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dr_gn last won the day on April 4 2015

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  1. dr_gn


    Deleted - Not the wanted area.
  2. Thanks for that, I have seen it before. The trouble using other models as a reference is that I'd end up duplicating mistakes. On that particular example there are numerous errors, such as the large fuel tank covers panels under the wings, the tailcone and the nose gun magazine doors are are depicted in aluminium, when they should be wood. Also, I believe on that variant, the rudder should be fabric. I don't think the panels are divided correctly either - and it's the wrong wood colour and grain, but apart from that....
  3. I know... Then again, it hasn't worked yet...
  4. Casting progress here if you're interested: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234983064-release-agent-removal/ If it works, you should have them in about a week.
  5. So since Cheshiretaurus' method seemed like the least work I went with that. I made a couple of additions though - I've added a steel spigot into the the top of the cowl opening, so that it'll have some positive radial location, and I also added a couple of plastic risers, which I'll somehow route to form vents for the excess resin. If the above doesn't work I can easily blank them off and try again I guess. I also thought I'd try to cast an engine and the gills, these will need some post-cast fettling, but better than nothing hopefully. It's at this point I had a crisis of confidence reg
  6. CT - Thanks for that. My biggest concern is using mould release agent on a part I will need to subsequently paint. Instead of spraying with release agent, couldn't I paint the RTV with vaseline or whatever, and leave the original plastic pattern totally untouched? Another Idea I had was to spray the part with acrylic, then once the castings are done, strip the paint off with brake fluid or modelstrip hopefully taking the release agent with it? Comments appreciated... Ta.
  7. Yes, as I said in the first post, the intention was to use both. I'd use decals on the vast majority of the airframe, with oils on maybe the tailcone and access hatches.
  8. Thanks Keith, I have that website in my reference links.
  9. Thanks guys. I think the issue with the cast-solid-and-drill-out method may be that to get the wall thickness right by drilling, it would be just as difficult to do without breaking the part as trying to cast it. Plus it would be difficult to get the inside of the compound curved collector ring to be the same thickness as the rest of the cowl. Not saying it wouldn't work, and I may well end up doing this or similar.
  10. Thanks guys. I'm wanting to replicate this cowl: I'm thinking of moulding it in two parts as per the middle image above. i've come up with this scheme for making a two piece mould for the cowl (presumably I can't do this in one-shot, since the overhang of the collecter ring is too much to pop the original/castings out? First I'd build a cylindrical or square box (A), then make a spigot which is a tight fit in the end hole, and would rest on the bottom of the box. I'd then pour silicone around the outside of this assembly level with the top of the cowl and leave to set. Once set, I'd
  11. Guys, If I'm using an existing plastic part as a mould, what is the best release agent to use (for silicone moulds) and how do I remove it completely so that I can still paint the original part? Thanks.
  12. Without wanting to sidetrack the thread too much : I got the Beaufighter today. The cowls are in 3 pieces; a collector ring and two curved pieces that form the cowling sides. So question is what is the best way to cast them? I can assemble them with pva temporarily if necessary. Also what is the best release agent to use that can be removed? I'm sure I'll figure it out but if anyone's done it before, no point in reinventing the wheel. Ta. ETA Here are some images - there are two types of collector ring. I think I will have to cast them in two pieces - the cooling gill ring and an assembly of
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