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AdriaN (MLT)

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About AdriaN (MLT)

  • Birthday 09/21/1988

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    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcsnmjdQSEUFfnDHPskP8_Q
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Malta
  • Interests
    Modelling, airbrush, design, airshows..

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  1. Weathering done and I am very pleased with the result. Panel lines done with water colours. Staining/streaking done with artists oil paints. Finished with my favourite.... Revell Enamel Matt varnish. Gives a nice sheen & non yellowing. Aluminum was also sprayed matt since in real life the bottom side wasnt shiny nor clean!
  2. Highly recommend. you mix them with water. Drop of dish liquid is a must in order to break surface tension and to make it spread. Once dry you just rub off with tissue, leaving behind the mix in the panel lines. If you're not happy just introduce some water and it comes off. Similar to the Flory clay wash.
  3. Weeks after completing decalling, i realised i stuck on 33-FD instead of 33-FS. Luckily all what needed changing was the D->S. Painted over the D with base color, deliberately making it look like a 'touch up'. In the end the mistake is quite undetectable. The 50 from 509 got torn off by masking tape. Lucky i managed to use the 5 and 0 from the 520 decal. Panels washed using my favourites... water colours! Once dry they rub off with ease. No thinners needed. First time ever using photetch seat belts. The rubbish instructions instruct you to stick them... the wrong way round! thankfully I rotated them when the C/A glue began to harden.
  4. I have the PZL23 Karash and when going over the instructions a few times, I was also very confused with the interior colours! there doesnt seem to be a proper guide. Its also hard to find proper/coloured reference photos of interior. what colour have you decided on? same as exterior camo?
  5. Canopy masked up using Eduard masks: Black internal colour first, base coat after:
  6. they stick to the decal paper once you bring them out of the water actually. once the water starts to dry.. they will not move! on plastic i find they break easily.
  7. are the decals bad also!? tempting to buy the SuE. But maybe not Kitty Hawk. Kinetic?
  8. Some older progress. Happy with the results. But... Very disappointing decals. They are very thick, rough and matt. Secondly they are out of scale (look at roundels). They break easily and even after many gloss coats the transparent part of decal looks frosty. Its not silvering, as decals went down well. At one angle is looks painted, at another angle is turns frosty. Dont get me started on the instructions as they are a mess in terms of numbering and positioning! For some reason they inserted the same badge on the tail, when it should have 2 different badges. Give me 1970 airfix decals anytime over these
  9. Well all kits have some filling/rescribing to do. The instructions are just clumsy. For markings best look at real reference photos as positioning can be incorrect or not labelled at all. Cant understand how a new-ish kit has such bad fitting parts! The 2 halfs of the wheels dont even fit in place and the fitting reference points need to be removed. Ooh yes and the decals are extremely thick! Youll see my post soon... I wonder if the single seat will have the same issues?
  10. On a positive note. Very happy with the tail. Possibly 1 of few stages of this kit that went well! Blue & white are revell acrylic, Red is Vallejo. NO PEELING!
  11. Blue-Grey was sprayed using Agama acrylics. They dry quick and spray on nice and thin. But.....last time i'll ever use Agama acrylic. A very weak paint and even with a primer coating and many layers of Klear.. it peels off under any sticky tape or blutac. But its not just the sticky parts of the tape that lift the paint off, but it even gets stuck the the sides of the tape. On numerious occasions I hade to hand paint these patches. The problem it posed was a slightly bumpy finish, but trickiest of all was getting the right shade used during post shading since paint was lightened on the spot.
  12. Not at all impressed with this kit!!! Fittings are not good at all. Gaps, misalignments, hopeless & badly labelled, misleading instructions! Loads of filler to correct misalignments & gaps. Sadly lost some detail and rescribing was a disaster. Instructions give you the numbers of incorrect jet intakes. This B version has 1 identification light on the left, but the instructions tell you to insert the intakes with the lamps on both side. While it snubbed off the correct intakes from the instructions! thank god i realised before painting and filled it in. Model looking neat after a good coating of Mr surfacer 1200 primer & a light sanding. I found low psi (15) is best for this primer.... not 20-30 psi. High psi fumigates the room and comes out very rough.
  13. Old progress shots of the Mirage. Till now very happy with the overall results... But as stated in another post, its very disappointing kit. Most parts dont fit well at all, loads of trimming to be done beforehand and filling. Parts simply dont line up - example the 2 wheel halfs. Incorrect placing of panels. Instructs you to stick on the incorrect intake, but correct intake was snubbed off- realised just before painting. Seatbelts on instructions were placed the wrong way round. Very clumsy & careless instructions. Badly labelled & oversized decals, some decals had no numbers etc etc.
  14. @vppelt68I am maltese and this is an interesting build! pity i dont have any Malta ww2 aircraft. My stash are all malta related... but post war
  15. Steve, which re-boxing was your Ouragan kit? I think you got the 1988 model set boxing hence the bad decals. Mine was the 2013 Ouragan one, decals were to scale. If you wish I can send you my spare Heller 1980 Magister PAdF decals. You just need to leave them facing the sun for a few weeks as they are slightly yellow.
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