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Jetblast

Gold Member
  • Content count

    393
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About Jetblast

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 27/11/69

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  • Website URL
    http://www.air-craft.net
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Scotland
  • Interests
    Military Aviation,Scale Modelling (Cold War, big, pointy, fast stuff),Airbrushing, Mountain biking.

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  1. I looked at the 1st post on the thread & it immediately reminded me of the much loved Coastal Command booklet that I had when I was younger, went to the 2nd post & wow, there it is! The copy that I had came via someone that was with Coastal Command at the time of it's publication & I was clearly told to take b***** good care of it, which I did - just a shame that one of my "mates" at the time decided to sneak it away.... Thanks for the memory.
  2. .
  3. A updated version of the ever popular Sparmax TC-610H is now available, the TC-610H Plus. The Plus model is mechanically the same as the TC-610H, but features an updated case similar in design to that of the TC-620X, with the regulator & pressure gauge now mounted in the case top for easier access & added protection, also included are a pair of removable airbrush stands - price remains unchanged at £164.99;
  4. Stephen, Just a passing though that may be of some use to you; Californian Air Tools range of compressors seem to be generally well regarded in any reviews / comments that I've seen - a bit more power than required for airbrushing & a little bit louder that the likes of a Sparmax, but still reasonably well suited & available from under 200 USD. Their CAT-2050A is probably the best suited from their range. Martin.
  5. Stephen, Pricing is down to volume & I'm afraid that without reasonable volume (which we wouldn't have on 110V) pricing goes out the window....... A couple of thoughts though; We have a few 110V customers that are using 230/240V equipment with voltage convertors. Sourcing a compressor from somewhere with a 110V mains supply may also be an option (Taiwan comes to mind) - don't know from where or what the shipping cost would be like, but it may be worth a search. Not very positive, but hope it helps, Martin.
  6. iSteve, Glad you are enjoying your purchase & thank you for your comments! I would obviously like to take all the credit, but H&S in their infinite wisdom recently released the "Infinity CRPlus 2in1 #2" version with 0.2 & 0.4mm as standard - generally a combination better suited to the scale modeller than the 0.15 / 0.4mm combination. Thanks.
  7. Sparmax make a "nozzle repair tool" for this, probably better called a nozzle thread extractor - it's basically a fine steel pin with a pointed tip that has flattened edges much like a straight flute screw extractor. Insert the tool into the nozzle thread, push to allow the edges of the tool to grip & then unscrew, the flutes gripping the inner side of the nozzle thread.
  8. All the best & productive modelling to all for 2017!
  9. No answers as such, but a couple of things that cross my mind; Solvent pop A layer of solvent paint over another layer that hasn't fully outgassed can cause bubbles to form from the evaporating solvent being release from the lower level. The bubbles often pop, leaving a cratered, pitted look & the problem can be exacerbated by over heavy top coats Moisture blisters Leave a similar cratered finish as above & is caused by fine moisture in the airflow or high humidity. This may not be apparent (or at least as apparent) with acrylics. It might be worth sticking something like "common spray paint defects" into /-insert favourite search engine here-/ & having a look through the results. The vast majority of hits will be from the auto refinishing game, but generally speaking they are applicable
  10. The DHW isn't pumped as such, but (on the Grant anyway) the incoming cold goes straight through the "cold" side of the heat exchanger & then straight out to taps, shower, whatever. The "hot" side of the heat exchanger relies on the pump to circulate hot water from the heat store through the "hot" side of the exchanger.
  11. I had a similar issue with a Grant combi oil boiler a year or so ago - CH fine, poor & then non existent DHW, although the boiler was firing for a short period when DHW was requested. I was lucky enough to be able to substitute most of the suspect parts to find out what the issue was, tried the flow switches, diverter valve & blend valve without luck. One part that hadn't crossed my mind was the pump - I thought that it was for CH only & that as the CH seemed to be fine, there wasn't an issue with the pump. Turned out that the pump was U/S & that the CH was being heated by convection, swapped out the pump & bingo, all fine. The boiler was firing fine for DHW, but as soon as the water reached temperature it was cutting out as the heated water wasn't going anywhere - if that makes sense.
  12. Not a problem & thank you!
  13. It does sound like the valve closure screw is too tight - just back it off until you find it comfortable.
  14. The HP-B+ may give the margin that your looking for (or HP-BH if you want / require the MAC valve) & should also feel more than familiar if your using an HP-CH already, as excluding the 0.2mm nozzle, smaller paint cup & shorter nose, the HP-B+ / HP-BH are basically the same as the HP-C+ / HP-CH. The CM-B (0.18) would probably be the optimum choice & realistically hard to beat, but it comes at a substantial price hike over an HP-B+ (give or take twice the price). Other viable alternatives would be the Mr Hobby Procon Boy FWA Platinum / PS-270 (0.2mm - it's pretty similar to the HP / Hi-line series, supplied with MAC valve, crown cap & paint cup lid, but doesn't have the short nose or small paint cup of the Iwata "B's") or the Mr Airbrush Custom 0.18 / PS-770. The PS-770 is very similar is spec & build to the Iwata CM-C+, but has an 0.18mm nozzle set similar to the CM-B's, it doesn't however have the specially hand matched / fettled head treatment that the Custom Micron's do.
  15. No problem at all Joe - a pleasure & thank you!