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Ran

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About Ran

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    Israel

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  1. So - what have I been doing with this build for the past .... 2 !!! month??? I'm building this spitfire together with another one - an old Fujimi build. When I got to dealing with the exhausts - I decided to do them together. Starting point: Drilling the pipes and putting some strip styrene to simulate the welding seam: Silver base painting and then some brown/black wash and then some Mr. Aqueous Hobby H10 copper. Then it was time for the engine block. Every now and then I get to read a 'in the box" or "build" review that says - "with XX parts, the engine/cockpit/what ever is a build in it self". I usually think highly on kits that have a high level of detail and would prefer such a kit over others with less details. Well - this kit's engine is indeed a build in it self - and after working in it for a couple of weeks - I feel tired and in need of mojo re-charge as it I just build a full kit I all started very easy. I tried to follow the kits instructions and paint instructions. It looked weird - as most Merlin's I've seen are black while the kit's instructions call for shades of Gray. The plastic is a nag - hard but brittle. I did add some wires and plastic - but just a few. It looked OK but well - not very much. Then I came across the following YouTube clips and my AMS kicked in big time. Building the engine bay from the 1/48 ICM Spitfire Mk.IX ICM Spitfire Mk. XVI || 1/48 || S/Ldr Otto Smik || Step by step || Full video build Spitfire Mk.XVI || ICM 1/48 || part 1 - Engine and fuel tank || Step by step video build || Tamiya 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IXc I'm not as capable as these guys - and as mad So I added some more bits and parts and painted the entire engine black and when on from there: Final result: So - I need to recharge before I go on to the cockpit - another build by it self. Ran
  2. Dan Great and inspiring build. How did you make the mask for the Dark Sea Gray? Ran
  3. You know how it is - building beats writing every time. At least for me. I'be been doing some building but was not able to bring myself to sit down and write. So here goes. This is a very basic kit - to say the least. It's also adorned with flash, ill-placed gates and very soft plastic. I did spend some time painting the pilot figure - which I will put this time (first) as the cockpit is just .... when - empty. I did add some scratch behind the "cockpit" bulkhead - as it can be seen even through the close canopy The cockpit is not wide enough to sit tight in the fuselage - resulting in a very low stance - or a very very short pilot: Dealing with the various seems was not that easy as the soft plastic makes the allignment of parts a problem. This time I opted to use liquid mask instead of masking tape for the canopy - mainly due to its small size and Very pronounced frame. Pre shading: I then moved my attention to the exhaust stacks. I'm working on these together with the stacks of the other spitfire I'm building. Drilling: Base painting with Silver/Aluminum: The pinkish hue is just due to lighting. Following a heavy brown wash of oil paint. Still not happy with that. I could also use help with how to drill these pesky small stacks. Till next time Ran
  4. Thanks @billn53 and @Christer A
  5. Model is completed - finding some time to update. After the mottling work I painted the black nose: Model was airbrushed with Alclad II Aqua Gloss Clear and then washed with Ultimate weathering wash - for the first time. Found the black stuff was always on the button of the bottle regardless of how many times I shook it. It was easier to work with compared with the Florry wash I use most of the time but it did tend to smear more on the flat surfaces. all in all positive experience. Next came the decals - worked great and there were not many of those. I always have my doubts when in comes to the Luftwaffe swastika - not opening that discussion. This time I decided to check an new alternative. I'll see how I feel with it on the shelf for a while. The arrows on the nose worked like charm - a good surprise. Then it was time for landing gear (great engineering), wheels, external fuel tank, doors, steps: https://i.imgur.com/JoZtwkXm.jpg Some Alclad Klear Kote, pealing the canopy mask and cleaning a bit and ... its done. Some pictures: Well - a nice little kit. Highlights: - First time mottling in 1/48 - looks passable. - First time wiring behind the IP - Problems with white primer - First time using Ultimate Airbrush thinner - great experience shooting Model Master paints - including control over pre-shading coverage. - First time using Ultimate wash - good enough to continue experimenting - A new alternative to the swastika - let's see how it sits with me - Fastest build so far Comments are welcomed as always. Ran
  6. Today I tackled the mottling scheme of decal option #1. It's a wiffer, as the rest of the options. I've used a template: Diluted the Model Master 4784 RLM 75 with Ultimate airbrush thinner and went to work. I thought its gonna be a bit problem to avoid getting a 'template' look for the mottle - but I'm happy with that I've got. There are 2-3 places where I botched it - but I'm not sure if I really want to re-paint and re-mottle. Its a wiffer anyway. That's it for today. Ran
  7. With the Typhoon finally done its time to pick the next build. I recently listed my entire stash (who's size is a well kept secret) to ScaleMates. One of the nice things about that is I now have some statistics. It turns out the most popular kit in my stash is ..... Spitfire - 9 kits of different models. I looked up my work room stash and noticed a pair of Spitfires - a Fujimi one and an ICM. A double-build came to mind but when I open the kits and cleaned them up it became very clear that these are way too different to allow that. The Fujimi is a 80' era, ~20 so parts, very crude and simple and rumor has it it's not even 1/48. The ICM on the other parts has probably the most detailed 1/48 spitfire out there with lots of parts and options. So, it won't be a double-build but I will try to start them together and see how it goes. You can follow up on the Fujimi build here. The ICM kit is quite detailed: It's also heavily covered with mold grease. I soaked it for a while but think I need to re-do that.
