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About bmwh548

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  1. I believe so because I think it's meant to be sort of adjustable. As the seal wears off you tighten it a bit more. Sometimes you can block the airflow all together if you do it up fully so you need to back off.
  2. Check the air valve. Maybe the "piston" is stuck in the pressed position (swollen rubber seal from thinner or maybe some dried up paint on the PTFE seal). I'm sure it's an easy fix, probably in the heat of the moment you mixed up some seals and the piston isn't moving freely up and down. I've used the blow back method on the Ultra with no problems.
  3. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to apply the Microscale Decal Film first. After that's dry you can give it some extra protection with your gloss clear.
  4. I'd try these (in this order): Tighten the nozzle cover better (finger tight, don't use any tools). Check the seal between the nozzle and the body of the airbrush. It might be damaged or simply worn. If you have a spare fit it and check the airbrush (just put some alcohol or even water in it so you don't make a huge mess everywhere). Check the tip of the nozzle cover, there might be some paint buildup blocking the airflow, that would force air backwards towards the paint cup. Worse case scenario: the nozzle is cracked and air is making it's way through. However if that were the case you'd get paint leaking out and you didn't mention that. I've had that problem when the nozzle cover wasn't tightened properly. A minor tweak and it went back to normal.
  5. It changes the profile ever so slightly, but it's proven effective. I've done it several times and the managed not to bend the needle. I would gladly swap the needle nozzle combo if someone would bother importing the new ones, but at the moment all resellers in my country have the older models only.
  6. I have exactly the same issue you described on my Ultra. Polishing the needle when it starts behaving this way gets rid of it. Grab some nail files and some polishing compound and go for it. It takes me about 5 minutes - I put the needle in a cordless drill and spin it on a decent speed and pull it against the nail file; once I'm happy the "marks" are gone from the needle tip I polish it. Works fine afterwards.
  7. Using a magnifier you should check the nozzle first. Also Paul makes a very good point. Is there any buildup on the needle cover during spraying? That could explain your issue.
  8. You can download it on their website. It has all their products I think. Hope the link works. http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/Mr.Hobbyleaflet.pdf
  9. I'm going to take a guess and say you're referring to the B501/502/503 or the B601/602/603. I have the Gunze catalogue in front of me and it says "It is water based and may be painted over both Mr. Color and Aqueous Hobby Color. It may also be painted on slide marks". The last sentence I'm guessing refers to decals. I haven't used those products so I can't state to their behaviour.
  10. I've put decals on top of acrylic varnish with no issues. I've sealed them with acrylic waterbased, acrylic solvent based and lacquer varnish with no issues. I think the important thing is to think about what comes after the sealing. If you'll be using washes you want a varnish that won't react with them so choose accordingly. Personal preference for varnish: Mr. Color GX100 or GX112 used in combination with Mr. Leveling Thinner. They're lacquer based, dry rock hard and can be used over most paints.
  11. Cracked nozzle or the needle not seating properly against the nozzle. Paint slips through (between them or through the nozzle crack), gathers on the nozzle cover and then it spits out. I've had similar issues with my Ultra, the needle got some wear on the tip (where it sits against the nozzle) and it wasn't "sealing" properly anymore. Polished it with some nail files and Tamiya Compound and it's fine. Since you've had yours for a while I imagine you have the old nozzle/needle. They replaced them (I believe) this year precisely because they were prone to cracks and wear.
  12. Revell enamel 314 Beige. Mr. Color 44 Tan or even 51 Flesh (though the second one has sort of a pink tint to it).
  13. It's a matter of preference. I used it for a long time and still use it sometimes on my Chinese airbrushes, I tried it on the Ultra but only in the beginning. Basically you cover up the front of the airbrush (typically with your finger, but on airbrushes like the Ultra you would need a "cap" because of the front end design) forcing air to take the path of least resistance (which means it will travel backwards into the nozzle towards the paint cup). This forces everything in it's path to "stir up" so if you added thinner and paint in the cup individually the air would force the two to mix up homogeneously eliminating the need to do an external mix. Drawbacks? It can cause a mess if the air pressure is too high as paint can splatter out of the cup. It can push paint beyond the needle seal into the trigger area. It can dislodge old paint from inside the nozzle and/or front section of the airbrush and get it into the mix. It can "blow off" the paint cup on the Ultra if it's not properly inserted (as it doesn't have a thread, it's just a push fit). Advantages? It makes the mixing process a lot faster (as long as you use compatible paint-thinner). It helps clean up (because of the "dislodging" mentioned above) minimizing the need to take the whole front end apart. It can actually help during painting when poor paint is used (it pushes the small paint "grains" backwards clearing up the nozzle momentarily), but then again, for optimum results you really should be either filtering poor paint or just getting a new bottle. I'm sure there's more, but these are the first to come to mind
  14. Corrugated cardboard. Cut a few sheets and glue them to each other in a vertical position and then put the whole thing in a box of your choosing. See Gunze's creation for inspiration.
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