-revell-halo-kits.htm

Star Wars Imperial Star Destroyer - Rogue One 1:4000 Revell Star Wars is a little-known cult series of films about two 'droids called R2-D2 and C-3PO, that some of you may have seen. In line with the latest film of the franchise, which goes by the name Rogue One, Revell have released a number of new Star Wars kits with newly Rogue One themed boxart. The Star Destroyer has gone through a number of variants/versions for the various films, and quite frankly I get a bit lost as they're all huge and cheese-wedge shaped, so I hope the purists will forgive me. If you've not seen Rogue One, you should perhaps check it out, as if enough people watch it, they might make another one. The Kit Right from the start I feel the need to state that this is a Level 1 Make & Play "kit", and not the newly minted (and huge) Zvezda kit that is soon to be reboxed under the Revell brand. The kit is snap-together, using pillars and tubes that friction-fit together, locking the parts in place to all but the most determined fingers. It measures 400mm long, and comes in 46 parts, some of which are quite small, and could get lost if you (or a child) open them a bit too enthusiastically. The parts are all pre-cut from the moulding sprues, so there's less to throw away, and they are held loosely in place within the box by clear vacformed mouldings, which do go in the bin. It has light and sound, which is always a fun aspect of these kits for the kids, and my 6 year-old was cock-a-hoop when I demonstrated it to him, scurrying off to show mummy in a very excited manner. Everything clips together easily, with only the small clear blue liners to the engines a little tricksy in places, and the purists will have literal kittens when they see the three "landing gear" panels that hinge down from the lower hull to allow it to be stood square on the shelf when not in use. Small fingers find those a bit fiddly, but after a few operations, they slacken up a bit, and familiarity helps too. In step 4 and 5 the instructions show the rear detail area being constructed from two main parts that encompass and trap the exhaust bells in place behind the heavy light & sound module. The lower section is fitted to the lower hull, the exhausts mounted, and then the upper section is placed on the lower part, after which the upper hull is added. This turns out to be a bit fiddly, so install the upper rear part in the upper hull to make your life easier. The rest of the kit builds up very quickly, and if you're familiar with construction kits, you could have it ready for action in 10 minutes or less if you're that excited. The other moving parts are the small gun emplacements on the flanks of the superstructure, which clip in place and rotate quite freely once inserted. They have been moulded in a slightly darker grey styrene to help them stand out, as have the golf-ball shield generators and the lattice structure between them. On completion of the build, pulling out the little plastic tab on the underside allows the three 1.5v LR44 batteries to make contact with the circuit, and pressing the small square button on the underside will then play one of two sound clips from one of the movies (It sounds like A New Hope to me), which you will be able to hear if you play the video clip that I've embedded from Revell. The rear exhausts also emit a baleful blue light, but it doesn't extend to the smaller pairs of exhausts, even though they have clear blue inserts of their own. It's a minor omission, but it makes you wonder why they bothered with the inserts. Nevermind. Also on the underside is a small compartment for the batteries that you access with a small Phillips screwdriver, and if you can't be bothered Googling the alternative codes for the LR44, they are AG13, AG14, LR1154, AG76 and many others. It's about time battery manufacturers did something about that! Finally, there is a small grille near the button that allows the sound from the speaker to escape from the hull. Whoever put the kit together in the video needs more finger strength. My example had none of those massive gaps between the parts once the parts had been properly squeezed together. Conclusion Little Johnny or Jemima will love this, although the detail compromises that have been made to facilitate play will have the perfectionists rocking back and forth in a corner, but they should rest easy, as they're not the intended market. As I have said in the past, this series of kits is aimed squarely at kids, who don't care that Star Destroyers don't have landing gear, and that the panel lines are over-scale, and they certainly can't wait for the kit to be painted before they start whizzing it round the living room. My son still regularly plays with the other kits from this series, and this one has become a firm favourite with him too in the short time he's had playing with it. If they were to do a Make & Play Kylo Ren's or Krennic's shuttle, he'd be one happy boy, but if they did a new shuttle Tyderium with light & sound, he'd go ballistic, as he's inherited his love for that design from his old man. One of the many reasons I remain a proud dad. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

