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About Ran

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  1. I had just a little time this week end - and most of it was dedicated to pre-painting. Started with filling some seems and trenches: Then sprayed Gray Stynylrez primer - it did not shoot too well, and was hard to spot over the gray plastic but it did reveal some places that needed some extra care. Puttied and sanded again: Then decided to use White Stynylrez primer: The Typhoon had yellow strips on its leading edges. Airbrushing yellow is a night mare so I decided to check two options: - On the left wing - I brushed some Oilbrusher AMMO Yellow - On the right wing - directly brush some enamel Model Master 1707 Chrome Yellow FS13538 I may keep these two different yellows - as an internal joke. So - the yellow needs to dry before I can continue - so this won't happen this weekend. Best Ran
  2. I had a short bench time this weekend and it was dedicated to pre-painting. Started with masking the Gray painted parts: This exercise expose all these panel lines that DO NOT align between fuselage parts - a short run indeed. This was followed by Alclad II ALC 309 Black Primer & microfiller: After an hour or so, I polished it a bit with Kimtech Wipes. Do not have time this week end to continue - hope it wont catch too much dust. That's it for today. Ran
  3. Should have noticed this while I was building mine. Looks great ! Following Best Ran
  4. My Vautour is reaching its paint stages - so I need to take a break from time to time for paint to cure. Time to move on with the Typhoon ! After the fuselage re-building it was the cockpit's turn to go into the fuselage parts. I must admit I did not take that into account when starting to re-build the missing skin part and this proved to be a problem. The cockpit would not just fit in as some of the strengtheners used to glue the bulkhead in place were glues right on where the cockpit should go. After some cutting, curving and cursing it all boiled down to one part of the cockpit I had to remove for it to fit it (marked on the 2nd image). Luckily this part is invisible when the fuselage is closed - so don't tell. and closing it up: The kits wing engineering is quite cool - it kind of slides into place - with huge gaps in the wing roots - which had to be manually squeezed and held while the glue cured. And this too starts looking like an airplane: That's it for this weekend. Comments are welcomed as always. Best Ran
  5. This build is certainly going much harder then a regular kit. I continues with masking the (small) canopy. I should have gotten a mask Went on to some more .... shimming With the shim up the spine behind the cockpit, the problems with aligning the cockpit and the darn glare shield - no wonder the canopy was sitting all wrong. So, another first for me, shimming the canopy base: Next I glued the engine nucleus to the wing - another nightmare of a short run kit - there is practically no way to do that with all the parts if perfect alignment. My best friend for this build - Perfect Plastic Putty - was very handy here as well. Had gone through several putty-filling-cleaning-cursing cycles It was time now to glue the wings - I had to hold them in my hands and squeeze in just the right angle in order to minimize the gap at the wing root - for quite a while. No combination of clips/rubber/clamp would to the work. The mono-bloc tail planes were no stroll in the park either with just a microscopic pin as locator turned hinge. Did I say short run? @@#$@#$ Starting to look like an airplane. Time to start painting !! I'm trying to use this guys advise on NMF - Natural Metal Finish in 9 EASY steps - scale modeling tutorial Started with fixing a way to hold the model - a model on a (2) squewers: I really liked the tip to use "hot' primer as the plastic of this kit is brittle and the paints I used so far were very easy to chip off. I cleaned with alcohol and then sprayed Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 black. I had to thin it a little with Mr. Leveling thinner in order to shot: Following the black base I re-shot the Model Master 4851 Yellow Zinc Chromate and after some study of pictures (and the IsraDecal site) selected Tamiya XF-66 Light Gray for the radome, spine and some other parts. And that was it for a week/end full of bench time. Comments are welcomed as usuall Best Ran
