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About armored76

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  1. Hah... I remember trying to scratch-build one as youngster based on some drawings published in a Romanian modelling magazine (Modelism). It was showing the Buran attached to the carrier (?) but cannot recall all the details... PS. I found the cover! It was the February issue of 1989... Memories, memories....
  2. Are those "holes" on the rubber parts normal? This kit is intriguing and frightening (metallic finish) at the same time
  3. armored76

    Revell Acrylic Paints

    Hey, I use Revell Aquas almost exclusively. Some of them are great, some not so but you can work with all of them. I tried diluting them with IPA and their original thinner and both seem to do the trick, with IPA being a tad cheaper on the long-run, probably. Make sure you dilute them properly (the often-cited milky consistence) and you are good to go. If applied with an airbrush, matt colours dry matt. If not, their clear matt is doing a great job even over oil washes which tend to turn glossy. When applied by brush, it tends to dry glossy but it might depend on the paint/layer thickness, you apply. I tried Vallejo and Mig acrylics, as well without noticeable advantages other than the availability of some colours out-of-the-bottle where Revell paints usually require mixing. Speaking of which, the need to mix paints for certain "common" colours is probably their biggest drawback. I hope this helps!
  4. armored76

    Harder & Steenbeck Evolution - First impressions

    I've been eyeing the MMP series and the AK Real Colors but haven't bit the bullet yet. How are the MMP paints odour-wise?
  5. armored76

    Harder & Steenbeck Evolution - First impressions

    What brand acrylics are you using, if you don't mind me asking? My main stock is Revell Aqua with a few Mig and Vallejo bottles. All behave about the same.
  6. armored76

    Harder & Steenbeck Evolution - First impressions

    Congrats on your new piece of hardware! After some struggling with acrylics (paint drying on the tip and/or not leaving the brush, etc), I'm a happy user myself. I went for the Silverline with a 0.2mm nozzle/needle combo just to have the needle adjustment piece. I think, you can now get it as an extra part from H&S. For me, it was the one piece that made the most difference. Then again, I had one from hour zero on my previous brush so, I was used to having one. Have fun with it!
  7. armored76

    H&S Evolution - Tip clogging very fast

    Sorry for not reporting back sooner on this... After reading through the information here and in a very helpful private post, it seems like I was finally able to solve my problem. In hindsight, the key elements are: open up the needle travel distance a lot more; I'm probably in the range around to 2mm which is a lot more than what I used with MRP paints if the paint is undiluted (Vallejo or Mig), up the pressure to a round 15-20psi if the paint is dilute (e.g. for freehand) lower the pressure to around 10-15psi and dilute around 30-70 paint-thinner ratio then apply several layers if diluting the paint use a bit of retarder; with Revell paints I now use their acrylics thinner exclusively Not sure how it happened but all of sudden it just "clicked" into working mode. Many thanks for all your help, gentlemen! It is much appreciated!
  8. Hey, I was surfing around for reviews of the above product but without much success, so far. Did any of you used this already and can report? I'd be mainly interested in shrinkage, ability to re-scribe panel lines after it cured, curing time and the like. Many thanks in advance!
  9. armored76

    Thoughts on Mig's Aircobra, anyone?

    Thank you, guys!
  10. armored76

    Short Jokes II The Sequel

    A very old safari hunter is recounting his old adventures to a group of youngsters: - I was marching through the savanah looking for that bad old lion everybody warned me off... Bushes to the left, bushes to the right, ear deafening silence but I knew he was there... and then... ROOOAAARRR!!! The lion jumped in front of me, less than ten yards away, his eyes glaring at me... I sh*t my pants!!! - Well, sir - says one of the youngsters - everyone of us would have reacted the same way. - No, no... I mean, I did that now...
  11. armored76

    LED lighting for airliners anyone?

    Exactly! The longer it is on, the brighter it appears. Applied on the coil of a DC motor, the longer it is on, the faster it rotates.
  12. armored76

    LED lighting for airliners anyone?

    Here an explanation on PWM: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM Distance is indeed a problem. It'd be nice to try this out live.
  13. armored76

    LED lighting for airliners anyone?

    Yes, after the update there will be throttle control on the motors. These would would work with so called PWM control signals. Basically, a very fast signal turning on and off with the time it stays on and off controlled by the software. The longer it stays on compared to the off phase, the higher the "average" voltage on the motor and the faster it turns. The relation between the on and off times is called duty cycle. The best part is, this is all taken care of by the TLC59711 driver. All the software does is tell the chip "Set duty cycle to 30% on channel R1". Exactly the same mechanism can be used to control the LED brightness, if that is required.
  14. armored76

    LED lighting for airliners anyone?

    Not really... If you take two CR2032 batteries in series with their 230 mAh (probably even less in real live) and consider about 8x60mA for the motors plus 6x20mA for the LEDs, you'll see that the total consumption of 600mA will drain the batteries in minutes. Of course you can use several packs of two batteries in parallel but then you are at about the same volume as AA or AAA batteries. An alternative would be the use of a 9V battery but it needs to be checked as some will not be able to drive DC motors reliably. Yet another alternative would be 6V or 9V wall plugs. Less flexible but would also require less space (only for the connector, basically). I wouldn't put the batteries in the model anyway but place it under the base, for instance which might reduce space requirements. I'll have to revise the schematic above as I forgot about the infrared receiver we discussed and will also have to double check on the available PWM channels for the motor control.