TallBlondJohn

Oh god - I've just declared my Buccaneer fuselage painted and complete, ready for decaling. Oh well... Thanks for the full explanation anyway, even if it has ruined my weekend 😉

Beautiful. And nod to the original film for recording this rare plane and giving it such a good paint job

This is what happens when air forces have too much money. Wonderful music though!

Fabulous - did you print the decals?

Can you point out the other reinforcing plates that should be removed? Thanks

The issue for me would be the big contrast between the white of the roundel and serial and the white of the 6. Would they have been painted at the same time though on the real thing? If the 6 was a local job than we can blame the Erk (always blame the erks)

Oh no not the worst. The Matchbox plastic came in something frightful like yellow and purple IRRC. Unpainted it was a sight, and when 12 year old me had finished with the silver it was beyond help.

I can almost hear those shelves creaking - hope its not that heavy! Great build for a great show

Oddly enough I got my TSR2 together OK (with some bullying), it was at the paint stage that I lost the mojo. The various whites I tried and failed with mean it needs re-scribing and I couldn't face it. The fit of those airbrakes still gives me nightmares though. Maybe I could finish it as a range target?

Lovely build. You have to build 1/72 biplanes to realise what a challenge it is. The best thing about building Fokkers - if they fall apart, that's just extra realism.

Are they rescuing the wife or the dog?

That looks very nice. You will need a big sound system to do the noise!

Never mind digital - paint this on the bottom of your plane and watch everybody go white!

Very nice - the F105 does look very British with those curves, like a super Hunter

Lovely - must keep an eye out for this kit. I'm sure if you ran off a few more of those mask sets you would get takers

You know, I'm yet to see one of these built with a closed tail. Good job - mine goes into the paint shop Saturday (maybe).

I build biplanes. I think I'm going to have a little cry.

The dog ate mine! I was heartbroken. Used the Wolfpack decals on a lego version - not quite the same.

Aha, hadn't checked the clear sprue. Thanks!

Am I correct in thinking that RN Buccaneer's didn't have a landing light on the nose undercarriage leg, it was an RAF addition? Airfix's 1/72 has a location hole for a part in the right place, but no part. A light is shown on the painting plan, but not on the instructions. The best shot I can find of a Bucc in RN service has an airdale's head in just the right place to hide any light! Thanks John

Excellent collection - very nice variety of weathering as well, gives each extra character. To all modellers experiencing 'must clean workshop' syndrome: Sit in a dark room and breathe deeply until the urge passes. If that doesn't work, self medicate with alcohol. Sadly in these trying times you can't just call an ambulance, you will just have to tough it out. We are working on a vaccine.

Addendum - just noticed there are alternative parts for the arrestor hook in flight and on the ground as well (D28+D11/D29). On mine the nose gear door is slightly wide, probably because I over-squeezed the nose assembly. Simple to file down.

Terry is right, use thick or thin poly to 'thin' the putty. Even old dried out putty can be revived to the consistency you want. Very thin it can be painted, but as its mostly glue it will attack surfaces. Something similar is home-made sprue goo, just dissolve some sprue in thin glue (put both in a pot and leave overnight) and apply as required. The result should be the same hardness as its parent plastic, which makes sanding to an even surface much easier. There are commercial versions like Mr Dissolved Putty - one jar lasts forever. If you want something more forgiving, try Perfect Plastic Putty, its water soluble so it can be 'painted' on and washed off - but its not as tough as the solvent based putties so its best used for running into seams, you can wipe off the excess with a cotton bud and its done. Again it dries out with age but can be revived by crushing to powder and mixing with its solvent, water. Then there's Milliput, the HMS Dreadnought of putties. Its epoxy based so bomb-proof, but smells awful and takes a while to set. Can be thinnned with water until its set. It stinks and is very messy but ideal for large areas and sculpting. Some people also use automotive body filler for large jobs but I've never tried that. Finally there is homemade thin CA superglue mixed with talc or cornflour. The result sticks very well and can be easily filed and sanded - just how sticky v sandable depends on the ratio so you can cook up what you like. I like it for raised bits as its less fragile than putty. Always use fresh superglue if possible, old stuff goes off and is hopeless.

Oooh! Ekranoplan! And that's another item on the arm-long Hannants wish list. Thank god they don't do an injection Caspain Sea Monster.

Noticed this a while back, and now finally in a position to answer - the kit comes with perfectly fitting doors and bomb bay so no reason why it can't be built wheels up with no extra effort. Its a great kit, highly recommended. From the design its clear there will be further versions and boxings.