This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Navy Bird

Gold Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Navy Bird last won the day on December 17 2016

Navy Bird had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

7,258 Excellent

About Navy Bird

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 29/03/55

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Rochester, NY USA
  • Interests
    Defeating conditions that end with "oma."

Recent Profile Visitors

5,993 profile views
  1. Thanks for posting that! This was on display at the Luftwaffe Museum Berlin-Gatow the last time I visited, and I thought it had to be a real wild ride. Cheers, Bill
  2. One last time before I leave for Florida. Decalcomania! All of the stickers are on except for the starboard fuselage roundel. Setting solutions were still drying when I took these photos, but I think she'll look quite sharp. All five tyres are touching the ground, thanks to the new Quickboost outriggers. Remember those PE lash-down rings that I had superglued to the Fujimi outriggers? I actually snapped those off and added them to the Quickboost resin parts. I expected several to go "zing" when I did that, but I got lucky instead and they all survived the trip. The stickers are a combination of Microscale, Fujimi, and Hasegawa. Unfortunately, Microscale did the pilot's name in black letters, when they should be white. I used the decal anyway, to honour the chap. Although you can't see in either of these pictures, there is a red X at the bottom of each intake. Even though the Sea Harriers were painted with a glossy EDSG at this stage, this model won't stay shiny like she is now. First, I'm a firm believer in "scale gloss." Models that are super shiny in 1:72 scale just look like toys to me. I think that's because we create glossy finishes with clear overcoats. This clear paint has an illusion of depth, and when that gets multiplied by scale, it looks unrealistic. That's my opinion anyway - most people disagree with me. This model will get a satin, or eggshell finish. I started working on the canopy - it is missing the rear shelf and detonator control box, so I started making one from card stock. That control box is tiny! Plus, it's going to need some fiddly things sticking out of it. Well, we'll figure out something. Luckily, the windscreen looks like it will fit nicely. You'll remember that the Fujimi canopy was one piece, while Hasegawa's was two. I'm using the windscreen from the Fujimi kit, and the sliding portion from the Hasegawa because I didn't want one to think I was favouring the other. By the way, the Fujimi canopy has to be just about the thinnest injection moulded canopy I've ever seen. At first glance, you might mistake it for vacuform. The Hasegawa part is thin too, but not like the Fujimi. Makes me wonder why they're not all like that... While on holiday, I may sign in on my phone and leave a comment or two somewhere, but that's it for this WIP until I return. See you next week! Cheers, Bill
  3. Thanks! We've been pretty lucky the last few years. Most of the big snow storms have gone up the Mid-Atlantic coast and missed us. My son, who lives outside Baltimore, has had more snow storms than we have had here in Rottenchester. We've probably had more total snowfall, but it's three inches here, three inches there with a melt in-between. Bare ground today, but it is chilly, 25 F or so. Next week is supposed to be 40s and 50s. Weird. Back in the 60s when I was but a wee lad, it would start snowing in mid-November and stop sometime in late April, and rarely did we have a January thaw. 24-36 inch snowfalls in one storm were not unusual. The banks along the roads were huge. Or maybe that was because I was so short then... Cheers, Bill
  4. That explains it - genetics! Thanks Adrian! I think it will end up as XZ454 from 800 Squadron in 1980. I know it's been done to death, but I really like the red trident on the tail with the sceptre and crossed swords. It just looks British. The instructions for the sticker sheet has the aircraft number 250 on the forward fuselage, below the cockpit. However, every single photo that I can find of this plane has the number just aft of the fuselage roundel on the fairing that leads to the cold nozzle. So that's how I'll do it - typical Microscale instructions, wrong again. But at least the stickers are still good, being 30 years old or more! This is how mobs start, old chap. Let's just leave it to PC to take care of him in his own way. Hopefully involving hedgehogs with pointy teeth! My wife and daughters have some kind of Disney gene and have to go every year (sometimes more!) So I broke down and bought a Disney time share with some money I got from cashing out an insurance policy I didn't need. Now when we go, we don't have to pay for a hotel room. So we'll be in Orlando, never venturing outside of the Disney force field. Although we will have to summon Uber to take us off-site to some Disney Outlet Store. It's never too early to buy Christmas gifts for 2020. Well...I haven't painted it back to EDSG yet. With the canopy open, it won't show too much of the deck. I really wish I knew what shade it should be! We leave for Florida first thing Monday morning. After I pack today, maybe I can get some more stickers on and post a picture. Cheers, Bill
