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SteveR

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    53
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About SteveR

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday April 21

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bristol
  • Interests
    Sci-Fi & Horror

Recent Profile Visitors

464 profile views
  1. Hi @Monkeysinister I used Humbrol #35 Varnish Gloss - 14ml Acrylic Varnish (https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/35-varnish-gloss-12ml-acrylic-varnish.html) applied with an airbrush before applying the decals, and then again after the decals had dried. The result was okay (I'm happy with it) but it was my first model ever and others might have better advise on this subject!
  2. After a recent disaster this model has become a 'work in progress' again The mains adapter I was using for the power source had a removable/changeable end and it came off. I put it back on, plugged it in and turned it on. After a few seconds I could smell burning Turns out I'd put it on the wrong way around so the polarity was wrong. Luckily the power (9v) fed in to a small circuit board outside of the model, which in turn provided power to the other circuits inside the model. It also handled the timing for the navigation lights. So all the circuits and LEDs inside the model still work! The image shows the completely melted 555 Timer chip socket after I tried to pull out the chip. I was going to replace it but the solder tracks on the board are also a bit of a mess. I'll probably build a replacement board while doing the electronics for another model. I'm just glad the Enterprise model is still fully working! Phew
  3. Those secondary impulse engines look fantastic! Very nicely done. I briefly looked at a similar effect when doing my Enterprise NCC1701 but in the end just went with a plain red, next time I'd love to get it looking as good as yours Looks forward to seeing more of your build!
  4. Looks like you got it working with Flickr I use HobbyPhotoHost.com which is pretty easy, and has a free option. You can upload from your mobile or a desktop too.
  5. Nice build log, lots of detail Looking forward to seeing the finished model!
  6. That looks amazing! Very nice :) I've seen some people use a soft pencil to bring out the deeper panel lines. Is that how you did yours?
  7. Thanks @RACETRACK I looked in to this a bit after someone else also mentioned DS9. The model does indeed look like it's based on the Enterprise featured in the DS9 episode 'Trials and Tribble-ations' which does have the grid lines... it made me feel better about not filling them in and trying to be faithful to the original series version I'd also love to build/have a 1/350 Enterprise, but I think the Mrs might get upset as I've not really got anywhere to display my models (yet)! The model I've shown above is a good size though, not too big but big enough to really get stuck in to, I really enjoyed building it. Even now, more than a year after I finished it I still enjoy plugging it in and looking at it
  8. Oh crap... I've just got mine out of the box and it does indeed have the panels scribed in I'll have to think about what to do, but I may forget about the aztecs on my Revell model, treat it as a bit of a test run (for lighting and colours etc) and maybe look at getting the Polar Lights version at a later date! Thanks for the info though! When I eventually get started on it I'll be posting my work in progress here so you can all see what I'm doing wrong Anyway, I'm really looking forward to more updates on your build, thanks for posting!
  9. Oh it's worth it, it looks amazing! In fact like others I'm very interested in how you did the aztecs. I've got a Revell Enterprise Refit build (1:537 scale) coming up and I want to to have the full on aztec paint job (I will be lighting it too). I've never attempted any paintwork like it before though so I'm really blown away with how good yours looks, I can only hope mine will look half as good as yours, and I'll still be happy
  10. Looks great! You probably know that the Reliant was originally designed with the warp nacelles on top, but when the drawings went for approval they were viewed upside down! They were approved upside down with the nacelles on the bottom and that's how it stayed! A lucky mistake that made the Reliant a stand-out ship and one of my favourites I only say this because it's interesting to wonder if the ship had been in the original series, which way up would it have been!? Great work, and great photos!
  11. Very nice opus999! Also, the detail in your posts is very useful to a relative novice like myself! Thanks
  12. Let battle commence! That looks like an amazing model though, lovely detailing and nice lighting. The K'Tinga was the ship I wanted when I bought my Klingon Battle Cruiser D7, which I just posted a work-in-progress for. I'll probably try to get one when my skill level is a bit higher I'm really looking forward to seeing your build!
  13. Klingon Battle Cruiser D7 I’ve finally gotten around to posting my work-in-progress Revell Klingon Battle Cruiser D7! I’ve had these hanging around now for a long time and I didnt take a huge number of photos, wish I took more (will do next time) but here’s what I’ve got so far! I’ve washed and tidied up the parts here and I’m about to start giving them a coat of adhesion promoter – to make sure the final paint job is hard-wearing. Between here and the next photo I’ve given everything a coat of adhesion promoter and primer. The inside also had a black coat then a coat of reflective white. Overkill perhaps, but certainly no light will be leaking out! Here I’ve got the engine circuit pulsing the two red outer LEDs while the two inner orange ones stay on. The back of the engine compartment is covered with grease proof paper to diffuse the light once it's all put together. Testing the engine unit before putting it on the model. The red engine light pulses gently. Here, I’ve pushed a red LED up in to the bridge area of the model and used hot glue to fill it in. To stop the light bleeding out I’ve painting the glue black. I've pushed the LED in to the photon torpedo tube and glued it in to place. I've covered it in hot glue which I'm going to paint black to stop light leakage. You can also see the grease proof paper covernig the windows. And here it is, the first real mistake I’ve Glued and light-locked all the parts for the head of the ship, now it’s time to glue the parts together…. The white LEDs in the image provide the white lighting for the front windows, but I’ve got the sticking upwards, so the top and bottom sections no longer fit together! With some cursing and rearranging of the LED, glue and plastic in the head section it now all fits together nicely. The image shows it powered up. The warp nacelles are pretty thin, especially with the clear parts fitted so I had to light them from the ends. The clear parts are again covered with grease proof paper to help soften the light. Hot glue (love that stuff) is again used to hold the LEDs in position. When the other half is put in place it’s a snug fit bit just about all fits. Sorry about the focus on this one. I’m about to glue the top section and warp nacelles in to place. The photo shows the mess of wiring running through the model. Not the best photo here, but the model is about ready for painting. I just need to mask all the clear parts first! I hope I can find time to do the painting before Christmas, I’ll update here when I’ve got more to show! Thanks all
  14. Hey all, I got a Revell U.S.S Reliant in the post this morning, to go with the Enterprise refit that I've had for a few weeks now! Both are the same 1:537 scale. The Reliant is my second favourite ship, after the refit Enterprise so I'm really looking forward to building and lighting these two! First though I have to finish my Klingon D7 kit. It's built and lit, but not painted. This one has taken me a long time due to family complications, but I'll post my build progress in the 'Work In Progress' forum soon So much fun to be had, so little time to have it!
  15. Nice! The updated paint job and decals look great, well worth the effort I'd say
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