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Learstang

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About Learstang

  • Birthday October 29

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    Texas, USA
  • Interests
    Writing, Aeroplane Modelling, 3D Art

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  1. Amazing. What was meant to show their accuracy, the original photograph, shows how misguided they are. Even that AMT-11 Grey-Blue is poorly done and much too light, both on the profiles and the 'accurately-restored' aircraft. And the AMT-12 Dark Grey on those profiles - I did not realise that the Soviets meant 'Dark Green' when they named the colour 'Dark Grey'. Silly Soviets... Regards, Jason
  2. I just had a look at your MiG-17, and that 'tan' colour is not bad, but a bit too yellowish. AMT-1/A-21M is a bit of a tricky colour, especially as it seemed to change in colour as it aged, at least with A-21M, becoming more yellow. I've used both Testors Model Master Israeli Armor Sand/Gray and Afrika Dunkelgrau '42 for this colour, but good luck finding these paints now. If you're familiar with Massimo Tessitori's excellent site on VVS aircraft, I would look on there to see some good renditions of the Soviet 'Light Brown' colour. Best Regards, Jason
  3. AMT-12 (not AMT-11) Dark Grey when newly painted was almost black, but quickly faded to a dark grey. For what it's worth I use Testors Model Master Gunship Gray for my AMT-12 (I believe the Pe-2 would have used the metal aircraft equivalent of AMT-12 - 'AMT-12 Dark Grey' was for composite or wooden aircraft; the paint colours were basically the same - the same goes for AMT-4 Green, AMT-7 Blue, and AMT-1 Light Brown). Dark olive doesn't sound quite right for the Soviet Green. 'Yellow-Grey' actually sounds about right for the 'Light Brown'. Although Graham is correct that the Soviet Light Brown did not have an orange tinge, the 'Light Brown' used on metal aircraft (A-21M, I believe it was designated), had a solvent or base that became yellow the older the paint was (it was transparent when new). I'll look for your Egyptian MiG-17 to see what that colour you used looks like. Best Regards, Jason
  4. You're welcome! Is that brown a dark, medium or light brown? Despite the name, the Soviet 'Light Brown' colour was really a tan colour, with perhaps just a bit of grey in it. The 'Dark Grey' should be something like an EDSG, but without any blue in it. The green should have an olive tint, but nowhere near as olive as US Olive Drab - I use Testors Model Master Interior Green for my Soviet Green. The blue was similar to RLM 65, although perhaps a bit lighter. The overall green colour over blue was used only early in the war, in 1941, and also post-war. Best Regards, Jason
  5. Now there are two kits I wish Airfix would issue new-mould versions of - the Pe-2 and Il-2 (and why not the Yak-9 whilst we're at it). I don't believe the Airfix Pe-2 kit will win any prizes for accuracy, but it is immeasurably more accurate than the 'Il-2', which is rubbish. Just looking at the parts on the sprue it does at least resemble a Pe-2. I can't tell from the photograph what Airfix would have you paint it, but if the Pe-2 is pre-late 1943, it should be painted in green/black over blue, and if post-late 1943, it should be dark grey, tan, and green over blue. Good luck! Best Regards, Jason
  6. Yes; I just saw that also in the e-mail they send me. Looks like I need to add another kit to my cart with Aviation Megastore! Best Regards, Jason
  7. Brilliant job on the Bucc! I hate to use this cliche, but I really did have to check the title to remember that this was 1/72nd scale, not 1/48th scale. Regards, Jason
  8. Yes, Neil, thank you! That does clarify things, and I was thinking of the sort of layers I get when I use my old 3-D printer (which uses FDM). I should have known that the equipment you use is much more sophisticated. Best Regards, Jason
  9. Hot diggety-dog! A Blackburnx2 in all three scales! All Praise Be to Nodens, Lord of the Outer Abyss! Now Neil, when you say the printed assembly is rather daunting, how much finishing shall be needed on the parts? I'm referring to removing the artefacts of 3-D printing, such as layering. Best Regards, Jason
  10. Brilliant work on that diorama (and the others)! In case you're taking suggestions, I think a RAF 100 Group Fortress should be next (if you have room for it!). Regards, Jason
  11. Unfortunately, that is often the case. I've had some luck looking on eBay for 'old' Sword kits. A quick search I just did on eBay pulled up four kits of the F3D-2 (Korean War), priced from 30USD to 38USD. I've had problems finding the FJ-3M Fury, however, which I would love to have. I feel your pain about the Twogar - another kit I want for my Vietnam War collection. Best Regards, Jason
  12. Brilliant job, and built to your usual very high standards, Libor! Regards, Jason
  13. Excellent job on the Zveroboiy! Regards, Jason
  14. Sanding, fitting, and more sanding. And guesswork. Sounds pretty much par for the course for a limited-run kit. I think I shall buy me two of these beasties and have at them. Thank you for sharing your experience and thoughts! Best Regards, Jason
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