Simple scratch-built seatbelts

[Ant]

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Edited March 9, 2011 by Ant

[Muller]

Excellent tutorial! I make my buckes from winefoil and they look crap! Thanks for this, I'll try this method on my next WW2 build.

[Takamota]

Certainly look the part. Good job.

[Karl]

I too make mine from foil, they're not too bad - but not as good as these.

Like this one

Karl

Edited October 7, 2008 by Karl

[Ant]

Thanks chaps, much appreciated.

I have tried various foils in the past, and while they hold their shape better, and can look more fabric like, I find it takes me longer to make them and I have to completely paint them which also takes longer and hasn't produced results I'm as happy with as these. Also, unless you're using lead foil, the metal ones are more springy than the tape and need more of a fight to get into shape and stick down, resulting in (for me anyway) lots of unwanted splats of CA glue.

Edited October 7, 2008 by Ant

[John Laidlaw]

Ant,

Marvellous, thank you!

[zeke]

First class instructions there Ant...thank you very much...

[AnonymousDFB1]

Very good this thread needs pinning I think.

[Stebos]

I second that, those look excellent!

Probably overkill for a 1/72 closed canopy, but I'll give this a try next time I'm doing an open.

Thanks for sharing.

[dswoofie]

Aha! That looks like a fantastic way of making the belts. I'll have to give that one a try!

Thanks for posting that one up Ant!

Karl.

[Greg B]

Good enough to be pinned!

[Ant]

Good enough to be pinned!

Well there's a first for me! Thanks Guys, glad to be of service.

Shame I'm utterly rubbish at building the rest of the aircraft!

[alex]

they look really good! I do it the same way, except for the adjuster buckle. But I think, I short start doing it, it adds some realism..

Alex

[Angels49]

Is this a great forum or what, I don't know about others but damn!!!...I'm very glad and happy to be here. Thanks Ant you and the other modellers who share your tips and instructions make this a truly great forum to be a member of, and Thank you Mike for giving making it possible.

[Maxidad]

I didn't know this was pinned here - saw it over on Phil's site.

I used this technique recently on a Los P-37a I am currently struggling with. It worked a treat - this is one of the most useful tips I've read on any modelling site. Nice one

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Top idea - love the way you do the adjustment buckle.

BTW if you use a triangular needle file to wind the wire round to make the end peices you get a shape that looks a lot like many WW2 belts.

Nice one

jonners

[Ant]

Thanks chaps! Much appreciated.

[dr_gn]

Great 'how to', thanks.

I made some (historically inaccurate) belts using your method for my Spitfire rebuild. It was difficult to fit them, because the model was already assembled, but they make a big improvemet IMO.

Took just 1/2 hour to make them following your guide!

Cheers,

Dr_GN

[Murdo]

Great 'how to', thanks.

I made some (historically inaccurate) belts using your method for my Spitfire rebuild. It was difficult to fit them, because the model was already assembled, but they make a big improvemet IMO.

Took just 1/2 hour to make them following your guide!

Cheers,

Dr_GN

The thing is mate, most people will look at them and say "Wow! Nice! Well done!" Ignore everyone else.

[dr_gn]

The thing is mate, most people will look at them and say "Wow! Nice! Well done!" Ignore everyone else.

To be honest, I think I'll be the only one looking at them - and they're just fine by me!

Cheers.

[AdriaN (MLT)]

I tried maing seat belts for a 1;48 once. Came good but very innacurate! its tough cos everything is so small. toughest part is... bending the wire!

[dr_gn]

I tried maing seat belts for a 1;48 once. Came good but very innacurate! its tough cos everything is so small. toughest part is... bending the wire!

Bending the wire was fine - cutting it to form the loops was difficult for me.

If you think my belts are inaccurate...you should see my gunsight :-(

[Veltro]

I tried maing seat belts for a 1;48 once. Came good but very innacurate! its tough cos everything is so small. toughest part is... bending the wire!

Try heating the wire gently first. You'll find it makes it much more malleable. I use one of those culinary butane powered blowlamps that chefs use to glaze sugar.

Works a treat. I use it for pre-heating brass rod and etched parts.

I got mine from Lakeland. It's a bit pricey, around £15-£20 if I recall, but well worth it. A tin of Swan butane lighter fuel is only a couple of quid and lasts ages. You only need to heat it until the wire glows. Too much and it'll melt it.

Here you go.....

http://www.lakeland.co.uk/professional-blo...mp/product/1882

Edited December 24, 2009 by Veltro

[dr_gn]

Try heating the wire gently first. You'll find it makes it much more malleable. I use one of those culinary butane powered blowlamps that chefs use to glaze sugar.

Works a treat. I use it for pre-heating brass rod and etched parts.

I got mine from Lakeland. It's a bit pricey, around £15-£20 if I recall, but well worth it. A tin of Swan butane lighter fuel is only a couple of quid and lasts ages. You only need to heat it until the wire glows. Too much and it'll melt it.

Here you go.....

http://www.lakeland.co.uk/professional-blo...mp/product/1882

Duly noted. Thanks for the tip.

[robw_uk]

am going to make 1.72 harness for the Hellcat I am on now... but WOW these are sweet.... was going to use wine-bottle foil for the straps themselves - think masking tape will be way too fiddly @ 1/72 - probably looking at <1mm wide by 5mm long (loop up over a bar above the seat.....) wont even try the buckles......