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About LotusArenco

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    3.3 miles from RAF Northolt

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  1. Good choice. I’ve recently given up drinking Humbrol Metalcote myself, but always prefered a double Alclad chrome. Mart
  2. Wonderful link! Nice one mate. Mart
  3. They better be careful, or Games Workshop will nick the names and slap a © or ™ on them! In the old days GW had ‘Titillating pink’, and ‘Vomit Brown’. More modern GW colours include ‘Skavenblight Dinge’ and ‘Incubi Darkness’. I wonder if anyone has matched ‘Snowbonk’ or ‘Sindis Poop’ to RAL or Federal Standard? Mart
  4. Mart
  5. I do something similar myself. As has been said, very few paint ‘hobby’ paint manufacturers produce accurate colour charts. Winsor and Newton used actual painted colour ‘chips’ in some of their more fancy charts (still do?), and I’ve got an old Humbrol colour binder which I’m sure they used actual paint samples on. After stirring the paint, I usually dab a bit of colour onto the lid to give me a more accurate representation of what’s in the pot. Or make up my own colour charts. It is a pain in the bum, but a useful exercise in the long run. It is! Mart
  6. Looks at various Gundam HG IBO kits dotted about the workroom…. Looks at TimMather’s pictures…. Begins sobbing… Goes to bathroom and picks up towel.. . . Throws in towel. Mart
  7. Pretty much. I’ve used it straight out of the bottle for brush painting with no problem. Mind you, that was only for small areas in cockpits and whatnot. I usually thin acrylics down with water/thinner before brush painting to avoid brush marks. So it’s kind of a win-win using ModelAir as far as I’m concerned. Mart
  8. Giving the plastic a bit of a 'key' with a sanding sponge seemed to solve my very similar problem. Mart
  9. RIP mate. Mart
  10. For years I’ve always used the backing off a roll of double sided 2" carpet tape. The left over ‘non-stick’ bit you usually throw away. As I seemed to have misplaced the carpet tape, I’ve started using a strip of bog standard Tamiya type (Frog tape) tape stuck down onto something flat. By chance I’m in the middle of doing some filling using superglue this very moment, here’s a bit of tape that I applied superglue to over an hour ago and it’s still useable. It’s only just started to dry up and stick, but as a temporary ‘non-stick’ surface for gluing PE on it works just fine. Mart
  11. I’ve got one of those 1/16 Heng Long RC tanks knocking around, with the fancy smoke and sound and whatnot. IIRC the smoke generator for it is a bit like an E-cigarette. Heated coil/wick/glycerine based liquid of some sort. To blow the smoke out it uses a small motor connected to a reciprocating syringe type piston/valve system that chugs back and forth. It’s a noisy begger, and not too efficient. I’ve thought about using some small PC fans myself to run it, giving a constant smoke rather than a puff puff type thing. I picked up a tiny little 20x20mm one, but never got round to fixing it up. If the fan was too fast, I was thinking of just chopping a wee bit off the fan blades to regulate the amount of smoke. Mart
  12. They turned up today. My word. Good grief. Gosh and wowzers! As sharp as a sharp thing that has been sharpened to something very sharp. You literally can’t feel them cut into the plastic, and with zero effort. And I mean zero. Well impressed. Mart
  13. If you’re going to get into scratchbuilding it’ll be worth your while getting some proppa styrene sheet. It’ll save you a lot of messing about trying to find recyclable materials in (a) the right material (b) the right thickness. Don’t know whereabouts in the smoke you are, but this place is worth a visit. 4D Model shop. It’s mainly used by architectural students, but has all sorts of raw materials and tools. Sheet styrene is very cheap and one of their big sheets will last you years! Mart
  14. Gosh! Well I’m well impressed by that. Mart
  15. Runs off 2 AA batteries. The transformer thingamajig makes a nasty high pitched noise if you hold it too close to your ear! Mart