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About bmwh548

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  1. bmwh548

    Badger 150 problems

    Oops, my mistake. I just realized I said something stupid. I was thinking of the Aztek airbrushes for some reason, sorry. With intermittent paint flow it's most likely a paint mix issue (or dirty nozzle, but you changed that already so we'll rule that out). Try a drop of retarder and just a bit more thinner. See if that fixes it.
  2. bmwh548

    Badger 150 problems

    Cold temperature tends to make paint thicker. That's why I add a bit more thinner in the cold weather. I'm not used to Badger's mechanics, but I remember reading other topics and sometimes the air hose inside the airbrush gets clogged, maybe that's also an issue.
  3. bmwh548

    What am I not getting about Acrylic paint?

    In terms of enamels/lacquers there's Mr. Color (for pretty much everything), AK Interactive (for metallic paints) and the rest IMHO. I have a few bottles of MRP. they spray nice, but they don't really match my painting style and they can be really aggressive with the undercoats in certain conditions (and even with styrene). I can flood an area with Mr. Color because I know it'll come back beautifully, but I can never do it with MRP. Also Mr. Color tend to be thick paints so from one bottle of paint I get about 3 times the amount after diluting. I always use their Leveling thinner, brilliant stuff. And the GX series varnishes? Man, those are incredible. Mr. Surfacer? That will grip to plastic like a kid on his mom's trousers on the first kindergarten day. And the smell is a lot less annoying than Revell's enamels (or Model Master for that matter). PS: all suggestions are made based on my experiences airbrushing them, I really hate brush painting.
  4. bmwh548

    Settled paint - salvageable or replace?

    Make sure you put stainless steel nuts or in a few months they'll rust and ruin the paint. Been there, done that in my early days with some waterbased acrylics.
  5. bmwh548

    Settled paint - salvageable or replace?

    Get some stainless steel nuts or ball bearings (if you go for the ball bearings be careful when you squeeze out paint) and put them in the bottles. One or two in each should be enough. Shake them like there's no tomorrow and see if it does the trick. If you plan on airbrushing them make the mix externally and examine it before putting it in the cup.
  6. bmwh548

    Yet another Alclad question

    AK Interactive. I have their polished aluminium and it looks really good after drying. I've clearcoated it with Mr. Color GX112 with no loss to it's sheen.
  7. There is no such thing as a non-toxic glue. Well, there is, but it doesn't melt styrene to give you the weld action bonding. All glues should be used with ventilation and in small amounts. I use Mr. Cement S for smaller joints the need to cure fast and Revell Contacta for large joints as it's thicker and it evaporates slowly.
  8. No it isn't. Glue is designed to glue. Period. You have absolutely no control over it when you brush it and the risk of destroying the model is significant. The styrene that gets hit by too much glue will melt and change "structure" becoming brittle at some point and then you can toss the model into the bin. Also you'll be destroying the surface detail because on each brush stroke you'll probably "pull" rivets away and flood panel lines with surrounding plastic. Also all cements/solvents that are capable of melting styrene are very toxic and are designed to be used in small amounts. I'm very used to powerful smells (working with lacquers almost daily) but I would never try to use that much solvent without an incredibly good ventilation. Judging by your questions/topics I'm going to take a wild guess and say you're a beginner in the model making hobby? I remember the eagerness I myself had in the beginning, but trust me, this isn't a hobby that you make quick progress in. If you have bad seams with gaps they need putty/filler and that needs to dry properly before sanding. Best tip is to apply it in the evening and let it dry overnight. If you have bad seams because you used too much glue and it "oozed out" you let it dry and then you sand it. After all the sanding is done you use primer. After the primer is dry you use sanding paper/sticks/whatever. Rushing everything will either get you into more trouble having to fix problems either giving you a very poor model in the end.
  9. All 1 part putties shrink. The 2 part ones (or epoxi) don't really shrink because those rely on the chemical reaction between the 2 components to harden, not on the evaporation of the solvent.
  10. You get a bottle of cement (Tamiya, Gunze doesn't really matter), add small pieces of styrene inside (preferably styrene sheet, not old sprues), let it sit for a day or two and then you can use it as filler. The viscosity depends on how much styrene you put in. It's really good for filling gaps (thin layers though, you need to build it up) because after it's dry it has the same hardness as the surrounding plastic and it will react in the same way to sanding, rescribing, paint... If you're determined to use putty/filler you could try Revell as it dries hard and it has really good grip. On the downside it's a bit annoying to apply.
  11. bmwh548

    Tinting Clear Parts

    Not sure how strong you want the tint to be. I always brush paint the tail lights on 1:24 and even 1:18 model cars and I use Tamiya and Mr. Hobby clear paints (acrylics). You can try it on some scrap (maybe some CD clear cases if you don't have any plexiglass laying around). I just apply it in a rather thick coat (yes, I know, blasphemy) and let it self level. You can add a drop of retarder to help it. If you're getting frosting there's 2 possible reasons in my experience: 1. the distance from the airbrush to the part is too big and the paint is drying in mid air (is the surface very rough after the paint fully dries?) 2. the pressure is too big and it's drying the paint in mid air There's also number 3: too thick coats and the flattening agent builds up, but you're using gloss paints so we'll ignore that one.
  12. Cut small strips of similar styrene, put them in the gap and then use some styrene filler over it. Let it dry, add more styrene filler if needed.
  13. bmwh548

    Highlighting Issues

    Those work for the everything but the nozzle itself on these airbrushes.
  14. bmwh548

    Highlighting Issues

    Get some cotton or even some fabric from an old T-shirt or whatever. Cut very thin strips (about a millimeter in diameter) and feed one end through the nozzle (not a lot, just enough for it to get in there). Then take an old needle and push the strip all the way through so it goes through the nozzle tip (don't force it or you'll crack the nozzle, if it doesn't go just take it out and make the piece thinner). When it's in that position put a few drops of thinner and start moving the strip inside the nozzle (front and back, circle) a few times. Pull it out through the back and examine it. Repeat until the piece is clean. If you think you have paint in the air channel grab a piece of thin steel wire and feed it through from the front until it gets to the air valve. Move it around see if it dislodges anything. With the airbrush completely apart you can use some lacquer type thinner to soak it and repeat the process. Just make sure you don't soak any rubber seals. Also keep in mind that the more you take it apart the more stress you put on the seals. They're very poor quality and tend to fall apart from too much "handling".
  15. bmwh548

    Highlighting Issues

    Are you sure the nozzle cap is the correct one? Maybe you have a small one on a big nozzle. That wouldn't allow for enough air to flow which would make it hard to spray paint. If you have a set of small drill bits you can put one through the nozzle cap, maybe when they plated the parts too much chrome/nickel whatever got stuck on the opening. Also you can't expect to be using the same air pressure in all airbrushes. I have a BD-130, a BD-180 and an Ultra. They all require different air adjustments. I can run the Ultra at 1bar (about 15psi), but for the other ones to work I need around 1.5bar (around 20psi). And that's with the same paint.