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Jetblast

Gold Member
  • Content count

    409
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About Jetblast

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 27/11/1969

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  • Website URL
    http://www.air-craft.net
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Scotland
  • Interests
    Military Aviation,Scale Modelling (Cold War, big, pointy, fast stuff),Airbrushing, Mountain biking.

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6,938 profile views
  1. Jetblast

    Simair tc5000 compressor internal air leak

    A few images I've managed to dig out if they help; Covers removed (moisture & gunk all normal); NRV; Healthy liner / piston / flapper; Healthy piston seal (worn seal material on seal edge);
  2. Jetblast

    Simair tc5000 compressor internal air leak

    An undercover Sparmax AC-500 I believe. If there is a audible leak from one of the cylinders when the compressor isn't running, it will be the non return valve for that cylinder. The NRV's aren't prone to failure, but can become gummed up with crud (shed seal material &/or mould) which prevents them from closing fully, these are pretty easy to access, strip & clean. Remove the 8 Allen screws holding the finned cylinder covers on, lift the covers off together & you will now be looking at the black or possibly silver cylinder plates with the NRV's mounted in the centres of the plates. Remove the cylinder plates & wash them in hot soapy water, possibly removing the NRV's for more thorough cleaning if they are obviously caked in crud. While you have the cylinder plates off, check the condition of the piston crown flapper valves & the piston seals - flapper valves can work loose, moving into the wrong position & can snap / break, piston seals degrade with time & will eventually wear our, usually signified by obvious scoring on the liner & quite a bit of noise while running. If you have a piston (bonded PTFE seal) or liner issue, the parts will be available (may take a bit of hunting right enough), but you will be looking at around £30/£35 for a single set & needless to say if one set happens to be toast, the other will not be far away, so £60/£70...
  3. Jetblast

    Compressor Leak

    Yes - BSP-P fittings will not seal on the thread alone & require either PTFE tape or liquid sealant.
  4. Jetblast

    Upgrading nozzle/cap

    Yes, that's the correct part & no that isn't the best price.
  5. Jetblast

    Fuel economy

    A quick look suggests that the box would probably come from a diesel model & wouldn't be suited to a petrol engine - due to the differences in torque between petrol / diesel 6th would be like some sort of non responsive super overdrive. Quite a few other things that may require changing to fit - flywheel, clutch, driveshaft's, clutch slave & possibly more. It's not a particularly quick job & I think by the time you compared outlay against savings it wouldn't be worthwhile - add to that your only real source for a box would be a breaker & ultimately you wouldn't know where it came from or what condition it was really in.
  6. Jetblast

    Fuel economy

    Not all dealers need that level of persuasion & can see the issue for what it is - honest. It's a problem that has huge potential for expense & headaches all round, S5 - I hope your fix isn't this one.
  7. Jetblast

    About us;

    www.air-craft.net is the website of Air Tech Equipment Ltd - We are an UK based online retailer specialising in airbrushing equipment, spares & accessories along with a selection of modelling related paint, tools, masking, abrasives, accessories & what not. Our website shows live stock levels & we do not support back ordering, so with the exception of the very occasional stock level errors, if it's indicated as in stock, it is physically in stock. We ship around the globe, using Royal Mail & Parcelforce in the UK, Royal Mail Airmail & Parcelforce / GLS in Europe & Royal Mail Airmail, TNT & UPS for orders beyond Europe, orders generally ship the same or next working day. We can accept PayPal, credit card or bank transfer as payment methods & for added security our website is HTTPS throughout. We are direct importers or official resellers for all the products we sell, are familiar with the technical aspects of all equipment listed & have a significant range of spares to support said equipment. We are happy to advise on any airbrush equipment related enquiries, but I'm afraid we don't have a team of receptionist & sometimes struggle to get to the phone during busier periods - If you don't get a reply & prefer not to leave a message you can email us on sales@air-craft.net & we will respond as soon as we can. Harder & Steenbeck - airbrushes, spares & accessories Iwata - airbrushes, compressors, spares & accessories Sparmax - compressors, airbrushes, spares & accessories Mr Hobby - airbrushes, spares, paints & accessories Neo for Iwata - airbrushes, spares & accessories Werther Sil-Air - silenced compressors & spares Benchvent - spray booths Tamiya - paints, tools, masking & accessories Swann Morton - knives & blades Olfa - knives, cutters & blades Micro-Mesh - abrasives Flex-I-File - abrasives & adhesives Model Craft - tools Ultimate Modelling Products - cleaner, thinner & primers Others - Xuron, 3M, Light Craft, Artool, Aircom, Adhesives, Brushes.......... Thanks for looking, Martin Ferguson, Air Tech Equipment Ltd.
  8. Jetblast