The North American A-5/RA-5 Vigilante W.I.P. by Andrii Dzhuran, Revell kit 1/72 History: The rapid evolution of aircraft design in the 1950s led to new aircraft types with sleek lines and impressive performance. One such aircraft was the North American A-5/RA-5 "Vigilante". The Vigilante was designed as a carrier-based strategic nuclear bomber, but would see action over Vietnam as a fast reconnaissance aircraft. In the postwar period, the US Navy was determined to obtain a nuclear strike capability, first acquiring the North American AJ "Savage" and Douglas A-3 "Skywarrior" bombers. These were both subsonic aircraft, and since aircraft design was evolving quickly at the time, both soon became obsolete for the missions for which they had originally been designed. The new aircraft was originally referred to as the "North American General Purpose Attack Weapon" and later given the company designation of "NA-233". After discussions with the Navy, the NAA-233 concept took shape as a twin-engine aircraft with advanced combat avionics, Mach 2 performance, and an interesting "linear bomb bay" in which a nuclear weapon was popped out the tail to give the aircraft a better chance of escaping the atomic blast. North American engineers also considered fitting the aircraft with an auxiliary rocket engine powered by jet fuel and hydrogen peroxide for an additional burst of speed over the target area -- but the Navy didn't like the idea of handling a nasty, toxic, reactive, and unstable substance like hydrogen peroxide on board a ship, and so it didn't happen. The Vigilante was long and sleek, with a relatively small high-mounted swept-back wing, and all-moving slab tailplanes and tailfin. The aircraft had tricycle landing gear, with the main gear retracting into the fuselage. All three gear had single wheels and retracted forward, with the main gear rotating 90 degrees during retraction to fit into the wheel wells. The Vigilante was powered by twin General Electric YJ79-GE-2 engines, with engine bays made mostly of titanium, and covered with gold film to reflect heat. The aircraft had a large fuel capacity to give it long range and permit extended flight in afterburner. This period of history is interesting to me. Also, you might be interested. My new build in the WIP chapter “The North American A-5/RA-5 Vigilante” by Revell`s old kit begins with: Day 1 - Review of the kit; - Instructions study;

Well hello everybody! I have decided to head back to the Gentlemans scale for a nice relaxing stress free, almost spring time, out of the box build. (Probably) Since My Father's Day gift from the kids last year ( Tickets to the Cosford air show ) I haven't been to an air show since I was knee high to a grass hopper and the sight and sounds of such a wonderful aircraft have stuck in my head. The rest of the show was pretty cool too. Here's a brief glimpse of the Typhoon in flight. https://wn.com/mobile/eurofighter_typhoon__cosford_airshow_2016 I had bought the Revell kit from the bargain bin in my LMS in Birmingham a few months before not knowing that I would be seeing one in flight. Long story short, this will be my next build, it's a far cry from my last mammoth three month long build of the venerable Airfix Bf109-E. Back to the matter at hand...... The boxed offering is a "Eurofighter Typhoon F2, R.A.F Coningsby UK, 2005/2007 No.3 Squadron. It is the magic number after all. There are other schemes but this one is the one I put a pin in. The Cosford jet was a FGR4 but it was a single seater like this one so that's good enough for me. I hope you will join me in building this lovely kit. Let's hope it is a lovely kit eh? Any hoo here is the obligatory box shot after I have cleaned the bench and set up the almost ritualistic first shot of a new build. Nice innit? I'm going to post now and follow up after dinner. Take care and hope you're all having a lovely Friday eve. Happy Modelling. Johnny Typhoon.

Hello, Finally I had some time to finish anything. This time I was working on a car. Quite a nice kit to build, straight forward with good fit. But as usual I had some problems on the way. Starting with lack of instructions on how to paint the interior, aluminium roof was a bit of a pain, I couldn't achieve smooth surface, tried Mr. color metal paints, AK true Metal wax, finally used old good Alclad2. I thought, that will be my try with high gloss Halfords laquers, Audi real colour. But then, I looked in the instructions, and bang - this car has a satin finish.. I used it anyway and to be honest it looks way better satin than gloss. Some parts were meant to be gloss, like chassis. I guess that's because they used the same chassis for different variants on the track. Decals were a dream to work with, no big issues with the kit. Pictures: Now back to tanksThanks,Bart

I have a Revell DH-2 in stash and this GB gives me an excuse to finally start it. Greg in Oklahoma

I'm not sure I should be starting a 2nd WIP thread with one still outstanding and a RFI still to post but hey ho I've made a start on a pair of de Havilland jets - the Airfix Vampire T11 and Revell Sea Vixen. No aftermarket toys - I'm aiming for a relaxed and easy life I hadn't quite realized how big the difference in sizes between these planes was. With the family resemblance I thought they'd be similar(ish) but the Vixen is a behemoth The most minor of mods for the Sea Vixen - reshaped seat based on the kit seat with added stretched sprue and scrap polystyrene sheet to make something that if you squint could look almost right and a couple of shims of sheet added to stretch and slim the nose a bit (which handily gives me a neat compartment for hiding some fishing weights) Other than that it has been mundane cobbling together with the odd dash of regret (I wish I'd made more effort on the Vixen cockpit now that it is sealed up). a lot of filling and sanding is in the offing

