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About bmwh548

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  1. bmwh548

    Any point in buying 0,2 airbrush?

    When I got the H&S Ultra I did a side by side comparison with the cheapo BD-180 (Iwata design copy). The cheap stuff is not even in the same league despite the fact they both had 0.2 nozzle/needle in them and using the same paint.
  2. bmwh548

    Iwata Freestyle Air Battery Powered Compressor

    Outdoor painting is a pain in the backside. Insects, dust, polen...they tend to get caught in the paint and you waste time fixing issues after.
  3. bmwh548

    Iwata Freestyle Air Battery Powered Compressor

    Portable stuff have their disadvantages. They're kinda loud, the motor heats up like crazy, the air pressure is limited (but should be in the modeling range) and if your painting session goes on you might get unlucky and see the compressor shutdown itself because of the thermal protection. Nothing like having paint in the airbrush and not being able to clean it because the compressor doesn't work. I will always advocate for the tank compressors. Much friendlier to the budget in the long term and a better experience.
  4. bmwh548

    Correcting blemishes

    You can go down the acrylic route... Even the ones like Tamiya have a very faint smell (at least to my nose). On the other hand I'm used to painting with lacquers so my opinion might not be the best You can also get/build a spray booth (it changes everything in every way). That way the smell is gone 5 minutes after you're done cleaning your airbrush.
  5. bmwh548

    Correcting blemishes

    Try to mask on panel lines (like if you need to repaint a door...just mask around it on the "shut lines"). That way it's easier. You can also mask before sanding (that way you minimize the risks of rubbing panels that don't need corrections). Also like Steve Noble was saying: try to avoid sanding metallic paints. The pigment rubs off from on top of the flakes and the sanded area gets a completely different hue. If you need to sand apply another light coat on top before applying the clear coat. That's where an airbrush comes in; the coats are much lighter so you can make several passes on an area to cover it and you don't lose details, rattle cans aren't that forgiving (used them for many years, don't miss them at all).
  6. bmwh548

    Any point in buying 0,2 airbrush?

    Advantages and disadvantages. The smaller nozzle allows for better control, minimizing flooding risks, allowing for a more...."focused" pattern. With enough practice you could freehand camo I guess (I only tried it once so not enough experience here). Disadvantage? It clogs up fast if the paint isn't thinned just right. Also clogs like a bugger with metallic paints that have larger flakes. I'm using a chinese BD-180 and an H&S Ultra, both 0.2mm nozzles. Works great for most scenarios. I switch to the 0.4mm or 0.5mm nozzles when I do large areas.
  7. bmwh548

    Sanding and polishing

    I avoid putting too much primer on (just enough to get even coverage). Obviously if I need to re-sand an area I'll give it another coat of primer on that area, but otherwise I just give it a nice coat with Mr. Surfacer 1200 (personal choice) and check for issues. If everything is ok I go on to paint (even coverage). If no problems appear I go on to clear/varnish. After that wet sand, polish, wax (just make sure the primer/paint/varnish are perfectly cured or you'll make yourself more work than necessary when trying to sand the body). Happy modeling!
  8. bmwh548

    Good value gloss acrylic varnish

    I'm a big fan of the Revell Aqua Matt/Flat clear 02. It's the only flat clear I found that can be flooded and it doesn't leave any serious white marks so I can also brush it on if I want to. I have the Gloss version too, use it sometimes, but my favorite Gloss is the Mr. Color 46 (haven't tried their GX series yet). Smelly as you would expect, but the finish is really good.
  9. bmwh548

    AK interactive metal paints

    Love the AK and MRP metallics, Gunze/Mr Hobby is also really nice, but I avoid using them on areas that could get touching (the metallic flakes get on your fingers always and there's the risk of smearing the entire model before you realize it). MRP is dry before I finish cleaning the airbrush, AK takes longer so I usually let it harden over night.
  10. bmwh548

    How to remove Tamiya X-19 Acrylic Smoke?

    I use alcohol, but as said above: try it in a hidden spot first.
  11. bmwh548

    AS-18 Compressor Problem

    Why AS18 and not an upgrade to AS189 or even 196? The tank would translate into less strain on the motor, especially if the painting sessions are a bit longer. Just remember to drain it once a month.
  12. bmwh548

    buying a new compressor and airbrush

    You could try the AS 186 from the same manufacturer. A friend bought one last year, he's quite happy with it. I'm planning on getting either that or the AS 196 sometime this year to replace my old fridge compressor.
  13. bmwh548

    Iwata Eclipse HP-CS problem

    The Eclipse has that free floating nozzle right? The nozzle cap centers it to the main airbrush body. After you screwed that on you come in with your needle, don't push to get it in the final position, just a gentle tap from behind should be enough. If you're still having problems you might have some paint residue on the tip of the nozzle or (worst case scenario) the nozzle has a tiny crack in it.
  14. bmwh548

    Primer Paint

    What's the nozzle size? Is the air pressure ok? Maybe you could add some retarders?
  15. bmwh548

    Mr Paint, lovely stuff.

    Above the "Reply to this topic" there is a "Follow" button. @Rabbit Leader: they are lacquer. Haven't used their glosses but I've played with their Chrome (which is Acrylic Lacquer) over Revell's enamels. As long as you put thin layers you're fine, but if you mess up and get pooling it will start to dissolve enamels (and probably regular acrylics).