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Everything posted by Jetblast

  1. Might be worth checking that air is flowing freely through the hoses you have & that there is no kinking or restriction in them
  2. The guts are accessed from the top - remove the big nut & there should be flats on the threaded section, remove the threaded section to get the gubbins out. The guts might spring out when the threaded section is released, so keep some pressure on it when it runs of the threads. Clean the seals, spring & bore in hot soapy water, dry, lubricate with white grease & reassemble. Check that the seal/s are intact & take care when removing the threaded section as the plastic may have become brittle.
  3. Could it be supported in position by the top of part 110 / section 51.
  4. Jetblast

    H&S nozzle

    All that changed on the nozzles were the markings indicating the size (about the same time / slightly after the V2 needles were introduced), other than that there has been no change to the nozzles or the part numbers.
  5. 1) The rust that's in the drained condensate is for the large part "in" the condensate, which doesn't get drawn from the tank. Moisture that passes through the compressor to the regulator hasn't been condensed in the tank & has come straight from the compressor head where there is little if any opportunity for rust to be created (everything but the tank is alloy or coated), so very little if any rust would get as far as the filter. 2) Drain the tank frequently, don't store it for any significant time without draining it & leave the drain screw removed during storage. Internal painting or plastic coating of tanks isn't common on airbrush compressors & can lead to other issues - when the coating starts to fail, moisture is retained under the failed coating leaving an area that promotes rust, a "hot spot" for want's of a better word.
  6. What you have is 1/4" BSP - 13mm across the male threads. BSP designations don't relate directly to the thread size rather confusingly.......
  7. It's pretty hard to eliminate all dust / fibres & such like - it even going to be coming from you clothing as you work. Try misting the room down with a misting bottle (plant mister, old, empty trigger bottle) immediately prior to spraying so any dust is drawn down & use a Tupperware box or old ice cream carton to cover your work as soon as you have finished spraying until it is surface dry.
  8. Between the motor / pump & tank there is a non return valve - the unloader valve is connected between the pump & non return valve, so is only exhausts air from the pump compression chamber & a few inches of plumbing. The unloder is effectiveley isolated from the receiver & doesn't have a clue what going on pressure wise, it simply closes when the compressor pump is running & opens when it isn't.
  9. Oil free airbrush compressors, including the AS-186 are not fitted with these - more to do with the task in hand than price or quality; The operation of the unloader valve requires a pressure control unit (the "control box" with the on/off switch) that's capable of opening the unloader valve at motor shut-off, the in-line pressure switches typically fitted to automatic oil free compressors are not capable of this. A pressure control unit adds weight, size, complexity & price to the compressor & on a run of the mill oil free model where quiet operation isn't the specific goal its more effective to specify the motor to suit the load. To rant on a bit further..... Another reason for none of these bits being required on the typical oil-free airbrush compressor is the valve arrangement - oil free compressors lend themselves to leaking easily while the motor isn't running (from the cylinder, not the receiver), easing the motor load at start-up, which is not so much the case with oil lubricated. The average automatic oil-free model charges to somewhere between 40>60psi, oil lubricated typically charge to around 90psi or more, which would be another obstacle in starting if there wasn't an unloader valve.
  10. The noise is the "unloader valve" operating & happens at the end of each motor run cycle. The valve unloads pressure in the pump to reduce starting load on the next motor run cycle, these are typically fitted to DIY workshop & commercial compressors for the same reason. Without the unloader valve being present a more powerful & consequently louder pump would be required - catch 22. The valve expels air for somewhere in the region of 1 second as it's only releasing pressure from a relatively small volume & the noise is about as loud or slightly quieter than the normal running of an oil-free compressor in the 25 L/Min class (such as the AS-186).
  11. V1 & V2 needles are fully interchangeable, V2 needles can be identified by the size indicator at the rear end of the needle which is quite distinctive;
