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bmwh548

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About bmwh548

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  1. bmwh548

    Thinking of changing paint, need some advice please.

    I'm really happy with Gunze's lacquer stuff. Very nice finish, pretty tough, very quick drying times.
  2. bmwh548

    Does *everything* needs to be primed?

    Surfacer 1200 always for me. Helps a lot with showing faults and it provides a good surface for paint to stick to.
  3. bmwh548

    What primer for under Enamel paints?

    I always use the Surfacer 1200 as primer. So far I've never had any issues with enamels and even acrylic lacquers. I always loved it because it tends to fill small sanding mistakes.
  4. bmwh548

    Green Stuff World chameleon paints

    Anyone used their stuff? I have a BMW i8 in work and I'd love to try some, but I'm curious if - the stuff really does what is advertised - you can apply varnish/clear over it without losing the effect - it works through the airbrush without making you want to rip every single hair on your head I've seen some of the manufacturer videos, the paints look like the best thing since Gunze's self leveling thinner, but I'm not the type that just buys marketing videos.
  5. bmwh548

    Aqua Gloss

    If you have some "extra" decals on the sheet you could try doing a test on a piece of styrene... Just do the same steps you have so far to make sure all the undercoats are the same as on the model.
  6. bmwh548

    Audi A4 Dark Blue required

    Now I'm getting confused cause the paints are almost identical and they were both used in that period. Guess I might have to bite the bullet and just go with one of them and hope it's the right one.
  7. bmwh548

    Audi A4 Dark Blue required

    Thank you very much for that link! It will come in handy in future builds. Sadly they don't list the A4 model older than 2004. But again, thank you very much for it, it will be put to good use! Edit: Actually I found it. Searched by year and they gave me Europa Blue which seems to be the colour I was looking for. Thank you again!
  8. bmwh548

    Audi A4 Dark Blue required

    Much appreciated guys! I tried looking around for the paint code but I found various names for it and since I don't know what to order I thought I could just use something that I already have/get very easily. The Audi dealership is kinda out of reach but I'll try giving them a call, maybe (doubt it) they're willing to tell me the colour code. The model is meant as a surprise gift for a friend who had one years ago and can't exactly ask if he remembers the paint code
  9. bmwh548

    Audi A4 Dark Blue required

    Hey guys, looking for a paint similar in color to the dark blue this generation had. Closest I found is Humbrol Gloss 15. Can anyone suggest something better? Doesn't have to be gloss paint since I'll be spraying some gloss clear in the end. Thank you!
  10. bmwh548

    Any point in buying 0,2 airbrush?

    When I got the H&S Ultra I did a side by side comparison with the cheapo BD-180 (Iwata design copy). The cheap stuff is not even in the same league despite the fact they both had 0.2 nozzle/needle in them and using the same paint.
  11. bmwh548

    Iwata Freestyle Air Battery Powered Compressor

    Outdoor painting is a pain in the backside. Insects, dust, polen...they tend to get caught in the paint and you waste time fixing issues after.
  12. bmwh548

    Iwata Freestyle Air Battery Powered Compressor

    Portable stuff have their disadvantages. They're kinda loud, the motor heats up like crazy, the air pressure is limited (but should be in the modeling range) and if your painting session goes on you might get unlucky and see the compressor shutdown itself because of the thermal protection. Nothing like having paint in the airbrush and not being able to clean it because the compressor doesn't work. I will always advocate for the tank compressors. Much friendlier to the budget in the long term and a better experience.
  13. bmwh548

    Correcting blemishes

    You can go down the acrylic route... Even the ones like Tamiya have a very faint smell (at least to my nose). On the other hand I'm used to painting with lacquers so my opinion might not be the best You can also get/build a spray booth (it changes everything in every way). That way the smell is gone 5 minutes after you're done cleaning your airbrush.
  14. bmwh548

    Correcting blemishes

    Try to mask on panel lines (like if you need to repaint a door...just mask around it on the "shut lines"). That way it's easier. You can also mask before sanding (that way you minimize the risks of rubbing panels that don't need corrections). Also like Steve Noble was saying: try to avoid sanding metallic paints. The pigment rubs off from on top of the flakes and the sanded area gets a completely different hue. If you need to sand apply another light coat on top before applying the clear coat. That's where an airbrush comes in; the coats are much lighter so you can make several passes on an area to cover it and you don't lose details, rattle cans aren't that forgiving (used them for many years, don't miss them at all).
  15. bmwh548

    Any point in buying 0,2 airbrush?

    Advantages and disadvantages. The smaller nozzle allows for better control, minimizing flooding risks, allowing for a more...."focused" pattern. With enough practice you could freehand camo I guess (I only tried it once so not enough experience here). Disadvantage? It clogs up fast if the paint isn't thinned just right. Also clogs like a bugger with metallic paints that have larger flakes. I'm using a chinese BD-180 and an H&S Ultra, both 0.2mm nozzles. Works great for most scenarios. I switch to the 0.4mm or 0.5mm nozzles when I do large areas.
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