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Neil

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About Neil

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  1. So you could not contribute or add any feedback or constructive criticism while this In Progress build was under way, yet you have resurrected it 18 MONTHS after it was finished, done, and dusted, just to make a moot point regarding the seats used in the car? Something of a pointless thing to point out, possibly, because White leather seats were fitted as a factory option, ordered by the customer, so they are accurate. Black leather seats were fitted for a VERY short time, (days, possibly?) and changed back to the originals after filming. White leather seats are correct for this Miura. Conversely, you are happy to highlight this 'error' in my build, but admit to considering using, arguably, THE worst MIura kit out there, (Italeri) for your needs, and, I quote, you "might just make it 'look' like the car". Presumably you have no intention of trying to make the kit accurate in any way, and will be happy with a vague finished article, yet are more than happy to highlight a so called 'inacurracy' in my build? Then again, maybe you will be posting a full In Progress build of your Italeri Miura, here on BM, too, correcting all necessary faults and issues with the kit though?? I look forward to it .... Or alternatively, did you resurrect this article from 18 months ago simply as a convenient way of highlighting your link to Facebook, with no intention of actually putting your build on BM?
  2. You have not missed anything, just not had the opportunity to do any additional work to the model. A little sidetracked with other things that seem to crop up. Hope to get something done to it soon though. Close to being ready for some paint actually, once I have finished the canopy and such.
  3. Hopefully the last of the moulding and resin casting is finished too! The new prop hubs with cut-outs for the blade locations are finally in resin, as are the replacement prop blades with a broader mid-section to each blade profile, in comparison to the kit blades. Decided to mould the front and main wheels in resin too. The kit exhaust pipe is in the r/h foreground, the rear section of the pipe has been tapered (from the kit, it is a straight, parralel section of pipe, which is incorrect) and a very tiny, tubular section of plasic has been added to the very fron of the exhaust, as in the pics in the Walkaround section of the Heron. Overall view of the new resin prop hubs/blades and wheels temporarily in place.
  4. All the lengths of decal-backed raised resin lines have been added to the control surfaces, decals never adhere too well to bare plastic so I gave the ailerons, elevators and rudder a quick coat of gloss first, Zero Paints clearcoat lacquer which is pre-thinned for airbrush use and dries quickly, two or three lightly misted coats gave a good enough finish in order to apply the decals onto it. The decals are fully dry now and I can feel noticably raised lines when I run my finger over them, so hopefully they should have the desired affect, although I will not really know until a coat of paint is sprayed over them. So far so good though. Also managed to finish off the master patterns for the new prop hubs and prop blades, so these should be thrown into some silicone rubber in the next few days in order to make moulds from them and cast them in resin. Just need to polish the clear areas which will be the fuselage windows, and attach the canopy, and the airframe will be almost ready for some paint at last.
  5. Me too, and I have kind of scratched my head once or twice wondering how to achieve it. Still, I hope to apply these decal-backed raised resin lines from Archer Fine Transfers in the next few days .... and see exactly how it turns out. I'm very curious myself actually, never used them before!
  6. I still own all of the masters, patterns and moulds for all of the Paragon range, and I have seen some of the prices that my sets have made on various web and auction sites, and many, MANY times I have thought about getting back into the business and re-issuing some of them! Maybe one day I will actually do something about it, and do so!! Once again, an outstanding S-3 Viking you have made there.
  7. I manufactured and sold so many of those Wing Fold sets when I was running Paragon Designs, they were always a good seller, yet I saw very few of them built up on a finished model. So nice to see them on such an expertly finished Viking! Superb model, very, very good, things like the weathering have been captured perfectly. I congratulate you on such a finely finished model. Fantastic!
  8. Forgot to add, my assumption that I would not need much weight in the nose was completely wrong, it still needed 10g of .22 lead airgun pellets in the nose to stop it tail-sitting. Added a few details on the wheel hubs and u/c legs with some tiny discs in 0.25mm plastic, using a Waldron punch and die set, the torque links will be added once the legs are fitted permanently, and while rummaging around in my stash of spares from my 'Paragon Designs' days, the etched brass fret from one of my 1/72 A-26A / B-26K Counter Invader conversions quite handily has one of those pointy horseshoe shaped aerials that I will need for the top of the fuselage, and also a couple of windscreen wipers which are just the right size. Bonus! Because I removed all the rivet detail from the kit, and drastically thinned down all of the trailing edges of the wings/tailplanes/fin, not surprisingly all of the ribbing which really should be on the ailerons/elevators/rudder was lost, so I have a plan to put it back again. I have not tried this before, but have wanted to see if this works for a while now, and what I intend to do to replicate the ribbing is to use the Raised Panel Line set from Archer Fine Transfers cut into small lengths, and applied to the control surfaces. This set contains three different widths of fine raised lines, which are actually very thin beads of resin on a clear decal backing. I will probably use the thinnest lines, to see how it looks. Fingers crossed ...... !
  9. Neither did I, and very nearly missed it myself, until I looked very closely at as many pics as I could. I suppose all these little differences and subtle changes are what keep things a touch more interesting really! Quite a challenge to spot some of them, when trying to research some aircraft.
  10. Flaps and u/c fairings have been fixed in position, for the moment the legs with the wheels on them are just push fitted in place into the fairings. Now, when making the u/c fairings, I noticed something that had not registered with me before and on first looks at the main u/c legs is not immediately apparent. On aircraft with the non-retractable undercarriage, the main u/c legs with the fairings exit from the very rear portion of the inboard nacelle tips. Aircraft with retractable undercarriage have the main u/c leg attachment points exit from the flat wing underside, just to the outboard side of the nacelles. It is possible to just see the difference if you look closely at pics, for example scroll through the pics on the Heron Walkaround section on here on Britmodeller and you should spot it. In the walkaround section there are aircraft with both types of u/c legs, link below: You can make out the fixed main u/c leg attachment points in this pic too, of a Heron landing: https://www.airliners.net/photo/Jersey-Airlines/De-Havilland-DH-114-Heron-1B/2097125?qsp=eJwtjc0KgzAQhF9F5uxFLIXm1p%2BDt3roC4RkUal1w2ahDeK7N7G9ffPDzArHi9JHHykQDCJZcSNqBCv2FWFWPCm9WXxm3LqqaQ5VR8JL6YysfLVKA0uCaU81IoteMsNn%2B%2BwcBSWPn38XT1Iiim5/GMpjW5Ck/6tjln6KYbb7CqmdZmzbF3QBNr0%3D A few pics of the flaps and u/c legs and fairings. As I mentioned above, note the main u/c leg positions on the rear of the nacelles ....
  11. This one in the link below (the only one to have that written on it, according to the caption!). https://www.airliners.net/photo/Air-England-Channel-Airways/De-Havilland-DH-114-Heron-1B-C/1469883?qsp=eJwljs0KgzAQhF8lzNmLWAr11p%2BDt3roCyzJolKbhM2CDeK7N9rbx7fMzK6wwSt/9ZUjo0ViEjuiQiShT0K74s15CeIK49GZuj6ZjiV4Y0fynmdDkyyU054Zg4Y7KQ9BMtrmUiEF0VthuKKv1nJUdvj7pziW/cTJHotD%2BaAuwNIfjOZcvJtSnOnoYKVpxrb9AA7lPJA%3D
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