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About bmwh548

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  1. Bought a set of the knock-offs. Despite the label there's only 4-5 dimensions in the set and not a single one had a sharpened tip. Bought two sets similar to the ones Tony C recommended and they're fairly good. I particularly like that I don't have to keep changing the "head" on my pin vise.
  2. I actually don't like Mr. Metal Color for brush painting, they work great in the airbrush though. @Steve Noble: did you try Super-hobby.com? I remember they used to stock Tamiya's enamels.
  3. I have it and I've used it several times. It works well with thin decals, but the it won't really touch the thicker ones. I use the Ammo stuff on those, it's a lot more potent. Personal method: place the decal onto the model, wipe off excess water, give it a minute (or more) so that the adhesive starts sticking to the surface and then gently dab the solution onto the decal. I sometimes use a soft brush to help the decal adjust to the shapes, but do that at your own risk! Thin decals can tear easily.
  4. Been using the Trumpeter one. Pretty good, I like that it can go right up against the edges.
  5. There are no universal setting solutions. Some decals are thick and need more powerful substances to help them, other don't. A gloss varnish (or paint) will help a lot, but you shouldn't automatically assume that the surface is now smooth. You could still have small imperfections and those will be one of the causes.
  6. I've used Aqueous with 99% IPA and didn't feel the need for a retarder. It helps it dry much faster, but not fast enough that it would cause tip dry.
  7. I've had issues twice with Aqueous dry to touch. I masked, painted the second color and when I unmasked the base color was a mess. Learned my lesson the hard way :))
  8. You don't need retarder on those, especially if you use Leveling Thinner. Careful as the Aqueous range can sometimes take ages to dry.
  9. What are you using in combination with the compounds? I've found that a cloth that is slightly rough helps the Coarse compound get rid of orange peel much faster, but on the Fine compound you need a really soft one. Also, if you're already getting a uniform surface with relatively good shine the paste won't improve it much.
  10. Never used the finish one, as far as I understand it's more of a wax than a polishing compound. I use the coarse and fine on all of my auto builds, the resulting shine is more than enough for my eyes.
  11. I tend to use the UV ones more, but I'm not against the normal ones. I think it's the same stuff, just with an extra in the UV resist bottles like Ray said.
  12. Not a fan of Tamiya's clear flat. I tend to stick to Mr. Color for all clears. The GX range is really good, the flat dries dead flat, without that noticeable white tint that some other products have. I've always used Leveling thinner for them, but Rapid thinner is technically more suited for really flat finishes.
  13. bmwh548


    I've bought an H&S Ultra 2in1 a few years ago, it was the best purchase for me. PTFE seals mean you can use lacquer paints and thinners, the nozzles are big so you can clean them up without the fear of losing them... I highly recommend getting the CR type needle cap (the prong type), it makes life easier and the quick release with the MAC valve built in. Not sure how much it would set you back for the whole thing, probably 100 pounds? PS: I paint model cars almost exclusively from 1:43 to 1:18. 99% of the time I use the 0.4 needle-nozzle combo.
  14. On the newer cars there's a lot of aerodynamic plates underneath (especially on supercars, race cars) so you won't get to see any of the beautiful suspension, steering, transmission etc. It's a shame, but I guess the engineers have a set price tag for the model so they're forced to choose: good details on what you see and price cutting on the invisible stuff or poor details all around but more stuff in the bags. Also Revell has an idiotic way of doing things sometimes: I have the i8 kit and had a look at the parts. They bothered to put engines, transmission and you won't see any of it, and the
  15. bmwh548


    I'm not saying I don't believe you...it's just that it contradicts physics. If you look at an airbrush that has a lid for the paint cup you'll notice a small hole in that lid. That hole is there precisely to let in air that replaces the paint being "pulled out" of the airbrush by the airflow going on at the front of the airbrush. If that hole is covered (or if you seal the paint cup for some reason) air can't go inside the paint cup so paint can't exit the airbrush. Do you have bubbles in the paint cup? Is it behaving like this with paint or is it doing the same thing with water? Is it on
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