  12. Somewhere between 15>20psi would be about correct for a compressor with a 16 L/Min air flow rating paired with an Eclipse. The compressor can only achieve 50psi in a static / closed scenario & as soon as air starts flowing the maximum operating pressure will drop to whatever the compressor is capable of sustaining in an open "dynamic" situation. The Eclipse also has a healthy appetite for air, which won't help the situation. Best way to explain - connect a syringe needle which restricts airflow & you would probably get around 45psi, but connect a drainpipe which doesn't restrict airflow & you may be lucky to see a couple of psi.
  13. If you do go for syringes, the BD / Plastipak ones with the purple plunger are not so clever & seem to start binding at the 1st sniff of even acrylic thinners. if you can find them the Baxa Exata-Med oral syringes are far superior - look for a white plunger & blue graduation markings.
  14. Disposable syringes or pipettes. I typically use 1, 3 or 5ml disposable syringes - drawing the paint out of it's container & dropping it into the likes of an old Tamiya paint jar, then doing the same with the thinner. A few pumps on the syringe plunger takes care of mixing & then it's just poured into the airbrush paint cup. Measuring with the 1ml syringe is easiest - X syringes full of paint & Y of thinners. Syringes don't work so well with hot paint though as the plunger seals swell & the plunger binds in the barrel.....
  15. Bubbles in the cup are a sure sign of a split / chipped / damaged nozzle tip or a scored / worn nozzle seal. Unless the needle is damaged (read bent at the tip) there is no need to change it at all. The needle is stainless steel & far harder than the nozzle, so needles don't really suffer significantly from wear, just impact damage.
  16. Mr Color Super metallic is based on the Mr Color range & should be thinned with Mr Color Thinner or Mr Color Levelling Thinner.
  17. Part 27 is stacked on top of the air valve plunger & to get it out of the way, remove the air valve assembly (33) & just push the cam (29) rearwards. The cam has a ramp on it that will push 27 downwards & out of the way & allow cam removal.
  18. I think (don't know if that's a good idea...) that it's "Brilliant Blue" / LY5K.
  19. The Sparmax AC-501X may be worth considering - within budget, reasonably quiet, automatic & with a proper regulator rather than a bleed valve. Typically oil free compressor noise output is directly related to power / airflow, with around 50dbA being normal for a 1/8HP unit with 15 L/Min output or therabouts - quiet enough to have a conversation while running (the compressor that is!) without having to raise your voice. The "exhaust" noise associated with Sil-Air compressor (15 & 30 series only) comes from the unloader valve which is operated at the end of each run cycle, it's purpose is to reduce pressure on the motor / pump side so that the motor has negligible start up load to contend with. Easing the load at start up allows a less powerful & consequently quieter motor to be used & it's this which allows the Sil-Air 15 series models to run a 30dbA. Removing the unloader would require an increase in motor power / noise & that's you back up to 40dbA like the Sil-Air 50 series or Bambi's.
  20. Mr Hobby Aqueous H328 FS15050 Blue or Tamiya X-3 Royal Blue appear pretty similar.
  21. A few images I've managed to dig out if they help; Covers removed (moisture & gunk all normal); NRV; Healthy liner / piston / flapper; Healthy piston seal (worn seal material on seal edge);
  22. An undercover Sparmax AC-500 I believe. If there is a audible leak from one of the cylinders when the compressor isn't running, it will be the non return valve for that cylinder. The NRV's aren't prone to failure, but can become gummed up with crud (shed seal material &/or mould) which prevents them from closing fully, these are pretty easy to access, strip & clean. Remove the 8 Allen screws holding the finned cylinder covers on, lift the covers off together & you will now be looking at the black or possibly silver cylinder plates with the NRV's mounted in the centres of the plates. Remove the cylinder plates & wash them in hot soapy water, possibly removing the NRV's for more thorough cleaning if they are obviously caked in crud. While you have the cylinder plates off, check the condition of the piston crown flapper valves & the piston seals - flapper valves can work loose, moving into the wrong position & can snap / break, piston seals degrade with time & will eventually wear our, usually signified by obvious scoring on the liner & quite a bit of noise while running. If you have a piston (bonded PTFE seal) or liner issue, the parts will be available (may take a bit of hunting right enough), but you will be looking at around £30/£35 for a single set & needless to say if one set happens to be toast, the other will not be far away, so £60/£70...
  23. Yes - BSP-P fittings will not seal on the thread alone & require either PTFE tape or liquid sealant.
  24. Yes, that's the correct part & no that isn't the best price.
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