Hi folks, I've had the Revell Mosquito B.IV sitting in the stash for a good few years so I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to get it built. To correct the kits flaws I've bought some ultracast wheels, extended the main gear using the Tamiya kit as a reference (adding the tyre guards at the same time) and sanded the spinners to a better shape (although they remain too short). I hope this doesn't classify as jumping the starting gun?!?! I've got a set of Eagle cal decals and I plan to build DZ415 of 627 Squadron in 1945. Looking forward to getting started on this one! Chris

Hi all, So with the F-16I Sufa almost done, it's on to the next build and one I've wanted to do for a while using this wee kit... And hopefully turn it into an EC-135 of the Garda Siochana (Irish Police Force) Air Support Unit (Photo by Jerry Gunner; Wikipedia Commons. No copyright claim intended) Some of the police bits will need to be scratched while others (including the high skids) come in a spare sprue that's included in this kit. Decals will be from Max Decals. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Dermot

So i recently got this for a bargain price and was really pleased with the kit. This is revells Camaro Z28 RS. The kit has 8 sprues which also include one chrome, clear and a transparent red sprue for the tail lights. The parts do look very clean but we will see how it all goes together. I will begin with the engine and also scratchbuild some details. As for colour i am thinking of going all black and making this a real mean muscle car. Work has begun and photos will be uploaded shortly.

So it turns out my new (moved jobs to Hereford) hobby store do a great deal! if you by decalfix you get a free model.... that's my story and I am sticking to it!.... their decal fix is expensive, just over £10 anyway I ended up with this Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr I am going through a bit of a radial faze at the moment which may need to be addressing at some point in the year, also I never really built US aircraft however since the the MTO GB and completing 'Bottoms Up II' i have become quite keen on US aircraft and their lovely nose art options! I have always loved this one for childish reasons of course, so when I saw it there in the store while I was trying to find something to take me above £5 for a card transaction I thought it must be a sign.... bought it and wanted to start it straight away! Its a nice kit from 1999, my only real complaint looking at the sprue is there is more flash than there really should be and the cowl flaps are not the nicest... and it would have been nice to have a closed option. Here she is in her naked state Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr so today I have started with painting the cockpit, it had its base coat detail painting followed by a dry brushing of Sand, and aluminium along with chipping, once all this dried out it got a citadel wash. Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr seat belts are moulded on and hand painted by ones self using a tiny brush of course next was the rather nice engine, this had a coat of mr hobby metal one once dry a good buffing with a big stiff brush Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr the gear housing(?) was buffed then the dome section painted grey. Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr the gear bays were done next and given a base coat of olive green with my own mix of zinc cromate over the top Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr after that it was back to the cockpit, assembled and then glued into the fuselage Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr then she got closed up Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr seams will need more work but i will leave them for now. Wings were then added Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr the wing root will get a sand and clean up and i will need to take the flash off the gun barrels next the engine was assembled Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr the prob shaft is way too long and will need some work when the prop is fitted. after that the cowling was tidied and then added, now if you are building this kit you may find like me that the fit of the cowl round the engine was rather tight and needed a fair bit of force to fit... or at least i hope you do because I did! and here where we are at, now i have to get the kids from school! Untitled by robert mulvey, on Flickr not bad for a few hours work I think! comments welcome Rob

Hi guys, I will try to build the Revell 1/35 Leopard 1 from Revell. It will be in the Koninklijke Landmacht (Dutch Army) livery. The only extra's I will use are some metal tracks (Friul Modelismo) and a metal gun barrel (RB Model). The gun barrel is originally for the TI 67 Tiran, so I think I may need to modify it a bit. Pictures will follow later. Cheers,

Hi All Here is my recently completed Revell U-wing transport from 'Rogue One'. This ship is in my top 5 favorite Star Wars ships (the Republic Gunship, aka LAAT/i, is my favorite all-time) as I have thing for helicopter gunships like the Vietnam War era Huey in the real world. The same individual who 3D-milled the center drive section for my AT-ACT also milled the replacement engine nozzles and rear radiator panel for this kit as it was missing altogether (Revell received the U-wing profiles/plans for production from Lucasfilm before the ship's design was finalized for the movie). Instead of doing a total repaint, I concentrated on the areas around the seams and just touched those spots up after filling them in. The markings on the fuselage were distressed with a sanding stick or hobby knife (except the gray panel on the right side- it was airbrushed over some sprinkled salt for the chipping effect). The entire ship then received a pastel chalk wash. A little heavier than I intended, especially around the engines, so we'll just chalk it up to heavy interstellar abuse. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Albert