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bmwh548

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  1. They're not, they turn to snot. In theory if you keep adding thinner, at some point you'll get something that is usable, but at that point why bother? If you're using a lacquer thinner, why not just switch to lacquer paints?
  2. You can thin some of them with water, not sure about the Ammo product though. Try it in a cup and see if it works.
  3. bmwh548

    AK Real Colours

    I have a few of them, nice paints. However, are you sure you mean the RC range? Because that's lacquer, not "acrylic" in the way Tamiya and Mr. Hobby are. They're closer to Tamiya LP and Mr. Color. I would rank them just under Mr. Color for pigment strength and usability, they're really thick so a bottle will last you ages (I use Leveling thinner for them).
  4. I've used Model Master Sealer (which is now sadly discontinued) and GX112 with no issues. Just make sure the paint is dry, not just touch dry.
  5. By chance, does anyone have both versions of this kit? They made some modifications last year (decals and wheels) and I'm curious if the new wheels are undersized like the originals were. Or if anyone has the new version and is kind enough to measure the wheels I could compare them to the originals. Thank you!
  6. If the price isn't an issue get the Ultra, even if it is just a backup. The one BIG flaw with the Ultra (for me) is that the cup isn't threaded. It's just a push-on and when you start getting wear in the area it becomes slightly loose and paint starts to seep through. Sure, you can help it with a bit of PTFE tape, but it's still annoying.
  7. bmwh548

    Help

    I would clean it, primer it, polish the primer (or lightly wet sand with 2-3000 grit), paint it and see what happens. Metallic finishes are demanding, the base needs to be close to perfect. There's nothing wrong with scuffing the body before primer, I do it all the time because it helps the primer bond to it and also it helps you see sink marks.
  8. bmwh548

    Help

    To me it kinda looks like there's almost dry paint hitting the model, but it could also be a reaction between paint and primer. I've had that happen in the past with rattle cans that weren't compatible with each other.
  9. The part arrived today and I tried it on. As you can see it's only slightly bigger in length, but the cavity goes deeper on the CR one. It fits the Ultra just fine and the needle chuck spring is strong enough to make the needle slide easily through the 3 seals. It's a very cheap upgrade, but in the long term pretty useful IMHO.
  10. All modern airbrushes have the PTFE seal for the needle, but that's behind the paint cup so paint doesn't reach the trigger assembly. Bubbles in the paint cup mean an air leak between the nozzle and the airbrush body or blocked air passages at the front which would cause air to choose the path of minimal resistance (traveling backwards to the cup). If you were to have a leak between the nozzle cap and the airbrush body you would still have a somewhat functioning airbrush (you'd just have less air coming out through the front causing a "bad" behaviour. Examine the nozzle for some rings/grooves on it's base. Maybe it's become worn where it sits against the airbrush's body and it can't do an air tight seal. If you happen to have a new nozzle put them side by side and compare the tips. Perhaps it's flared up too much, causing an obstruction against the nozzle cap. It shouldn't happen with the Eclipse because of the nozzle design, but you can never know.
  11. The Eclipse doesn't have a nozzle seal. My guess is - there's something coming between the nozzle and the airbrush body and it can't make it's "seal" - the nozzle just isn't seated properly and it's obstructing (even partially) the airflow that would normally go between it and the nozzle cap I would double check the air holes in the nozzle cap and airbrush body (maybe some dried paint got jammed in there) and check the airbrush body itself for any possible damage in the area where the nozzle sits.
  12. If ventilation isn't an issue give Mr. Surfacer a go. I'm 99% certain you'll never want to try other manufacturers. It really bites into plastic, it's pretty much dry before you finish cleaning your airbrush, you can sand it without it peeling off and you can overcoat it with virtually anything.
  13. Isn't Vallejo's primer latex based or something like that? I remember the general consensus was that you can't sand it because it just peels off. I use Mr. Surfacer 1000/1200, but it's toxic stuff so really good ventilation is a must.
  14. Technically nothing is supposed to travel backwards, that includes the needle. Even if the seal is in perfect condition and adjusted properly you'll still drag paint backwards because the tip of the needle is smaller than the hole in the seal.
  15. Not really sure what you call a pressure switch, but the plunger is probably the safety valve that purges the tank if pressure exceeds a certain pressure. The valve is supposed to be closed by default until the pressure exceeds 8bar (judging by the big red line on the pressure gauge). If it's stuck to open it's probably defective and needs replacing. What I would do is remove the entire thing and keep just the secondary tank. Remove the part with the pressure adjustment/pressure gauge/filter from your current setup. Connect the secondary tank to the compressor and add the part to the second tank (on the output, obviously). That way you'll keep the pressure adjustment and more importantly you'll have the factory settings for the actual compressor (starting pressure and stopping pressure). However: you need to keep in mind that purging massive amounts of air (like an air gun does compared to an airbrush) causes massive condensation in the system. These compressors aren't designed for that and the filter will most likely be unable to cope. Also: make sure the secondary tank has a valve underneath so you can drain it often (preferably after each use).
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