Jetblast

It sounds like the compressor output is causing the 30psi limit, not the airbrush. While you maybe can't see an indicated pressure drop when triggering with your other airbrushes, it is happening but to a lesser extent than with the Eclipse. The Eclipse flows more air than the majority of similar airbrushes, so the pressure drop is more noticable & the maximum operating pressure is reduced.

After a fairly long wait, new parts for the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024, Evolution 2024 & Giraldez Infinity are now lin stock, all listed HERE Parts diagrams are also now available for the Ultra 2024 & Evolution 2024 a parts diagram for the Giraldez Infinity will follow shortly. Some of the new parts such as nozzle sets, needle seals & triggers are suitable for upgrading previous models & again details will follow.

GX-112 - Clear gloss with resistance to yellowing from UV GX-113 - Clear flat with resistance to yellowing from UV GX-114 - Satin gloss (between flat & gloss) C-189 - added to Mr Color gloss paint to reduce gloss (so you can get a flat or satin from a gloss) Mr Color Thinner fine for all of them, Levelling Thinner best for gloss finishes, Rapid Thinner for fast drying & not best for gloss finishes.

If the Omega has a "C" shaped tubular tank (think they all did), it's the part fitted at the top of the tank with adjustment knob at the top & moisture bowl at the bottom.

If it's automatic, is it reaching cut-off pressure / if it's manual, does it make enough pressure to open the pressure relief valve? If it reaches cut-off or relief valve pressure I would imagine a regulator issue, possibly a build up of crud (most likely in the regulator inlet port). stripping the regulator, cleaning & lubricating the internals with white grease may resolve the issue.

Similar, but LP-56 is lighter - the difference isn't as marked as the swatches suggest, xf-81 being slightly lighter & LP-56 slightly darker than shown.

Air leakage into the cup is caused by either an issue at the tip of the nozzle (split or otherwise damaged) or poor sealing between the white PTFE nozzle seal & the nozzle plate. It doesn't sound like a nozzle tip issue, so probably a sealing issue. The No.1 reason for this is generally inadequate tightening of the air cap, which in turn doesn't press the nozzle seal firmly enough against the nozzle plate (the part inside the nose, with central hole & 4 o'clock cut-out). How tight the air cap needs to be varies from brush to brush & cap to cap, but some require to be tightened pretty firmly (by hand, no tools). If that doesn't resolve the issue, check that the nozzle seal & nozzle plate surfaces are clean & worst case scenario, if steel cored cleaning brushes have been used, check that the nozzle plate hasn't been scored during cleaning.

A large shipment recently arrived with European distribution & is now appearing with retailers, plenty of stock of the Mr Color range & numerous other items that have been out of stock for a while.

Might be worth checking that air is flowing freely through the hoses you have & that there is no kinking or restriction in them

The guts are accessed from the top - remove the big nut & there should be flats on the threaded section, remove the threaded section to get the gubbins out. The guts might spring out when the threaded section is released, so keep some pressure on it when it runs of the threads. Clean the seals, spring & bore in hot soapy water, dry, lubricate with white grease & reassemble. Check that the seal/s are intact & take care when removing the threaded section as the plastic may have become brittle.

Could it be supported in position by the top of part 110 / section 51.

All that changed on the nozzles were the markings indicating the size (about the same time / slightly after the V2 needles were introduced), other than that there has been no change to the nozzles or the part numbers.

1) The rust that's in the drained condensate is for the large part "in" the condensate, which doesn't get drawn from the tank. Moisture that passes through the compressor to the regulator hasn't been condensed in the tank & has come straight from the compressor head where there is little if any opportunity for rust to be created (everything but the tank is alloy or coated), so very little if any rust would get as far as the filter. 2) Drain the tank frequently, don't store it for any significant time without draining it & leave the drain screw removed during storage. Internal painting or plastic coating of tanks isn't common on airbrush compressors & can lead to other issues - when the coating starts to fail, moisture is retained under the failed coating leaving an area that promotes rust, a "hot spot" for want's of a better word.

What you have is 1/4" BSP - 13mm across the male threads. BSP designations don't relate directly to the thread size rather confusingly.......

It's pretty hard to eliminate all dust / fibres & such like - it even going to be coming from you clothing as you work. Try misting the room down with a misting bottle (plant mister, old, empty trigger bottle) immediately prior to spraying so any dust is drawn down & use a Tupperware box or old ice cream carton to cover your work as soon as you have finished spraying until it is surface dry.