Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


Gold Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

61 Good

About Jetblast

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 27/11/1969

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Military Aviation,Scale Modelling (Cold War, big, pointy, fast stuff),Airbrushing, Mountain biking.

Recent Profile Visitors

6,629 profile views
  1. Info needed please, on MIDGES in Scotland.

    When younger I went on annual camping expeditions for a fortnight during the summer holidays with my Grandfather, a bit like the North Coast 500 finishing up with family in Tongue & Ullapool was a regular stop-off - best fish & chip's came from a caravan on the pier. Ullapool went down the pan a bit in the 80's when the Russian factory ships arrived in Loch Broom, think a loch full of large, dirty rusting ships & streets full of drunken Russian sailors at the weekend (officially they didn't come ashore, but they definitely did), that thankfully finished years ago & the place is back to what it was. If your better half is the sort that comes out in small red bites that irritate forever when she is bitten it might be worth trying antihistamines, the sort that you buy over the counter to prevent sun rashes & what not generally help.
  2. Info needed please, on MIDGES in Scotland.

    I live in the thick of it (or them...) & can offer the following; Central Belt Northwards is were it's all at, with the West being far worse than the East. I've travelled the area plenty over the years & by a large margin the worst I have ever experienced have been in the Torridon area (consistently!!). They don't much like the wind or even a breeze, so costal areas are best in the West, although maybe replace "coastal" with "on the coast within line of sight of the water". They are bad when it's damp / drizzly & at their worst immediately after it's been raining. On hot sunny days they are not as much of a problem (hot sunny days here are another subject altogether though...). Bogs, peaty ground & forests are where they are at their worst Skin-so-soft works as well as any of the special / expensive products. Gas midge eating contraptions absolutely work, but you need to be in reasonable proximity & they are not portable, so they are only of use on patio's, communal areas & the likes. I've been trying to beat them for the best part of 5 decades now & it's still generally a case of avoiding them wherever possible by covering up or going indoors. Long sleeves are the order of the day & hoods / nets are well worth the investment - don't concern yourself with looking like a fool in a net, it's a damn sight less painful than being attacked! This isn't far from where I'm at & apart from missing wings, it appears to be anatomically accurate;
  3. hello

    We are still here, but previous posts have disappeared into the ether with a forum issue I'm afraid - I guess you could call it a post apocalypse..... We will try & get some relevant posts up over the next week or so
  4. An attempt at USCG that didn't exist? Columbia Helicopters have a few Chinooks that similarily look the part; As do Helimax;
  5. Scratched CD and future.

    Not sure about Future & you may have to polish afterwards. Heavy wax (furniture, car, whatever) seems to be useful for filling deeper scratches, pile on & polish off - the scratch may remain visible when finished, but it should / might read properly.
  6. Revell Omega leaking oil - any pointers?

    If there is oil spillage it's most likley coming from the cover seal or air intake filter - this can be caused by moving the compressor & letting the oil slop about inside or running the compressor on an incline. The only other place the motor case can leak from is the sight bubble, unlikley, but if the gasket / seal has failed, possible. A reducing oil level with no spillage suggests that the oil is passing into the air tank, this can be caused by oil passed it best, motor/pump overheating or at worst a worn head. This can be easily checked for by filling to pressure & draining from the drain screw - a small amount of oil is not unusual, but mainly oil is.
  7. Recommendation for needle sizes

    I've found time between mixing & spraying with some Tamiya & other metallics to be an issue, the less the better so there isn't such an opportunity for separation. You can generally see which paints will be worst affected by watching the surface after you have mixed & some will start rapidly doing their own thing as soon as you stop mixing - I'll typically try to get it mixed, in the cup & sprayed as soon as possible & for larger jobs will prepare what's required, but only put a few ml of paint into the cup at a time, stirring & refilling as I go, it's a pain but helps prevent settling.
  8. What a way to view the Scottish Highlands

