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bmwh548

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About bmwh548

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  1. You can overcoat them, mix them, you can do whatever you want, they'll be fine. The only thing to keep in mind is if you're using gloss paints you should allow for a reasonable drying time before overcoating with something else. And since you didn't complain about the smell of Mr. Color paints maybe pick up some Mr. Leveling thinner. It's amazing stuff and it works with both Tamiya and Mr. Color (and a lot of other stuff).
  2. The 500 one is really thick. Think of it as disolved putty. If I dip a brush in it and jut pick it up it pretty much stays on the brush. I only used it for filling tiny imperfections so that's perfect for me. The 1000 one is a bit more fluid, just a bit thicker than a jar of Mr. Color paint. I just top it up with Leveling thinner until it reaches the "neck" of the bottle, and I keep doing it as I use it up until I get to a watery like consistency. From one jar of "1000" I probably get 3 jars "airbrush ready". I wouldn't bother with the replenishing agent, just use Leveling thinner. I can't be bothered with the crust on these, I've had some fall back in the bottle several times but it was nowhere to be found days later (being a lacquer it probably just disolves it). And I'm not too worried when it happens at the very beginning of a priming session because they're typically too large to get sucked into the pipette.
  3. The slight orange peel you have there was probably responsible for a lot of those air bubbles. I try to get my paint as smooth as possible before putting decals on, that minimizes risks.
  4. Try some Revell Aqua yellow (yes, the paint we all hate). I was very surprised recently at how good the pigment is in that. As for airbrushing it shouldn't really be any harder than white. Just light, misty coats and build it up. It'll take a few of them, but you should get a uniform finish. Regarding the shade of the yellow maybe you should try some test spoons. Prime a few of them in different basecoats (black, white, pink anything you feel might help) and then spray some yellow on and see which one you like best. I was actually told that a black basecoat can help with "realism" when using bright colors (such as white, red...) but we all look at models with our own eyes, so test it yourself before committing it to a model.
  5. I'm not sure you can fix it with the decal in place. Maybe soak the area in water so that the decal comes loose? If you can get the decal off grab some polishing compound, make sure the surface is very smooth. After polishing wash it with some soapy water so there's no residue from the compound. put a few drops of water on the body so that the decal can slide around easy for positioning. Not sure which Micro solution does what, but make sure not to apply the softening one until you're happy with the position of the decal, otherwise you might damage it. Another way to go would be to cut the film as close as you can to each "image" on the decal and position them individually. It's very fiddly but you'll have less issues with silvering.
  6. Well that would most likely explain it. The larger nozzle was a lot more forgiving with the mix. TBH unless you're highly restricted by house rules in regards to paint smells I think you should entirely switch to solvent based paints. Mr. Color and Leveling thinners? Forget about it....you'll be painting for hours without experiencing issues. MRP lacquers? Same thing (just make slight adjustments to the technique since those have a watery consistence and can easily flood surfaces and etch hard into plastic). If you really need to stick to lovely smelling paint stick to Tamiya and Gunze's acrylics. But if I was you I'd take the money you're considering investing into a new airbrush and make/get a spray booth so you can switch to lacquers.
  7. You can have the best airbrush on the planet, if the paint mix is wrong then the airbrush might as well be a Chinese 5 euro a piece.
  8. I have the 0.2 and 0.4 on the Ultra. I use the 0.4 for the stuff that usually give me headaches (Aqua, Green Stuff's chameleon paints, some metalics) and if it's small areas and the 0.2 for the paints that agree with it. On the Chinese I had the 0.2 but found that the 0.3 was better (I converted the Chinese one to airbrush strictly primer) for quick jobs.
  9. Careful with brake fluid on styrene, I've had a Hasegawa kit that became very brittle after a bath in DOT3. You need to give us a bit more info, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say that maybe you're hydrating the putty when putting primer on. I've had it happen to me when using 1K putties, which is why I tend to stick to either Superglue or 2K putty. Another explanation might be in the sanding technique, perhaps you're using a very soft sponge type sanding stick and that can actually remove the putty from the seam (which isn't that hard to do with "acrylic putty". Grab a jar of Mr. Surfacer 500, dab some on the seam and let it harden properly over night. I think it will be enough to properly fill the hole.
  10. Your experience might be a result of the "not really accurate" no-name nozzles. When I picked up my Ultra I was very much surprised to the difference between a no-name 0.2 nozzle and the 0.2 nozzle in the German airbrush. It was visible to the naked eye, which might explain why certain paints flow better through the Chinese one. TBH I save the 0.2 nozzle for lacquers, the 0.4 one works great with everything else. If you want something in between perhaps pick an airbrush with a 0.3 nozzle.
  11. If you didn't remove the nozzle and tried putting a reamer through it the only explanation would be the needle being pushed forward VERY aggressively. No saying you did that in full knowledge. Maybe when you put the needle in you pushed it really hard against the nozzle and locked it in place and later during airbrushing or even just blowing thinners you did that quick movement of the trigger (where you pull back all the way on the trigger and release it rather suddenly) trying to clean up the tip. Because the needle was already sitting very "forward" when you added the spring into the equation the nozzle couldn't take it anymore. It could also be a nozzle that perhaps wasn't very well made, even the best manufacturers can get it wrong.
  12. I have one of them, just with a different label on it. Really nice, however keep in mind the alloy is quite soft and you can bend the tip easily if you apply too much pressure. If you don't already have one, I would also recommend a reverse tweezer (or whatever those are called) so it holds the part on it's own, without having to constantly apply pressure.
  13. Extra Thin evaporates really fast so you might need to dab a bit more glue than you normally would using other stuff. I use Mr. Cement S which is basically the same glue, just a lot cheaper and I've never had parts come apart. The change in transparency is most likely from residue on the brush. When you dab glue on the plastic you actually get a bit of styrene on the brush and you put it in the jar and in time that builds up and changes the adhesive from perfectly translucent to grey or whatever the color of the styrene. Mine is almost black now because I've used it for putting back together some black plastic cases. Actually useful cause I can see better where the glue goes on grey styrene (which is probably why Gunze makes a black Cement version).
  14. Take apart the air valve clean it and let it sit for an hour or two. If you use lacquer thinner to clean it the rubber seals will ever so slightly swell up making the valve movement difficult. If you have some Iwata Lube or something similar use it on the moving parts, it does wonders (just a smidge, don't put too much or it will actually have the opposite effect). Soak the nozzles in the thinner appropriate for your paints (i.e. lacquer if you use lacquer paints). I use a dental brush to clean up the inside of the nozzles, don't force anything through it, gentle touch here. If everything is spotless and you still have the paint flow issue maybe you should add a drop more thinner in the mix. The consistency can change a lot depending on temperature in particular, which is why I never bother measuring my mixes, I just eye-it.
  15. Gunze makes a masking fluid that can be trimmed with a scalpel after drying if you want perfect shapes. It's the Masking Sol R. I only get the Uhu White Tac. It stays exactly where I put it (for no matter how long), no oily residues.
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