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About Karl

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    Hey, that's me!!
  • Birthday 01/07/1970

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    East Yorkshire, UK and Larnaka, Cyprus

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  1. Karl

    Photobucket images are back

    I had a look after I got the offer email, some of them are visible again but most aren't. Not sure if it's a progressive thing or what. Clicking on their banner still takes you to their $399 option page so not sure what is going on. I'd like to take their cheaper option of $19.99 per year offer but don't know if I trust them... Karl
  2. I got the same eMail from Photobucket stating that they had allowed them to bee seen again rather than the ransomware warning, however some are visible and some I still get the ransomware banner. I'm looking for a fairly stable site to host pictures I put on forums, but I'm not sure I trust Photobucket, and now Flickr and Smugmug have joined I don't know what their future holds. I don't mind paying for the service so long as it's not extortionate. Karl
  3. My latest Hawk update: The fuselage detail being added using various thicknesses of styrene sheet built up in layers. The distinctive stringers (as moulded onto the Airfix Saturn rocket kit part) are made up from numerous strips of plastic. The VTOL landing thrusters (mattress vents in the original model) are approximated using styrene rod cut in to lengths and glued to a styrene disk. These are then added to the underside of the fuselage. Some small detail part that belong to the underside being made up from various styrene parts Next - install the side booster pods. These are glued to the 'running boards' on the fuselage and supported on the side of the fuselage with a small (non standard!!) block to help support them and add a little bit of strength. The booster pods in the process of being detailed. This part was a right pain to make even though it looks simple - originally I think it was part of the inside skirt of the SRN-4 hovercraft kit from Airfix this part is placed on the running board next to the front of the booster pods. you can hardly see it... And the booster pod nose cones. Karl
  4. It been a little while since I posted an update (I had a bad cold for a couple of weeks and have been tired out for a couple more weeks after that...) but here I am again with another update on the Hawk. The next major component to build are the wing-lets and weapons pods. the wing-lets are a simple construction made from plasticard sheet, with multiple layers making up the structure and the detailing. Brass rods are used to support the wing-lets when they attach to the fuselage. The main structure of the weapons pods are made up from some spare 1/24 scale Airfix Harrier components (not sure what bit) There are also some components from a 1/48 Buccaneer; the jet pipe makes the ring around the nose tip and an unspecified part from a 1/72 Meteor was used to make a mould for the rear cone (in red resin) along with styrene sheet and tube for various parts. The actual nose of the pod was made from car body filler filed and shaped. After marking up their positions, a motor tool was used to drill out the holes around the perimeter of the nose cone (this was probably a SNEB rocket pod from the 1/24 Harrier on the studio model, however I had nothing in the spares of the appropriate size) Karl
  5. Thank you all very much for your support chaps; glad you are enjoying it so far!! Karl
  6. Time for another update; I've made quite a bit of progress, however it takes me a while to post the updates! I've being tackling some of the more difficult areas that require complex shapes or castings to be made. First up are the engine bells for the side boosters. Using the plans I have I made up a tool in the shape of the engine, I then used this to ream out a hole in in the plasticine I used as a mould. It took a couple of goes to get it right but I got there in the end. I inserted a plastic rod in to the centre of the cavity and then mixed up my resin and P38 mixture and poured this in to the mould. This gave me a solid engine bell that was almost the perfect shape. I then used my rotor tool to grind out the excess filler from the inside of the engine bell (a messy process!!) until I was happy with the shape. Finally using a circle cutter, I made a ring from sheet styrene and glue this to the open end of the bell. This then gave me a nice neat finish, any imperfections were filled and sanded back by hand. Next area - the part I'm calling the main reactor. This is the part between the main centre engine bell and the aft part of the fuselage that looks like it came out of Sellafied. I needed to make two large but shallow domes for each end and a short tube for the middle. The domes were made using my usual technique of roughing out the shape from plastic sheet and P38 filler, again being cast in plasticine from resin and P38 mixture. I did only make one cast of this part as I used the original for the second dome. Using an off cut from the cardboard tube utilised in the side boosters I made the interface between the reactor and the rear fuselage. This was plated in plastic sheet and any cavities filled with resin. All joints were smoothed over with filler. Casting.. The off centre hole in the interface is to accommodate the main steel spinal tube. The short centre tube was made from two styrene discs cut using the circle cutter and another length of cardboard tube. This was then packed out to make it solid and then a styrene outer layer was added to make everything neat. The original studio miniature part was probably made from some Airfix Saturn V part as it has the distinctive 'stringers' on the surface so I replicated this with thin lengths of styrene. The whole thing was then drilled through to accept a brass rod to strengthen everything up and to allow me to have somewhere to attach the main engine bell that was to come next. The next major area is the main engine bell. This was originally made from some parts off a now long obsolete Caddy-Matic Tea Dispenser - not much use to me even if I could find one as it would be the wrong scale but there you go. Consequently, I had to make one up as best I could. Cleaning my teeth one morning I realised that the top of the mouth wash bottle was just about perfect... so that went missing and to the cause! The top was somewhat too long and had ridges down its length, however it was about the right cone shape and had a superb engine shape moulded to the inside - I just couldn't miss it off. I cut the length of the cone down slightly and I covered the outside of the cone with very thin sheet styrene. As the mouth wash bottle top was a strange type of plastic that glue would not bond to I screwed the whole thing to a backing disk of styrene. A shallower conical shape was required next; this was made from some a tubular part I had discarded during the Eagle build, screwed and glued on to the cap and then built up with P38 filler in to a cone shape using a styrene ring to follow the shape and make a stop for the cone top. There is a fairly distinctive groove between the two cone shapes; I replicated this by filing an under cut in to the filler once it had cured. One of the more distinctive areas of the engine is what would have been the turbine exhaust manifold on the Saturn V F1 rocket motor, part way done the engine cone. To make this I added a plastic ring to the top of the wide part of the engine cone and then built up the actual manifold using white Milliput. This was mixed and rolled in to a thin sausage and wrapped around the plastic ring. Using a little water I smoothed and shaped it in to position. Not easy as I had never used Milliput for such things before - I only used it previously to secure lead shot into the nose section of tail sitting model aircraft!! Finally the end section was made from a spare engine can from a 1/48 Tornado F3 with the outer detail cut off. I am quite happy with the results of this. The cut off detail from the Tornado engine can was added to the open end of the engine cone after the screw head had been covered in a puddle of resin. This matches the detail of the mouth-wash top quite well. Finally, a picture of the progress so far, with parts lined up to their relative (but not final) positions. Karl
  7. A bit of a complex shape area is the blunt nose cone of the side boosters. I started by making the disk for both ends and the oblique side piece. These were connected together with a tube of the appropriate length and all the parts glued in to position. I then roughly filled in the sides with strips of plastic. I then taped this altogether to make it semi liquid tight. After drilling one end, I filled the cavity in with resin and P38 and allowed it to harden to make a solid shape. The outer surfaces were then filled with P38 and sanded smooth and in to shape. The next area of difficulty is the 'egg' underneath the cockpit beak. Again, I went with my usual method of construction for such things; I made the basic shape of the egg with flat styrene sheet. To try and prevent any issue with major de-lamination problems, I drilled through the egg's cross members and inserted four tubes. The idea is that when I apply the filler it will surround the tube and lock everything in to place; a sort of plastic re-enforced P38... Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures of it, however with the help of MS paint I can show the general idea; the re-enforcing tubes are represented by black lines: I then applied several layers of P38 and sanded them in to shape. This picture is part way through the sanding process: The egg is covered in panel details and I thought it would be a lot easier to add these before I attached it to the cockpit. Basic idea was to draw these out on to the egg and trace these shapes out on to styrene sheet. I then superglued these to the egg. Ideally, I would have used the egg to make a vac form egg shape and cut the panels from this. I don't have a vac forming machine but I think I'll make one at some point. The last detail on the egg is the cannon port. In the episode 'War Games' Moonbase Alpha is attacked by the Hawk's, with the Hawk's making strafing runs firing only the single canon under the cockpit. I thought this was best represented by making a port similar to the canon ports on '60 fighter aircraft like the Hawker Hunter. To do this I drilled the port out at an angle and inserted a hollow plastic tube. i then filled this and blended it in to the surface. Finally the egg was attached to the bottom of the command module beak. with epoxy resin. I then filled the edges in with more P38 and sanded to shape. Karl
  8. Not really the post man, but after seeing Steve's (Dances With Wolves) build of the 1/48 Fine Moulds Incom T65 X-Wing, my lovely wife bought me the Revell version (the one I'd seen in our local model shop just before Christmas) for my birthday - admittedly my birthday isn't until July..... but still. So, a massive 'thank you' to my wife! Karl
  9. Karl