  6. Pushing further along this short-run build. Painted the engine exhausts - after having to scratch two of the four small PE parts. I cut some of the PE fret itself and used Tamyia X10 Gun Metal. Found out these can be added after closing the engine pods - which help a lot with getting that NMF look. (Sorry about the quality of the picture) The engine nucleus was a teaser and closing the fuselage itself was a nightmare - as expected. No pins or any other location aid what so ever. Attaching the cockpit to one side of the fuselage WITHOUT any location pins/structures did not go that well and proved lethal to the prospect of the two fuselage parts matching easily. This resulted in the following: The windshield contributed it own part to the mess. I had to add some shims: and then cut them, add some putty (my trusted Perfect Plastic Putty) and file, file, file. The rudder was damaged in the box (one part of the fuselage had a clip upper rudder) and I had to add the missing part with styrene sheets and cut/file them to size. The bottom part kind of looks OK: Started with the canopy masking - a PITA of its own kind in 1/72: That's it for the weekend. Comments are welcomed as always. BR Ran
  7. Slowly pushing forward. The trick with the masking fluid and the wheel hubs worked - well sort of. The masking did allow for nice silver painting of the hubs BUT removing the mask also removed parts of the black / tire paint. It looks like the kit's plastic demands a primer and painting directly on plastic is of no good. I had to touch up the wheels with a paintbrush Putting together the engine nucleus was a real pain as there are NO pins or other location marks. Plastic is brittle, the resin part does not fit well and the structure does not allow pressure to be easily applied on the parts. These will require some putty and smoothing work before NMF paint. I also started with the fuselage as well - not looking forward to this at all. Cockpit/Front LG bay and then Rear LG bay. Fit is not that good. Paint does not stick to the plastic (will need major primer stage before NMF). That's it - for a quick non-weekend bench time Best Ran
  8. It's been a long while since I discovered I'm missing that part - more then 6 month. I've been busy during this time - with the Sea King and the A-26B mostly. I managed to get someone in Japan to quote me that part but as it turned out the part+shipping would have costed more then what I payed for the kit originally. I needed some rest from the short run Vautour I'm building so I though I'd look again at the Typhoon. Re-examining the missing part I decided to try and scratch the darn piece. I mean it can't get worse and if I fail I can always try and depict a damaged plane. So - here goes, step by step: Measuring and eye-balling: That's the missing part: I need a bulkhead - use the opposite part: Install the bulkhead and support tabs: Check the cockpit still fits in: For aircraft skin I used two thin plasticard sheets, cut to size and bent over a circular object: Done: Verify with the canopy on: Looks good enough - and the build is officially back on track Comments are welcomed as usual. Best Ran
  9. Thanks @825 As for the air-brakes - I'm holding, I'm holding. Ran
  10. A quick update. So far I'm successful battling the "air-brakes AMS". I'm afraid I'll ruin the plastic and will have to source a new kit - with shipping times very long and costly. Pushing forward: Cockpit: Yellow stripes done with Mig Oilbrusher Ammo Yellow. Landing gear: Note the bend on the upper part - making it ready to the crouching stance I'm looking to depict. While at it I noticed I put the small braces in the MLG wheel bay in the wrong position (instructions are notional at best) That's it Best Ran
  11. @VG33 Thank you very much for the pictures. This certainly tickled my AMS nerve. I now have to think if I'm up to it vs. the time limit and the chance to ruin the model and its NMF. This is gonna be a tough one I did ask my father and he recalls the interior was indeed painted with Yellow Zinc Chromate that was a standard base paint used as an anti corrosion base layer. Interior parts where not covered with cammo paint and left yellow. Best Ran
  12. Patric - thanks. My Dad's first question was also about the speed brakes. Do you have any pictures on how you went about adding the open speed brakes?. Looking at your build I'm not sure I'm up to that level of mastery but I sure would like to see how you did it Best Ran
