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Ant

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About Ant

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    Slave to the sanding stick
  • Birthday 04/13/1973

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    Swinetown, Wiltshire

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  1. I use a coat of acid etch primer to make sure the paint sticks (available from Halfords etc).
  2. Scans from the original kit instructions ... http://www.matchboxkits.org/product_info.php?products_id=674
  3. great kits from this chap

  4. Guys - Both Phil Flory (Flory Models) and Jay Lavertey (Scale Aircraft Modelling) have tested the new UK formula of Klear and, although having a different smell, is less viscous and has a horrible milky colour, found it to be just as good as the old formula. I haven't tried it myself (still have 6 bottles of the original to get through [D'oh]) but the results looked pretty good to me.
  5. I'm wondering if you have filled the panel lines with your clear coats, thus not giving the wash anything much to sink into?
  6. "... I also used some figure painting techniques and added highlights and shadows along the ribs on the fuselage and upper edges to represent sunlight falling on the model." Any chance you could explain a little more how you did that?
  7. Oddly enough, I'm not a huge fan of spraying with Model Air, but I love brush painting with them, especially their dark greys for detail painting in cockpits etc. It's thinned to just the right consistency that I like so I can literally put a drop down and paint straight away. I do use a lot of their model colour paints, but now that I've discovered my love of brush painting the model air variety, I'm not sure I'll be buying any more.
  8. Ant

    Klear

    I've just dipped the canopy in IPA in the past, did the job easily.
  9. They did indeed include a horrible piece of plastic to represent the canvas strap. I made a replacement out of tape and wire ... Here's what the actual thing looked like ...
  10. Ant

    Cleaning Fluid

    All depends on what sort of paints you're running though it. For most acrylics, something IPA based is good, but be aware that IPA turns some acrylics into gloop! For enamels, white spirit should do the trick. For lacquer based paints (e.g. alclad, Mr. Color etc) you'll need something lacquer based. Essentially use what ever you thinned the paint with in the first place + something to really give the stubborn paints a kick. Liquid reamer or Badger airbrush cleaners in a spray can are both excellent for this although contain some nasty horrible chemicals.
  11. Ant

    Priming Etch

    I use U-POL Etch primer and it seems to have solved problems I've had in the past with paint occasionally flaking off when manipulating painted etch. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...tegoryId_165625
  12. Ant

    Hawk metal u/c legs

    I'll add mine name to the list of those wanting a set.
  13. Acrylic washes are good for all-over type washes e.g. for figures or applications of dirt. The problem with acrylics is they dry too quickly and are difficult to selectively remove. As mentioned above, I'd either try a sludge wash (the ground up pastel chalk method) or get yourself some of the promodeller washes (dark dirt is excellent for emphasising panel lines) www.promodeller.com. They come ready mixed and are easy to apply and remove, giving excellent results. You'll really struggle to go wrong with them. Another alternative is to use artists oil paints, (panes grey is a good one) heavily thinned with white spirit / turps / lighter fluid! The great thing about oils is the slow drying time allows you to slap it on (or carefully flow it along panel lines), leave it an hour, and remove the excess with a cotton bud slightly moistened with white spirits. Provided you have applied a cured coat of future (klear) the underlying paint should be fine.
  14. Have you run a search on the forum or read through any of the many airbrush threads?
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