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About bmwh548

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  1. With. Even if you work on small models. The last thing you want is your thermal protection to kick in and shut down the compressor when you're still working.
  2. They're my go to metallics. Very forgiving, good pigment and coverage. Maybe you just have a bad batch, they were famous for that. You can sort of tell by how fast the pigment separates in the bottle after being mixed. The bad ones would separate really fast.
  3. You can use Aqua through the airbrush, but it won't be a glorious experience if you're a newbie in airbrushing. If you can: use their specific thinner and some retarder. And practice on some scrap plastic (not paper) because true water based paints are much trickier than your basic solvent based paint.
  4. Paint residue in the nozzle tip, cracked nozzle or worn needle tip. I've had the later several times, a quick polish always fixed it, but it's a temporary solution. Uncommon, but possible: the middle seal might have some sludgey paint in there and the needle chuck isn't pushing the needle all the way forward.
  5. You can pick up a demagnetizer from the hardware stores. It costs like 3 euros I think.
  6. In theory you could use the 0.15 nozzle if you wanted, but IMHO they're best left for certain types of paints. It's not just about how much you thin the paint, it also has to do with the pigment size and especially metallic flake (when you're using metallics). The larger nozzle will be far more forgiving in that regard and it will allow more than adequate control for most jobs. Freehanded camo is best done with a smaller nozzle (just an example), but for most stuff the 0.4 nozzle will save you time and provide you with a good finish.
  7. What type of paint are you using? Be precise please. Some paints may form a "skin" if you leave them a bit too long. You can avoid that by adding a few drops of thinner over the top but not stirring it. If you're using a metallic paint forget about leaving them in the cup. The metallic flake will settle on the bottom and you'll make a mess when you try to resume your airbrushing session. In time you'll get better and better at eye-ing the quantities so there's almost no paint leftover in the cup when you're done. I typically have only a few drops of paint at the end so I just fl
  8. Right angles/tight corners are approached differently by users, depending on the type of paint in particular. A few questions that would help with the correct advice: What type of paint are you using (specifically)? What do you thin it with and what ratios? Are you using retarders? What air pressure (rough estimate)? Are you using primers (if so what type)? For doing right angles I go with thin paint, low pressure and I go a bit wet so that the coat of paint already applied will "assimilate" the particles that bounce off. Enamels help in that regard because they ten
  9. It could prove useful for very large surfaces. It's definitely better than a rattle can (not by much, but still...).
  10. To me it looks like the wash really grips where your paint/clearcoat is really rough which is perfectly normal. Flory actually emphasizes that in his videos (rough/textured surfaces will make the wash stick). However you can still remove it, you just need different tools for the job. Try using cotton buds and if that doesn't work switch to a medium brush dipped in water and just go at it until you take it all off. I doubt there's any chances of chipping the paint, but I would avoid a very tough brush just in case. In the future try a bit more sanding on the seams/right angles so y
  11. Doesn't it actually say that on the knob?
  12. Maybe I'm missing something, but why would it be "cubed"? You're discussing weight not volume. Edit: never mind, me stupid.
  13. Lacquer thinner. Careful with rubber seals if you have any.
  14. I would go with the Infinity simply for the parts swapabillity (not sure if that's a word) with the Ultra. Needle, nozzle and front end will fit both so in a pinch when you've bent a needle or cracked a nozzle you can just grab one from the other brush. If the Infinity is a bit out of the budget you can always consider getting an Evolution with the quick fix back end.
  15. You can decant from the rattle can. The brush can be cleaned with lacquer thinner. I remember that Tamiya has a version as well, but I have no idea what it's called. Something I didn't mention previously: Mr. Metal Primer remains slightly tacky even after drying. When I first used it I didn't know if that's normal, I emailed Gunze and they told me it's designed to stay tacky so paint grips better to it.
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