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About Jetblast

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  • Birthday 27/11/69

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    Military Aviation,Scale Modelling (Cold War, big, pointy, fast stuff),Airbrushing, Mountain biking.

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  1. Sparmax make a "nozzle repair tool" for this, probably better called a nozzle thread extractor - it's basically a fine steel pin with a pointed tip that has flattened edges much like a straight flute screw extractor. Insert the tool into the nozzle thread, push to allow the edges of the tool to grip & then unscrew, the flutes gripping the inner side of the nozzle thread.
  2. All the best & productive modelling to all for 2017!
  3. No answers as such, but a couple of things that cross my mind; Solvent pop A layer of solvent paint over another layer that hasn't fully outgassed can cause bubbles to form from the evaporating solvent being release from the lower level. The bubbles often pop, leaving a cratered, pitted look & the problem can be exacerbated by over heavy top coats Moisture blisters Leave a similar cratered finish as above & is caused by fine moisture in the airflow or high humidity. This may not be apparent (or at least as apparent) with acrylics. It might be worth sticking something like "common spray paint defects" into /-insert favourite search engine here-/ & having a look through the results. The vast majority of hits will be from the auto refinishing game, but generally speaking they are applicable
  4. The DHW isn't pumped as such, but (on the Grant anyway) the incoming cold goes straight through the "cold" side of the heat exchanger & then straight out to taps, shower, whatever. The "hot" side of the heat exchanger relies on the pump to circulate hot water from the heat store through the "hot" side of the exchanger.
  5. I had a similar issue with a Grant combi oil boiler a year or so ago - CH fine, poor & then non existent DHW, although the boiler was firing for a short period when DHW was requested. I was lucky enough to be able to substitute most of the suspect parts to find out what the issue was, tried the flow switches, diverter valve & blend valve without luck. One part that hadn't crossed my mind was the pump - I thought that it was for CH only & that as the CH seemed to be fine, there wasn't an issue with the pump. Turned out that the pump was U/S & that the CH was being heated by convection, swapped out the pump & bingo, all fine. The boiler was firing fine for DHW, but as soon as the water reached temperature it was cutting out as the heated water wasn't going anywhere - if that makes sense.
  6. Not a problem & thank you!
  7. It does sound like the valve closure screw is too tight - just back it off until you find it comfortable.
  8. The HP-B+ may give the margin that your looking for (or HP-BH if you want / require the MAC valve) & should also feel more than familiar if your using an HP-CH already, as excluding the 0.2mm nozzle, smaller paint cup & shorter nose, the HP-B+ / HP-BH are basically the same as the HP-C+ / HP-CH. The CM-B (0.18) would probably be the optimum choice & realistically hard to beat, but it comes at a substantial price hike over an HP-B+ (give or take twice the price). Other viable alternatives would be the Mr Hobby Procon Boy FWA Platinum / PS-270 (0.2mm - it's pretty similar to the HP / Hi-line series, supplied with MAC valve, crown cap & paint cup lid, but doesn't have the short nose or small paint cup of the Iwata "B's") or the Mr Airbrush Custom 0.18 / PS-770. The PS-770 is very similar is spec & build to the Iwata CM-C+, but has an 0.18mm nozzle set similar to the CM-B's, it doesn't however have the specially hand matched / fettled head treatment that the Custom Micron's do.
  9. No problem at all Joe - a pleasure & thank you!
  10. Wezra, I'm not familiar with the slow boat stuff, so cant really comment, but the UK stock does have a warning / info label in English over part of the original label, regards the formula I believe it is unchanged. Glad you like the Iwata!
  11. That's the Mr Color range online now
  12. £2.00 Colin, same price as aqueous.
  13. Mr Color paints have finally become readily available in the UK!!!! Generally regarded as one of the best performing ranges of modelling paint available, they offer good adhesion, quick drying & strong colour with good "hide". The range consists of approximately 170 colours & covers many RLM, BS & FS references. We expect stock to arrive around the 26th of this month (October) & are busy creating products / images & what not for our site which will be published Tuesday / Wednesday as stock arrives You can find them here on our site! Thanks for looking, Martin.
  14. Johndc - After being switched on the manual model continues to run & once tank pressure is reached excess pressure will bleed through the pressure relief valve - the bleeding will continue until the tank pressure is reduced by consuming air from it or until the compressor is switched off. The automatic models have a pressure control unit mounted at the front (the grey / black plastic housing that you will see on most current Werther models) which monitors tank pressure, cuts the motor of once max. pressure has been reached, relieves residual pressure from the head & then re-starts the motor when the pre-set lower pressure limit is reached - & so on & so forth as required. Hope that helps.
  15. That's a Sil-Air 15 Export re-branded fro Rotring, it's a bit older that the current model, but generally similar. I imagine that the original manual was a re-print of the Werther manual, the current Werther manual should get you going (It's more focused on the automatic models, but other than that should do you fine);