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About bmwh548

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  1. bmwh548

    Are all Airbrush needles the same?

    Make sure you check the needle diameter first (the two Chinese airbrushes I have are different in that department, didn't try it against the H&S). You don't want to spend your day cleaning paint out of the air valve area.
  2. bmwh548

    Mr Color Levelling thinner - pigment softness

    I've been using it for years with no issues. Are you sure you didn't have any contaminants in those areas?
  3. bmwh548

    Mr Metal Primer?

    Thanks @rayprit. I sent Gunze an email last night and they were kind enough to answer a few hours later. I'll post some stuff here in case there's other people interested. " this surface is sticky even after drying. This is to firmly bond the paint to be painted on it. So, it is in the correct state that there is sticky even over time." "The thinner to use is T106 is the best. The dilution ratio should be about 1: 1."
  4. bmwh548

    Mr Metal Primer?

    Bringing this topic back: has anyone used it over diecast parts? I airbrushed some about a week ago and it's still "tacky". I thinned it about 50-50 with Leveling Thinner. When I got the bottle about a month ago I remember brushing some over a diecast part to test it and it was bone dry after an hour. Anyone else experienced this issue?
  5. bmwh548

    Pre mixing clear and flat coats?

    Why premix it? If it's a 2k clear it'll go bad by the time you finish a bottle and if it's a 1k I don't see the point. I mix it in the airbrush cup (yes, I know, I should be stoned for doing it), a few drops of thinner and then a few drops of clear. It takes me like 30 seconds to get the mix right. @colin: I did something similar with the Mr. Color Clear Gloss. It was really thick in the bottle. I used about 1/4 of the bottle and toped it with Leveling Thinner to make it easier to shake. Took a few months to finish the bottle and I didn't notice any "color" changes.
  6. bmwh548

    Cellulose thinners for clean up

    I heard that the Tool Cleaner is really aggressive with rubber seals. Might want to do a test before putting it through an airbrush that has them.
  7. bmwh548

    Decal disaster...

    Read somewhere that Microscale does a special solution for old decals. Called Liquid Decal I think. Never used it myself.
  8. bmwh548

    IWATA Eclipse HP-BCS problem

    Is there enough clearance around the tip of the nozzle and the nozzle cap? If there's not enough air coming out it won't be able to "suction" the paint from the cup. Technically it shouldn't be an issue but I think there's two nozzle types for your Eclipse (one that has a second piece at the very tip of the nozzle and a "normal" one without it). Maybe the nozzle cap is different too, depending on the nozzle? Perhaps Paul can offer some info on that.
  9. bmwh548

    IWATA Eclipse HP-BCS problem

    It might sound like a dumb question: did you actually make sure that the needle is being pulled back with the trigger? Other than the nozzle being completely blocked with something (or maybe a manufacturing flaw) or the needle not being moved by the trigger I can't think of a reason why thinner wouldn't come out.
  10. Try using black primer under white and yellow. It gives a more... "solid" look. And shop around for other paint manufacturers. The ones used for wargame figures tend to have stronger pigments.
  11. bmwh548

    Mr. Color Super Metallic: which thinner?

    Never saw their catalog, but on their website the Metallic range is in the Mr. Color section which is solvent based. Like Jetblast said you should use the Mr. Color Thinner or Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (I always use the second one).
  12. bmwh548

    Iwata Eclipse HP-CS problem

    Did you check the air "holes" in the main body of the airbrush? Also check the holes in the nozzle cap. Sometimes paint can get in there and it stops the airflow. If that doesn't fix it remove the air valve and let it sit for a while. I know the Iwata O-rings should be safe from lacquer thinners, but if they're not and they got swollen they might block the airflow? Worth checking just in case.
  13. bmwh548

    Varnish / clear for Mr Hobby aqueous

    Pretty sure he's interested in Flat Clear since he mentioned the H020. Also he's brushing not airbrushing and that doesn't allow for very fine layers so that the waterbased paint isn't affected.
  14. bmwh548

    Varnish / clear for Mr Hobby aqueous

    Mr. Color shouldn't be brushed over Aqueous, the solvent is far too strong. Try the Aqueous varnishes, but you might be very disappointed. I remember the flat varnish drying almost white, never tried the gloss one. If you want a good, brushable varnish try the Revell Aqua stuff. I find them very forgiving and the finish is very nice. They can also be airbrushed with a drop of retarder.
  15. bmwh548

    Spray booth to avoid hair/carpet fibres?

    The model will be positioned right in the airflow's path. The fibers floating in air will be drawn in the booth by the fan and will stick to the model. Or if you're lucky you're going to watch a "clump" of fibers slowly moving from your shirt towards the model you're airbrushing and somehow make it's way to the fan (I forgot to clean myself after playing with the Samoyed dog, never making that mistake again). But in all seriousness get a booth, it vents out the smells, there's no more paint residue on the furniture...