Jump to content

Karl

Members
  • Content Count

    1,250
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Karl

  1. You're doing a great job with your X wing, Can you tell me what type/make of paint you are using on this Bandai kit? I have a few Bandai kits in my stash but I'm worried about the affect that some type of paint have on the plastic. Karl
  2. Thank you for pointing out my spelling/grammar mistake I'll try to do better next time Karl
  3. Very nice build. Wish Fine moulds (or Bandai) would have done a 1/48 scale version to go with the X-Wing and TIE. Karl
  4. Hi Chaps, As per the title, does any one know what date Revell are releasing the Bandai 1/72 PG Millennium Falcon? Cheers Karl
  5. This is my model of Revell's 1/52 T-47 Snow Speeder. I picked this kit up whilst I was looking for either the old AMT Snow Speeder or Bandai's new version and thought I'd give it a whirl. It's quite a mall kit of what is really a small full size subject. The kit is of the snap-fit type so no glue is required, although I did secure all of the joints with glue and especially around the periphery of the fuselage. The fit is very good and the parts are nicely detailed with some quite finely engraved panel lines. The pilot and gunner required a bit of work to slim the arms dow
  6. LoL!! - Yes I noticed the evil expression on C3-P0's face! However, I think that was made worse by the lighting I used for the photographs; lit from only above (no flash) it gives him a really hooded brow that looks so evil. The later pictures I took I used a flash that reduced the hooded look somewhat. I to think that the head is a tad oversize - looks worse when close up. Karl
  7. Here is my completed MPC / ERTL - C3-P0 As with R2-D2, this was a blast from the past, getting to have another go at building a kit I first did in the late 1970's was good fun. As I had two kits in the box, I used an extra arm and gave it the option of being able to have the 'red arm' as seen in the later films. The red colour is a mixture of Humbrol 100 (Red Brown) and 19 (Bright Red) painted over the black undercoat. Again, I've kept C3-P0 fairly clean, but not too bright to make it toy like. The eyes were painted yellow with black pupils, and the wiring o
  8. Last update before completion! As C3-P0 is gold in colour, the best undercoat for that is a smooth coat of black paint. I've used Halfords satin bumper black spray paint. I think he looks quite good as a 'Stealth' protocol droid! Next to be sprayed is the Alclad II 'Pale Gold' - to be revealed in the RFI post!! Karl
  9. That looks really good. I build one for my father a few years ago, and, as you say it doen't really represent the Actic Corsair so I tried to scratch build the double dridge and varuius other changes with varying degrees of success... Karl
  10. This is what I keep hearing that Humbrol enamel gloss black is the way to go, so I don't understand why it wrinkled on mine. Unless it had to do with the fact that I used Halfords grey primer under the gloss black and then the Alclad. Karl
  11. I Completely agree, there is just something special about these older kits where I'm happy to go the extra mile during building and painting. Karl
  12. I'm sure that is a real size bike...... ...amazing work!! Karl
  13. More progress on C3-P0. It has to be said that this is a fairly simple kit, so building C3-P0 was a fairly quick process. Most of the time was spent cleaning up the old joints and filling in any gaps or replacing broken or missing parts. I decided to remove the moulded in restraining bold on his chest. The original kit used moulded in hooks at the ends of the arms and head (like an old fashion doll) to allow for articulation of the joints. These had all broken off in my kit so I installed some plast
  14. Hi chaps, I'm working on my 1970's Kenner C3-P0 and planning to paint it using Alclad II Gold, however I'm struggling with what undercoat to use. Question: Has anyone used Halfords Gloss black as an undercoat for Alclad II ?? I've been looking and reading various tips and tricks but I thought I would ask to. The Gold needs a gloss black undercoat. I prime my models using Halfords standard car body grey primer - an acrylic that needs cellulose thinners to clean up and I can over paint this with Humbrol Enamels as I've been doing for years without issue.
  15. Hi Chaps, To follow on from my recent R2-D2 build I've started on R2's counterpart; C3-P0. Again this kit dates from around 1978 and is the MPC/ERTL kit under the Kenner label and is approximately 1/8th scale. The kit was purchased as a part started model (two kits came in the box, one built and one in bits) so I chose the best of the parts to build one good C3-P0 and still have enough parts left over to build another C3-XY variant droid if i feel like it in the future. The first thing I did was to disassemble the built kit and go thr
  16. Thats a very nice Skyvan you have done there. Karl
  17. My R2-D2 Astromech is now completed! It was definitely a blast from the past to work on this kit again, and not quite the magical experience I remember when I was 8 or 9 years old.. There were a number of shape and detail issues with the kit that I was simply ignorant to when I built it 40 years ago. I have amended some of these (such as the top of the dome) but not all and I have left the dome chrome because I like it rather than stripping it and painting it silver to make it more accurate. Be that as it may I have enjoyed the build and have tried to do my best with a
  18. Big jump forward in progress. I have now spray painted all of the components using Halfords Appliance White and, when dry, I have painted the various arms and sensors blue using Humbrol Metallic Blue. I used the metallic blue as I had read that originally the blue components on R2D2 were made from aluminium and them painted with engineers or marking blue to give it a translucent metallic effect. Other areas were highlighted with Humbrol Silver. The back panel detail was painted and installed in to the open back of R2 On R2's head I us
  19. Spending time with my family; our son is grown up but we still manage to all get out together sometimes either for drinks or retail therapy - this is the happiest I could be. Karl
  20. Moving on a bit more with R2-D2. The axel where the legs mount on to is quite fragile in the supplied kit part and the joint to the legs looks to be quite weak. so, I have made a replacement part from thicker styrene tube and square rod. This meant I had to modify the shoulders of the leg where it joins on to the axel. This joint is a lot more robust than the kit intended but does the same job and has the same movement. Looking at some reference pictures, the feet don't look very accurate as supplied in the kit. I modified these by cutting the to
  21. Progress on the main body of "R2". After cleaning up the parts and mating faces I glued the two main body parts together and, finding that the joining surfaces appears a bit weak, I added some strengthening tabs to the inside of the body tube. Note that the tube appears a bit squashed or oval due to warpage over the years. Fortunately when the base is installed it goes back to being circular again. As I'm trying to make it a little more accurate, I'm adding some shoulders to the area where the legs attach to the body. These are just small disks glued to the
  22. I've no idea, but it was on or over quite a lot of parts; the feet, internal structure and the rear panel were worst affected. Cleaned up OK though. The main body, legs and dome and transparencies were all clear fortunately. Could have been a leaky tube of the old Britfix77 left in the box!! Karl
  23. Been working on the glue damage to the parts and panels. It looks like old style tube glue, just smeared all over the place; this has marred some of the surfaces and damaged the panel lines a bit. I'm going to sand the yellowing glue back as far as I can and then fill any damage if necessary and then re-scribe the panel lines. This is the rear inspection panel before: And then after working on it: Karl
  24. Hi chaps, I've been trawling eBay for Star Wars model kits (mostly MPC / ERTL ) kits that I used to have years ago (or I never managed to get hold of back then) and managed to come across two of my favourites - the MPC / ERTL kits of R2-D2 and C3-P0. The kit's I picked up are both part started, with the C3-P0 box actually containing two complete kits. I decided to go with part started models as a way of keeping the price down to something reasonable - untouched kits were going for prices I really wasn't willing to pay. They are both i
×
×
  • Create New...