Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

bmwh548

Members
  • Content Count

    179
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

64 Good

About bmwh548

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Romania

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You mixed up your thinners. The Aqueous one is designed for their "acrylic" range. For the lacquer products (Mr Color and the GX series) you need the Mr. Color thinner or the Leveling Thinner. If you have the right thinner you could try doing a mix in a cup and see how it behaves, but there is the possibility you might have to condemn the content of the bottle. If you don't have their brand thinner use some standard automotive lacquer thinner. The results aren't as good, but it works.
  2. The hose is rubber, not plastic. And rubber has a tendency of degrading over time. Exposure to direct sunlight and extreme temperatures speeds up the process. Nothing special about what happened.
  3. You can use nuts instead of ball bearings. Those won't block the "hole" and paint can flow out of the bottle. A stirrer doesn't really need to have the "paddle" at the end. Yes, it's obviously more effective but you can just use a simple heavy gauge piece of copper or aluminium bent on the stirring end (into a circle or square like shape that's small enough to fit through the bottle neck). Put the other end into a Dremel like tool and give it a good mix for a minute or two. It'll get everything mixed up. Alternatively look for something like this: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pSKiRzdfeiqfb5sV9kJTMyANe34_gRph They're almost the right size for the plastic bottles (they need to be squeezed just a bit to fit through the bottle neck), I picked a whole bag at a cheap shop (I think those were in the kitchen department) for peanuts money, they're plated which makes them very easy to clean and they do a decent job mixing everything with the help of my rotary tool.
  4. bmwh548

    Stripping paint

    You can find some pretty large plastic tubs in "pound shops" (I think that's the term?). I saw some 50cm/20cm/20cm going for a few euros in the shops we have here. Worth it in the long run because after a good clean you can reuse them for other purposes.
  5. bmwh548

    Mr Surfacer 1500

    You don't really need retarder. Make a 60-40 mix (thinner to primer) and brush it, but if you're going to do it on larger areas you will need bigger brushes or it won't get the chance to self level. Trial and error until you find the combo that works for you. The good part is that it can be sanded with no worries after fully curing so you can get rid of most brush strokes.
  6. bmwh548

    Stripping paint

    Brake fluid needs time to work. The parts need to soak for a while (at least overnight).
  7. I tried MRP over some Revell enamel gloss black. Not doing that again. Unless you apply it in extremely thin layers it will easily wrinkle the enamel undercoat. The lacquer solvent is very aggressive, I've actually seen styrene "etched" by MRP. They're really nice paints, but they need a very steady hand and tons of patience.
  8. If my memory serves me Alclad is lacquer based. It will easily eat through weaker paints and it can easily wrinkle enamels. Whenever I use MRP's Chrome (which is lacquer based) I use Mr. Hobby Gloss Black (either the old stuff or the new GX series which is lacquer based). I say go with Mr. Hobby, they dry very fast, grip is excellent and you can overcoat them with just about anything.
  9. Not sure what you understand by miniature, but dentists use some special needles to file the inside of the tooth (I'm not talking about the needles with spirals on them used for root canals, there's a different type). My dentist used some on me for filing in preparation for the "screw" that supports the crown. For the life of me I can't remember what he called them. A trip to your dentist's or maybe a supplier might help.
  10. Depends on the type of plastic. ABS is tougher and it needs a different solvent based glue than styrene for example.
  11. The ones in your picture are regular steel, AK also sells stainless steel ball bearings.
  12. Been doing car models with LEDs for years. You can get a few meters of UTP/FTP (Internet) cable and strip that. It contains 8 thin wires which are thin and tough enough for the job but thick enough so they're easy to solder. Disadvantage: a bit stiff. Old keyboards are also a good source for very flexible wires which are about the same thickness as the Internet ones. LEDs come in a huge variety of sizes nowadays, I'd say order straight from China, get 10 pieces in each size you think you need and in the future you'll know exactly what to order to suit your needs. I typically use 3mm LEDs for headlamps for example. Batteries...as big as they'll fit the space. If you're really limited you can go for AG3. It's a good balance between battery size and battery life as long as you only power 1-2 LEDs. Around here we still get Chinese lighters which have a white LED in the back end. Take that out and you find a very useful case in which you fit 3 AG3 batteries. For more LEDs you'll obviously need heavier duty batteries. At this point you should really consider R3 or R6 ones as long as you have the space. Keep in mind that regardless of the power source the LEDs will need limiting resistors (unless you buy the ones that have the resistor built in). The resistor needs to be calculated depending on the voltage supplied and on how many LEDs it needs to protect. It's also a really good way to adjust the light intensity (you can play with the resistor values until you hit the right intensity).
  13. You went in really heavy and the paint "beaded up". Clean it up and try again, but this time go nice and thin. Build up the colour slowly.
  14. MRP requires a completely different approach to the whole painting process. The coats need to be micro-thin or the paint will pool up/run because of it's water like consistency. I've read that certain colours have a poor pigment, but for most of their range they're solid. Patience and a very delicate trigger finger that's the key with them. Most recently I've used White on a 1:24 car model with no issues, dried rock hard, sandable (had some dust on a wing), very nice paint. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g-kxAiiWXieegZGSWWKxSMa222ZnWPXP
×
×
  • Create New...