  8. With the Typhoon finally done its time to pick the next build. I recently listed my entire stash (who's size is a well kept secret) to ScaleMates .One of the nice things about that is I now have some statistics. It turns out the most popular kit in my stash is ..... Spitfire - 9 kits of different models. I looked up my work room stash and noticed a pair of Spitfires - a Fujimi one and an ICM. A double-build came to mind but when I open the kits and cleaned them up it became very clear that these are way too different to allow that. The Fujimi is a 80' era, ~20 so parts, very crude and simple and rumor has it it's not even 1/48. The ICM on the other parts has probably the most detailed 1/48 spitfire out there with lots of parts and options. So, it won't be a double-build but I will try to start them together and see how it goes. You can follow up on the ICM build here.  The Fujumi is VERY simple:
  9. Back to order. I left the last regular update with the MLG doors prepared for painting. I played around with some paints to pick some of the elements in the MLG bay: I then focused my attention on the cockpit - with the kit's supplied seat belt in PE. IP emphasized by dry brushing with silver pencil, various knobs picked up with yellow and red. As the IP does not come flush with windshield and hence its back part is somewhat visible I allowed for some AMS: Then it was time to pack it all - not forgetting to put some weight up front: Primer followed - and you've all read about that. I decided to pre-shade instead of re-applying the primer. It turns our my airbrush was in series need for cleaning - as is apparent from that shady performance of pre-shading. Lucky for me I received UMP primer I ordered a while ago. Hefty price and shipping - but boy does it work smooth. I used Model Master 4785 RLM 75 and it did shoot smoothly although I should have used some lower pressure to get more control. Preparing for the 'mottle challenge' ahead. Comments are welcomed as always. Best Ran
  10. Thanks @Corsairfoxfouruncle As this kit was picked up off eBay I assume the decals are O L D and were not kept in good condition through their life. It either this or they were cursed @@#$ I had to soak them for long time in warm water and then dislodge them from the paper backing with my finger applying firm but even side pressure. As the decals are thick I was able to do that without ripping them apart. Ran
  11. Well .... its been almost two and a half months since the last update. The build is done - as I spent all available time building and none writing So here comes.... Last time I updated - the yellow stripes were drying in preparation to painting. My first move was painting the underside. After sifting through my paint warehouse I opted for PolyScale 505346 Isreal Gray. This is not exaclty what the paint scheme calls for but I do have a bunch of these and wanted to use them. As part of the work was done during the night - it was no surprise that I forgot to pre-shade @#@#$# So my next step was pre-shading - and I had a lot of fun with the Tamyia X-18 Semi-gloss black. I managed to dillute it just right and the airbrush was clean and the stars were aligned and it shoot straight and smooth. Next came the base layer of the scheme - Tamyia XF-22 RLM Gray was selected. The airbrush gods smiled again I was able to cover easily and still maintain the effect of the pre-shading: Next was the green. I scaled up and then printed the paint scheme, cut and placed the parts on the model. As it turns out - the scheme on the different views (top, side) in the instructions does not really match, and some creative stitching was needed. When it came to painting - I spent hours trying to match the Mr. Hobby 307 using a lot of internet research. Could not find a match or even a close enough replacement. This led me to re-search the paint stock - and there it was - a single bottle of Mr. Color 307. Again I was lucky as far as airbrushing and the paint shoot like a dream. And the magical moment when the mask goes off: I tried to use a Florry Wash on the underside - but it was just a disaster and opted instead for a Tamyia+Future+Water one, which gave better results. for the top side the white Florry Wash worked like a charm: I was starting to gear up for decaling - and noticed to my surprise that the white part of the invation stripes needs to be painted `) So here goes with a Tamiya White: In-spite of the protecting masking - some over-spray did make its way to the model. Forgetting to paint the white stripes was the first sign of losing the mojo of this build. The instrument panel decal went down very easy on the beginning of the build and nothing prepared me for what's next. I started with the wing roundels. Cut them carefully, filled up the little water tab, put them in, waited for a couple of minutes and tried to place them. Nada - won't budge from the paper. Waited, waited and waited some more. Nothing. Started to get wee weed off, started to read about stuck decals, started to search the net for aftermarket decal sheets that can be shipped fast and cheap (none ) Just before I decided to trash the kit to the wall - I decided to try another decal. Cut of the black strips and put them in the water. After a long while I decided to change to hot water and after some more minutes them black strips started to respond to my increasingly more insisting pushing and shoving. To cut a very long story short - all decals came off eventually, the roundels just minutes before I decided to paint the darn thing. It took me three 1.5h sittings. The main problem is that the decals showed this very strange phenomena after being put on the model: This improved only marginally after a lot of Micro Sol. Some of them became very sensitive to touch: But all in all most of them did the job right - just killed what was left of my mojo for this build completely off. Then came the landing gears, then came the stores, then came the canopy making off and a bunch of more. And it was time to call it a day !!! Some quick previews to the Ready for Inspection: Comments are welcomed Ran
  12. @roginoz thanks. What do you use for pressure? nozzle? Ran
  13. Thanks @Sturmovik, the layer seems thick and I only added 4-5 drops of alcohol to a third of the cup (probably 2ml) of primer. Does anyone know if this primer as a shelf life limit? can it go "bad"? Ran
  14. Hi, This is an out-of-order update. I did not have time to log in the progress for the last two weeks - but I will. I did tried to prime today and got horrible results - which I would like some help with. I'm using Stynylrez, the white one this time. I thinned it just a bit with 70% Alcohol and sprayed it through my Grex 0.4 at about 18-22psi. Here's what I got - the primer does not look like it covers or sticks to the plastic at all: So - any insights? advice? Best Ran
  15. @Marklo thanks. My taste also lies with WW II props although some 50-60 jets can be found in the stash as I also like very much that golden age of aeronautics. It is claimed that the Ta-183 design did influence Russian post-war jets (Mig-15) and others as well (Saab-29). Ran
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