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bmwh548

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About bmwh548

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  1. Maybe you have dried paint in the air path or even in the air valve (with the latter being the least possible).
  2. Check the seals. They might not be seated properly or they might be pinched. Also check if the clearance between the nozzle and the nozzle cover is correct. Check the inside of the nozzle cover for dried out paint that might be obstructing the airflow.
  3. I would find an automotive paint supplier and get the required amounts. I'm saying this because you specified "large areas" and automotive paint is really cheap. I buy about 100 grams which turns into 200-250 grams after thinning (final cost is something like 6 euros). It dries towards flat, but you can tweak it with a few drops of gloss clear added to it so you get the desired satin finish. If you decide to stick to modelling paint MRP also makes good whites (but those are incredibly thin so there will be a bit of a learning curve when it comes to airbrushing). Mr. Color makes some really good ones too. I think both manufacturers have their own version of "off white" if you need it. Keep in mind that solvent based paints aren't exactly healthy so you should consider getting a spray booth if you don't have one already.
  4. Glad to have helped. Happy modelling!
  5. The thinner reactivates the previous coat and it'll cause the colors to mix. Airbrush the white or use something that's "water based". Alternatively you might be able to get away with brushing if you apply a coat of varnish over the black.
  6. Are you out of the thinner or the varnish? GX114 is flat, the equivalent for GX100 is GX112. If you are indeed interested in the flat version I use GX113 and it's really good. I didn't feel the need for something better, but then again, I'm only doing model cars.
  7. Alternatively you could buy the stuff that comes with a brush in the cap. Like Mr. Masking Sol R (that I've been successful in thinning with plain water).
  8. I haven't used it over Alclad's Aqua gloss, but I've tried it over other water based paints and didn't have any issues.
  9. Are you asking me if you can use Mr. Color GX113 over acrylics? The answer is yes. I've used it in thin coats over acrylics, enamels and lacquers with no issues. Just as with everything else make sure the previous layer is fully dry.
  10. I've been using Mr. Surfacer 1000 or 1200 ever since I got into airbrushing. Leveling thinner to dilute it, it makes it settle very smooth. Clean up is nice and easy with lacquer thinner, some people use IPA but I find that's a bit weak for it. Careful with the fumes, it's pretty bad stuff.
  11. To me it looks like a huge amount of flattening agent. Sometimes I get something very similar when I'm spraying a mix that's too thick or dries mid air. I spray neat Leveling thinner (lacquer thinner works too) and it bounces back. If you go for it practice on something first, it's very easy to flood the surface. As a replacement I highly recommend GX113 from Mr. Color. It's pretty thick in the bottle, I think you can get 3 times the amount after you thin it enough for airbrush use. It dries dead flat, no whiteness. Since you're using decanted rattle cans I'm guessing smell isn't an issue. It doesn't really work for hand brushing though (maybe it would with a few drops of their retarder, but haven't tried that).
  12. bmwh548

    decal help

    You have tons of silvering. Do you use any decal solutions? Is the surface wet when you put the decal on? Do you just put it and let it dry or do you rub it with a cotton bud?
  13. bmwh548

    Zero Paints woes

    Careful with the definition of wet when it comes to Zero. This is a very diluted paint, I would dare to say it's 80% thinner and 20% paint, and it's lacquer thinner. It will definitely make a mess of styrene if you go really wet. Try it out on some scrap parts first to get a sense of how much is too much. If indeed the primer is an issue just bin it and go with something else. Since you're using Zero stuff I'm guessing smell isn't an issue so I would suggest the Mr. Surfacer range.
  14. bmwh548

    Zero Paints woes

    Zero is basically automotive paint. It'll stick to plastic like crazy if it goes down right. All I can think of is contaminated surface (happened to me recently with a Tamiya kit, Mr. Surfacer was peeling from everything, solved the problem by using IPA to degrease the parts) or incorrect technique (the paint is nearly dry when it hits the surface so it doesn't bond to it).
  15. Some extra details might help. What are you trying to mask? How large is the surface area?
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