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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".


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Viking last won the day on July 20 2013

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About Viking

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  • Birthday 18/04/58

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  1. Yes,the sprues are exactly the same. The only difference between the original and new Fokker release is the decals and a minor revision to the etch. Cheers John
  2. Really hard to belive that is such an old kit, you've made it look state of the art Russ. (Again!) Cheers John
  3. Got to agrre with you Alex, the Airfix DC-9 is still worth building, as you have just proved in triplicate! Cheers John
  4. Lovely job on that Alex, very resourceful use of decals too! Cheers John
  5. Well the daily routines have been getting inthe way of modelling altely, but I have now made some more progress! I am rigging with Maxima Chameleon 4lb fishing line. First task was to deepen all the holes that the lines would be secured in, using a 0.3mm drill. And breaking 2 of them. Then a length of line was cyano'ed into each one. I cut them at least twice as long as they need to be. A dab of accelerator helps lock them into place, and leave it all alone for 24 hours. Then it is time to secure the outer struts. I glued them in to the bottom wing only with Revell Contacta, and in order to line them up while they dry overnight I did this; Turned it over, and dry fitted the tops of the struts into their slots in the top wing. A couple of paint jars provide a bit of gentle weight to make sure they stay put. The rigging lines are ignored at this time. Next day, the struts have glued in firmly, so lift it off the top wing and turn it over. The rigging holes in the top wing are all now drilled right through the wing using a 0.4mm drill. Note that I have pushed some short lengths of fishing line through some of the holes in the top wing, around the cabane strut locations. These are secured with tape on the other side, It is a new idea I am trying. Sometimes you get a bit of glue 'ooze' out of the socket when the strut goes in, and it can block the rigging holes. I figure that if that happens, they will be clear when I pull the short lengths out after the top wing is firmly dried on. (Skipping ahead here - but it worked! There was a bit of oozing, just enough to block a couple of holes. But I pulled the sacrificial lengths out, and hey presto, clear holes!) The top wing was glued on and left to set. Then all the lines were pulled tight through the correct holes, and secured with a drop of cyano, using one of those 0.3mm drill bits I broke, as an applicator in a pair of locking tweezers. Do one line, then do its opposite number on the other side. Equalise the strain on the rigging as you work. The litlle 'bullet' with wires passing through was giving me nightmares, thinking how to do it. In the end it was a doddle. I drilled through it, fed the lines through from the bottom, and secured the 'bullet' with a dab of cyano on each line. Then threaded the upper 2 lines through the upper wing, to give the characteristc look of this bit of rigging. I'm really pleased with it, I thought it was going to be a real ' bear' but it couldn't have been easier. I left all the 'hairy' lines in place overnight and trimmed them off flush this evening. There are still a pair of 'double' lines that go from the undercarriage leg to the top of the forward outer strut. But I need the undercarriage legs glued in before I can do those. So the legs are fixed in place now! I'll get those lines in, and also rig the undercarraige legs themselves. Then make good the exit holes on the top surface of the top wing. I like using fishing line as it does what real rigging does, and adds extra strenght to the model. It's not so essential on a smallish model like this, but the bigger ones can wobble a bit before you get them rigged. Thanks for looking John
  6. ...and he's off again! Great start Marty, look forward to watching progress on this one. Cheers John
  7. Thanks all! I certainly did bzn20, couldn't find a decal sheet though! Ian, they are from the kit decal sheet, and I assume to be wingwalk markings. I did 'um and ah' a bit about putting them on as I couldn't find any photos one way or the other to show if there were there or not. In the end I figured that they helped break up the silver areas. But I am not so sure I would use them again on my next DC-4. Cheers John
  8. Great job Marty, the paintwork on the underside is great, how did you do that area on the lower wing stained by the wheels chucking up crud? It looks really effective. Great job, I look forward to seeing the Roland now! Cheers John
  9. Thank you for the kind comments chaps! Andy, I'd not noticed that yet so thanks for the 'heads up'. It's another good idea from WnW! Cheers John
