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tomprobert

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tomprobert last won the day on December 25 2015

tomprobert had the most liked content!

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About tomprobert

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 02/16/1982

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    http://tpsmodelworld.webs.com/
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kent
  • Interests
    WWII aviation - especially the Eighth Air Force, Commercial Aviation, Vacforms and Scratch-building

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  1. Weathering looks great to me - those high-time Forts really did look beaten up.
  2. As I said earlier in this thread I've held off buying one of these but seeing this come together it's getting harder and harder to resist...
  3. Lovely result - I’ve got this on the to do pile so the heads up regarding the nose weight is appreciated! Tom
  4. Looking good To be honest I think any colour of greeny-brown will work for faded olive drab. When you study wartime colour pictures they vary greatly. Some stayed a dark olive, others went brown and some even took on a purplish hue. Forts were built at numerous factories, using numerous sub-contractors who used numerous paint suppliers so it’s not surprising that the colours varied so much. When it comes to weathering, don’t forget that no stains are emitted from the vents behind the engines on the upper wing. These were vents to allow hot air and vapours to escape from the wing - the oil from the breather pipe on the top of the engine actually went around these vents, leaving the area behind clean. These images show it well - there are a few more to study too: http://www.americanairmuseum.com/media/2758 http://www.americanairmuseum.com/media/2769 If I had £1 for the number of B-17 models I’ve seen with big thick black stains coming from those vents... Tom
  5. I think @Matt B has answered the question pretty well above
  6. That’s more than enough detail for 1/48 scale and as you say not much is seen with the cowls on anyway. Just a heads up for when it comes to installing the landing gear - the main legs are too long and therefore the model sits too high - this error was carried through from the 1/32nd kit. The legs are molded as if there is no weight on them - the oleos are fully extended and a simple solution is remove a little from the struts and pin and reset. I did this on both of my 1/32 versions and it improved the overall sit of the model hugely
  7. Good to see another 747 project and I’ll be interested to see how the cockpit mod looks. I have this kit but haven’t examined it that closely - the -400 version certainly needed it!
  8. Great progress - my BA 747 has had all the decals applied and I’m waiting for this awful wet weather to pass before adding a varnish coat. Good to see the cockpit mod in progress - it’s a subtle difference but worth the effort as it greatly improves the look of the whole cockpit area.
  9. This is shaping up beautifully, Neil. You are spot on re the deflectors as the pictures show. On early G-models the glazed waist windows were a retrofit and they left the factories with the earlier F-style open windows. The glazed portions came as kits and were added post-production at modification depots. The same applies for the early Gs with the cheek windows too. However, as the production of G batches continued, these mods were added during production. I don’t have a definitive answer, but it appears the wind deflectors remained until the introduction of the staggered waist windows with a different arrangement all together. I have only had a cursory glance at the 1/48th HK kit but if the chin turret is a direct scaling down of the 1/32 kit the rear of chin turret will need some work. It maybe worth checking if they have included the two small clear panels on the rear (which were removable to give access to the guns) and I think the shell ejector slots were too big from memory. However, if you have the guns facing forward it solves the problem, but most B-17s when parked had the turrets rotated to the side to give armourers access to the turret interior via the clear panels. Being rotated also stopped dust etc getting into the barrels during takeoff. Here’s a great set of images from a mod-centre, including the addition of the three pane waist windows: https://www.facebook.com/pg/ghostofww2/photos/?tab=album&album_id=674960093047083 Notice too the lack of internal paint - good to see plenty of yours in NMF!
  10. I was down at Dymchurch today on the south Kent coast and saw this beauty. First time I’ve seen an RAF version and boy did she look shiny in the glorious sunshine today. Sadly I didn’t have a camera at hand as she was low and slow and even the wife was impressed!
  11. Loving your work on this. It must be quite strange in some ways building an exact miniature replica of the aircraft you flew - I'm surprised you didn't put a miniature version of yourself on the flightdeck! I like the choice of tail too - I personally felt the Utopia tails were great. I flew home from Sydney in 2003 on 'Rendezvous' and have been considering building a replica for a while. Speaking of which, I'm working on my own tribute to the mighty 'Queen of the Skies' too: BA 747-436 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Looking at your post above, you're at the trickiest part of this kit - the lower panel has fitted poorly on all of the Revell 744s I've done. I treat it much like a vacform and add tabs to the front and like you I use spare sprue to strengthen the wingroot area. Unfortunately it's then a case of some serious filling and sanding and rescribing to restore the details. On every version I've built, I've found the body gear is too short, and is a good 2mm less in length than the wing gear. I've come to the conclusion that the wing gear is the correct length, so I usually add a plastic card false roof to the body gear bays to lower them and then have all the main gears sitting correctly. Another tip to greatly improve the look of the cockpit area is to raise the roof profile above the cockpit windows using some Milliput - the kit has the curve too shallow and it spoils the look of the whole cockpit area. Not sure if you can see it on mine above, but when compared to the kit in its original form you can see the subtle difference. Anyway, sorry to highjack your thread - I'll watch quietly from the back row from now on Tom
  12. That looks really impressive - very graceful in fact. Looks a bit like the love-child of an Il-96-400 and an A340-600!
  13. I’ve just managed to persuade the wife to allow me to hang a DC-3 picture on the living room wall - adding a huge BUFF might be pushing it a bit too far... I’m gonna need a bigger car to take this to model shows when done
  14. B-52s are festooned with various lumps and bumps covering a wide array of sensors and jammers etc., but these are not covered by Sanger so it's a case of making your own. So when it's a rainy afternoon, it's time to get out the BUFF and Milliput... Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr First off, the rear fuselage has this (what I presume is) chaff dispenser that later model Hs don't have: Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr This was swiftly removed with a razor saw to make way for a new fairing to be made: Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Speaking of making fairings, I've adopted a fairly fool-proof method of getting a snug fit to the fuselage. Step 1: place some masking tape on the area the fairing will sit, and then make an approximate shape of the required fairing in Milliput: Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Step 2: When fully cured, remove the tape (which by default removes the fairing,) sand to shape and then reattach to the fuselage for a perfect fit: Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr There is a fairing in place of the chaff dispensers on the rear fuselage, as well as one on either side of the fuselage near the rear landing gear bays: Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As well as two atop the forward fuselage: Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As you can see from this image, I've also started adding the various strengthening plates at the upper wing-roots and atop the mid-section: Untitled by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Until next time, Tom
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