    Thanks for posting & nice to see that the Commando Memorial was spotted! Saw these guys in two & three ship on the inbound & outbound at least once a day for the best part of a week - fuel to burn in comparison to the locals...
  9. Rust in compressor

    -presumably it's rust and water? Yes. -should I therefore drain the tank from the valve at the bottom? Yes, although you might find that little comes out as the drain plug may be blocked with sediment - if that's the case, depressurise the tank, remove the drain screw completely & stick something like a fine screwdriver or a bent coat hanger into the hole to clear it. -Is it still safe to use, will there be any breach in the pressure vessel? It should be, but who knows really. Rusty water being pumped up into the regulator bowl suggests that the water level in the tank is close to being on level with the tank of-take which suggests that condensate has been accumulating for some time? Best practice is to drain the tank via the drain screw at the end of every session where you will get a little bit of moisture, but not enough to make a big mess. Failing at the end session I would advise once a week or so at minimum.
  10. I get the impression that once something is initially accepted into RM's system, via depot or hub it gets the green stamp to proceed without any further intervention, that's fine, but I get the impression that; Deliveries from abroad are accepted into the system on the basis of being properly checked at the originating location without question. Deliveries originating from the UK regardless of their destination are far more stringently checked. I've had numerous deliveries end up at RM's National Returns Depot in Belfast for "fake" reasons, one of which sticks in my mind - Customer orders a compact spray gun on Special Delivery & it gets sent straight to Belfast after x-ray scanning as it resembles a firearm (pistol grip I assume), a replacement order sent out by 2nd class post (to avoid air), but due to spare air capacity it ends up going by air, the paint cup union rattles much like a rattle can assuring an x-ray inspection, inspection reveals a metal cylinder-ish thing (the paint cup) which must be an aerosol & the 2nd order is on it's way to Belfast as well..... To add insult to injury it took several weeks to get the stock back on the shelf.
  11. RM will not accept hazardous goods per-se, but they are doing end point delivery for the vast majority of Parcelforce deliveries & these can legitimately contain declared hazardous goods...... confusing. A guess tells me that this is because RM can't guarantee "by road" transport for UK deliveries & regularly use air for premium services & when contracted air freight space allows, not so premium services as well. Parcelforce on the other hand trunk by road & avoid the complication of air. It still doesn't answer why all sorts of hazardous & prohibited items are coming in from abroad by regular (and sometimes unbelievably cheap) mail, ranging from "regular" hazardous goods like aerosols, to fireworks & a whole lot more....
  12. Which sealing kit for H&S Evolution Silverline?

    123910 is the correct kit. 123911 has an extra two needle seals for the CR Plus's long life, triple needle seal - you can fit / use this with the Silverline but you would also require the longer needle seal retaining screw (126470 / £2.50).
  13. Sparmax - sheared nozzle - advice?

    Sparmax make a "nozzle repair tool" for this, probably better called a nozzle thread extractor - it's basically a fine steel pin with a pointed tip that has flattened edges much like a straight flute screw extractor. Insert the tool into the nozzle thread, push to allow the edges of the tool to grip & then unscrew, the flutes gripping the inner side of the nozzle thread.
  14. Paint pitting H E L P !!!!

    No answers as such, but a couple of things that cross my mind; Solvent pop A layer of solvent paint over another layer that hasn't fully outgassed can cause bubbles to form from the evaporating solvent being release from the lower level. The bubbles often pop, leaving a cratered, pitted look & the problem can be exacerbated by over heavy top coats Moisture blisters Leave a similar cratered finish as above & is caused by fine moisture in the airflow or high humidity. This may not be apparent (or at least as apparent) with acrylics. It might be worth sticking something like "common spray paint defects" into /-insert favourite search engine here-/ & having a look through the results. The vast majority of hits will be from the auto refinishing game, but generally speaking they are applicable
  15. H&S with new air valve spring and screw cap.

    Not a problem & thank you!