  10. 30021 4 Colour Upper Lozenge Decals & 30022 4 Colour Lower Lozenge Decals 1:32 Wingnut Wings Despite early propaganda the Great War was not ‘over by Christmas’ and instead the months passed and turned into years. Aviation was in its infancy, yet underwent rapid change and development during the four years of active conflict. After two years, by 1916 it was realised that some form of concealment for the aircraft was desirable; both while in flight and parked on the ground. Often this was achieved with paints or coloured dopes, but these carried the penalty of adding extra weight. The Deutsche Luftstreitkräfte (German air force) developed pre-printed fabrics that provided the colours without adding the weight. These were based on the polygonal patterns that had often been hand painted onto various aircraft, in an effort to visually break up their lines. Initially the ‘five colour’ fabric began to appear in 1917, followed later by a ‘four colour’ version. Both types had a ‘lower’ version consisting of light colours, and an ‘upper’ version with darker colours. Both types were in extensive use right up until the end of the war, one did not replace the other or supercede it. While the patterns are not in doubt, the actual colours have been discussed exhaustively over the last hundred years. With no contemporary colour photography, plus the effects of fading, oil, varnish, staining, and a whole host of other influences, it can be pretty difficult to come to absolute certainties. Wingnut wings have gone back to primary sources, I.e. surviving fabric samples, and done their own analysis. In their own words; “Wingnut Wings lozenge decals have been meticulously researched, the intricate patterns were traced from original lozenge fabric material we have examined in person. These same lozenge samples were used to colour match our decals under natural daylight conditions. We were very fortunate to have enough sample material to be able to match the colours to the un-doped and un-faded areas from where the edges had been folded over to sew the panels together. In conjunction with our decal printers, Cartograf, we printed multiple samples of each lozenge decal before we were completely happy that the colours matched or research findings. All of this ensures that our decals match the original colours of our samples as they looked in natural daylight conditions as they were applied to aircraft in the Great War.” The decals are printed on A4 sized sheets with seven ‘bolts’ of fabric on each, to the scale width they would have been. There is a very subtle ‘fabric’ look to them, the printing is razor sharp and the pattern repeats precisely . The colours look very impressive, they do actually start to blend together when viewed from a distance. There should be enough on the sheets to cover at least two Albatros sized aircraft, probably more if only the wings need covering. Plenty of useful information is contained within the instruction sheets, pointing out how aircraft were covered, use of rib tapes, and various anomalies that occurred. In the usual Wingnut Wings style, these are backed up with original photographs from the era. Comparison with an earlier Wingnut Wings decal from my stash (a Pfalz D.XII) in pre-shped format, shows the improvement that this latest research has produced. The earlier decal is a little harsher in the way the colours relate to each other, is probably too bright, and it doesn’t ‘blend’ as well as the newer sets. Lozenge camouflage is such a distinctive and noticeable feature on aircraft in this scale, that these sheets will be great to upgrade your unbuilt Wingnut Wings kits (they do a five colour set as well). And if you have any other manufacturers 1:32 WW1 German aircraft kits, they often have much poorer quality lozenge decals, you’ll definitely need a set of these. Highly reccomended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. Pleased! your friend should be over the monn with that, its a stunning and epic build! Cheers John
  12. A rarely seen little cutie! I do hope Wingnut Wings turn their attention to one of these! Cheers John
  13. One arrived for review at Britmodeller central, and I got my grubby mitts on it! Posted up in the review section here. Cheers John
  14. Douglas DC-4 - 1:144 Minicraft Aer Turas decals - This is the lovely Minicraft DC-4 kit, with decals from classic-airlines,com. The decals are laser printed on constant film, so need individually cutting out.They do some wonderful schems from the 60's and 70's, I just can't resist buying them! I'm deveoping a real liking for Irish aviation, as well as the smaller independant airlines of the 60's, so this one scores on both counts. Having seen Ian Turbofans beautiful British Eagle Brittannia, which he photographed using a hairdryer to spin the props, I thought I'd do a couple of photos like that myself! 'With something else' - its' close relative the ATL Carvair, in real life actually converted from a DC-4. Also has classic-airlines,com decals. Thanks for looking John
  15. Calum, PC10 is probaly 70% olive drab, 20% red brown, and 10% black. I say probably because I mix it by eye, trying to get that 'is it green or is it brown' look. CDL is also by eye, to get an off white cream look. I mix a whole batch in an empty Tamiya jar, so it lasts a while. I cut it from 10mm Tamiya tape with a steel ruler and new blade, on one of those grid marked cutting mats. Cheers John