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About Jetblast

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  • Birthday 11/27/1969

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    Military Aviation,Scale Modelling (Cold War, big, pointy, fast stuff),Airbrushing, Mountain biking.

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  1. V1 & V2 needles are fully interchangeable, V2 needles can be identified by the size indicator at the rear end of the needle which is quite distinctive;
  2. Somewhere between 15>20psi would be about correct for a compressor with a 16 L/Min air flow rating paired with an Eclipse. The compressor can only achieve 50psi in a static / closed scenario & as soon as air starts flowing the maximum operating pressure will drop to whatever the compressor is capable of sustaining in an open "dynamic" situation. The Eclipse also has a healthy appetite for air, which won't help the situation. Best way to explain - connect a syringe needle which restricts airflow & you would probably get around 45psi, but connect a drainpipe which doesn't restrict airflow & you may be lucky to see a couple of psi.
  3. If you do go for syringes, the BD / Plastipak ones with the purple plunger are not so clever & seem to start binding at the 1st sniff of even acrylic thinners. if you can find them the Baxa Exata-Med oral syringes are far superior - look for a white plunger & blue graduation markings.
  4. Disposable syringes or pipettes. I typically use 1, 3 or 5ml disposable syringes - drawing the paint out of it's container & dropping it into the likes of an old Tamiya paint jar, then doing the same with the thinner. A few pumps on the syringe plunger takes care of mixing & then it's just poured into the airbrush paint cup. Measuring with the 1ml syringe is easiest - X syringes full of paint & Y of thinners. Syringes don't work so well with hot paint though as the plunger seals swell & the plunger binds in the barrel.....
  5. Bubbles in the cup are a sure sign of a split / chipped / damaged nozzle tip or a scored / worn nozzle seal. Unless the needle is damaged (read bent at the tip) there is no need to change it at all. The needle is stainless steel & far harder than the nozzle, so needles don't really suffer significantly from wear, just impact damage.
  6. Mr Color Super metallic is based on the Mr Color range & should be thinned with Mr Color Thinner or Mr Color Levelling Thinner.
  7. Part 27 is stacked on top of the air valve plunger & to get it out of the way, remove the air valve assembly (33) & just push the cam (29) rearwards. The cam has a ramp on it that will push 27 downwards & out of the way & allow cam removal.
  8. I think (don't know if that's a good idea...) that it's "Brilliant Blue" / LY5K.
  9. The Sparmax AC-501X may be worth considering - within budget, reasonably quiet, automatic & with a proper regulator rather than a bleed valve. Typically oil free compressor noise output is directly related to power / airflow, with around 50dbA being normal for a 1/8HP unit with 15 L/Min output or therabouts - quiet enough to have a conversation while running (the compressor that is!) without having to raise your voice. The "exhaust" noise associated with Sil-Air compressor (15 & 30 series only) comes from the unloader valve which is operated at the end of each run cycle, it's purpose is to reduce pressure on the motor / pump side so that the motor has negligible start up load to contend with. Easing the load at start up allows a less powerful & consequently quieter motor to be used & it's this which allows the Sil-Air 15 series models to run a 30dbA. Removing the unloader would require an increase in motor power / noise & that's you back up to 40dbA like the Sil-Air 50 series or Bambi's.
  10. Mr Hobby Aqueous H328 FS15050 Blue or Tamiya X-3 Royal Blue appear pretty similar.
  11. A few images I've managed to dig out if they help; Covers removed (moisture & gunk all normal); NRV; Healthy liner / piston / flapper; Healthy piston seal (worn seal material on seal edge);
  12. An undercover Sparmax AC-500 I believe. If there is a audible leak from one of the cylinders when the compressor isn't running, it will be the non return valve for that cylinder. The NRV's aren't prone to failure, but can become gummed up with crud (shed seal material &/or mould) which prevents them from closing fully, these are pretty easy to access, strip & clean. Remove the 8 Allen screws holding the finned cylinder covers on, lift the covers off together & you will now be looking at the black or possibly silver cylinder plates with the NRV's mounted in the centres of the plates. Remove the cylinder plates & wash them in hot soapy water, possibly removing the NRV's for more thorough cleaning if they are obviously caked in crud. While you have the cylinder plates off, check the condition of the piston crown flapper valves & the piston seals - flapper valves can work loose, moving into the wrong position & can snap / break, piston seals degrade with time & will eventually wear our, usually signified by obvious scoring on the liner & quite a bit of noise while running. If you have a piston (bonded PTFE seal) or liner issue, the parts will be available (may take a bit of hunting right enough), but you will be looking at around £30/£35 for a single set & needless to say if one set happens to be toast, the other will not be far away, so £60/£70...
  13. Yes - BSP-P fittings will not seal on the thread alone & require either PTFE tape or liquid sealant.
  14. Yes, that's the correct part & no that isn't the best price.
  15. Jetblast

    About us;

    www.air-craft.net is the website of Air Tech Equipment Ltd - We are an UK based online retailer specialising in airbrushing equipment, spares & accessories along with a selection of modelling related paint, tools, masking, abrasives, accessories & what not. Our website shows live stock levels & we do not support back ordering, so with the exception of the very occasional stock level errors, if it's indicated as in stock, it is physically in stock. We ship around the globe, using Royal Mail & Parcelforce in the UK, Royal Mail Airmail & Parcelforce / GLS in Europe & Royal Mail Airmail, TNT & UPS for orders beyond Europe, orders generally ship the same or next working day. We can accept PayPal, credit card or bank transfer as payment methods & for added security our website is HTTPS throughout. We are direct importers or official resellers for all the products we sell, are familiar with the technical aspects of all equipment listed & have a significant range of spares to support said equipment. We are happy to advise on any airbrush equipment related enquiries, but I'm afraid we don't have a team of receptionist & sometimes struggle to get to the phone during busier periods - If you don't get a reply & prefer not to leave a message you can email us on sales@air-craft.net & we will respond as soon as we can. Harder & Steenbeck - airbrushes, spares & accessories Iwata - airbrushes, compressors, spares & accessories Sparmax - compressors, airbrushes, spares & accessories Mr Hobby - airbrushes, spares, paints & accessories Neo for Iwata - airbrushes, spares & accessories Werther Sil-Air - silenced compressors & spares Benchvent - spray booths Tamiya - paints, tools, masking & accessories Swann Morton - knives & blades Olfa - knives, cutters & blades Micro-Mesh - abrasives Flex-I-File - abrasives & adhesives Model Craft - tools Ultimate Modelling Products - cleaner, thinner & primers Others - Xuron, 3M, Light Craft, Artool, Aircom, Adhesives, Brushes.......... Thanks for looking, Martin Ferguson, Air Tech Equipment Ltd.
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