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About bmwh548

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  1. Any lacquer thinner will do the job.
  2. Test the debonder on a scrap piece. I've had debonder that softened plastic pretty bad.
  3. bmwh548

    Total mess

    Whatever you end up using make sure you test it on some scrap sprue from the same kit. Some strippers can easily melt plastic.
  4. The plating is very thin (and it will get a good thrashing from the glass bottle) and like colin said the inside of the balls (the "through hole") is most likely damaged from the balls spinning around on the chain.
  5. I'd be careful with those as they are steel (which obviously rusts). I've tried steel nuts many moons ago and after a while I discovered they were very rusty and ruined the paints. So if you really want the cheap version maybe you can take them out of the bottle after use (or at least avoid using them with acrylics).
  6. This is a solvent based product (smells identical to Tamiya to me). That might be the issue.
  7. I've never dealt with turpentine or white spirit stains on windows, but I've managed to recover windows stained with lacquer thinner (stained, not rubbed). You might get lucky. Worst case you only recover some of the transparency, maybe a dip in Klear or something similar will give you a bit more transparency so the final result isn't that bad. As for the orange paint... If you're using an airbrush try finding an automotive paint supplier. The pigment in those is amazing, even with yellow/orange/white. Light coats with the airbrush (careful as it's lacquer and it's a hot product) and you'll get really nice coverage.
  8. Tamiya polishing compound or some automotive polish if you have some on hand. It should buff out with no issues. Toothpaste works too, I've used it in the past (the cheaper it is the more "bite" it has), but it doesn't stack up to Tamiya.
  9. Use a different base. I use GX2 from Mr. Color as it's perfectly dry in a matter of hours. After applying the metal paint leave it for a few days to completely cure.
  10. I'd stay away from their own thinner for Aqueous. I found that it delays drying times way too much for my taste. Go with Self Leveling if you want to stick to Gunze thinners.
  11. Well strictly to split hairs it's made for the C and GX series, but it will work on the H as well. IPA will work pretty good too if you don't have a dedicated thinner on hand.
  12. bmwh548

    Spray booths

    I'd rather not die from cancer, but hey, to each his own. A few pieces of plywood, a brushless fan, some LED bulbs and a few other stuff (wiring, screws, switches etc) will cost you what? 50 pounds? And the booth will last for many years.
  13. bmwh548

    Spray booths

    The cardboard box will only make it worse. All the fumes will be trapped inside and because of the airbrush's airflow they'll be pushed back towards your face.
  14. bmwh548

    Spray booths

    It won't be. Cheap, regular fans will barely do anything, especially if you put a filter in front of them. You'd need professional fans (like Sunon), and with the money those would cost you can probably buy a booth.
  15. Vallejo is an actual waterbased acrylic so it won't respond well to alcohol or lacquer thinner. Use their own thinner and add retarder in the mix. Also you might want to try mixing them in a cup or something to watch for grit in the mix or anything that might clog up the nozzle. You didn't say anything about the airbrush but I personally avoid using anything smaller than 0.3 when it comes to acrylic paint (or more specifically non-lacquer). As an extra precaution put a few drops of thinner in the airbrush and blow it through before adding paint. That will get rid of any airbrush cleaner residue that might react with the paint.
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