Jetblast

I get the impression that once something is initially accepted into RM's system, via depot or hub it gets the green stamp to proceed without any further intervention, that's fine, but I get the impression that; Deliveries from abroad are accepted into the system on the basis of being properly checked at the originating location without question. Deliveries originating from the UK regardless of their destination are far more stringently checked. I've had numerous deliveries end up at RM's National Returns Depot in Belfast for "fake" reasons, one of which sticks in my mind - Customer orders a compact spray gun on Special Delivery & it gets sent straight to Belfast after x-ray scanning as it resembles a firearm (pistol grip I assume), a replacement order sent out by 2nd class post (to avoid air), but due to spare air capacity it ends up going by air, the paint cup union rattles much like a rattle can assuring an x-ray inspection, inspection reveals a metal cylinder-ish thing (the paint cup) which must be an aerosol & the 2nd order is on it's way to Belfast as well..... To add insult to injury it took several weeks to get the stock back on the shelf.

RM will not accept hazardous goods per-se, but they are doing end point delivery for the vast majority of Parcelforce deliveries & these can legitimately contain declared hazardous goods...... confusing. A guess tells me that this is because RM can't guarantee "by road" transport for UK deliveries & regularly use air for premium services & when contracted air freight space allows, not so premium services as well. Parcelforce on the other hand trunk by road & avoid the complication of air. It still doesn't answer why all sorts of hazardous & prohibited items are coming in from abroad by regular (and sometimes unbelievably cheap) mail, ranging from "regular" hazardous goods like aerosols, to fireworks & a whole lot more....

123910 is the correct kit. 123911 has an extra two needle seals for the CR Plus's long life, triple needle seal - you can fit / use this with the Silverline but you would also require the longer needle seal retaining screw (126470 / £2.50).

56.8N Cheers NASA

I looked at the 1st post on the thread & it immediately reminded me of the much loved Coastal Command booklet that I had when I was younger, went to the 2nd post & wow, there it is! The copy that I had came via someone that was with Coastal Command at the time of it's publication & I was clearly told to take b***** good care of it, which I did - just a shame that one of my "mates" at the time decided to sneak it away.... Thanks for the memory.

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A updated version of the ever popular Sparmax TC-610H is now available, the TC-610H Plus. The Plus model is mechanically the same as the TC-610H, but features an updated case similar in design to that of the TC-620X, with the regulator & pressure gauge now mounted in the case top for easier access & added protection, also included are a pair of removable airbrush stands - price remains unchanged at £164.99;

Stephen, Just a passing though that may be of some use to you; Californian Air Tools range of compressors seem to be generally well regarded in any reviews / comments that I've seen - a bit more power than required for airbrushing & a little bit louder that the likes of a Sparmax, but still reasonably well suited & available from under 200 USD. Their CAT-2050A is probably the best suited from their range. Martin.

Stephen, Pricing is down to volume & I'm afraid that without reasonable volume (which we wouldn't have on 110V) pricing goes out the window....... A couple of thoughts though; We have a few 110V customers that are using 230/240V equipment with voltage convertors. Sourcing a compressor from somewhere with a 110V mains supply may also be an option (Taiwan comes to mind) - don't know from where or what the shipping cost would be like, but it may be worth a search. Not very positive, but hope it helps, Martin.

iSteve, Glad you are enjoying your purchase & thank you for your comments! I would obviously like to take all the credit, but H&S in their infinite wisdom recently released the "Infinity CRPlus 2in1 #2" version with 0.2 & 0.4mm as standard - generally a combination better suited to the scale modeller than the 0.15 / 0.4mm combination. Thanks.

Sparmax make a "nozzle repair tool" for this, probably better called a nozzle thread extractor - it's basically a fine steel pin with a pointed tip that has flattened edges much like a straight flute screw extractor. Insert the tool into the nozzle thread, push to allow the edges of the tool to grip & then unscrew, the flutes gripping the inner side of the nozzle thread.

All the best & productive modelling to all for 2017!

No answers as such, but a couple of things that cross my mind; Solvent pop A layer of solvent paint over another layer that hasn't fully outgassed can cause bubbles to form from the evaporating solvent being release from the lower level. The bubbles often pop, leaving a cratered, pitted look & the problem can be exacerbated by over heavy top coats Moisture blisters Leave a similar cratered finish as above & is caused by fine moisture in the airflow or high humidity. This may not be apparent (or at least as apparent) with acrylics. It might be worth sticking something like "common spray paint defects" into /-insert favourite search engine here-/ & having a look through the results. The vast majority of hits will be from the auto refinishing game, but generally speaking they are applicable

The DHW isn't pumped as such, but (on the Grant anyway) the incoming cold goes straight through the "cold" side of the heat exchanger & then straight out to taps, shower, whatever. The "hot" side of the heat exchanger relies on the pump to circulate hot water from the heat store through the "hot" side of the exchanger.

I had a similar issue with a Grant combi oil boiler a year or so ago - CH fine, poor & then non existent DHW, although the boiler was firing for a short period when DHW was requested. I was lucky enough to be able to substitute most of the suspect parts to find out what the issue was, tried the flow switches, diverter valve & blend valve without luck. One part that hadn't crossed my mind was the pump - I thought that it was for CH only & that as the CH seemed to be fine, there wasn't an issue with the pump. Turned out that the pump was U/S & that the CH was being heated by convection, swapped out the pump & bingo, all fine. The boiler was firing fine for DHW, but as soon as the water reached temperature it was cutting out as the heated water wasn't going anywhere - if that makes sense.