  13. So... With the Sea King done (still need to update the build report with final images) and the A-26B done as well (here too some update of the build report is due) I'm off to my next build. The Hasegawa Typhoon is still stuck - looking for a missing part (PART J4, right side panel, front of cockpit is missing - if you have a spare J4, or can send me a photo with scale I will be very very happy) So - next build will be a new one. As my father's 77th birthday is coming up, I had an idea. My father was a mechanic with Squadron 119, IAF back in the end of the 50's and beginning of the 60's. He spent time working on the squadron's Vautour II N's. One day he was showing the cockpit to one of the new mechanics recently assigned to the squadron. The new guy was sitting in the front seat while my father was perched on the ladder showing him the different dials and knobs. At one point he was pointing to the Landing Gear lever telling the guy - 'You see this - never ever touch this one' and while saying that - accidentally moved it. All of a sudden this hissing noise was very noticeable and the front MLG started to retract. Luckily there was only a small amount of hydraulic pressure in the system and the MLG only retracted part of the way and not completely. As it happens with many aviation related mishaps - there were a number of malfunctions that contributed to this event - hydraulic pressure left in the system, rear MLG (the Vautour had 2 MLGs one behind the other) had a faulty WOW switch (that switch should have shut down hydraulics on the ground completely). The only damage to the plane was due to a tow bar that was connected to the front MLG and raise up as the MLG collapsed - to hit the front of the A/C. My dads punishment was to be re-assigned to the depot maintenance team - to help them fix the A/C. So, my idea was to build a Vautour II N as a birthday present. I had this idea quite a while ago so I already have the Azur 1/72 - the only one I can find. Its the IDF package - so I have markings of his squadron: I knew it a short run and I'm just returning to the hobby - this is why the project was not started for his 73/74/75/76th birthday I was not sure if I'm ready for a short run, and following the Sea King I was not eager for another 1/72 - but he is not getting younger. So I started some two weeks ago. I'm sure its not the worst short run you can find, and it does have resin and PE, but - its a pain. Plastic is soft. Gate are HUGE and looks like someone had gone into a lot of effort to make sure they are located at the worst possible location on the parts. Part breakdown is also something that induces a lot of 4-letter-words. I could not find a spare canopy or a vacuform one - so the kit will be presented with the cockpit closed. A bit of a shame considering the story above - but considering the detail level of the cockpit - not that bad. I started with the cockpit - no pins, for most parts - no location guides and hardly any useful information on where exactly to locate parts - A short run !@#@#$@$ Cockpit painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black, Seats with Mr. Color 320 Green FS34092 which I eye balled from ref. pictures. Harness were painted Tamyia X-14 Sky blue - also eye balled from ref. images. The engine nucleus has a small balancing wheel - the wheel well part is too short and leaves a hole which I filled with putty. Wheel well doors have hinges - small, not identical and easily broken - I had to re-manufacture one. I cut a thin piece of a spruce (the oval one on the left) then cut it in half and cut some parts to create a kind of crescent. I opted to skip the micro sized resin hinges of the side doors. Of course all hinges have to glues with minimal to no location guides - did I say Short RUN @#@#$@#. Good reference is not that easy to come by - but I think the IAF birds had a yellow chromate paint for wheel wells. I used Model Master 4851 Yellow Zinc Wheels were glues (no that easy with this plastic) and painted black. I then used a new technique I learned for painting the hubs. After studying the structure of the wheel and the ref pictures (the rim between the tyre and core is painted silver/aluminum) I covered the black part with Microscale Micro Mask. Doing so I used the surface tension of the liquid mask to hug the rim. The different parts that comprise the cockpit and front MLG wheel well have to be glues ONLY AFTER a massive dry fit exercise- otherwise there is no chance to nail the exact location. So - that's it for now. Comment, war stories about this kits (or others) are welcomed as always. Best Ran
  14. Just a quick update Painting the 2nd patches turned out to be a mixed experience. It's the first time I do something like that (masking that late, complex shape and one drawn from the instructions) and I was happy The results on the other hand - sucked and the kit became a 9 feeter. There is a reason why I did not put here closer pictures This completely zeroed my mojo for this build. I pushed forward with decaling, adding all the small items and some additional detail (darn 'one true scale'). Here's a spoiler for the completed build - I will add some more details and photos later this week.
  15. Quick look - after removing the masks. This will only require some minor touch ups and looks good enough from far enough Ran