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Allan31

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About Allan31

  • Birthday 12/14/1956

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    Shelton, CT. USA

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  1. I am just about to start 152 myself with the Dragon kit. I am going with the "average truth" out there on the www and follow the Aviattic scheme....
  2. Thanks everyone, huge fun building this classic. Makes me rethink not building the Camel now....
  3. Thanks Dogtail. The control cables went the way of the ammo chutes and there was no windscreen on 425.
  4. Finished and posted in "Ready for Inspection"...
  5. This was huge fun. I'm glad I finally got around to doing this olde classic. This is as close as I think you can get to doing the original kit as Revell intended and be correct. All red with the Maltese crosses. The only aftermarket used were some beautiful Model Monkey 3D printed Spandaus and I added foil belts. Build log here: This is 425/17 in its original form before they updated the crosses. Richthofen was later killed in this, his last triplane. Some have said this a/c is 477 but I think WingNutWings has shown otherwise. Of course this isn't a Roden or Meng but I was amazed how well done this kit was from 1957.
  6. Looking at photos of 425, I redid the cockpit combing using styrene rod that I will cut down and reshape. Using an ellipse guide, I cut out the crosses. I wanted a thicker white border but I discovered the Revell art is sized wrong sometimes, the white available dictated the outline. They did their best 1957. Everything in Tamiya fine white and masking for the first coat of Vallejo 71.102 red. After the first coat dried I then applied the black markings to be over-sprayed with a second coat. I shot a second coat and applied the rest of the kits markings, Now everyone is drying waiting for a coat of Future and weathering. More soon !
  7. The Revell 1/28 Dr1 is about the first model I remember seeing. I was maybe 4-5 and remember the triplane and Camel sitting way up on a bookshelf out of reach. I could see them closer as I walked up the stairs peeking under the banister but no touchy. I have for years thought it would be a great idea to build these three kits, (now four) in the original kit markings but with just some scratched tweaking here and there. Enhancing the kits but still keeping them the old Revells we all grew up with. The Camel and SPAD are easier because the original markings for those kits are correct, for the Dr1, we have a problem. Molded in bright red plastic with no painting required, re-boxed in later years but with better decals. Originally, it was FI 102/17 in red and we know MvR never flew 102 like this in red. 102 was an FI and light blue with streaking finish. I wanted to use the maltese crosses as that was in the first kit. Newer issues gave me the 425 I needed to use the maltese crosses if I cut away the excess white panels. Problem solved, close enough. I got the kit off Evilbay for cheap and was thrilled to find a copy of an Ed Boll article on how to improve the kit. Don't know the date but would like to find out. I was born in '56, it's as old as me. The wings were flimsy so I used Tamiya thick slathered around and let them set up over night making sure they would stay straight. The Boll article says the prop is fine but I thought I could improve. I corrected the right aileron with some .10 styrene and putty by tracing the left. Boll would have me swap the throttle and fuel pump as Revell got them backwards but I left them as is. I did do the cloth screen behind the seat as suggested. I will add belts from yogurt cup foil and a seat cushion. Engine next.
  8. Thanks everyone, glad you enjoyed, no idea what's next.
  9. Thanks all, this Bebe is done. Mostly done as a fun build but more a confirmation of CDL and weathering techniques. But, as usual, AMS got the better of me but I did behave...somewhat. Forced to add aftermarket engine, better but the exhaust pipes still are on the wrong side of the cylinders. 3D printed GasPatch Lewis gun, the prop I pinched from a Dr1 kit and reshaped. Kits front cabane struts WAY too short, replaced with shaped styrene rod. E-Z Fine for rigging. Build log here: The Nieuport 11 of Jean Navarre, N576. Merit/SMER 1/48 scale. It was never my intention to turn this into something like an Eduards, still plenty left to do for that. I didn't add a windscreen, no brace for the Lewis, no torque tubes for the ailerons, and my favorite, the outer wing struts attaching to the movable aileron on the upper wing. Much of the old character still here in this old Merit/SMER Nieuport. Thanks all.
  10. So, this is what I have in the kit for an engine and propeller. I remember those old Alan Hall articles on scratch build engines by cutting the heads off screws and glueing them on a dowel. Not happening. Instead, I found a radial engine beautifully 3D printed but it's the wrong one, this is a 110 for a Sopwith Camel. The biggest difference is of course the exhaust pipes are in front for the 80 and in back for the 110. This what I need it to look like. Surgery required. I ground off the front and back of the two pieces and mounted the exhaust on the front. Close enough. Since I've kinda broken my own rule of no aftermarket, I went ahead and pinched a propeller from a Dr1. All the major bits are done and we are ready to assemble and finish the little Bebe. More soon I hope.
  11. I wanted something to further practice my CDL technique and found this colorful candidate in the "olde" stash. For years I was thinking this was a re-pop of the old Aurora kit but apparently not. Would love to put the two side by side. Decals look usable so I started tweaking. Cockpit with kit parts. Thinned down cowling. Corrected cockpit coaming. As I did with the cowling, I used furnace tape to detail the upper wing for hinges and gun mount. I added the slit for the two part wing. I primed everything with Tamiya fine white and then started doing the rib detail. This is a two part process but simple and easy. I use the same for all CDL. After the white primer I take my Vallejo beige and white and mix them 50/50 for the rib color and spray over all. I use 1mm Tamiya tape and mask the ribs. When all that is masked, I shoot the beige 100% then remove the masking tape. Will add edge color to wings and such, Future then ready for decals.
  12. Welcome Andy, I am also a newbie to all this WW1. There are some true masters to learn from in these hallowed forums. My own route lead me to some cheap kits I had built as a kid in the 60's-70's and had hanging from my ceiling. Now retired and armed with my AMS, (Advanced Modelers Syndrome) I can take my masochistic building approach to new found heights. Monogram DVII Monogram SE5a Monogram Sopwith Camel. SMER Nieuport. The above are all repops of the old Aurora and Merit kits and can be found for a song on Evilbay. I have a stash of better kits awaiting my improved WW1 skills. I use EZ-Line and stretch it into holes in wings painted but NOT drilled all the way through, much easier. The thought of painting the top wing AFTER the rest is already painted and rigged gives me chills and sweats......
  13. So far,( and I really am stopping buying,) this is the pile of "good" kits... And this is the pile of "just for fun" kits... To much fun, so little time...
  14. While enjoying my second cuppa this morning, I wandered into the model building cave and again wondered how I'm going to get that blue on my triplane. I had been poking around the www and found some online recipes I tried but didn't like. I have Paul Leaman's book and like it so I opened it up. I'm comfortable with all the research and detail he has in this so decided to try and match what's in there. On the third try, I think I got it at least close enough for my use. I painted a swatch and then photographed it under several lighting conditions, the last is in sunlight. This recipe is for Vallejo paints. 10- 71.001 White 5- 71.404 "Duck Egg Blue" 1- 71.004 Blue A satisfying morning, hope this helps.
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