  5. Absolutely exquisite, mate! Your weathering is always spot on. The new engine nacelles really make this kit - it just doesn't look right OOB. Cheers, Bill
  6. Hi mates, I'm off to Florida for the next week for a holiday, so I'm afraid there won't be any updates for a while. When I get back, I'll have a couple of days of free time before I get to enjoy another round of chemotherapy. Hopefully I'll have an update sometime before the chemo. Cheers, Bill
  7. Thanks, mates. What I was asking about was the fixed portion of the deck. Sounds (and looks) like I should go with EDSG for the fixed portion and DSG for the sliding portion. Cheers, Bill
  8. Thanks Col.! Yes, definitely - we want to see you tackle a Falklands Dogfight Double! What scale? So true. I just wish the UK magazines would print the photos a bit larger. Crap, I just painted the rear decking with Dark Admiralty Grey (I use Gunze Dark Sea Grey as a substitute). I guess I have to paint it back! OK, who was the chap at MOD or FAA or Hawker who decided it was a good idea to put the fuselage roundel on top of the intake blow-in doors? I seriously need to have a word with him! Cheers, Bill
  9. I have the Valom boxing of the Hampden #72033 and it did not include any hedgehog exhausts. I also bought the separate Valom conversion set #DSV01 for this kit, the one that has the torpedo, and it includes the hedgehogs and they are part of an injected moulded sprue. I haven't seen any resin exhausts, but I've not seen any of the other boxings from Valom. Cheers, Bill
  10. How did I miss this one? I love your work with the flat white plastic bits - you need to tell me when you start a build, as apparently I'm not capable of finding these threads by myself. The pit is looking fab, mate! Cheers, Bill
  11. How about the Curtiss XF15C? I think that would qualify as a prototype, as it never entered production. The Olimp resin kit is setting on top of the stack right under the workbench and it's always looking at me. Cheers, Bill
  12. If Hasegawa confused the length with and without the probe, they'd be off by 13 mm according to the drawings I have. So I think that's just an urban legend. I found this photo that compares Hasegawa (top), Fujimi (center), and ESCI (bottom) and you can see that the Hasegawa kit is short, but it ain't that short: By my measurements before I assembled the Fujimi fuselage, Hasegawa is short by 2-3 mm tops. I think the bigger difference is that the bottom of the nose turns up too much on the Hasegawa kit. That makes the radome diameter smaller than it should be. But I'm not the expert! Cheers, Bill EDIT: Oh, just to make sure I get this right - for this scheme, the cold nozzles should be EDSG, correct?
  13. I'll have an update soon - things are moving along! In the meantime, I've been fondling the Special Hobby Sea Harrier FA.2. As I mentioned before, this is obviously a derivative of the Hasegawa kit, the similarities are numerous. My first concern was the wing - would the Hasegawa FRS.1 wing (which includes the vortex generators) fit the SH fuselage? The answer is yes, it's a near perfect match. The only modification that is needed is to lengthen the slot in the fuselage for the wing tab. Or you could shorten the tab I suppose...but either way it fits nicely. A couple of easy mods to the FRS.1 wing, and one of the shortfalls of the SH kit is fixed. Many folks have complained that the front end of the SH FA.2 doesn't "look right." (Let;s face it, though, the front end of a real FA.2 doesn't exactly look right!) I compared the front fuselage pieces between Hasegawa and SH, and the SH part matches the outline of the Hasegawa part without its radome. The FA.2 radome is supplied as a two piece affair in the SH kit, and it attaches to the forward fuselage in the same place as the FRS.1 radome. Is that the way it was done in real life? There were no other extensions or modifications to the shape/size of the forward fuselage? I have the Pavla resin FA.2 nose designed for the Airfix kit, but it is too large in diameter to work with the SH kit. The Pavla radome has a circular cross-section where it attaches to the fuselage; the SH is slightly oval with the vertical dimension being about 0.5 mm larger. Who's right? Probably doesn't make much difference, 0.5 mm ain't much. SH correctly has the mid-fuselage extension. What's weird is the the plastic is a different thickness in this area, so if you hold it up to the light you see a distinct dark band. I'm not going to speculate what that means. Cheers, Bill