    Is Dremel any good?

    I have a Dremel; it's great, however it's far too fast for plastic as the lowest it will run is about 6000 rpm. I need some way of slowing it down. I also have an old Wolworth's cheap and cheerful motor tool and that is perfect for modelling; 10000 rpm down to barely moving. However it's old and the bearings are starting to go. Karl
  10. Next item on the list are the side booster tubes. It is believed that the original studio model's boosters were made by rolling plastic sheeting around a cardboard tube from a roll kitchen roll. To that end I found a cardboard tube from some kitchen foil that was just the right diameter (about 27mm) and after Mrs Karl kindly unrolled the (quite substantial amount) remaining on the roll, I had my tube! I them wrapped it with some very thin gauge styreen sheeting. How they will appear on the Hawk... I started by gluing the plastic to one end of the roll to keep it tight, then when set I... just rolled it and glued the other end and left it taped up overnight. I cut some styrene rings to cover the ends of the tube, with one end being slightly recessed in to the tube. Next, the cone at the engine bell end; this was made with a simple disk of plastic stuck together and placed in the tubes recessed end. This will be dressed up later. Karl
  11. Karl

    Fine Molds 1/48 X-Wing 'Red 5'

    That is a really superb build, just a nice amount of shading and weathering... really like it. I had this kit in my hand in my local model shop, and I really want one... but theĀ£70-odd quid price tag is just too much for me. To be honest I would be happy with the old MPC X-Wing.... Karl
  12. Very nice - just the right amount of weathering/dirtying. Karl
  13. Thanks Mike. As I said, I did think about taking a mould from the beak, however this model was always going to be a one off so not sure why I needed it as I'm probably never going to build another. I've seen an article regarding the original studio model having had a cast taken from it using a plaster mould (having covered the original in foil) and taking a mould of the upper then lower surfaces making a horizontally split part. The moulds were then used to make a copy using a slush cast of resin and car body filler and fibre glass matting. This is something I could actually do as I have most of that stuff to hand. I'm not too worried about delamination as this technique was used to make a lot of the original parts on the Eagle model and they have lasted since 1999. If it did delaminate I guess it would come apart in blocks that I could CA back in place. I could drill and pin the main parts to each other with small screws I suppose for extra security. I don't even want to think about dropping it... however I don't think that would be good for any of our models... I'll have a think while I work on other bits of the Hawk.... Karl
  14. Thank you; you're right I really should take a cast of the beak, however it's a bit beyond my casting capabilities at the moment!! Karl