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About bmwh548

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  1. If you have an airbrush go with a 50-50 mix Mr. Surfacer 1000-1200 to thinner (I use their own Leveling thinner) and adjust from there (you can even go as far as 70 thinner to 30 primer). The 500 one can be used too, but it will need a lot more thinning. Personally I use the 500 one for minor repairs (like small seam lines or ejector pins). If you don't have an airbrush they make spray cans with Mr. Surfacer. Welcome to the forum
  2. bmwh548

    Cement types?

    The regular styrene cement is too soft for ABS and you won't get the "weld action" required. That is why you have dedicated ABS cement.
  3. I use to do it with tweezers when I was too lazy to reach for the "wrench". It's not the unscrewing that's problematic, it's the screwing back on. You need to "feel" it or you'll break it and you'll end up needing a new one.
  4. Could you ask someone to 3D print you a square/hexagonal piece you could stick on the very end of the handle? It shouldn't be in the way while working and it should easily keep the handle from searching for your feet.
  5. You could do it with an astable circuit, but you'll need to tweak the timing to your liking. I did one a very long time ago to simulate hazard lights on a modelcar. I'm sure you could pick one up online nowadays for pennies.
  6. Are you referring to the nozzle cap or needle cap? Since your view inside the nozzle cap is obstructed while it's attached to the airbrush I'm guessing it's the needle cap you're having the issue with? If paint is accumulating in there you should rule out the possibility of a malfunction first. I would give it a good clean and then put some drops of water in the paint cup. I would use water instead of thinner because it will evaporate much slower and give you the chance to notice if there's any build-up inside the needle cap without messing with the trigger. If there is build-up -> bad
  7. I use Green Stuff World inkjet sheets (white and transparent) with Micro Liquid decal film over them. Works good.
  8. Sil Air is a fancy DIY fridge compressor. Yes, it's well put together and everything, but it's the same thing. My DIY fridge compressor has been getting the job done for about 10 years I think. All I changed were the hoses, the rubber hardens over time (probably because of the oil degrading it). I was lucky enough to get a stainless steel tank that's rated for way more than I put in it, but a steel tank should suffice provided it's a good one. I'm not sure, but I think you might be able to adapt one of those Sparmax "extra" tanks for what you need. I think those already had the pre
  9. Braided hoses for the connections, make sure you secure them using jubilee clips. You get the pressure switch from a hardware store (mine has the thresholds at 2 and 6 bar), the wiring diagram should be on the packaging. You'll need a moisture trap with a regulator, you should find it at the hardware store. The joints, PTFE tape and other small bits from the hardware store. In the most basic setup you'll also need a one way valve between the tank and the compressor to allow the compressor to get going against the pressure in the system. You'll need to top up the oil
  10. I use the 0.4 set. It's more than adequate for metallics. Maybe make the mix just a bit leaner than a normal one though. I haven't sprayed Tamiya metallics in ages, but the flake in the normal acrylic range used to be a bit big compared to other manufacturers. I understand that their lacquers are far better in that department.
  11. I wasn't aware of the type of Iwata you're using, I think some of them actually have an O-ring for the nozzle. Anyway, it's probably just the thread sealant that needs to be redone, perhaps enamel thinner eats through it easier than other stuff. You can get either thread sealant or teflon tape from hardware stores. The thread sealant is used for gas hose joints around here (it's a green paste). The teflon tape might be a bit tricky to put on, especially around the nozzle thread. If the PTFE seal on the needle is loose just give it a bit of a twist and check it.
  12. He's most likely referring to the "rubber" seals at the front of the airbrush.
  13. T-101 and T-104 are the same stuff, just different size bottle. T-106 and T-108 are the same stuff, just different size bottle. The dark blue label one is the standard stuff, I use to use it years ago, nothing wrong with it. The yellow label one is the one with retarder in it, it's my go to thinner for all lacquers, solvent based acrylics (like Tamiya) and some enamels. It allows for the paint to settle better (useful particularly with gloss finishes). They also make Rapid thinner (red-ish label) which is supposed to be excellent for flat finishes and metallics, I keep for
  14. It really depends on the enamels. The old school ones like Revell and Humbrol stink up the place. I can still smell Revell residue on my booth's fan days after spraying them, which is why I tend to avoid them. AK's metallics on the other hand are also enamels, but they're alcohol based, the smell is much more tolerable for my nose (and this is a nose that is used to automotive paint). I strongly suggest buying or making a spray booth, it will allow you to use whatever paints you want without intoxicating yourself or the household members.
  15. Enamels and lacquers stink to high heaven, so I guess they're a big no-no for you. Try the specialized metallic range from Vallejo, haven't used them myself, but I've heard good things about them. You could give Tamiya's acrylics a go (with retarder), but their metallics are a bit flakey.
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