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S5 modeller

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About S5 modeller

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  • Birthday 10/05/1973

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  1. Lovely paintwork Chris. Is that plum crazy purple by any chance? Looking forward to seeing it all come together. Matt
  2. Beautiful work kallisti, coming along a treat. Shame about all the pin holes, but they seem to be par the course with large resin pieces. Beware of the cold like symptoms you have, as I've had similar in the past sore tickly throat and blocked nose with sneezing fits, found out it was resin dust causing it. A day or so away from sanding resin cleared it up. Make sure to wear a mask, or wet sand and damp down to reduce the amount of dust created. Matt
  3. Picked these 2 beauties up from hobbycraft meadowhall last week. V2 cost £6 and the yamaha virago was £16. Matt
  4. Good work Stephen. Kit looks infinitely better than the lindberg kit I started building. Matt
  5. Sorry I've not updated this build recently, but stuff keeps getting in the way. Not much to report from last time, after the spoon tests. I've started painting the shock absorbers red, but they need a second coat. I have progressed on the body shell. After the not to my liking of the top coat over the grey primer, I decided to strip back the shell. I've used isopropanol, but didn't have enough to fully submerge it, so gently wiped it away, using cotton wool pads. I don't think it turned out too bad. I'm going to prime it white, and this is what I'm going to use.... I've used it on kit's before, and it's good stuff, nice and cheap(£3.99) for a large can. Here's the result of the first application. Once it's cured I'll wet and dry it. There are a couple of spots that need attention, then it'll get another coat. Hopefully the next update won't take as long. Matt
  6. My first job involved a 4 year apprenticeship in tool making, one day a week at the local college (walsall college of arts and technology). First year spent in a training center learning turning, milling, bench fitting, welding and electrical fitting. Got a placement at an engineering company and was let loose milling 50-100 ton fabrications for power presses. Big work for a 17 year old school leaver!. Got made redundant after my apprenticeship ended, and bounced around a few engineering companies in the midlands. Got a job cnc turning, ended up a self taught programmer. Still doing the same thing 30 years later, but now living in the steel city of sheffield. Keep meaning to try and get away from engineering, but it keeps sucking me back in. Matt
  7. Thanks for the info Pascal. The grey primer definitely altered the shade of red out of the can. Didn't realise it until I tested it. I think a white, or yellow primer is the way to go. You were lucky to get so close to the original car, most people haven't even heard of it! Hope to get some more progress shots up soon, as I'm on holiday this week and I've got the kit, and paints with me! Matt
  8. Morning all. I've hit upon a problem,and I'm not too happy about it. I thought the red looked a bit darker than I hoped for, so decided to do some spoon tests, mainly to check compatibility with different clear coats. I think you can see the problem. The spoon on the left has been primed with gray primer, and painted red. The spoon on the right has the red sprayed straight onto the white plastic. The gray primer is making the red too dark. I never considered it causing a problem when I started. I've got a can of hi-cote white plastic primer, so it looks like I'm stripping the body back, and starting again. Matt
  9. @Spiny no forgiveness required, that Trabant is beautiful, and illustrates nicely that you can indeed shine up acrylic nicely. It's encouraged me to continue on my path, and persevere with the red. Matt
  10. It was, it was built for the 1990 motor show. Same chassis as a Testarossa, but shorter and wider in the rear. Originally there was only 1 made, but the then sultan of Brunei commissioned Pininfarina to produce him two examples. I believe one was bue, and one was yellow. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_Mythos
  11. My thoughts exactly. Think I will continue on my current track, and try for a better finish on another build. Matt
  12. Thanks for the further advice guys. Matt, I've read your guide to zero paints numerous times, and it is an invaluable piece of text. It persuaded me to try zero paints in the first place. Alan. It's nice to know that it is possible, to some extent, to polish acrylic finishes. I've got a quandary now, do I strip the body, and go against the evidence it only came in red, and paint it tour de force blue. Or do I carry on on my current route and finish it red? Choices choices. Matt
  13. Thanks for the input guys. Seems I'm on a looser from the start then. I'm tempted to strip the body and start again, as I have half a bottle of zero paints ferrari tour de France blue, from a previous build, and might use that instead. Would that, and the zero 2k lacquer be a better proposition for polishing?
  14. Nice work Johnny, makes a change from wingy things, eh? No dexter action on this build? Looking forward to what you make of the bodywork, should be fantastic knowing you. Matt
  15. Hello again. Time for a small update. Nearly have the engine assembled, will post some pictures later, and have made a start on the body. Thought I would crack on, as I'm away on holiday next week, and it will give the paint chance to harden up nicely. This will be my first serious attempt at a "proper" paint job, including polishing the clear coat up. Not sure how well it will work out, so bear with me. Please feel free to shout out if you see me doing something wrong. Got the body sprayed in humbrol grey acrylic primer. I've sanded it smooth with 2000 grit wet and dry. I've gone through in a couple of places. I intend to use humbrol acrylic "Italian" red, as I couldn't track down a can of tamiya "Italian" red locally. Didn't want to have to wait days for a delivery off of the net. I've given the body a first coat, and am waiting for it to dry. Looks good in the pics, but it has a bit of orange peel to it. I've also sprayed the floor pan in cheap pound shop matt black, although it looks glossy in the photo, the paint it still wet. Now I have a couple of questions. If I sand out the orange peel on the final coat, will I need to polish the paint back to a shine before a clear coat? Which clear coat would you recommend to use with the humbrol paint? I've got alclad aqua gloss, hiroboy 2k clear, pledge polish(new klear), and an old can of humbrol clear gloss. I don't want a nasty reaction to spoil my work. I'm loathed to use the humbrol clear, as in the past it has crazed the paint underneath it, even when it was humbrol paint. Will the hiroboy gloss be incompatible with the humbrol acrylic? Sorry for all the noob questions, but I don't want to ruin the hard work and effort I've put into this kit. I've checked out videos on YouTube, but all of them seem to stick with like for like brands ie tamiya paint and clear varnish. Thanks for looking in. Matt.
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