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  1. This technique is also mentioned and it is the one that I was familiar with. I don't have an immediate need for doing this,though. Was really just interested if anyone had used it as I had not come across it being used. Thanks for the reference to the book. It looks interesting. I had not come across it before. Cheers David
  2. I was looking through the copy of How to Go Plastic Modelling, Chris Ellis, 1968, which I have had since a bairn. All the basics are there but techniques have progressed considerably since them. However, one thing caught my eye and that was making canopies using clear nail varnish, a technique favoured by the author. Having carved your canopy shape from balsa and sanded smooth, smear it with margarine or lard(!) rubbing it well in (no comment). Paint over a layer of nail varnish, let set and then repeat at least 15 times. When finished remove and trim. He says the technique can also be used for radomes, fairings, etc and has used, for example, a drop tank that matched the required canopy shape, as a mould (not forgetting the marge or lard). It's not something I have actually come across in practice and wondered if anyone has tried or uses it. Does it work? Cheers David
  3. Hi Justin, Many thanks for your input. I have a photo of MB 950 which shows the stars and bars with nothing on top but it is not clear whether there are still stencils on either side. I was coming to the same conclusion as you with this, though. PL914 was a late addition as a replacement and I suspect it would have been fairly 'factory fresh'.(?). Thanks again David
  4. Hi Danny, Thanks for the reasoning behind the use of the different strengths. It has helped to explain their use better. Cheers David
  5. Hi there, Working on Spitfire PR XI PL914 in US service operating out of Mount Farm. Can anyone supply details on stencils? I have photos which show the main upper wing details but what about the underwing? Particularly the 'trestle' stencils. There is a stars and bars insignia on the bottom starboard wing. This would cover these stencils. So, Was the insignia applied over the stencil leaving bits of it? Stencil obliterated completely? What about the port wing trestle stencils? Perhaps there is information on the fighters that could be extrapolated? Any help would be appreciated. Cheers David
  6. Thanks to all who have replied. Have got useful information. Thanks for this Steve. I have never used Klear. It just seems funny to be using floor polish on models. But I shall investigate further. Cheers David
  7. Hi, I have been applying some US stars and bars decals made by Techmod to my PR XI . Using Ultimate Decal Setting Solution, Normal strength. It is not having much effect in getting the decals to conform to panel lines. I can get the stronger versions but this is going to to several days. Would it still be ok to use the stronger solution on the decals after this time and still work? Or just remove and start again when new solutions arrive? Or suggest an alternative solution? There seems to be a mass of them out there! And terminology: Setting, softening, fixer..... Any help would appreciated. Cheers David
  8. Hi Richard Many thanks for the comments. Would it be possible to see the photos showing the seat armour? I have not seen any good photos of PR IV cockpit areas. I take it from your moniker and your reply that you are seriously into RAF PR subjects. It was the story of AA810 recovery that got me back into aircraft modelling and generated a general interest in the subject. Thanks again, David
  9. Phenomenal work on models and photo presentations. Amazing!
  10. Hi Andy, I asked the question about the headrests on the PR IV and it was attached to frame 11 behind the seat with poppet rivets. No actual armour plate. Cheers David
  11. Hi, thanks for this. I have subsequently been in contact with the AA810 PR IV restoration project and they say there was no armour on the PR IV. The PR XI I take it did retain the seat armour? Cheers
  12. Hi there, I was led to believe that these two aircraft did not have any armour. However, on looking at this review of the PR XI I see from the sprue photos what appears to be armour plating for behind the seat. Can anyone confirm whether these aircraft did or did not have the seat armour? Many thanks David
  13. @dnl42 Looks good in the end though!
  14. Many thanks to all who have responded. Much appreciated. Thanks for tip, I have a yellow spinner to do and will try it out. Again, thanks for this selection of uses. I had not quite appreciated the extent of this. Thanks for the information. Indeed, every day is a school day. This was new to me too and thanks for the link that shows it in action. From the information supplied I will be approaching things a bit differently in future and I can see some experimentation coming on. I am not a big fan of pre shading effects, going for post effects, but I can see there may be circumstances where it would be effective. Thanks again to you all. cheers David
  15. Hi, Recently back to aircraft modelling and discovering new products and techniques. Main interests are WW2 (and sci fi). Traditionally have used a grey primer and have discovered Stynylrez which I really like. On getting a new bottle recently I discovered there are 18 different colours. Grey, white, black, blue, greens, browns , metallics and even pink. I have come across usages for some of the colours in the forum. White. Red, yellow, white Black. Black basing technique, metallics. However, what about the rest? Are there any advantages of using a colour similar to the final colour? E.g. blue primer for US Navy schemes or RAF Pru Blue or Olive green for an Olive Drab scheme. If you put enough paint on it is likely to cover up the primer colour whatever it is(?). Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated. I am constantly trying to expand my knowledge! Cheers David
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