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bmwh548

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  1. You can still find the diecast version. It's made by Schabak and it's an ancient model (so the body isn't exactly sharp). You might be able to use the kit's other parts to give it more detail (like the underbody, interior).
  2. As an Ultra owner/user I repeat: you need the whole Infinity nozzle and needle cap. Not just the needle cap. Unless H&S decided to do a full redesign on the Ultra front end, you still have the one piece part as standard. You can't take off the needle guard on it's own and just put another one in. So yes, you will need to spend somewhere in the 20-30 quid range if you want the pinch tip. I've had it on mine for years, it's definitely worth it. Alternatively you could get an entire set (needle, nozzle, nozzle cap, needle cap), sooner or later you'll need to replace the needle/nozzle and this way you get more for your money.
  3. You can't buy a generic one because you need the nozzle cap as well. The standard nozzle cap and needle guard are a single piece on the Ultra. If you want the two prong tip you'll have to get the Infinity set. It might feel expensive, but it's a part that will last you a lifetime.
  4. bmwh548

    Tamiya XF

    Is it an old bottle? How long did you shake/stir/mix it? Maybe the flattening agent settled on the bottom and it didn't mix properly?
  5. Happened to me with a Tamiya kit. My routine was water, soap (the standard one, no added softeners for your skin or whatever), heavy rinsing, primer and so on. Never had an issue. Until that Tamiya kit. All the primer was just flying away (Mr. Surfacer 1200). Cleaned up everything, went back for a heavy degreaser, rinse, primer. No more issues. My conclusion is that some manufacturers might be using some mould release agent that isn't easily washed away and needs a thorough clean. To clean the primer I let the parts soak in IPA overnight followed by a bit of scrubbing with a hard(er) paint brush. Worked fine, no scratches.
  6. I will sometimes use a rotary tool with a fine cutting blade and cut the sprue "frame". That way I can take out the piece still attached and then I go in with nippers while holding the small part between my fingers. The sprue flies off without damage to the part.
  7. You can use Tamiya with Mr. Color, never tried Mr. Color with X20A. I think X20A is mostly alcohol (with some added flow improver and whatnot), it might be a bit too weak for Mr. Color.
  8. I just buy the really tiny ones when packs are on sale at Lidl. Small tubes so they don't dry up before you finish one. Also dirt cheap so even if it dries up I couldn't care less.
  9. Works fine with Mr. Color and Tamiya Acrylic. Didn't try it with other stuff.
  10. It's a common problem for bright colors. Do some test runs with normal paper where you print the same thing twice, it would double the ink quantity on the paper, making it less translucent. It works fine if the printer's mechanisms are in good condition so that it prints in the same spot AND it doesn't smudge. Edit: if you're not doing it already set the printer to photo/best quality.
  11. Doesn't Revell make a range of brushes with a similar handle? Scratch that. Check this out, I think they're the manufacturers. https://www.rosemaryandco.com
  12. I use the Trumpeter one too (sold under various names). It works just fine, but you need to use light pressure to get a nice line. If you go too hard and rush it you'll get a "ditch" with burred edges. Also: pulling doesn't always give you the best result, sometimes you want to push instead. Practice makes perfect.
  13. Alternatively you could get a stainless steel tank, but it's going to be a bit of a hassle and it might need to be custom made (and honestly probably not worth it).
  14. Not all the water is going to be expelled from the tank through the bleed valve. The tank itself has various depressions inside which will allow water droplets to remain inside. You could run the motor for a minute (with the bleed valve open) to "help" the inside of the tank dry off but other than that there's not much you can do about it.
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