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About Karl

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    Hey, that's me!!
  • Birthday 07/01/1970

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    East Yorkshire, UK and Larnaka, Cyprus

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  1. This is my model of Revell's 1/52 T-47 Snow Speeder. I picked this kit up whilst I was looking for either the old AMT Snow Speeder or Bandai's new version and thought I'd give it a whirl. It's quite a mall kit of what is really a small full size subject. The kit is of the snap-fit type so no glue is required, although I did secure all of the joints with glue and especially around the periphery of the fuselage. The fit is very good and the parts are nicely detailed with some quite finely engraved panel lines. The pilot and gunner required a bit of work to slim the arms down but you don't really see them when the canopy is shut. I painted it with Humbrol Enamel H196 light grey and pin washed in dark grey and black. It's a nice little kit, hope you like it. Thanks for looking Karl
  2. LoL!! - Yes I noticed the evil expression on C3-P0's face! However, I think that was made worse by the lighting I used for the photographs; lit from only above (no flash) it gives him a really hooded brow that looks so evil. The later pictures I took I used a flash that reduced the hooded look somewhat. I to think that the head is a tad oversize - looks worse when close up. Karl
  3. Here is my completed MPC / ERTL - C3-P0 As with R2-D2, this was a blast from the past, getting to have another go at building a kit I first did in the late 1970's was good fun. As I had two kits in the box, I used an extra arm and gave it the option of being able to have the 'red arm' as seen in the later films. The red colour is a mixture of Humbrol 100 (Red Brown) and 19 (Bright Red) painted over the black undercoat. Again, I've kept C3-P0 fairly clean, but not too bright to make it toy like. The eyes were painted yellow with black pupils, and the wiring on the midriff picked out in various colours. And the 'Red Arm': Ad with his buddy, R2-D2: Thanks for looking
  4. Last update before completion! As C3-P0 is gold in colour, the best undercoat for that is a smooth coat of black paint. I've used Halfords satin bumper black spray paint. I think he looks quite good as a 'Stealth' protocol droid! Next to be sprayed is the Alclad II 'Pale Gold' - to be revealed in the RFI post!! Karl
  5. That looks really good. I build one for my father a few years ago, and, as you say it doen't really represent the Actic Corsair so I tried to scratch build the double dridge and varuius other changes with varying degrees of success... Karl
  6. This is what I keep hearing that Humbrol enamel gloss black is the way to go, so I don't understand why it wrinkled on mine. Unless it had to do with the fact that I used Halfords grey primer under the gloss black and then the Alclad. Karl
  7. I Completely agree, there is just something special about these older kits where I'm happy to go the extra mile during building and painting. Karl
  8. I'm sure that is a real size bike...... ...amazing work!! Karl
  9. More progress on C3-P0. It has to be said that this is a fairly simple kit, so building C3-P0 was a fairly quick process. Most of the time was spent cleaning up the old joints and filling in any gaps or replacing broken or missing parts. I decided to remove the moulded in restraining bold on his chest. The original kit used moulded in hooks at the ends of the arms and head (like an old fashion doll) to allow for articulation of the joints. These had all broken off in my kit so I installed some plastic tube across the inside of the chest and one for the head. On the arms I drilled a hole on the end of the arm and used a length of bent brass rod to hold it into the tube inside the chest, this allows the arms to move. The head is held on with a short stubby rod that allows the head to turn. After I was satisfied with the assembly, it was time for some primer. The primer revealed some areas that required remedial filling and shaping work and then more primer. Thanks for looking. Karl
  10. Hi chaps, I'm working on my 1970's Kenner C3-P0 and planning to paint it using Alclad II Gold, however I'm struggling with what undercoat to use. Question: Has anyone used Halfords Gloss black as an undercoat for Alclad II ?? I've been looking and reading various tips and tricks but I thought I would ask to. The Gold needs a gloss black undercoat. I prime my models using Halfords standard car body grey primer - an acrylic that needs cellulose thinners to clean up and I can over paint this with Humbrol Enamels as I've been doing for years without issue. So I did some tests. Test one - was to paint over the grey with Humbrol gloss black. I've left that for about 12 hours and then tried the Alclad and it immediately reacted and crazed the surface. Odd this as I had heard good things about using Humbrol gloss black to undercoat for Alclad. Test two - was to use Alclad's own gloss undercoat (over the grey) and then gold - this seems to work well but I have read lots of people say that the Alclad black does not dry at all so I'm worried about using thins combination. Test three - was using Halfords satin bumper black over the grey (random choice as I had it on the bench) and this also worked very well. Any suggestions would be great;y received. Kind regards Karl
  11. Hi Chaps, To follow on from my recent R2-D2 build I've started on R2's counterpart; C3-P0. Again this kit dates from around 1978 and is the MPC/ERTL kit under the Kenner label and is approximately 1/8th scale. The kit was purchased as a part started model (two kits came in the box, one built and one in bits) so I chose the best of the parts to build one good C3-P0 and still have enough parts left over to build another C3-XY variant droid if i feel like it in the future. The first thing I did was to disassemble the built kit and go through the parts and clean them up. And that's it, my finished model diorama:- The C3-P0 scrap pile scene on Cloud City from 'The Empire Strikes Back' Thanks for looking..... Oh well, seriously I'd better sort through the scrap pile.... That's better. Better start gluing.... Karl
  12. Thats a very nice Skyvan you have done there. Karl
  13. My R2-D2 Astromech is now completed! It was definitely a blast from the past to work on this kit again, and not quite the magical experience I remember when I was 8 or 9 years old.. There were a number of shape and detail issues with the kit that I was simply ignorant to when I built it 40 years ago. I have amended some of these (such as the top of the dome) but not all and I have left the dome chrome because I like it rather than stripping it and painting it silver to make it more accurate. Be that as it may I have enjoyed the build and have tried to do my best with a kit that was part started and required quite a bit of remedial action to get right. I've gone for the very clean white look; I initially dirtied the panel lines but didn't like it so reverted back to the clean look. Thanks for looking Karl
  14. Big jump forward in progress. I have now spray painted all of the components using Halfords Appliance White and, when dry, I have painted the various arms and sensors blue using Humbrol Metallic Blue. I used the metallic blue as I had read that originally the blue components on R2D2 were made from aluminium and them painted with engineers or marking blue to give it a translucent metallic effect. Other areas were highlighted with Humbrol Silver. The back panel detail was painted and installed in to the open back of R2 On R2's head I used the original sticker decal for the red sensor eye and used Bare Metal Foil to cover the base of the dome below the blue ring. The head then slips on to the top of the body It was then a simple matter of assembling the legs and clipping on the panel covers to complete the little Astromech. Link to RFI post. MPC / ERTL - R2-D2 (Denys Fisher 1978) - Complete Karl
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