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Kev The Modeller

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About Kev The Modeller

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    Wiltshire

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  1. Think it was Hiroboy.
  2. I've got both Tamiya putty and all their polishing compounds all bought in the UK.
  3. What amazing footage, you can see the salvo's from Hood around Bismarck.
  4. I still got a few of my 80's 23ml bottles, all are fine and I still use them. The latter statement, I feel is a large clue as to why they're no longer (I've not seen any UK stockist carry them for years) sold in the UK. They last longer and they'd sell less, there's also the other side of the coin, buying a 23ml bottle of paint for a kit/job that perhaps you will use no more than a few drops! That said and as mentioned 23ml are better value and the 10ml are priced higher than 23ml and there is the answer, they make more money. Like just about everything today it's a
  5. I've tried all manner of combinations, IPA, X20a, UMP, AK, etc as you mentioned it doesn't really work. What does work consistently for me, is Ammo thinner between 50% - 80% depending on the colour and what Im doing with it. I found it really does vary by colour. It doesn't like on off (tip dry) and the pressure no more than 17psi and as low as 8 when highly thinned. Light coats is the key to applying them, avoid on off and tip dry is almost eliminated. I don't use them that much nowadays, mainly armour or aircraft builds and I'm using them until gone but I've no plans to replace. I've pr
  6. Take a look at This and this from 1120, on both links you can go through their sites, where's there's a lot of very useful information about using not just water based acrylic (Ammo 1st link) but just about every other type of paint (2nd link) and a whole raft of tools etc. Ammo is good paint but you've got to know how to use it, from there you learn what it doesn't do so well and what it does do very well. Personnel I'd go for Tamiya or Aqueous as there far easier to use and give you consistent results.
  7. Not really, all the H&S has is trigger pressure/resistance adjustment and max needle opening setting, something they call quick fix. On the Infinity this can be dialled in using plunger and the No's on the body, but to be honest I hardly ever used it, or the trigger pressure adjustment. As mentioned what the Infinity doesn't have as standard that the Procon does is a mac valve and this I use all the time, H&S will sell you there's for almost £30. The H&S are lovely tools but not cheap. The Procon has everything you'll need, it's as well made, very easy to use, clea
  8. Nice brush choice, if you go the H&S route I'd go for a 0.2 and 0.4 mix. I would suggest you consider This and this these are absolutely cracking airbrushes, I was using two(infinity & evolution) H&S airbrushes until recently. I bought the 270 after a mate recommended I try his, well wow and I mean wow, it's easily as good as H&S and so easy to use all with a built in mack valve somthing H&S sting you almost £29 for. To back flush no pinching the nozzle, all you do is unscrew the cap it's just so easy. Check this out he also does many other tests and revi
  9. Hi I can only tell you I how do it, which works fine for me. Most areas requiring decals will be the outside of the bodywork/tank/firing panels, these areas are nearly always have a finished gloss surface. On these areas I colour coat, seal with a light gloss coat, add the decals and final gloss coat in layers. Parts requiring matt or semi tend to be interior or separate components, wings, spoilers, exhaust cans, seats etc and can be built, painted, decaled, given a matt or semi coat and added as a separate component. A vinyl roof, bonnet/boot lid I'd mask off the surrounding a
  10. Personally and IMHO I wouldn't use either of those choices. I've not use beeswax, but have used Iwata super lub. For me it turned into a sort of paste which dries out and semi hardens which creates a lot lag and jams the needle and air valve, it also leaves a semi hard residue which has to be cleaned off and it's not that easy, requiring complete strip down. The stuff is water based and fine until the water evaporates and your left with the above. The best stuff I found is Needle juice it works a treat leaves no residue and you only need a tiny dab, that's easy enough to last a
  11. Think there's one in the science museum. They have s superb collection of builders ship models as does Greenwich.
  12. I'll second that, it is expensive but it works.
  13. My experiences of Mr Hobby are the same as bmwh548. I've got about 30 odd jars a mixture of Aqueous and lacquer versions, some I've not used for a good few years all are fine. I have and a Tamiya pot go off for want a better word. It was white gloss opened it, used it, resealed it, after a few weeks it started to turn, brown then black. There's no shaker ball in there, or anything else, I must have somehow contaniatend it, I've got almost the whole Tamiya acrylic paint range, never had this before or since.
  14. I'm seem to remember reading or seeing, that to achieve good yellow colour the primer/undercoat needs to be white a bit like using black undercoat to achieve good metallic finishes.
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