    Fuel economy

    Some of the twin cam engines in the Mk2 Focus suffered from water ingress into the spark plug recesses - rain water leaks through ill fitting windscreen washer jets on the bonnet, collects on the cam cover & seeps through the plug lead seals into the area below the cam cover & ends up in the plug recesses. This issue can cause severe corrosion around the spark plug threads, to the degree that trying to remove the plugs can cause the plug inserts to become damaged or threaded. The above can result in a reluctance to replace spark plugs at the recommended intervals, potentialy leaving vehicle with well worn & poorly performing plugs which can hit MPG.... From memory it's one of the 1.6 engine thats worst for this & I can't remember if the 1.8 is as vulnerable....... scraped the recesses of the grey matter & just can't drag it out. I'm running a 2.0 Turbo 16V petrol with a reasonably heavy right foot & unless I was being a complete hero driver on a hill climb or on the autobhan I would be surprised at MPG as poor as your fuel computer is indicating.
  9. Jetblast

    Info needed please, on MIDGES in Scotland.

    When younger I went on annual camping expeditions for a fortnight during the summer holidays with my Grandfather, a bit like the North Coast 500 finishing up with family in Tongue & Ullapool was a regular stop-off - best fish & chip's came from a caravan on the pier. Ullapool went down the pan a bit in the 80's when the Russian factory ships arrived in Loch Broom, think a loch full of large, dirty rusting ships & streets full of drunken Russian sailors at the weekend (officially they didn't come ashore, but they definitely did), that thankfully finished years ago & the place is back to what it was. If your better half is the sort that comes out in small red bites that irritate forever when she is bitten it might be worth trying antihistamines, the sort that you buy over the counter to prevent sun rashes & what not generally help.
  10. Jetblast

    Info needed please, on MIDGES in Scotland.

    I live in the thick of it (or them...) & can offer the following; Central Belt Northwards is were it's all at, with the West being far worse than the East. I've travelled the area plenty over the years & by a large margin the worst I have ever experienced have been in the Torridon area (consistently!!). They don't much like the wind or even a breeze, so costal areas are best in the West, although maybe replace "coastal" with "on the coast within line of sight of the water". They are bad when it's damp / drizzly & at their worst immediately after it's been raining. On hot sunny days they are not as much of a problem (hot sunny days here are another subject altogether though...). Bogs, peaty ground & forests are where they are at their worst Skin-so-soft works as well as any of the special / expensive products. Gas midge eating contraptions absolutely work, but you need to be in reasonable proximity & they are not portable, so they are only of use on patio's, communal areas & the likes. I've been trying to beat them for the best part of 5 decades now & it's still generally a case of avoiding them wherever possible by covering up or going indoors. Long sleeves are the order of the day & hoods / nets are well worth the investment - don't concern yourself with looking like a fool in a net, it's a damn sight less painful than being attacked! This isn't far from where I'm at & apart from missing wings, it appears to be anatomically accurate;
  11. Jetblast

    hello

    We are still here, but previous posts have disappeared into the ether with a forum issue I'm afraid - I guess you could call it a post apocalypse..... We will try & get some relevant posts up over the next week or so
  12. An attempt at USCG that didn't exist? Columbia Helicopters have a few Chinooks that similarily look the part; As do Helimax;
  13. Jetblast

    Scratched CD and future.

    Not sure about Future & you may have to polish afterwards. Heavy wax (furniture, car, whatever) seems to be useful for filling deeper scratches, pile on & polish off - the scratch may remain visible when finished, but it should / might read properly.
  14. Jetblast

    Revell Omega leaking oil - any pointers?

    If there is oil spillage it's most likley coming from the cover seal or air intake filter - this can be caused by moving the compressor & letting the oil slop about inside or running the compressor on an incline. The only other place the motor case can leak from is the sight bubble, unlikley, but if the gasket / seal has failed, possible. A reducing oil level with no spillage suggests that the oil is passing into the air tank, this can be caused by oil passed it best, motor/pump overheating or at worst a worn head. This can be easily checked for by filling to pressure & draining from the drain screw - a small amount of oil is not unusual, but mainly oil is.
  15. Jetblast

    Recommendation for needle sizes

    I've found time between mixing & spraying with some Tamiya & other metallics to be an issue, the less the better so there isn't such an opportunity for separation. You can generally see which paints will be worst affected by watching the surface after you have mixed & some will start rapidly doing their own thing as soon as you stop mixing - I'll typically try to get it mixed, in the cup & sprayed as soon as possible & for larger jobs will prepare what's required, but only put a few ml of paint into the cup at a time, stirring & refilling as I go, it's a pain but helps prevent settling.
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